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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 27
Total Points: 11,280

408 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 7203 | Routes 309 | Areas 81 | Approach Trails | Photos 1395 | Page Improvements | Comments 1757 | Posts 1836 | Stars 1261 | Ratings 564
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (a) Northeast Buttress > Y Crack Buttress > Green Rosetta (5.11c)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 19, 2017

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Comments: I thought this was pretty good, tough start but looks like good pro, I TR'd it, which is a tough set up because the route hangs far right near the top. We made an anchor about 6ft climbers right of the rap bolts for Y crack. From the belay looks like a horrible swing would occur but must be an illusion because it was just a straight hang. Last 15ft would have been a bad swing but the climbing is easier.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... > Gill's Buttress > Gill's Nose (5.11c)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 18, 2017

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Comments: Robb, whereabouts was the foot?


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress > Spooky Spike (5.9)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 14, 2017

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Comments: I recently tried the "direct" start to this below Flake Out. Got in one ok purple C3 but it was barely useful as it was only about 5 feet above the starting ledge, next there was an old piton that didn't look great, plus some grainy climbing in between, so I bailed. Anyone do this pitch lately?


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (f) West Face Bulge Routes > Upper Bulge Routes > The Flakes (5.11)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 7, 2017

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Comments: I did the Stairway to Heaven 10a corner for P2, short but awesome corner, no need for a #4 C4 bit would feel good at the very top.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (d) Northwest Recess > Magical Mystery Tour (5.11c R)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 7, 2017

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Comments: I sandbagged a young gun into leading the Crux pitch for me, pretty fun! Last good piece was a purple C3 before the seam really pinched tight, no pins. Took the 11a straight over the small roof.

Pitch one was junk, climb P1 of Edge hogs or Whodunit, clip the first bolt of Edgehogs and then step down and traverse straight left to the belay for P2 of MMT.

After P2 it all gets kinda wonky, maybe this is best as a small variation to Edgehogs.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (d) Northwest Recess > The Consolation (5.9)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 1, 2017

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Comments: HOLY GOD! There's some nuclear bomb death blocks as you top out the main corner system at the start of the direct finish. Do NOT even go near these things. Climb around them left for the direct finish or avoid completely by going right.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (v) North Face > Obscured by Time (5.10a R)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 1, 2017

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Comments: I couldn't tell if there was any pro on P2 in the short flake so I traversed way right and up a dike to place a small piece in a upward facing crack, almost directly below the bolt on Harms Way. I then traversed back towards the belay and down and started up towards the small flake from about 10ft right of the belay. Had I known about the ok piece in the flake I probably would have gone for it but a fall onto the belay could be extremely hazardous as there's one bolt with a very suspect ... more >>


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (t) Eagle Pinnacle > Rhino Skin (5.10b/c)
By: Tradiban When: Jul 30, 2017

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Comments: Kinda fun I guess. Worth a go.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (t) Eagle Pinnacle > Spoodge (5.10d)
By: Tradiban When: Jul 30, 2017

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Comments: I TR'd this, the crux at the pin is very tricky with balance on slopers, I don't think I would want to lead it.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (t) Eagle Pinnacle > Jizz (5.10b)
By: Tradiban When: Jul 30, 2017

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Comments: Fun moves through the bolted section. I brought a small cam to protect the move into the alcove at the top.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (g) West Face > West Face - Right Side > ... > Photo
By: Tradiban When: Jul 29, 2017

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Comments: I've never heard of that being a direct start. But why the hell can't it be? Post it!


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 03 - West of the... > White Wall > Exit Blues (5.11c) > Photo
By: Tradiban When: Jul 18, 2017

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Comments: Nobody is scrubbing their ticks, it's the humidity. There's quite a few climbs that are always chalked up but for the most part everything disappears quickly.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 03 - West of the... > White Wall > Exit Blues (5.11c) > Photo
By: Tradiban When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: I just noticed your rhyme, excellent creativity, unfortunately it does not improve the quality of the ascent.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 03 - West of the... > White Wall > Exit Blues (5.11c) > Photo
By: Tradiban When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: Good to hear but I still think the presence of the TR anchor allowed you a possible escape from full commitment and therefore diminishes this ascent to a mere pink point.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 03 - West of the... > White Wall > Exit Blues (5.11c) > Photo
By: Tradiban When: Jul 15, 2017

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Comments: You didn't clip that TR anchor before the top out, did you?!!?


Location: Wisconsin > Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) > Above Anthrax > Who is Bernd Arnold? (5.8) > Photo
By: Tradiban When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: I'm surprised that these bolts are getting replaced, were they bad?


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > The Others > The Indian Buttress Formati... > Photo
By: Tradiban When: Jul 13, 2017

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Comments: Which route is which color?


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress > Johnny Quest (5.10b) > Photo
By: Tradiban When: Jul 2, 2017

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Comments: Hmmm...that's a good thought. I also solo with a harness and occasionally use two personals to build a moveable anchor through some sketchy parts. Does this ruin the act of soloing?!?! I'm saving this for a forum post but if you want to take the reigns please do so :)


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (d) Northwest Recess > The Consolation (5.9)
By: Tradiban When: Jun 28, 2017

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Comments: I wouldn't worry about being able to climb the route but I would worry for the rest of eternity that there's loose rock on the upper pitches of this wall and some down below too. Don't pull too hard and for god sakes never fall.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > Devil's Lake Bouldering > South Bluff Bouldering > The Reserve > ... > Starfish (V6)
By: Tradiban When: Jun 27, 2017

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Comments: However, if you aren't local there's no way you climbed this problem. Only locals know how to find "The Reserve". Any FIBS that stumbled on to it have been taken care of, in a bad way.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > Devil's Lake Bouldering > South Bluff Bouldering > The Reserve > ... > Starfish (V6)
By: Tradiban When: Jun 27, 2017

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Comments: Alex. I'm serious. According to local tradition you sent a new route. For example see here: mountainproject.com/v/10774176...


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > Devil's Lake Bouldering > South Bluff Bouldering > The Reserve > ... > Starfish (V6)
By: Tradiban When: Jun 26, 2017

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Comments: Congratulations Alex! Any slight variation of a problem at DL is considered a new problem and an FA! Best part is, you get to name it, may I suggest "Chocolate Starfish"?


Location: Wisconsin > Governor Dodge State Park > Box Canyon Boulders > Cannon Boulder > The Monster In The Mirror (V11)
By: Tradiban When: Jun 26, 2017

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Comments: I love how boulderers will talk a ton of shit about a problem and the FA and then try to make amends by saying "but sick send bro!".


Location: Wisconsin > Governor Dodge State Park > Group Camp B > Backbone Ridge > West Side- Backbone Ridge > ... > Photo
By: Tradiban When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: Classic Wisco spot!


Location: Wisconsin > The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... > Rusty Ring Wall > THE FINAL STRAW (5.12b)
By: Tradiban When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: Damnit, somebody capitalize this name!!!! And maybe a better description??????


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