Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community


Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Tradoholic

Point Rank: # 22
Total Points: 12,616
Last Year: 239
Last 30 Days: 10
372 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 6118 | Routes 284 | Areas 80 | Photos 1387 | Page Improvements | Comments 1641 | Posts 975 | Stars 1186 | Ratings 565
Page 1 of 66.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Modern climbers don't contemplate anything, figgin kids thse days...


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (e) South Face : Disco Jesus (5.11b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: P1 doesn't seem 10c, pretty damn easy, maybe I'm missing something? Anyway it's trivial compared to the rest I guess. I couldn't do it clean but on the start of P2 I was just left of the belay and found a 3 finger dime edge that's very hidden in white rock, took me a few tries to even see it, I was able to crimp friggin hard and bring my left foot up to a nice nub, there's anot... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : New Generation (5.11c)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The last pitch is a fun 10a easily accessible from the right side.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Nah, I don't give a fuck, I didn't even climb it ;)


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 21, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route description was edited without my permission!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (p) Godzilla Face : Baby Cobra (5.11b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Looks like there may have been a 3rd pin to protect the start, none currently. Pretty nasty fall if you pop out before clipping the high pins. I opted not to get fucked up and climbed something else.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (p) Godzilla Face : Mecca Godzilla (5.11a A1)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I did the final pitch as a direct finish to MR. Decent 10+ slab climbing with a fun mantle to start.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (o) Right of the Escalator : Free Lance (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Ok climbing for the first three bolts. Good holds will push you right to an unprotectable flaring crack (5.9) at bolt three, staying on route goes straight up to the 4th bolt but that felt pretty contrived to do so.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (n) Rebolting Face : Rebolting Development (5.11a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: No harder than 10c if you take the crux bypass. I found the R to the 3rd bolt not too bad, eases up just in time. Hardest move was over the 1st bolt on P2, I had to dead point to a pocket. The crux on P2 is described at "scary" but also "PG" in the new guidebook (shrugs).

Overall great climbing on good edges and cool pockets the whole way.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.3 - Hole-In-The-Wall : Grand Finale (5.13b V8)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I see you are still following in my footsteps ;)


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Messenger Boulder : All Along The Messenger Sho... (V1 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, climbed it.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : The Others : Devils Staircase : The Dark Angel Buttress : The Dark Angel (5.10a/b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Sorry, I didn't like this one much. However, it did have a nice back country feel.
We did it in 3 pitches starting from the bottom of the chute. So the obvious splitter crack/flake was on P2. Thought that was pretty easy, maybe 5.8 at most. The final P3 overhang jam crack was tough though, solid 10a.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : The Others : The Indian Buttress Formati... : Indian Buttress (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Did this in two pitches. Fun tips section on P2. Bolted anchors are available but I didn't feel that they were needed.

We rapped twice down the gulley to the climbers right. There's a tree for rap 1 but with a 70m we had to downclimb a little to reach a bolted rap station for rap 2. There's another bolted rap station below that but you can easily down climb to the climbers left to the ground.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (q) Sunkist Face : Question of Balance (5.10c R)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A fall from the crux would put you on the ground unless you climb further up the crack place a piece high, then downclimb back to the right angle ramp up to the bolt. Alternatively just climb up the left diagonal crack then take a undercling crack to join the route above the bolt. 10a this way and much better protected.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (r) Sideshow Slab : Ours (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Shares first two bolt with Showstopper, then goes slightly left to a ledge with two bolt anchor. 2 more bolts on crystal crimps to a final anchor shared with Showstopper. It would be hatd to get off route I think.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (r) Sideshow Slab : Showstopper (5.10a PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A great line on great rock. In the G+V guide the start is listed at 10b R, no way its more than 5.9, the new G guide has it at 5.9. Same start as Ours.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (r) Sideshow Slab : Sideshow (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is the first route located right of Hot Buttered Rump. The G+V book shows this staying right of a right facing dihedral on the second half, that would be pretty contrived. Directly above the 2nd bolt I went stright up into the easy dihedral. Rap anchors are located on the left, exiting the dihedral before it peters out. A 70m will get you to a ledge where you can walk off to the right.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (v) North Face : Obscured by Clouds (5.10d R)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Soft 10d. I got on some perfect white crimps above the roof and just stood up, it's a little run from there to the next bolt. For P2 some small nuts are good for the flake, then I went up and slightly left to clip the last bolt of Shine On. Seemed like the most likely line that way but I'm sure there was no bolt on the FA.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Iron Cross (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: One pin on P1, it's good, I whipped on it. I also got a solid #000 C3 just above the pin. Technical is right!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Left Side : Clockwork Orange (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Short but fun moves on the arete. Bolt anchor on top has some gnar tat, bring some chains if you got some to add or some new tat.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Chris, "Winsonsinites" are a wiley bunch and actively shun outsiders and especially anyone from Colorado. I would say all the climbers are "solid" but only in the sense that they can take a punch and hold their liquor. Best to go alone, armed with free beer, and just start tieing into other parties top ropes or walking up and flashing all the low-ball boulder problems over their pads. Enjoy!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : Torque Wrench (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for joining the discussion Murf, allow me to clarify my statement. I think it would be cool to link Torque Wrench directly to the upper face of Mechanics Route. As I understand it TR simply worked into MR lower down into the easy crack but there's a nice sliver of face that is good climbing. However that face would be very "x" rated and adding a bolt might be worth it. AND it's not a retro bolt because that face isn&@PO... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : The Frigate : Code of the Sea (5.12a)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The topo line is slightly off in Jay's book. His line comes in from the left but I think it's more straight up.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : Torque Wrench (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Sorry, you are right Bob no bolt on mechanics. Fun climbing through that entire section from Torque Wrench to M but very run out like a solo. The bolt hole is still there on M, could use a nice patch someday.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Flakes (5.11)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: P1 of this is a little tough and hard to protect, make sure you get a good small nut before getting into the thin crack. P3 has that hard boulder problem but it right on top of a bolt.


Page 1 of 66.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>