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Member Since: Apr 27, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 6,311
Total Points: 90

32 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has climberz been climbing?


All 185 | Routes 1 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 27 | Posts 123 | Stars 16 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - N Face > Northwest Corner (5.11-)
By: climberz When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: I'm with Bob. Only lead this once. Whipped onto the pin. Now the pins are gone, bummer.
Just heard a story of someone whipping, ripping the gear from the slippery flared pinscar, and falling past the belay... yikes...40 footer? thanks.
Let's put the pins back in!

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Vampire Rock > Chupacabra (5.10+)
By: climberz When: Jun 3, 2017

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Comments: Nice pitch.

Kinda exciting from the new sport climb anchor to the crux roof. The crack is grainy and exfoliating with a large flake that is not very solid. Once to the crux roof, the gear becomes great. Good call on bringing extra big fingers gear.

There was no way I was downclimbing to the good, bad, and jacked anchor. I left a bomber #9 stopper and biner and lowered to that anchor. It would be nice if it stayed there for an easy descent. I assume an anchor is out of the question because of t... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... > The Dispensary (5.10a)
By: climberz When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: There is a new 2 bolt anchor on this climb about 10' down and right of original tree anchor. UNFORTUNATELY this ledge is covered in poison ivy. Be careful. If you are sensitive to poison ivy, you could likely use the tree anchor and avoid the poison ivy.

Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > East Stronghold > Rockfellow Group > ... > Be All, End All (5.11+)
By: climberz When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: Thank for the responses.
Have you guys ever broke a bolt? This really took me buy surprise. The metolious hanger is usually a happy sight.
Geir, yes that is the bolt in question. One of the two anchor bolts had the same extremely rusty look to it. It is equipped with a metolious rap hanger. Luckily (and thanks to the person who put the other bolt in) the upper bolt in the anchor is new with no visible corrosion. Thanks to the tucson locals for doing such a good job of keeping up your crags... more >>

Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > East Stronghold > Rockfellow Group > ... > Be All, End All (5.11+)
By: climberz When: Jan 1, 2015

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Comments: Broken bolt!!!!!!!!!!

The first bolt of pitch 2 broke yesterday. This bolt was about 2' above the first pitch anchor. The bolt seems like it was used mostly to avoid a factor 2 fall onto the anchor. The climbing to the next bolt is not so difficult, so the route is still doable.

The leader hung on the bolt to help in the transition to leave the anchor. About four bolts up the leader fell on a new bolt at the crux. The rope straightening out broke the bolt that he had hung on moments... more >>

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Staunton State Park
By: climberz When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: An opinion on the closing time at Staunton:

A misdemeanor for being out of the park late? This seems like an extremely aggressive solution to a problem. I don't want to lose my job or spoil the possibility of getting a job for being late getting back from a climbing area. Climbing takes time, and being late is an extremely common scenario.

Putting a time limit on doing something dangerous is a terrible idea. Getting down safely should be the priority of climbing parties. A punishment for be... more >>

Location: Colorado > South Platte > West Creek > Thunder Ridge > The Post Office > Powder Monkey (5.11a/b)
By: climberz When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: A fixed nut is stuck where the crux gear goes. The WIRE is BROKEN. Bring a hammer to get this piece of junk out. It is a bit of a runout through the crux, and the broken wire is in the way of getting the best piece in at the crux. I was able to get a #3 BD nut but could have gotten a larger one with a bigger wire (guess the small wires do break) if the broken one is removed.

Location: Wyoming > Devil's Tower > South Face Lower Buttress > Little Creatures (5.9)
By: climberz When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: Long pitch, I ran out of runners with 80' to go. Don't forget some small wires/rps. Good climbing, often big holds and lots of stances. Some lose rock. Anchor is 2 bolts reduced down to one smash link (never understood this practice, why have 2 bolts with only one link?) We left 2 junky biners, maybe they will be there for you or you may choose to leaves some.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... > The Dispensary (5.10a)
By: climberz When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Good climb.

The tree at the base of the climb has a large block leaning against it. This scared me, because I could not find any gear for the 1st 15 ft of climbing when you are already 40 feet up the ramp. I really wanted to sling the tree. I ended up doing this and had my belayer move toward a cave thinking that if I did fall and weighted the tree, the boulder might dislodge and crush my belayer, me, and possibily someone at the bottom of the hill. After building a nest 6 feet below the 1s... more >>

Location: Wyoming > Wind River Range > Cirque of the Towers > Warbonnet Peak > Black Elk (5.11a)
By: climberz When: Aug 3, 2011

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Comments: anyone have an opinion on new #4 camlot vs. old. "widefists" makes me think the new #4 might be tipped out, sure is light though.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Sobo > Bo Diddley (5.11c R)
By: climberz When: Jan 19, 2010

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Comments: I put in a pink tricam as my first piece in the seam. A red would also go in and possibly be better. For me this made the pitch safe enough. Also got in a nest of RPs, but for me the tricam was by far the best of the bunch. If this gear blew, you would be lucky not to deck.

Awesome climbing!

Location: Colorado > Lyons > St. Vrain Canyons > South Fork of St. Vrain Can... > The Coliseum > ... > Photo
By: climberz When: Oct 22, 2009

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Comments: Are you heel hooking that giant pile of pack rat turds?

Location: The People of Mountain Proj... > sibylle Hechtel > Interesting photos > Photo
By: climberz When: Jul 10, 2009

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Comments: where is that? its so amazing that it looks fake.

Location: Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Road > Cactus Cliff > Lats Don't Have Feelings (5.11d)
By: climberz When: Apr 16, 2009

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Comments: A heads up.... The 3rd bolt and the 5th bolt are pretty bad, particularly the 3rd. From below, you can see a cm or so of the bolt sleeve. If the 3rd pulls (seems like it will sometime soon), decking will happen. If someone has the expertise and equipment, I would be happy to help. Too good a climb to have such shoddy gear on.
Looks like a same hole replacement will not work. The hole is eroded and flared on the bottom side.

Location: The People of Mountain Proj... > Jared O'Brien > 'Adventures of The Man In W... > Photo
By: climberz When: Feb 9, 2009

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Comments: did he send? musta been difficult with those big paws.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part E - top t... > Prince of Darkness (5.11a)
By: climberz When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: The crux hold is broken. The climb is a bit harder now. Don't know how much harder (I could not do it), maybe 11c-11d? Too bad, the old hold was one of the best crimpers in memory.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Black Widow Slab > Wired (5.10a PG13)
By: climberz When: Jul 5, 2008

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Comments: It took tons of work to make this climb somewhat safe. Some very funky looking, difficult to obtain gear. 10- climbing, 11 gear. some fun moves.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Wine and Roses (5.11-)
By: climberz When: Jun 27, 2008

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Comments: Great climb. The rock and gear are not so good for the first 20 feet, but after the start the climbing and gear are great. Nice and steep. Clipping the first two bolts on the sport climb to the right is a safer alternative, but would change the routes character. 10+/11-

Location: The People of Mountain Proj... > T Roper > various > Photo
By: climberz When: Jun 8, 2008

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Comments: I was i busted a breakdance move....THE WORM.

Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > Tam O'Shanter
By: climberz When: Feb 24, 2008

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Comments: The rock is Quartzite, a metamorphosed sandstone. The space between the sand grains is filled with silica cement and when the rock is broken it will break through the sand grains or pebbles unlike sandstone which breaks around the grains and pebbles. It is much harder than granite. It is almost horizontally layered and features occasional horizontal cracks and pockets. Famous quartzite areas are the Gunks, Ny. and Arapiles, Australia. Other North American areas are Seneca, Wv., Moores Wal... more >>

Location: Tennessee > The Tennessee Wall > T-Wall East > No More Tiers (5.11a) > Photo
By: climberz When: Jan 13, 2008

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Comments: I did what Tavis said and removed a tree and some rope. great climb. The colors are exagerated, but the orange coating on the rock really sticks out in my memory.

Location: Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Road > Cactus Cliff > Slicer (5.10b)
By: climberz When: Jan 7, 2008

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Comments: If the name didn't give it away, this is very sharp.

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Battle of the Bulge Buttres... > Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in de... (5.9)
By: climberz When: Sep 19, 2007

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Comments: One of the anchor bolts was hanging partway out of the hole spring 07'. This climb sucks anyway. Watched a girl almost deck from the top of this pile. She was placing a piece in the upper crack when she fell, bounced off the ledge and sailed head-first toward the ground to be stopped 5' above the ground and slammed face-first into the corner. The piece that caught her was a green camalot. It broke out a couple of inches of rock and had only two lobes left in the crack. Yikes!

Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Three Brothers Area > Lower Brother > Maple Jam (5.10a)
By: climberz When: Aug 3, 2007

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Comments: Good description. The belay is non-existent. My girlfriend belayed in the squeeze chimmney with the only gear: her. I would have downclimbed, but it was dangerously loose, so instead I continued up on the hold-less dirt filled groove with deathfall potential. Finally a piece went in--# 4 Camalot,3.5 Camalot/4.0 Friend. Then the climb is ok.

I would not recommend this to anyone, unless they have a bolt kit to make this slightly safe.

Location: California > High Sierra > 08 - Bishop Pass and Evolut... > Mt. Goode > North Buttress (5.9)
By: climberz When: Jul 30, 2007

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Comments: Had a hard time finding the official start. The one we did felt 5.10. It was harder than any other pitch on the climb. Great sand descent. Very fun running down little sand chutes. The easiest descent I've done in the Sierras. Goode route to do in a day.

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