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Member Since: May 26, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has cliffmama been climbing?










Contributions


All 100 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 30 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 35 | Posts 23 | Stars 10 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : s. The Golden Wall : The Golden Dream (5.9+)
By: cliffmama When: 2 hours ago

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Comments: A great G-rated lead, but you can also scramble up the trail to the right of the climb to get to the top where there are 2 bolts for use as an anchor. But you'll have to bring your own slings/lockers to set up an extended top rope anchor, as there are no chains.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Andrew (5.4 PG13) : Photo
By: cliffmama When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: Much easier to not go up at this point like in the photo. Stay low, traverse right past the protruding bright white block with a wide ledge for the feet. Then move up.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : AFPA Rock : Andromeda Strain (5.7)
By: cliffmama When: Mar 31, 2017

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Comments: Climbed here the morning of 3/19/2017, and there was a big rattlesnake at the base of the climb. It slithered into the bushes to the left after we arrived but was clearly agitated & rattling a lot. We did another climb first, and went back about an hour later and did the climb. But the snake was still around, a bit further away in the boulders & bushes to the left. Be aware that he may live around there.


Location: Texas : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : News Wall : Pro Sweat (5.9)
By: cliffmama When: Mar 3, 2017

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Comments: After doing Pro Sweat, was able to traverse right and set up TR on the 5.9 to the right of it, which felt a little trickier.


Location: Texas : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Throne Rock Area : Orient Express (5.9)
By: cliffmama When: Mar 3, 2017

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Comments: Cheated. We had a telescoping stick clip and from the left side, you can clip the 3rd bolt so my lead wasn't so scary. We were afraid the rap from the far back bolt anchors would put us in the huge crevice, but the ropes managed to stay over the route. It's a fine route though, and worth doing.


Location: Texas : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Boston (5.7)
By: cliffmama When: Mar 3, 2017

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Comments: Climbed today. Only 1 bolt to flap. One bolt on flap, to the right of the v-notch & sketchy flakes. We stayed to the right of the sketchy left facing flake, as there was lots of chalk on fun steep moves over the flap. Rest of P1 was sport bolted. Our 70m rope barely made it to the ground (actually just made it to the top of the flake leaning against the bottom) with rope stretch from the P1 anchors. If you try this, don't forget to knot your ends and make sure your ends are e... more >>


Location: California : High Desert : New Jack City
By: cliffmama When: Jan 30, 2017

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Comments: Anyone know the origin of the name New Jack City? Anything to do with the movie?


Location: North America : Cuba : Mogote del Valle : Ensenada de Raúl : Punta Lider
By: cliffmama When: Jan 15, 2017

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Comments: There's a sweet bolted line that's not in the guidebook, further right from the 3 documented routes on Punta Lider. It's clean, straight and easy, perhaps a 4 (or 5.5 if Gunks ratings).


Location: North America : Cuba
By: cliffmama When: Dec 10, 2016

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Comments: Can anyone recommend international travel medical insurance that will work in Cuba but also covers rock climbing? I have been trying to find insurance, but either they aren't available for residents of New York (which I am), or the fine print excludes coverage for injuries from rock climbing, or the one plan I found that allowed rock climbing was only for people under 50 years old (which I am not).


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Lost and Found (5.7)
By: cliffmama When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: Just climbed this one, quite enjoyable. I didn't find the lower section runout and was able to place 3 pieces before the small roof. Used lots of small to medium sized cams and no nuts (all under .75 camelot) for the whole pitch. Of course, YMMV. Nice to finish on P2 of The Last Will Be First.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Outsiders (5.8)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 16, 2016

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Comments: Loved this climb. Lots of varied moves, real jams, liebacking, corner moves, big step over an exposed gap, it has lots of fun moves and is well protected.

Our first pitch ended in the small corner on the exposed right edge of the giant pillar. Stepping over the gap into that corner is one of the funnest moves on the climb and isn't to be missed! Felt like a 5.7, but with enough challenging moves to be thoughtful and interesting.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Seniors in Motion (5.9)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 16, 2016

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Comments: Just had to add that I was also there on the first ascent, likely my only chance to ever get in a Gunks guidebook on a 1st ascent, and Dick forgot to add my name to the FA party. Sigh.

It's here now! -- admin


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiack Area : Pywiak Dome : Zee Tree (5.7)
By: cliffmama When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: We couldn't found the start of the climb. Part of the reason was because the base still was covered in now. But the supertopo guidebook shows a tree about halfway up in the topo. There is a prominent tree halfway up and the climb is called "Zee Tree", so we went over there to look for the start of the climb and never found it. After some fun wandering around on low angle slab for a while looking for bolts, we gave up. On the way back to the car, ... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Seven (5.8)
By: cliffmama When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: As a Gunks climber who sucks at vertical cracks, I found both pitches to be delightful, with great moves and good gear. The 5.8 face crux was hardly a crux for someone used to face climbing. Absolutely loved it!
We finished off with the final pitches of After Six to the top. Very enjoyable outing!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Six (5.7)
By: cliffmama When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: If it's your first time on the Manure Pile, get the beta on the descent. The book we had was vague, and someone else on the climb told us to descend at a particular dead tree, and pointed to it. Turned out to be a "death chute" that dropped off. Luckily we weren't the only ones to make that mistake and found a tree with slings on it that could bring us safely down the the well-traveled descent trail in the gully. Found the oth... more >>


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : The Line (5.9)
By: cliffmama When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Question: I'm a Gunks climber, so I suck at crack climbing. Would you give this a G rating for gear? Are there decent features on the face to use as well for most of the climb? From the pics, it looks like there are dikes and other features for feet. Looking forward to getting out there on that fine, fine rock!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Wop Stop (5.6 PG13)
By: cliffmama When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: We never did it before, so for the first pitch, 150 feet of 5.6 G sounded good on a busy weekend, right? Don't bother. My partner thought the start felt like 5.7 PG-13. Then the upper section had a thick coating of old lichen powder on it, you couldn't move without getting crap in your eyes. Then the GT ledge where he belayed from was literally coated in white vulture crap. Luckily it was dried vulture crap, but totally covered.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Gorilla My Dreams (5.7)
By: cliffmama When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: Didn't remember the directions and ended up on P2 of Gaston because we went left instead of right at the rhododendron. It was really easy 5.5, which means if you're not a 5.7 climber, if you do P2 of Gaston you get a 5.6, 5.5, 5.5 link up. Nice climbing on P1 & P3. Some of the rocks in the corner of P2 looked pretty loose, wasn't sure about placing any gear behind them. But after the bush I went the wrong way anyway...


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Erect Direction (5.10c)
By: cliffmama When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: I don't climb hard enough for P2, but that first pitch of Erect Direction is a wonderful quality 5.8 G, and makes for a more interesting and fantastic link-up with CCK.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Trusty Rifle (5.7)
By: cliffmama When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: I started from the Bloody Bush ledge, and kept wondering why this felt way too easy to be a 5.7. I think I ended up a little too far left and was probably on the post-traverse part of Rusty Trifle. Oops.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Wolf and the Swine (5.9 R)
By: cliffmama When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: This can be top roped by leading the easier climbs to the right (not in Mountain Project). We went up Antsy Oh, a forgettable 5.5 which leads to the tree at the top of Wolf & the Swine. Found a manky old sling around a tree for a rap anchor. We added a new sling to it.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Loose Goose (5.6)
By: cliffmama When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Started on Loose Goose, switched to the 5.8 crack climb, then finished on last pitch of Loose Goose. It's a fantastic line. All well protected and fun climbing.
Warning: At the "almost top", we saw a cable around a tree rap anchor to the right. A short walk along the ledge took us to the anchor. and with a single 70m rope, it didn't quite make it to the next rap tree anchor. We could put our feet down to a block above the right side of the ledge, then had to do a short downclimb to the ledge (a... more >>


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : Lower Slabs
By: cliffmama When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: The guidebook and description are confusing. While hiking up to observation deck, look for boulder and small unmarked trail that veers off to the right. This will take you directly to the Scuttle area.

Rock Climbing Photo: The trail to the Lower Slabs is off to the right.
The trail to the Lower Slabs is off to the right.



Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : Lower Slabs : Seldom Seen (5.7 R)
By: cliffmama When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: We did some variations on top rope that made for interesting harder ascents. At the bottom, climb the thin face just to the right of the crack, group consensus 5.11a. Near the top, climb the face to the left of the route, group consensus 5.10a. YMMV.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : The Blackout (5.9-)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Today the bolt on the last pitch of The Blackout was replaced with a new, safer one, by Christian Fracchia of the Gunks Climbers Coalition.



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