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Rock Climbing Photo: gotta love the creek


Member Since: Sep 7, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact claramie

Point Rank: # 486
Total Points: 1,520
Last Year: 64
Last 30 Days: 17
49 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has claramie been climbing?










Contributions


All 1765 | Routes 56 | Areas 9 | Photos 96 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 339 | Posts 107 | Stars 1141 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Jet Stream (5.12-)
By: claramie When: Nov 27, 2016

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Comments: Fun route. The crack is steeper than it looks, but it's short, and the gear is great.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Desert Solitaire (5.11- C1)
By: claramie When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Really fun route with some subpar rock that is sandy/soft in spots. Agreed that a big fall could pull seemingly solid pieces if they are shallow. We thought 5.11 seemed accurate for the aid section, and besides the thin gear, there is plenty of gear right below that.

70m. I agree with other rack comments about triple 0.75, 3-4x #2 (with one of them a #3 Friend if possible) and taking the #4. For the pitch after the crux, keep 2x 0.75 for the last 30 feet. The last 5.9 pitch ha... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Crack of Desperation (5.10a)
By: claramie When: Oct 9, 2016

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Comments: Climbed this route again years after the first time. The rock is quite a bit worse than I remember. I recommend a #4 for the roof so you can place it deeper in the ear where it's less of a flake. You could also take another large cam to place lower on the pitch where the rock is crap instead of searching for the couple of ok places deeper in the crack.

Now that I'm done bashing the route, the roof move is fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Simian's Way (5.11a)
By: claramie When: Oct 8, 2016

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Comments: P1 now has awesome bolted anchors with rings, if you're just gonna do P1. Kevin, I believe the start is direct. We found some edges, huecos, and flakes, and it was cruiser.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Piz Badille : ... : Reusable Love Bag (5.10a)
By: claramie When: Sep 29, 2016

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Comments: If you climb to the top, you probably don't want to go to the P3 single bolt anchor. While climbing P3, trend left instead of going through the steeper part of the dihedral roof (bad rock). You might not see the kinfeblade mentioned in the previous post until you are at it. After that, find your way up easier ground to the summit. There were occasional 1 bolt anchors here and there. Ends up being about 5-6 pitches in total.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Bird Rock : East Side : Quackmore Duck (5.10b)
By: claramie When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Short but climbs even better than it looks. Also steeper than it looks.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Turkey Foot Crack (5.10a)
By: claramie When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Excellent route to a questionable rap anchor. I also vote to put a nice camo bolt anchor atop this route to save a life or two at some point in the future, if the FAs allow.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Old Rappel Route (5.10d)
By: claramie When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: Good Evans was crowded, so we went this way, taking the Cary Granite p2 up the dihedrals & through the undercling roof. I then went straight left on the ledge (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) and got on top of the somewhat precarious looking flake to a bolt anchor. Then it's one more long pitch (kinda crappy) up the rap route to the anchors.

We had a rack for Good Evans, and that was fine for this route.

Overall, not really recommended as your planned route but a decent bail option.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+) : Photo
By: claramie When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: Great beta photo of the route. One comment, the bottom rappel (from p2 anchor) is more like 130'. We rapped with a 70m and only had to downclimb 8' or less to reach the ground.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: claramie When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route! A real alpine classic with lots of great climbing throughout. For rack, we felt that a set of nuts, a single blue Alien, and doubles of green Alien to #3 Camalot is plenty. We placed a couple of small nuts but no RPs. Double ropes aren't necessary.

Rapping the route (which actually uses an anchor or two from the neighboring route) was easy with a single 70m. Just keep rapping pretty much straight down on bolted stations with chains & rings. The final rap left us with an 8' ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Failure to Communicate (5.10-)
By: claramie When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: The anchors were fine when we climbed this over the weekend.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Hot Licks (5.9)
By: claramie When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: It's possible to get to the top of the P2 ledge from the ground with a single 60m rope. The P2 anchor takes finger-sized gear and nuts. We had doubles to #3, a #4, and a #6. I think a second #4 would have been nice for the first pitch, but you can run it out instead.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Collision Course (5.11)
By: claramie When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: Getting up the initial wide crack is protectable with #4 camalot and smaller. Agreed that having a #6 for the last 20 feet is very much appreciated.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Campanile Esloveno
By: claramie When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: Agreed that this is the best formation in Frey that we climbed. Awesome rock quality and very cool features, especially on Imaginate. The hike from the refugio is kinda long (2-3 hours for most) but nowhere near as bad as it looks since the uphill sections are at different parts. The path crosses so much water that you can keep refilling every 20 minutes as you hike vs carrying all of that extra water weight. We hiked there and back on consecutive days and it wasn't so bad. Also, there are nice ... more >>


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Campanile Esloveno : Imagínate (5.10)
By: claramie When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: Amazing route doesn't even say enough! Really spectacular and one of the most interesting things I've ever climbed. I'd agree that it's well graded at 5.10 but it's runout in spots so you might not want to be leading at your limit on this one.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Campanile Esloveno : Fonrouge-Bertoncelj (5.10b/c)
By: claramie When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: Excellent climb on great rock! One refrigerator block to tiptoe around but it seems rather solid. As for the crux slab, you can get a nest before the runout to the first bolt (which is easier climbing) and then make you way to the bolt out right (don't follow the aid line up and left).

If you have a 70m or more you can rap down imaginate, which is probably the best option since it has good ring anchors the whole way down.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Aguja Frey : Diedro de Jim (5) (5.8)
By: claramie When: Dec 27, 2014

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Comments: Classic climbing! I would call both pitches 5.9 though. I was able to rappel with a single 60m. Once to the intermediate anchor and from there to the ground (out right on the ledge). Be careful if your rope is potentially a little short of 60m or doesn't stretch much.


Location: South America : Argentina : Mendoza (Los Arenales) : Mejor No Hablar de Ciertas ... (5.10+)
By: claramie When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Route description.

Approach from the trail that leaves the back right corner of the refugio. It takes about 45 minutes to get to the base of the route.

P1 - 5. Start up the rotten gully for about 600 feet. We simuled it but you could pitch it out. There are bolt anchors about every 40 meters as you go. You will rappel back down this gulley. All of this is maybe max 5.8 and mostly even easier than that.

P6. At the end of the gully, walk right and up dirt / rock ledges to the saddle. Cli... more >>


Location: South America : Argentina : Mendoza (Los Arenales)
By: claramie When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Update to Kirk's beta from our trips to Arenales in November 2014.

Most importantly, the road is currently better and is passable by a regular 2WD car. This is important, because we tried to figure out various ways to get here from Mendoza and unfortunately, we couldn't find a really cheap option. Public transport to Tunuyan or another town and then a private ride up to the park itself costs about $200 round trip. Renting the cheapest, smallest car possible in Mendoza for a 4 day trip can be a ... more >>


Location: South America : Argentina : Patagonia : Chiaro di Luna (Claro de Lu... (5.10+) : Photo (Copy)
By: claramie When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: Claro de Luna goes up the left side of the formation in this picture. If you see the snow field in the low angled part about half-way up, that's where I mentioned that we found snow and some ice but didn't need ice gear (though I bet it's different in other years). Climbing the left side of that through the shadow gets you to the flat talus bench below the headwall (about 2/3 up the route)


Location: South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : La Placa Verde : San Pedro Trip (5.5)
By: claramie When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: Not hard but fun climbing up flakes and edges. I'd call it more like 5.7 to 5.8. Gets morning sun.


Location: South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : La Placa Verde : Touch the boles (5.8)
By: claramie When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: This route is the right of the two that could have been just one. The shorter one to the left is Chuchuwasi Power. If you climb the water groove between the two routes (which is the best rock) you could easily clip either line of bolts. This one is a full 100 feet / 30 meters so tie knots in the end of your rope. Rock quality on this route is worse than average for this wall, especially higher up.


Location: South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : La Cueva : Pincitas (5.10a)
By: claramie When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: FWIW, the guidebook calls this 10c.

Also worth noting that the first 3 - 4 bolts have rust streaks coming out from behind the hanger so probably from the bolt itself. This route was established in 2004.


Location: South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : La Cueva : Putas Chicas (5.10a)
By: claramie When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Excellent hueco route that's every bit as good as it looks!


Location: South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : La Tapia : Fancy a Good Route (5.10d)
By: claramie When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route! Huecos up the water groove then other the face at the end. Not too hard for most of it but maybe a little tricky to read... then thinner moves / pockets to the anchor. Lots of fun!


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