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Member Since: Feb 18, 2009
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

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All 880 | Routes 10 | Areas 1 | Approach Trails | Photos 48 | Page Improvements | Comments 44 | Posts 351 | Stars 375 | Ratings 51
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Contributed Comments


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > i. High E > Teeny Face (5.10a)
By: cjdrover When: Sep 14, 2017

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Comments: There is a decent #4 placement halfway up the first pitch. That said, it's 5.4 and if you are contemplating leading the 5.10a above the 5.4 should not be an issue. Overall a great route, but just link the pitches.

A standard 70 m rope will just barely not make it for the rap. If you have a 70 on the longer side... maybe. Ours did.

Location: California > Lake Tahoe > Truckee River Canyon > Twin Crags > A Fine Line (5.10b)
By: cjdrover When: Sep 20, 2016

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Comments: RP's or brassies for the start, but they are pretty bomber and you can get several in.

Location: New Hampshire > WM: Bartlett / Jackson Area > Attitash Crag > The Main Area > Thin Line (5.11)
By: cjdrover When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: This is a really nice route with some thought-provoking climbing. Bolts are exactly where they need to be. I did think that 5.10+ would be a little more fair, but I also noticed from the photo posted that I did the crux with different beta that might take a little sting out of the grade. Either way, its very fun.

Location: New Hampshire > WM: North Conway > Humphrey's Ledge > The Dedication Area > It's Five What? (5.10a)
By: cjdrover When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: This fun and reasonable sustained at the grade. One 1/2"-3/4" cam near the top might be helpful.

Location: South America > Chile > Valle Cochamó > Photo
By: cjdrover When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: Many but not all!

Prospective FA's would be wise to note that vegetated cracks are at least deep enough to support roots...

Location: North America > Canada > Alberta > Banff National Park > Lake Louise > The Back of The Lake
By: cjdrover When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: To echo the above, this a fantastic crag with many excellent routes on amazing rock. The MP database is probably only 10% complete with 18 routes shown. Another guidebook that covers the area is "Banff Rock".

We only had an afternoon and morning to climb but were very impressed with the rock and route quality on everything we did. There is some really good 5.10 trad climbing with movement and rock reminiscent of the Gunks. Very friendly locals and amazing location!

Location: New Hampshire > *Whitehorse Ledge > 2. South Buttress > Wonder Wall > Science Friction Wall (5.11a)
By: cjdrover When: Dec 18, 2014

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Comments: Hi Paul - Thanks for pointing that out. When I first loaded the route I just had P4 in mind and listed the FA for that pitch. I've updated the listing, but the route entry itself could use an update describing the rest of the pitches (I haven't gotten back up there to try the rest yet). Would you like to take over the page? I think an admin can switch the ownership over to you if you'd like. -Chris

ETA: Upon review it looks the like the MP FA field does not support enough characters to properly... more >>

Location: New Hampshire > *Cannon Cliff > 4. Moby Grape Area > Vertigo (5.9 A0 R) > Photo
By: cjdrover When: Mar 20, 2014

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Comments: Awesome shot.

Location: South America > Chile > Valle Cochamó > Valle Trinidad > Pared Silverback > No Hay Hoyes (5.11a)
By: cjdrover When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: Every pitch is classic! The last pitch, in particular, is one of the more stunning finishes to a route that I've ever seen.

Location: New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge > The Diedre Area > Diedre (5.10a) > Photo
By: cjdrover When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: No, this picture is definitely a mirror image. See Brian Post's photo ??.

Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Lower Merced River Canyon > 14 - Cascade Area > Pat and Jack Pinnacle > Knob Job (5.10b)
By: cjdrover When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: This would be a local 4 star classic anywhere else.

Location: Massachusetts > Lynn Woods > Weetamoo Area > The Summit Crag
By: cjdrover When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: GPS for Summit Boulders:
N 42.4988
W 70.9966.

Location: Massachusetts > Lynn Woods > Weetamoo Area > The Summit Crag > Summit Boulder 1 > Happy Times (V0)
By: cjdrover When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: I think this description might be off - isn't this to the left of Smiley Face, on the right side? If so, it isn't is climbable as someone has stacked a bunch of rocks up in it to make a ramp (presumably for mountain biking).

Location: Massachusetts > Lynn Woods > Weetamoo Area > The Summit Crag > Summit Boulder 1 > Piss Drunk (V3)
By: cjdrover When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Is the best beta really the big reach to the right? We did it today going straight up from the sidepulls to a rounded crimp, then high feet and a reach up to juggy flake in the groove. Seemed like a more natural line. Best to consider the Crack Attack holds "off" to maintain the grade.

Location: Maine > i. Moose & Kennebec River V... > Mt Kineo > Kineo Ice Climbs > Main(e?)line (WI5+)
By: cjdrover When: Feb 28, 2013

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Comments: The Wilcox/Lewis guide gives the FRA as Cummins/Imbrie in 1977, with an earlier ascent in '75 or '76 that went unreported.

Location: New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge > Barber Wall > Off the Hook (5.11b/c)
By: cjdrover When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: Fun! Beta intensive, but I think 11b is fair once you work out the sequence. Good luck with the onsight, you'll need it. (PS - stick clip is essential, book mentions a low pin but it is gone)

Location: New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge > The Central Wall > Intimidation (5.10b R)
By: cjdrover When: May 20, 2012

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Comments: My .02:
(1) 5.10a/b "Nut trick" works pretty well but kinda occupies some of the handholds. Found the move at the bolt to be the crux.
(2) 5.8 (5.5R) 100% agree with E Thatcher above. Trickiest move had the pin right above you, 5.4 or 5.5 as you go across. You can protect the follower by climbing up P3 to get great gear in the flake, keeps the traverse a top rope the whole way.
(3) 5.10a/b I thought this was just as hard as P1 and more sustained, excellent pitch.
(4) 5.9 (5.5R) Getting a bit dir... more >>

Location: The People of Mountain Proj... > David Appelhans > Cochamo, Chile > Photo
By: cjdrover When: Mar 27, 2012

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Comments: or the binder in the refugio. daniel is working on a guidebook but it won't be available for some time.

Location: South America > Chile > Valle Cochamó > Cerro La Junta > Camp Farm (5.11b)
By: cjdrover When: Feb 10, 2012

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Comments: Fun - but a chore to rap down.

Location: South America > Chile > Valle Cochamó > La Paloma > Contrafuerte de Jesus Chris... > Go Big Or Go Home! (5.10)
By: cjdrover When: Feb 10, 2012

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Comments: Very fun! Went without a #6 but was able to dig out a 0.75 placement in a dirty crack to the left of that section. If you walk your cam you can even get away with a single #5, but you´ll be happier with two!

Location: North America > Canada > Quebec > *Quebec Ice, Mixed & Alpine > Quebec greater area ice & a... > ... > Photo
By: cjdrover When: Dec 2, 2011

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Comments: What's the obvious line to the left?

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > a2. The Uberfall - right > Ken's Crack (5.7+)
By: cjdrover When: Nov 6, 2011

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Comments: Short, safe and fun. 5.7 G feels spot on to me, it might feel strange for some folks since it climbs more like a granite crack than a typical Gunks climb. Would be 4 stars if it was three times longer.

Location: New Hampshire > WM: Pinkham / Presidentials > Huntington Ravine > Mechanics' Route (5.10b)
By: cjdrover When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: I remember rapping off a slung boulder at the top of P3 in 2010 - that we slung. Among the sketchier raps I've done. I also remember slotting myself into the offwidth at the belay on P2 and belaying my partner off the hip for fear of weighting the, uh, "anchor". Of course, when snow started 15 minutes later we had to rap off of it anyways... needless to say, it held.

Location: New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge > Barber Wall > Lichen Delight (5.11a)
By: cjdrover When: Oct 10, 2011

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Comments: I took Lee's advice and went after this as a first 5.11. I see it as a test of mental endurance - there is certainly is only one 5.11 move on it, and plenty of chances to rest, but once you commit to the route and pull onto the crux you'd better be focused if its near your limit. It eases off a little in the last 15 feet but not as much as you're hoping - definitely a challenge to keep it together and not blow the lead. Highly recommended, very fun, super safe.

Location: New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge > The North End > Recluse (5.11a) > Photo
By: cjdrover When: Sep 23, 2011

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Comments: Gotta disagree, Lee... Recluse is never easy. =P

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