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Member Since: Sep 1, 2002
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Chris Weidner
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Point Rank: # 909
Total Points: 890

49 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Chris Weidner been climbing?










Contributions


All 233 | Routes 50 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 78 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts 4 | Stars 62 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Invisible Wall (5.12a/b)
By: Chris Weidner When: Sep 2, 2017

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Comments: Chip Chace was an equal to Roger on the first ascent team. It should read FA: Roger Briggs, Chip Chace.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Ottoman Empire (5.12)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jun 24, 2017

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Comments: Matt Samet and I climbed this on February 3, 2010 thinking it was an open project.
Good route!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Rock Odyssey (5.12b)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jun 6, 2017

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Comments: I did not encounter a large, loose block on the last pitch, as earlier comments mention. A few tiny flakes exfoliated, but nothing major. The route seems as safe as any.

The last pitch goes free at about 12c, but it's tricky to figure out. Rolofson's guide mentions an enormous dyno, but thankfully, I didn't have to dyno.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Monster Tower : North Ridge (5.11)
By: Chris Weidner When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: Celin Serbo and I hauled a bolt kit to the top of this excellent route on November 8, 2016. On the way down I replaced the quarter-inch bolt protecting the 5.11 free variation to the last pitch with a stainless steel half-inch bolt. It's good to go! Still heads-up, but much safer now.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Pickle : Standard Route (5.7 C0)
By: Chris Weidner When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: I used a Leeper Logan Hook (aka Wide Aid Hook) in the empty hole at the top of the aid ladder. It felt solid and was really nice to have. Launching into the short section of free climbing on sandy, loose rock to reach the summit still feels committing. The mighty Pickle is, indeed, a bit spicy.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Whippers in Time (5.11d)
By: Chris Weidner When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Great route! It's nice to have the first bolt stick-clipped, and it's still heads up getting to -- and clipping -- the second bolt. 12a seems right.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Centaur (5.13c)
By: Chris Weidner When: Aug 6, 2015

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Comments: Chris N., this differs from the aid route only in that the crux has now been free climbed, which typically warrants "new" or "first" status.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Eagles Nest : Bromancing The Stone (5.10d)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the history Rudeboy! We found a fixed pin and/or a fixed nut. I don't recall seeing a cam up there.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Scraping By (5.10a)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jun 10, 2015

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Comments: I stayed in the dihedral and found it quite interesting. There's another small roof that isn't trivial. It's easy to top it out then downclimb to the bolts on The Prism if you'd rather lower off.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Gagger (5.13d)
By: Chris Weidner When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: I hung or fell on every one of the bolts on this route in March, 2015. They seem safe to me.


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons : East Face Gully aka Silk Ro... (WI3 M5 R)
By: Chris Weidner When: Mar 5, 2015

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Comments: A #3 and #4 Camalot are very useful on several pitches, as are a single set of cams all the way down to #00 Metolius.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Eagles Nest : Bromancing The Stone (5.10d)
By: Chris Weidner When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: You're right Josh, Pine Creek parking area. I'll change that in the text.
Thanks!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : Tooth Decay (5.11b)
By: Chris Weidner When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this in February, 2013 thinking it was a new route. I called it "Cry With the Saints." Proud effort by Larry and Andy!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Chris Weidner When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: Last August (2013), Thom Byrne and I had a couple beers and talked about the bolts I placed on Archangel. In person, we decided together that I should remove one of the first two bolts above the first anchor at the ledge about 25 feet up. I placed those bolts relatively close together to prevent a ledge fall, but there are opportunities for thin gear placements in the area of the first bolt.

Earlier I promised to remove 5 of the 8 bolts I placed, because that's what Thom originally wanted me t... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: I've enjoyed a friendly dialogue with Thom Byrne. He has asked me to remove 5 of the 8 protection bolts I placed on Archangel and to keep my new two-bolt anchor intact. I will do this as soon as I can, which will be at the end of August (I'm going out of town Wednesday morning).

Admittedly, my logic was flawed and premature, but I approached Archangel with an honest belief that it had never been free climbed previously.

I did not intend to retro-bolt an existing trad route.

I had se... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: Hey all, this is a comment I posted on the supertopo thread yesterday that I figured I should post here as well:

I should have made more of an effort than I did to contact Thom Byrne for permission before I added bolts to Archangel. I apologize for offending so many people over this.

I did ask many locals and contemporaries of Thom (including Bob Horan, Pat Adams, Bruce Miller, Joe Mills, Taylor Roy, Matt Samet, and many more) about Archangel's history. To everyone I spoke with, it was a myst... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Reportedly freed by Thom Byrne in 1988, Archangel remained largely ignored until 2013. Eight bolts and 2 two-bolt anchors were on this route before I touched it. Gear possiblities are limited to very small, flared placements; there was no useful anchor (it was too far to the side); and there were several large, loose blocks that made it a dangerous endeavor.

In June 2013, I spent several days cleaning this route on rappel, removing the old bolts, and adding new ones. I made ... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Eggs Over Sleazy (5.12a)
By: Chris Weidner When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: Haha Mark, brilliant! Thanks for some great laughs!!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Eggs Over Sleazy (5.12a)
By: Chris Weidner When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: Hey Mark, good to hear from you.
I didn't even see your anchors (great camouflage) - even with binoculars - until I'd rapped in from the very top of the cliff. They appeared old enough that I wasn't worried about the face being somebody's current project, especially having first scoped it over a year ago.

I placed a new anchor with 1/2-inch bolts about 8 feet lower (and removed your hangers), which made more sense for lowering.
The name is loosely related to our old dog Slamball, who likes it... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Secret 13 Wall : Where is My Mind? (5.13)
By: Chris Weidner When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: The third bolt had wiggled in its hole for about a year. When I checked it out yesterday the hanger had been removed, probably to prevent an accident. I replaced the bolt with a long half-incher on Feb 5, 2013. I couldn't determine the safety of the other bolts on the route but they appear to be in decent shape.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Peach Monkey (5.12b) : Photo
By: Chris Weidner When: Dec 13, 2012

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Comments: Great photo, Pinklebear!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Bed Hog (5.13a)
By: Chris Weidner When: Dec 2, 2012

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Comments: Amazing climb.
The approach is a little more of a hassle than most BoCan cliffs, but not by much. We climbed the first pitch of Mordor then scrambled another 40 feet to the base, where there's a decent belay ledge. Alternatively, you can scramble in from the side at low, albeit loose, fifth-class.
In early December, it's in the sun from about 10am until 2pm.
Great work Pat, Duncan, and Steve!


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Hearts and Arrows (5.12b)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 13, 2011

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Comments: Thanks, YDPL8S. I resubmitted a higher res topo – it's now legible.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Rock Atrocity (5.13+)
By: Chris Weidner When: Dec 29, 2010

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Comments: Rock Atrocity is one of the best and hardest routes on the Front Range, despite the poor rock quality. Over many attempts in 2010, I broke four small but positive footholds. There are now smaller (and fewer) footers at the crux and sandy smears higher up where there used to be positive edges. The route still goes just fine, but it's hard 13d.

In the interest of route preservation, I re-reinforced several crucial holds (December 2010) that were flexing and crumbling. If this route receives more... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Back in Yaks (5.9)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 3, 2010

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Comments: As per the route description, I guess I really needed the tick. I led this route onsight on 5/29/10, and it's actually quite reasonable. The first 30 feet of soloing is steep, solid, and about 5.7. After this there's bomber gear, with one more runout to the anchor (unless you reach left to clip the last bolt of Back in Yaks). Great route!

1ea. Camalots: #0.4, 0.75, 2, 3.


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