Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community


Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact chris magness

Point Rank: # 1,177
Total Points: 683
Last Year: 79
Last 30 Days: 0
5 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has chris magness been climbing?










Contributions


All 306 | Routes 23 | Areas 2 | Photos 68 | Page Improvements | Comments 83 | Posts 78 | Stars 37 | Ratings 15
Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Route (5.6)
By: chris magness When: Sep 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Glad you had fun dude!

The photos are helpful, people tend to get lost in those areas.


Location: AR : Jamestown Crag : Strawberry shortcake wall : F.O.A. (F***ed On Arrival) (5.11b)
By: chris magness When: Mar 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Felt like 11a at most to me, maybe even 10d. One technical sequence to jugs. Grade would be the same placing gear or hanging draws. Having fixed chains definately takes the sting out of the pump factor.

Grades are generaly pretty soft here.. Still, this route is f-a-n-t-a-s-t-i-c-!


Location: VT : * Vermont Ice Climbing : Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah : Crazy Diamond (WI4+)
By: chris magness When: Feb 21, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Difficulties are condition dependent. Can be climbed in one pitch with a 70.


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area : Dracula (WI4+)
By: chris magness When: Jan 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route is deserving of a better description.

Dracula left: usually around 3+, hookfest with good feet. If the ice is fresh (rare, popular!) it'll clock in at 4. There's a pin at 1/3 height. Not worth clipping unless you plan to bail.

Dracula center: Find the steepest line you can. 5.

Dracula right: Slightly harder than the left, 4. An ice dihedral toward the top will take away some of the sting. If the corner has filled in, expect harder climbing.

You can not rap this route with ... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Surfer Girl (5.12c)
By: chris magness When: Dec 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: any actual photos of this route?


Location: AR
By: chris magness When: Nov 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Mountain Project's list of Arkansas classic routes is misrepresentative: excellent climbing abounds beyond Horseshoe's realm. I expect one day that we'll all be astounded at the explosion of Ozark route development that occurred under our noses, clip-ups that rival that of RRG with a pump that can only be found in the south, and trad lines true to old school spirit found at many of the conuntry's earlier crags. Arkansas is home to many back-woodsy secret cliffs and will be known as a cooler-mo... more >>


Location: AR : Jamestown Crag : Amateur Route Area : This Ain't My First Rodeo (5.10b)
By: chris magness When: Nov 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Felt like no move was harder than 5.8, one of the steepest routes of the grade that I've encountered. Well worth a lap or two..


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Indirec... (5.10)
By: chris magness When: Nov 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I should! Felt easy to me the first go, and I was bolting in approach shoes. Perhaps my friends are just sallies?


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Indirec... (5.10)
By: chris magness When: Nov 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I've been informed from several reliable sources that the Gritty McDuff pitch isn't 5.6. Hard to tell sometimes.. Modified the grade (it'll never get 5.8!!!).


Location: NH : WM: Crawford Notch : Webster Slabs : 3. "Bore Tide Slab" / a.k.a... : Bore Tide (5.10 R)
By: chris magness When: Sep 30, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Bradley's comment is gone! Aside from some name and location confusion, it was accurate.

My previous comment has a fairly good description of the route, headwall, and grading. A Bit Short, however, is on the Lost in the Sun slab.

I realize my grade suggestion is indicative of a different route. The headwall is far too featured to climb at 10a through that area, but may have felt stiffer to to the FA bolting on lead. Regardless, the route is worth a visit as the situation and rock are spe... more >>


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Indirec... (5.10)
By: chris magness When: Jun 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yep, second pitch is the steep swell. I wanted it to go with one bolt, but it turned out to be a tad bit strenuous.. I had to come back down for my rock shoes after drilling the second bolt!


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Indirec... (5.10)
By: chris magness When: Jun 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks man! I've been eyeing these pitches for awhile. Short but really good.

The right side is pretty well tapped now; I know of a little more potential... and not all slabby stuff!


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Route (5.6)
By: chris magness When: Jun 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There is a loose block toward the top of the Wheat Thin Arete that has been of concern to me; a small horizontal at it's base is a point of protection for many climbers. The block is stable. Not to the point, however, where it can provide reliable gear, and not wanting to create an unsightly (read: nasty!) scar by trundling said block, or change the route character by creating a small ledge, I chose the lesser of evils and added a bolt (on lead).

While I don't feel particularly g... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Clamshell : Infinite (5.11+ X)
By: chris magness When: Jun 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Why not restore the route?


Location: NH : WM: North Conway : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : New Blood (5.12a/b)
By: chris magness When: May 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Tricam.

The placement isn't in the flake, it's in a bottoming crack hidden by the flake. The flake is bad, but the crack is good and the tricam seems solid. Wouldn't want to test it though.

A fun lead. One of two good routes on the Geriatric Wall (the other being Lost and Found). Boy Wonder strikes again!


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Youth Challenge (5.10b)
By: chris magness When: May 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Seldom sought; superb, stiff, sustained.

Alliteration aside (ha!), as good as hard 5.10 crack comes at Cathedral!

Agreed with Jason. The first pitch is more thuggish, the second techy. A must climb.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Bonsai : Social Outcast (5.12a)
By: chris magness When: May 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Restless Outcast Direct? Really? It's the same route, just skipping a rest and exiting on the original exit. Still easy 12.


Location: NH : WM: Crawford Notch : Webster Slabs : 3. "Bore Tide Slab" / a.k.a... : Bore Tide (5.10 R)
By: chris magness When: Aug 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No more spicey than other routes in this area, Bradley's description isn't too far off: just right of A Bit Short, [Admin's NOTE 10-5-15: see further COMMENTs...Bore Tide is NOT on the "Lost in the Sun"/"A Bit Short" slab.] follow bolts through a white streak and expext to simul climb after the first pitch. Head toward 1 o'clock and an aesthetic head wall. The 10a version is extremy soft.. felt 5.8+ to me tops (leading in approach shoes). The 10d appears to check in at the 10 grade, b... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Misdemeanor (5.10b)
By: chris magness When: Jun 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!

NRG is one of my favorite destinations, mostly because of the varied styles. I realize that Rumney has evolved in a different way, but preserving the few remaining high quality traditional lines -- that get climbed as they are -- seems prudent to me. There are Rumney climbers that lug rucks around! I love Rumney, but shake my head at bolted trad lines (and I've drilled many dozens of bolts).

I realize this is a shitty arguement and often used to justify r/x rates rou... more >>


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6)
By: chris magness When: May 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Missing Link isn't bolted, although it shares a start with Secret Chimp, which is (still spicey).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Yosemite Crack (5.9) : Photo
By: chris magness When: May 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: July 2013.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : She's Out of Reach (5.11c)
By: chris magness When: May 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Sweet dude!! Great send, that's a freakin' huge dyno!


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Mount Rainier : Central Mowich Face (AI3-4)
By: chris magness When: Apr 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Considering this is a 3 / 4 star route, the description is quite worthless. Would anyone who has climbed the route care to update the description to reflect something more insightful?


Location: NH : Photo
By: chris magness When: Apr 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Close... ha! Mt. Forist. The rock quality and climbing are reported to be quite good.

Brad White and Dave Kelly have developed a bunch of routes in recent years, mostly in that grade range. You can contact Brad at IMCS for a topo.


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Mt. Willard (Ice) : East Face - Lower : Hitchcock Gully (5.5 WI3-) : Photo
By: chris magness When: Mar 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great photo, although far easier than M3/4.


Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>