Comments: This is one of my favorite Eldo climbs. It combines the classic heady Eldo 10d pitch and an airy sporty last pitch. It is a must do underrated climb in Eldo. The 10d pitch took a bomber #3 Camalot right after you get all sketched out pulling on the loose block. Also a yellow Alien size is crucial in the 10d pitch. If you are going to go to the intermediate belay before the 11a pitch, I think there is a possible block to sling, also a 3.5/4 Camalot would be useful at this belay.
Comments: This was a great route, it got me thinking more than most 10a's. Maybe thats just me though. The edges felt slick and not very secure but the moves are all at the 10a level, just intimidating. As for a crux I thought it wasn't definitivly at the 3rd bolt but throughout because of the lack of security in the footholds. Also, beware the first bolt hanger is loose and spinning.