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Member Since: Apr 14, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Chris D

Point Rank: # 301
Total Points: 2,070

87 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Chris D been climbing?










Contributions


All 1208 | Routes 44 | Areas 27 | Photos 276 | Page Improvements | Comments 186 | Posts 440 | Stars 203 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : East Crack (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: We were going to end out long weekend at the Leap by getting on Bears Reach or Haystack, then had a good conversation with a nice couple over some beverages at Strawberry Lodge the night before. The guy (sorry dude, didn't get your name) told us to do East Crack instead. Said it was better than both.

The first pitch was great. Supertopo calls it 5.6 with a 5.7 bulge (which looks a lot more like a roof than a bulge). In reality, the moves were quality all the way up to the roof, in the 5.7 r... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Eichorn Pinnacle : North Face (5.4)
By: Chris D When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: I disagree entirely that the climbing is uninteresting. I suppose if it were a route at some junky local crag, I'd maybe agree?

Not only is the climbing quite thoughtful for the grade, it's on quality rock that is quite different from the rock you just climbed on Cathedral. Since you can't preview the route from the approach (it's around the "backside" of the pinnacle) it's a series of small surprises from the end of the traverse all the way to the summit. Even the traverse is fun, taking yo... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Tenaya Peak : Northwest Buttress (5.5)
By: Chris D When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: Don't bother with the topo; it makes no sense (you don't need it, either) and don't expect the fifth class climbing that Supertopo purports you will enjoy on every pitch. The gear recommendations in Supertopo include at least twice as much gear as you should need. We did this in 9 rope-stretching pitches and on a number of pitches placed no gear at all. Maybe two sections of fifth class, no more than 25 feet long. Lots of slab-walking, no hands required. The few sections of fifth... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Cathedral Peak : Southeast Buttress (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: With all the hype I'd read about this route I was pleasantly surprised to find that it surpassed all of my expectations. From the surprise splitter crack on the first pitch to the fun and easy chimney to the unbelievable summit panorama, this route is truly full-value. There's a lot of steep gully hiking, but it's broken up by a variety of climbing challenges, albeit solidly within the reach of any 5.6 leader with some route-finding skills. There might be one short section of face climbing th... more >>


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : Jensen's Jaunt (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: Took a number 5 camalot with me on this one today, sort of as a joke. By the time I was ready to lead out the fourth, normally easy, pitch, it was pouring rain and windy. Not only was I able to use the #5 at the belay at the top of P2, but it was a real comfort to have it to stuff under the dihedral that is most of P4. Without it, it would have probably been much more tense, as water was running down the slab and pouring off the dihedral in little trickles and waterfalls.

So if you do... more >>


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : The Long Climb (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Sep 3, 2011

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Comments: I think that the above description for the belay above the downward-pointing flake (looks more like a wedge of cheese than a flake) is off a bit. If you climb it according to Vogel's guide, after you pass the flake on the left, then go up the short corner, traverse right a little then climb an "easy crack" which is obvious, splitting steep broken rock and ending in a V-notch that can be seen from the belay at the start of the pitch. I'd guess it's at least 40 feet above the downward flake, may... more >>


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Angel's Fright (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Aug 26, 2011

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Comments: On the last pitch, you can almost eliminate rope drag by saving a couple of long runners for the gear you place just before you get into the left-trending crack that leads out under the slab with the bolt.

You don't need to extend all your gear...As you leave lunch ledge, wander as you see fit, but reserve gear placements for spots where you're directly above the belay. Extend a couple of pieces near the spot where you head out left as mentioned above, then put in one extended piece as you wal... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Jul 26, 2011

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Comments: Learn from my mistake and get as much gear off your harness as you can before launching onto this lead. Ha! Take your camera out of your pants pocket, too. Man, that was awkward!


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Gold Standard (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: Getting from the first wall to the second will be the crux for anyone in your party who isn't particularly tall. More than one way to do it, but new climbers will mostly only see the most obvious way, which is reachy. What a fun climb!


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Jun 8, 2011

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Comments: Holy CRACK! That's Beautiful!!


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: Thanks! A fun, quiet area to climb...


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Chris D When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this route yesterday. Great little adventure with a couple of quality sections of climbing and an awesome summit.

The idea that it is difficult to find/build adequate anchors anywhere on this route could only come from someone who planned poorly. With a 60m rope, the pitches described below leave between ten and thirty feet of rope between belays.

Here's how we climbed it:

P1: The first pitch begins after a short scramble up and to the left about fifteen feet from where the easy-to... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: Chris D When: May 25, 2011

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Comments: I was out there this past Saturday, and what I can't figure out is why they bolted the direct start instead of the normal start that goes out to the right a little.

Must have been some out-of-towners... Somebody should probably chop these bolts.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : El Whampo (5.7) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Sep 11, 2010

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Comments: thanks!


Location: California : Southern Sierra : Domelands : Church Domes : Rock of Ages
By: Chris D When: Sep 8, 2010

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Comments: Some additional photos of the Rock of Ages can be found here. These photos are accurately geotagged, though once you're at the crags it's pretty easy to find your way around.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Bye Crackie (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Sep 1, 2010

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Comments:


Bye Crackie


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Coyotes at Sunset (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Sep 1, 2010

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Comments:



Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Western Farm Service (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Sep 1, 2010

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Comments:


Me and Ben on Western Farm Service


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (e) Maiden Buttress : White Maiden's Walkaway (5.4)
By: Chris D When: Aug 28, 2010

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Comments: Edit: I corrected the topo and replaced it.

I should probably have included a disclaimer :) Where is this topo inaccurate?

I agree that the discussion would be ridiculous if:

- the route wasn't so popular with new climbers
- it weren't so easy to find yourself in more difficult terrain than anticipated.

Here's a link to a blank photo of the buttress if you'd like to have a shot at creating a topo... more >>


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (e) Maiden Buttress : White Maiden's Walkaway (5.4)
By: Chris D When: Aug 25, 2010

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Comments: EDIT: The original topo I put together and posted here was totally wrong (at least as far as the finish goes). I've posted a new one here now. To verify the route, I took this photo with me up the route a couple of days ago, checking features as I went. The yellow line represents the route and belays we used, right or wrong (historically speaking), and it went at about a modern 5.4. My apologies to anyone who died trying to climb the route based on the topo I posted here before! Ca... more >>


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Castle Rock Area : Photo
By: Chris D When: Aug 4, 2010

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Comments: Nice! That was quite a tree.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Castle Rock Area : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Aug 4, 2010

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Comments: It was a mind-boggling display of skill, determination, and perhaps even insanity. I SEEN IT...with my own two eyes!


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Aug 1, 2010

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Comments: My first no-falls lead in the 10s!


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Medicine Man (5.7+)
By: Chris D When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: Might be 5.8 if a lot of 5.7 moves qualifies a route as 5.8. Sustained, but easy enough decipher the moves that it's probably not 5.8.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : El Whampo (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: Ha! Wish I'd read these posts before I went out on this one today...or perhaps it's best I didn't!

I was pretty sure I was off-route on the slab above the second pitch, since there's really no pro until you get a pin scar near the top of the slab. Pretty good feet for slab...there are a bunch of black inclusions in the rock that seem to give a pretty good purchase, but there's no hands. Run-out is maybe 20-25 feet. Not sure. Merits a PG13 probably?

Get gear under the roof you go over to... more >>


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