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Member Since: Apr 14, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Chris D

Point Rank: # 302
Total Points: 2,070

87 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Chris D been climbing?










Contributions


All 1208 | Routes 44 | Areas 27 | Photos 276 | Page Improvements | Comments 186 | Posts 440 | Stars 203 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Magic Bus : Electric Koolaid (5.9+) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: That's Richard I'm pointing (and laughing) at. I didn't even notice that aspect of the photo until after I'd finished photoshopping it. Bonus!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Algae on Parade (5.7) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 21, 2012

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Comments: Wow. This looks a LOT steeper than it really is. Don't worry kids, this thing is low-angle...but TONS of fun!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Algae on Parade (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Feb 21, 2012

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Comments: What a fun, fun, route! The first pitch was fun and felt like 5.7. There's so many holds (and so little chalk) that you could have trouble finding the easiest holds and maybe commit to something that felt 5.8 (?)but with care it's a solid 7.

The third pitch is long and fun! Just a blast. Big holds, low-angle rock, two nice parallel splitters for cams, stuff to sling, what a romp. Send your budding trad leader up this one for a confidence builder, then finish the route unroped if you feel se... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Magic Bus : Electric Koolaid (5.9+)
By: Chris D When: Feb 20, 2012

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Comments: Handren must have been confused when he gave three stars to Neon Sunset and only one to this route. I think he meant to do it the other way around. This is a much better route, though the finish is odd for a sport route.

Also, if this is 5.9+, then the 5.9+ routes in the Black Corridor are 11a. No single move harder than 5.8.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : The Cathouse : Little Brown Jug (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: There's about one good pro placement on the whole route. Combine that with occasionally questionable and grainy rock and you might want to think twice about leading this thing whatever grade you're competent at.

Can be toproped by gaining the anchor after leading Felix.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : The Playwright (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: About 10 feet of business about 40 feet up, the rest is a cruise. Fun route. Good warm-up if the rest of the wall's 6's are occupied. First route in the shade as the day progresses.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : The Middle Kingdom : ... : Irish Toothache (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: A fun route, and well-bolted. From the top of this route you can make an easy but grainy and poorly-protected traverse to the right around a corner to the anchors for Glen's Crack and Jack. From those anchors, you can rap down to the anchors for Old Hornington and The Bazooka. Unlike Irish Toothache, the pro is sparse on these routes.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Hidden Falls Wall : 5.8 chopped former sport ro... (5.8 X)
By: Chris D When: Feb 3, 2012

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Comments: I was going to visit this area, but when I heard that this classic had been chopped, I wrote the to ASCA to see if they would fund replacement of the bolts, then vowed to never visit until the bolts were back. Word is this is the sleeper route in Red Rock...destined to be the next Levitation 29.


Location: General Climbing : Aid to Free Progression The... : Post : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 3, 2012

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Comments: Oh man, this is some good shit!

Perhaps the funniest, yet most poignant thing I've ever seen on this site.


Location: David A : Me : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 1, 2012

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Comments: The very definition of "ready."


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Black Corridor : Upper Level : ... : Lewd, Crude, and Misconstru... (5.9+)
By: Chris D When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: The start would seem lame if you couldn't do it.

If you primarily climb trad, this will be one of your favorite routes in the corridor. I thought it was spectacular. Most fun I've ever had on a sport route, but that's because the tricky stemming required to pass the low crux wasn't just another jug haul. I can definitely see where sport climbers would hate this. Not many climbing gyms prepare you for the opening moves. Reasonably well protected and fun!


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Feltonian Physics (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: If he was referring to the final moves between the two boulders at the top, Woody's comment that the overhang at the top is 5.4 is complete bullshit.

Never met Woody (RIP), but I've read enough objective opinions about the guy to guess he was something of a nut. I love his many contributions and comments on MP. Always a treat to stumble on one here. Take them with a grain of salt.

After you place a cam to protect the final moves, slot a nut or hex above the cam. Otherwise, your rope will s... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : White Lightning (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: Greasy at the crux.

Get pro before starting into the fist crack about twenty feet up to avoid hitting the block that the climb starts off of if you blow it. A #3 Camalot is perfect.

The hardest moves on this route are every bit as hard as the moves on 5.8 cracks in other areas. Whatever. Joshua Tree.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Poodle in Shining Armor (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: Don't tell anyone, but this route is a lot of fun! Varied climbing over flakes and plates along the periphery of a trough leads to an step out to the left onto a pretty wildly exposed face, a great summit, and a spicy downclimb. Joshua Tree gear; take it for what it's worth.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : The Trough (5.5)
By: Chris D When: Dec 18, 2011

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Comments: If you can lead 5.5, you can lead this route. This route is easy. Don't believe all the nonsense here up-rating this fun beginner route.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: Supertopo (and some here) suggest a 4" or larger piece for this route. I'd say you might want one if you're going straight up the corner on P2, otherwise, anything larger than a #3 camalot is overkill.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Polar Bears in Bondage (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: If you want to take the "PG" out of leading this route or Ursa Major, you can simply start in the crack on Polar Bears and when that peters out, move into the crack on Ursa Major. The routes are so close you wouldn't even need to extend your gear.

Both worthwhile routes with some thoughtful moves at the grade. The business is all down low.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : Mustang Ranch
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: There's a couple of big glue-in eye bolts near the top of Pahrump that can be used to rap off the top of the west (higher) formation to the east, but be prepared to work your ass off to get your rope back after rapping...lots of friction on the gob of choss up top that you rap off of.

Didn't look too hard for a downclimb, but next time I think I'll look a little harder.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : The Chicken Ranch (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: Surprisingly steep start for 5.6, this route is worth doing if only for the "ah ha!" of finding a few key holds that make it 5.6 instead of 7 or 8. Grainy rock that gets more crumbly as you go up.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Pahrump (5.4)
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: Kind of fun, since there's a short section of good moves, but there is actually a lot of loose rock on the route, so keep an eye out for that when you go to pull out instead of down.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: My guess would be that Christ floated the crux?


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Indian Wells Canyon : Owens Ridge : Owens Ridge North Face : ... : El Centro (5.5 R)
By: Chris D When: Oct 17, 2011

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Comments: My pleasure!


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Western Farm Service (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: "This route is pretty lame. It's like face climbing with a crack for protection."

Right, sort of like that other lame climb, "The Line" at Lovers Leap.

This isn't The Line, but I'm just saying, that's no criteria by which to be dismissive of a route's quality. It's a short, tricky, decent route.

I don't know about the "death block." It would take more force than a single climber could provide to dislodge it.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Angel's Fright (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: The chimney is hard if you don't use the crack inside the chimney and the couple of chockstones. In that case, it's probably more of a 5.6 or 7 off-width, but if you use everything available to you, it's not hard, and easily protected.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Corrugation Corner (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: I expected this route to be the highlight of our long weekend at (and my first visit to) the Leap.

I finished the route knowing it was one of the very best climbs I've ever done. If you're not grinning ear to ear on this thing from start to finish, you may as well hang it up. There aren't enough superlatives to describe how awesome this climb is. Suffice it to say that every pitch is 5-stars. Nearly every move on every pitch is five-stars for that matter.

On a beautiful 70 degree fall weekd... more >>


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