REI Community


Member Since: Apr 14, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Chris D

Point Rank: # 302
Total Points: 2,070

87 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Chris D been climbing?










Contributions


All 1208 | Routes 44 | Areas 27 | Photos 276 | Page Improvements | Comments 186 | Posts 440 | Stars 203 | Ratings 32
Page 2 of 8.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: Chris D When: May 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: "Our guide book said it was a trad route, we didn't place any pro."

As discussed above, a route that is protected entirely with bolts is not necessarily a sport route.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Purblind Pillar (5.8)
By: Chris D When: May 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Idaho Bob:

This is a photo of me leading pitch 6 taken from the top of P5.



Here's a link the "original" version of the photo, if you're into detail.

Chris


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : Northeast Face West (5.7)
By: Chris D When: May 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: If you're asking yourself, "should we climb this route?" here's a few things to consider.

You should not.

Vogel's ratings are gospel, and he doesn't give it any stars because it's just not very good. Also, it's a total sandbag. The second pitch alone is 200 feet of sustained 5.7 climbing with infrequent rests. If this was FA'd today, it'd be an .8. There. I said it. I'm not proud. Chuck and Ellen Wilts put this up in like, 1950, wearing galoshes and lederhosen. It was 5.6 back then, ... more >>


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertip Traverse (5.4)
By: Chris D When: May 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There's no reason to argue about the grade on this route (or other easy Tahquitz routes), but not because it's actually a "modern" 5.3 (whatever that is)...

This was one of my first leads, and I've done this route a number of times with a variety of brand new seconds on the other end of the rope and the lieback, while short and easily well-protected, is a mandatory lieback, very smooth on the feet, and includes a couple of moves that would earn a rating of 5.6 or .7 if it was FA'd somewhere el... more >>


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (i) South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: Chris D When: May 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: After climbing this route a few times, I'd advise strongly against the advice K-Tanz gives above. Half the fun of climbing this route is unlocking the puzzle to achieving the anchors at the top of the first pitch from below. The moves aren't that hard, and are a lot of fun. You will want to go pretty far left below the anchors (before you even can see the bolts) to find the easiest way to the bolts from below. It's challenging, but rewarding. Just pay attention to where the bolts are before ... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Apr 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Back to do this a second time this weekend and it was a great romp. Paying attention to the difficulty this time, I would say the traverse under the little white roof on the steep face of P4 is the crux, and every bit of 5.7.

As for skipping the "last" pitch, which is the brown patina face with the slabby sandstone with a bolt to "runout" to the anchors...go ahead, if you want to miss one of the better highlights of this climb. The slab is not hard, and by the time you're high above the bolt,... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Apr 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: What a climb! Only did the first four pitches, but it was amazing. P3 is one of the best pitches of climbing I've done anywhere. So nice.

One note - Handren calls P2 5.6. If this pitch is 5.6, I must have missed a LOT of holds. Slick rock with small holds, but no need to lieback anything. I was a little spooked on toprope! Ha!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Purblind Pillar (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Apr 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: First, the description of the route from the FA party is one of the better bits of beta I've gotten on MP. Top notch, except for the oft-noted discrepancy on the length of P3, which is unfortunate, since it's sort of important. P3 is right about 100 feet long. Pay attention to where your middle mark is on a 60m. That's assuming you started from the massive ledge after the P2 slab. You'll finish P3 on a sloping but substantial flat area right at the start of the deep, wide crack of P4, which ... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Tiny Dancer (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty awkward couple of moves for 5.6.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Tiny Applicator (5.10 X)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know that this wall is tall enough to have an X-rated route.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Indian Creek Crack (5.5)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A few fun moves. Some nice jams. Worth the walk if you're already camping at Sheep Pass.

Easiest way down is to turn right after you top out and climb the easy face that gets you to the top of the "main" wall in this area. Easy walk-off from there.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Lord Jim (5.5)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Two or three fun moves.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: If you find yourself hungover in campsite 3 without the energy or motivation to go find something good to climb, you're in luck; there's a few dinky, pretty low-quality routes right behind your campsite. Otherwise, skip this area.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Unknown (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: One of the oddest places for bolts I've ever seen. This is a super-easy chimney. I have to assume someone figured they'd found an out of the way place to practice with their bosch.

This is a good place to refine your chimney technique in a safe situation without the benefit of a rope.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge
By: Chris D When: Mar 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The guidebook has "over 800 routes" in this area. On Mountain Project (as of today)... Seven.

What gives?

Some nice pictures, but some solid "beyond the guidebook" beta from locals would be great.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertrip (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Mar 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: In an attempt to get into the sun after freezing for three pitches this past Saturday, we skipped lunch ledge by continuing past it on easy terrain just to the right of lunch ledge and belaying at the first nice spot to stop at, which just happened to be right below where the crack/corner of the 5.6 finish begins. Nice!

Got us a little warmth, but I was thinking it would be a great way to skip lunch ledge on a crowded summer day, and the climbing was better than the broken blocks directly abov... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Frank's Sandwich (5.10+)
By: Chris D When: Feb 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This thing really merits bolting. I haven't even seen it, but I'm pretty sure it needs to be tightly bolted.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertrip (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Feb 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: @Yosemitesam, The "beautiful .75 camalot sized hand crack" that you got "suckered" into is actually the original "correct" route to take at the top of the first pitch, so don't feel too bad.

From the old Chuck Wilts guide:

"Where progress to the tree is blocked, ascend a narrow crack which leads diagonally up and left on the smooth face. Traverse back to the fir tree ledge."

This option is actually easier than 5.7.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Nectar (5.4) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is the tiniest solo EVER.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : The Mikado (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Feb 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Curiously, there are multiple 5.7 moves on this steep 5.6, which manages to be both greasy and grainy at the same time. A lot of fun, and plenty of pro.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor : Toe the Line (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Feb 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great pro in the crack up top, not much below it, but that climbing is really easy. There might be one move of .8 in the crack, nothing that I can imagine anyone would seriously call 5.9.

La Reina, 5.9, is a couple hundred feet away and is in a completely different league of difficulty that this thing.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor
By: Chris D When: Feb 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'm not even high, and I cannot for the life of me figure out what the hell is what on this wall, but I was up there this and last weekend and climbed everything that went under .10 and found it to be an enjoyable wall to get a bunch of climbing in. Bolts and rap rings all over.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor : Cotton Mouth (5.6 X)
By: Chris D When: Jan 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There are bolts that run up the little gully to the right of this route, but I believe they are for another route not included here or in guidebooks. There's a line of chalked holds that follow the bolt line. Cotton Mouth (as described here) is left of the bolts.

Lots of routes crammed on this face...


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor : Willit Slab (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Jan 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: 5 bolts to an anchor with rap rings. Incredibly grippy rock makes this relatively low angle friction slab 5.6 or 5.7 instead of the harder climb it would be on smoother rock.

The skidder you'd take from just below the second bolt would get you about 15-20 feet to the deck, so be mindful.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles
By: Chris D When: Nov 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Ryan,

You should climb then down-climb each route twice. Then they will seem long. Soon, an El Cap Day will be in the bag.


Page 2 of 8.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About