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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 22, 2017
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Chris Archer
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Point Rank: # 1,172
Total Points: 725

41 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 2029 | Routes 35 | Areas 3 | Approach Trails | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 148 | Posts 10 | Stars 954 | Ratings 813
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Unfamiliar Strangers (5.9+)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 28, 2004

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Comments: An enjoyable pitch that would rate 2 stars if not for the pointless runout. Exciting in high winds.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Coney Island > Give the Dog a Bone (5.13a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 12, 2004

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Comments: Thanks Bob, it is a terrific route! I agree that 4 bolts adequately protect the crux top half. Both guidebooks only show 3 bolts above the halfway point ledge and 3 below. Removing any of the 4 headwall bolts and reducing the total to 3 would result in potential ledge falls, and would be out of character with the rest of the route. I think that a bolt up high was missed in the initial count. Mark told me that he has not been on the route, so that may account for the error in his guide. In ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Coney Island > Give the Dog a Bone (5.13a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 11, 2004

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Comments: Where were the bolts when you led it, Peter? there are now 3 bolts below the ledge and 4 bolts protecting the headwall/ crux. They all seem to be the same vintage.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Coney Island > Give the Dog a Bone (5.13a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 8, 2004

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Comments: One last note: there are 7 bolts.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Coney Island > Give the Dog a Bone (5.13a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 8, 2004

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Comments: Fabulous pitch. 1-2 cams in the hand sized range (2-3 size friends) protect the stretch to the first bolt after that the bolts are sufficient. The upper half of the route involves 3 short boulder problems separated by good holds with a rising pump.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > The Bowling Alley > Lower Right Side > A Tall Cool One (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 6, 2004

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Comments: A key flake has ripped at the second crux, making the route slightly more difficult than before.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Touch 'N' Go (5.9-)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 24, 2004

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Comments: 1st P NEW VARIATION: From the stem stance before the first crux (where the thread, big stopper, 2.5 friend placement is), pull up and over the roof to a recently excavated hold. Head straight up. About as hard as the regular way.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Coney Island > Pri-Moe (5.10d)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 23, 2004

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Comments: For many years, Bob has done an awesome job in opening numerous routes of all grades in the area. Unfortunately they can't all be gems, and IMHO this one falls into that category. After being bombarded with a steady stream of lichen, dirt, pebbles, and assorted other detritus, I got the coveted "second refused to follow! (or lead)." Maybe this route will clean up after significant traffic, but at present it is quite dirty. Some other minor points: the 4th bolt is placed too high to be clippe... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Coney Island > Lucky Strikes Again (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 23, 2004

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Comments: This route is on the far right side of Upper Coney Island. The upper half of this route is enjoyable and climbs intimidatingly steep rock on a series of amazing jugs that if they were at the Sport Park you'd think were manufactured. The lower half seemed rather dirty, uninspiring, and, at one point, somewhat runout.


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > The Winchester Cave > Ricochet (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 21, 2004

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Comments: Thanks for the recollection, Richard. I always wondered why Rob didn't open more routes protected like Ricochet, and your thread answers that question nicely! Thanks for setting the record straight.


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > The Winchester Cave > Ricochet (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 21, 2004

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Comments: Brilliant outing. Very un-Rifle-like. Lots of positive flat edges with generally obvious sequences. Richard, any additional info on the FA mix-up? I thought Rob Candelaria had opened Richocet and Puppy Love.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Coney Island > Fly Trap (5.11+)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 14, 2004

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Comments: I'd agree with Crusher's assessment: the anchors are in the middle of the crux. Would've been a better route if the anchors were moved up and another bolt added beneath them. Otherwise, strenous and somewhat inobvious sequences.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Wind Tower > Wind Tower - S Face > The Yellow Traverse (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 11, 2004

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Comments: Here's a trivia question for all you history buffs. What was the original name of this route?


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Mountain > Ridge 1 > Shootin' Off At The Mouse (5.10d)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 1, 2004

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Comments: Great thin face climbing to a fun filled steep hueco finish.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Mountain > Ridge 1 > Casana Rojo (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 1, 2004

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Comments: Good climbing (low in the grade) that is marred somewhat by bolt placements. The second bolt is in a depression that loads the biner in a way that stresses the gate in a disconcerting fashion. You can't flip the biner either because of the pocket that it is drilled in. placing the bolt on any of the flat rock nearby would eliminate this and not affect the clip. The last bolt placement is also at an odd location. Extend it with a long sling or two so your rope is clipped in below the sharp ov... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Easter Rock > Thunderdome (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: May 30, 2004

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Comments: Fabulous route. One of the best trad climbs of its grade in the Boulder area. Powerful crux. I thought Chris Peisker led this on the FA.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Cold Snap (5.11b)
By: Chris Archer When: May 13, 2004

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Comments: On a historical note, the first ascent team placed no pins or bolts and led the route on all natural gear. (Good job lads!) The route traversed in from the right climbed the crack past the current middle crux (at the pin and bolt) and then finished up and right in the chimney gully just left of Free Willie's anchors.Does anyone have any information about the direct start or finish?


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Blame it on a Rush of Blood... (5.11b/c)
By: Chris Archer When: May 12, 2004

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Comments: Does anyone know where this route is? How far right of New Beginnings?


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rincon > Rincon - Center Route & R > Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbol... (5.11+)
By: Chris Archer When: May 10, 2004

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Comments: It's my understanding that [Chris] Peisker first led this stellar pitch in 77. I suspect the differences of opinion regarding the difficulty and protection ultimately reduces to height. Climbers 5'8" and under will have a difficult time placing the RPs at the roof. For me, the placements are either blind or difficult, time consuming and skin shredding. If the placements at the roof blew as you pulled the crux, you might be hurt in the fall, although probably not badly.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Green Mountain Pinnacle > Death and Transfiguration (5.11b)
By: Chris Archer When: May 4, 2004

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Comments: Roger is not known for over grading routes. Nor, might I add, was Jim Erickson, who also assigned the solid 11 grade in his classic guide, Rocky Heights. This route has been one of the pitches in the area that has been used as a standard for measuring "solid 5.11" for over 25 years. It's about as consensus as a grade gets within a climbing community. The fact that a few others are downgrading it, merely speaks to their inability to accurately judge difficulty. Nothing to get worked up about.... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Blob Rock Area > Blob Rock > ... > Hypertension (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: May 3, 2004

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Comments: After a chossy start, the quality of both the rock and the moves increases, but 12b??!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Maiden > South Crack (5.11)
By: Chris Archer When: Apr 2, 2004

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Comments: Fabulous route, it and dream street rose on the north side deserve lots more traffic. Too bad the fixed anchor was chopped because for a while you could do south crack and east ridge back to back and rap after the cruxes without having to top out and join the bottleneck for the summit rappel. Solid 11.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes > Guenese (5.11a)
By: Chris Archer When: Mar 15, 2004

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Comments: In the late 70s there was good pin in the flake right of the second bolt. At some point it ripped, leaving a good RP placement. In the mid to late 80s, the flake broke and the RP placement was no more.

The route had traditionally been done in one pitch from the ground over the roof. However in the late 70s/early 80s, the bolt in the roof was an old 1/4 incher that was about halfway out of the roof. (It eventually pulled, making the roof lead even more exciting.) That dubious bolt resulte... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > Ignition (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Mar 15, 2004

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Comments: Great route. I agree that it doesn't deserve the seriousness rating. The crux is a 2 move boulder problem passing the second bolt that is difficult to decipher. 12a onsight, 11d if you know what to do.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > Apple Strudel (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Mar 15, 2004

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Comments: Intricate balancy face climbing with sequential foot work. An Eldorado classic. A fall getting to the first bolt would be dangerous and probably warrants a semi serious rating. FYI, the first bolt was in place when I first did the route in '85 or '86.


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