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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact Chris Archer

Chris Archer
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Point Rank: # 951
Total Points: 851
Last Year: 9
Last 30 Days: 0
33 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris Archer been climbing?










Contributions


All 2000 | Routes 33 | Areas 3 | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 143 | Posts 10 | Stars 942 | Ratings 803
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 9, 2009

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Comments: Congratulations to Erik Weihenmayer, Brady Robinson, Charlie Mace, and Cedar Wright on the first blind ascent of the Naked Edge. 5 November 2009. Outstanding and super inspirational effort!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Song of the Dodo (5.12a R)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 2, 2009

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Comments: GEAR ALERT. As of 1 November 2009, the top bolt is missing.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Road Runner (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 19, 2009

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Comments: Would be a great pitch when linked with Roadside Attraction sans the 15' runout at the top. Quite dangerous (R/X) in its current state if 5.9 is your limit. The new guide (2009) calls it 10a with 5 bolts. The grade is about right, but the bolt count is off. Fun and adequately protected climbing takes you past 4 bolts and deposits you at a contrived runout on some not so positive holds. A fall off the moves to the anchor would be quite serious. Bring small to mid size nuts (2-4 Rock size)... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Brenna (5.10d)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 17, 2009

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Comments: Nice route on good stone. Would be much improved by moving the crux bolt down 18" or so, so that it could be clipped before doing the crux move rather than after.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Talking Out Of Turn (5.10b)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 4, 2009

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Comments: The large loose block right of the anchor is still there, stacked on another loose block. Trundling does not seem like an option regardless of whether there are climbers below as it could easily take the ride to the road.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Blockhead (5.12b)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 2, 2009

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Comments: The stemming is over after the traverse right. Once you step back left the business begins, but there are several Rifle-like moves that are less than obvious that make it pretty reasonable. Glad you like the route, Mike.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Blockhead (5.12b)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 1, 2009

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Comments: It has been done without using the obvious stem. 12c/d.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Monkey Traverse : The Monkey Traverse (V4)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 1, 2009

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Comments: The monsoon season has apparently claimed another casualty: the good right hand lieback that starts the Low Traverse is gone. Anyone know when it pulled or where it ended up?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: I hadn't done this route in over 15 years until Saturday and it was terrific. Much better than I remembered with the 3OF 2d pitch var. While 11a for the 3d pitch start seemed generous, 10a for the upper hand crack seemed quite stout. A blue Camalot was the biggest piece of gear we took and it came in handy protecting the crux moves above the roof on 3OF as well as the flare on the 3d pitch direct start. The rest of the rack consisted of RPs (optional), Nuts 1-6, and 2 sets of cams: Aliens - go... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : LAYTON KOR AT NEPTUNES 2 SH...
By: Chris Archer When: Apr 15, 2009

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Comments: Outstanding!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Unbroken Chain (5.11c R)
By: Chris Archer When: Apr 14, 2009

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Comments: Oh man... sorry to see that picture, Scott. Hope your recovery is quick and look fw to seeing you back in Eldo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : False Prophet (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 10, 2009

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Comments: I'd be happy to help you place the anchor, Adam.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : False Prophet (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 9, 2009

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Comments: Why not submit an application to ACE to do so?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : West Ridge Boulders : West Ridge Traverse (V5)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 6, 2009

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Comments: Sun until 3:30 PM 6 Feb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Ghetto Cruiser (5.7+)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 24, 2008

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Comments: Surprisingly fun route. Not sure where you'd place the number 4. It is too small for all but the first few feet of the offwidth. More pleasant climbing is had in the dihedral to the left of the OW. Belaying just before heading up and left on the Easy Street ramp will prevent considerable rope drag and provide some shelter from gale force winter winds.

The anchors are not well thought out. The two options are extending the anchors with long slings to lower to the bolts on the top of Untit... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Security Risk (5.10)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 24, 2008

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Comments: Terrific route, which is the namesake of the two Security Risk formations. It seems odd to grade the route according to the easier and less interesting variations and to describe the variations as the route. The route starts on the 10+ corner. It is not 5.9. IMO the route should be listed and graded as originally climbed, with the easier variations being noted as options. Good gear is available, but strenuous to place on the original first pitch The route gets another star if you run both p... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: First Route in Eldorado?

2010 will be the 75th anniversary of the first rock climb in the Gunks: The Old Route at Millbrook, FA by Fritz Weissner, 1935. This got me thinking: what was the first rock climb in Eldorado? As near as I can tell from the guides, the Bastille Crack may have that designation. Jim Erickson placed the first ascent in the early 1950s by US Army climbers. After that there are several routes done in 1956, the most challenging being the Redgarden Route. Does anyone hav... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 13, 2008

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Comments: Thanks for the update, Jason. Just to be certain, how do you know that OSMP owns these crags? Can you post a link to any public records that would establish this? As you know the ownership of land in the Boulder Falls area is often difficult to determine, so it would be good to double check this information.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Interceptor (5.11b R)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 15, 2008

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Comments: Based solely on the last 2 editions of Rossiter's guides to Eldo (1989 & 2000), the FA is listed as Christian and Dale in 1984 (or perhaps the Kid in '77).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Quiet Desperation (5.11c R)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 22, 2008

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Comments: Rob, it's an independent line R of Sidewall with better protection than Sidewall's first pitch.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : Uckfay Ushbay (5.11a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: Great position and fun moves. This route climbs up dark grey rock to an obvious left facing corner in cream colored rock. The brief crux is encountered starting the corner.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : The Bush League (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: Terrific route. The opening crux, which can be easily avoided to the left, felt like 12b after some tries working out an inobvious sequence. The second half of the route is among the best in the area. A boulder problem at the 2d bolt off the ledge leads to fun climbing with big moves to big, sometimes hidden, holds. 12a on its own.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Drive By Shooting (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: This is a great route and would get 4 stars if not for the serious, 10+ ledge out finish. Don't blow the top.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Corporate Greed (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: This short route climbs a left-facing dihedral just left of Snipe Hunter (12c). 5 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : American Beauty (5.12b)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: This is an excellent route. How ironic that a lengthy discussion on chipping should occur in relation to this route, which is not chipped. If this climb were located on a less controversial crag it would be highly regarded and quite popular.


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