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Member Since: Apr 2, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 18, 2017
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chipacles
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Total Points: 150

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 481 | Routes 10 | Areas 2 | Approach Trails | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts 4 | Stars 307 | Ratings 123
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Blair (overview) > Lower Blair I, II, III, and... > Lower Blair III > Take 5 (5.11a/b)
By: chipacles When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: Very fun route! Nice mix of climbing with some difficult (for me at least!) crack climbing down low to some techy slab climbing up top (hard to see the holds and crystals after a good rain!). Well bolted!

Watch out for a loose, horizontally oriented flake as you top out under the anchors...I was trying to pull up onto the ledge and grabbed it, felt it flex, and so just pulled up without it....


Location: Connecticut > Western Coastal Slope > Photo
By: chipacles When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: Where is this? I can't find WarZone crag posted...


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Elevenmile Canyon > Sports Crag > Shock the Monkey (5.12a)
By: chipacles When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: This route may have just gotten harder: I pulled a rather large piece off from inside the crack just before the route goes vertical. It's now wide enough for, probably, a #4 Camalot. Not sure how that will affect the grade, but it freaked me out...glad my belayer was way under the overhang.


Location: Colorado > Morrison/Evergreen > Matthews-Winters Park > The Millenium Boulder > Prow Problem (V6-)
By: chipacles When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: Did this one today. Very nice, fun problem. I don't boulder enough to know grades, but it felt hard but doable and very enjoyable.

BETA ALERT

Brandon: Once you've got your left hand on the slanted edge, heel hook the side-pull start hold with your right foot. This should let you get your right hand up to the good slanted crimper. Hope that helps.


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Book > The Pages Wall Area > Osiris (5.7+)
By: chipacles When: Oct 17, 2011

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Comments: I wish someone would correct the route description on this line. It's worse to get bad, COMPLETELY WRONG beta than to get no beta at all. So, to clarify:

The first pitch is long, perhaps 150 feet, and the belay ledge has NO TREE.

Pitch two has a tree and this can linked with P1 for a nice long climb.

I agree with an earlier poster that there is no "hand crack" on pitch three...there are some cracks, some parts of which are hands, but it's not a "hand crack"....unless you count varying w... more >>


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Mt. Evans > The Black Wall > Good Evans (5.10d)
By: chipacles When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: Did this last weekend (6 Aug 2011), and it was great! Difficult for me, as I barely lead 10+ on trad, and at altitude, it got me huffing a bunch!

For pro, I would recommend four #3 Camalots, one #4, and even one #5 for the third pitch in the dihedral (my partner used a tipped out #4, and had to shuffle that one piece up the whole thing...pretty sketchy). Other than that, I think we had three #2s as well. Could be we just don't have enough experience with this type of climbing, but when I led... more >>


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Primo Wall > Breakfast Club (5.12a)
By: chipacles When: Jun 28, 2011

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Comments: I have to agree with Luke Childers: This route has a scary last clip...bolt should be down at least a foot...you could clip from the same hold, but just not have to pull as much slack. Even the second bolt offers a potential groundfall if missed. Beware if you get on it.

That said, I think the upper section has nice movement and a little bit of beta to make you earn the 12.


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Capitalist Crag
By: chipacles When: Jun 19, 2011

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Comments: To whoever stole my draws off Free Enterprise at Capitalist Crag:

What is wrong with you? Seriously? Stealing someone's project draws? Really? I mean, stealing is bad enough, but stealing within our community of climbers who leave stuff up, in good faith, for anyone to use? Are you that poor? Or are you just that big a dick?

You deserve the absolute worst in life. I hope you get it.

--------------------------------------------

To everyone else: Don't leave draws here, or on Anarchy, as it'... more >>


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon
By: chipacles When: Jun 19, 2011

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Comments: To whoever stole my draws off Free Enterprise at Capitalist Crag:

What is wrong with you? Seriously? Stealing someone's project draws? Really? I mean, stealing is bad enough, but stealing within our community of climbers who leave stuff up, in good faith, for anyone to use? Are you that poor? Or are you just that big a dick?

You deserve the absolute worst in life. I hope you get it.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Mt. Evans > The Aprons
By: chipacles When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: A few things I'd like to add regarding area beta, and I think this would helpful to add to the area description above.

1) I took two altimeters with me yesterday, and the average between the two put the Second Apron at 750, which seems right, as it took me four and a half pitches at 50 - 65 meters per pitch (I was using a 70m rope).

2) The approach. Let's be clear about this. You don't just "take a leisurely alpine walk." Not even close. It will take about an hour from the parking lot to... more >>


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Rainy Day Rock > Rainy Day 12A (5.12a)
By: chipacles When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: Fun route with some hard moves at the second bolt.

If you move to the jug above the second bolt before clipping that bolt, you should be ok to clip from a safe position. The danger, as I see it, comes from clipping it from the precarious position inside the dihedral. Just wait to make the jug: if you fall going for it, I don't think you'd hit the ground...it'd be close, but I doubt you'd deck (unless you have a 10 year old belaying you).


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Rainy Day Rock > Your Brain on Rain (5.11c/d)
By: chipacles When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: I like the movement and wish it were a bit longer. It is pumpy, and a bit heady and burly, but I still wouldn't give it 11+ either. A straight 11 seems fair, given the difficulty/danger of the first clip (and even second clip should be done carefully!).

Overall, fun, just be careful not to blow the first two clips!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: chipacles When: Sep 1, 2010

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Comments: Don't know why, but I couldn't figure the crux out. Then watched my girlfriend do it. Went back up and sent it, no problem. Just gotta find the right sequence through the crux.

Pretty fun stuff.


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > The Sports Wall > Balkan Dirt Diving (5.12a)
By: chipacles When: Sep 1, 2010

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Comments: Fun route and with a tough first move! I think this move is hard for 12a, but given that it's the first move and you can do it again and again until you get it, then send the rest, it makes it 12a, as the rest of the route isn't nearly so hard (though still stout!).

I love the thin techy moves down low and the bigger, burlier moves up top. Fun stuff with a nice mix.

I put a BD #1 C3 in up top, though really, once you pull the lip, you should really fall since the stances are good and you... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Shirt Tail Peak > Gambit (5.8)
By: chipacles When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Awesome fun! Great leads, especially the second and third pitches. (I did it in four pitches, as per Levin's excellent book.) DO watch out for loose rock that you can easily kick off the belay ledges by accident.

Have fun!


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Wall of Justice > The Great Escape (5.12b/c)
By: chipacles When: Aug 2, 2010

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Comments: Apparently I used a sort of "cheat," pulling off a horn out left instead off both underclings, though how one is supposed to know that the horn is off is beyond me. I think moving off both underclings would up the difficulty by a letter grade, though...but I've yet to try it. Next time I'm there.

That said, it's a lot of fun. Once you pull the crux, then there are some HUGE jugs on the roof to a sort of burly lip. Great movement, tons of fun, get on it!!!


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Wall of Justice > Slammer (5.12b)
By: chipacles When: Jul 8, 2010

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Comments: Super fun route! Pulling the lip is the hard part...if you get the right beta for the upper mantle, it's really not that hard. Very well-protected, and just tons of fun! Get on it!!


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > High Wire Crag > Road Rash Roof (5.12a)
By: chipacles When: Jun 24, 2010

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Comments: FUN route! The climbing up to the roof is heady but not difficult. You get to the roof, turn around, and WOW, can we say exposed! But as you lean out over nothing on those awesome jugs, it's just amazing! One of the most fun routes I've climbed anywhere, just for those few moves on the roof and pulling the crux on the lip. The clip just over the lip with the heel hook is classic and awesome!

I second D's Nutz's suggestion on putting a long (like 2 ft, using a sling) draw under the roof..... more >>


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > High Wire Crag > Road Kill (5.11c/d)
By: chipacles When: Jun 11, 2010

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Comments: I thought that pulling the lip after the roof is quite a bit easier than Hey Good Lookin' (Wall of the '90s), so it seems an 11c/d rating is appropriate. Getting over the bulge just below the anchors is rough after pumping through the roof. Still, the holds pulling the roof are good. Fun route to work out, and with some nice variety given that the beginning (after the first set of anchors) is slabby.

(I started at the first set of anchors, since climbing up to there just seemed pointless a... more >>


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Little Eiger > Eiger Direct (5.11d)
By: chipacles When: Jun 9, 2010

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Comments: One of the best lines I've done so far at Clear Creek.

The roof, as others have said, isn't so hard: just lie back and walk up.

The crux is awesome. Like a lot of face climbing, you have to just trust your feet and move through it. To make the clip at the crux, I had to move way left, onto another sort of lieback, then toe up and clip. Would've been an awkward fall if I'd missed it, but way easier than trying to clip from the so-so hold below.

Fantastic route!!


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Early Wall > Runway (Lower Tier) > Mocos Locos (5.11b)
By: chipacles When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: The first five clips are pretty heady. Making the crux move out of the dihedral and onto the face for (I think) the third clip is scary...falling here could be bad. After the fifth bolt, it's not heady anymore, but you've still got 8 clips to go and it's pretty sustained climbing. Fun route.


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... > Grotto Left (East Side) > Bush in a Blender (5.12a)
By: chipacles When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: As of May 29, 2010, this route just a got a bit harder: a pretty good gaston about halfway up broke off as I was making a move out right, and that was that. Still doable, but that section is going to be harder. As I was bolt-to-bolting it, I don't know if it'll raise the grade...


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
LOST: Canon CameraLost and FoundchipaclesOct 1, 2010
re: Eldorado Canyon: The Gambit: South Dakotan Ledge PoopersTrip ReportschipaclesSep 29, 2010
re: Eldorado Canyon: The Gambit: South Dakotan Ledge PoopersTrip ReportschipaclesSep 27, 2010
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