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Member Since: May 15, 2001
Last Visit: Dec 29, 2016
Contact Chip Phillips

Point Rank: # 456
Total Points: 1,655

26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 580 | Routes 127 | Areas 2 | Approach Trails | Photos 71 | Page Improvements | Comments 174 | Posts 20 | Stars 171 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > North Rocks > Southwest Arête V3 (V3)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jul 28, 2008

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Comments: Correct name and FA info: Southwest Arête V3 ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1975

see here for more: flagstaffmountainbouldering.bl...


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Pebble Boulder > North Overhang (V3-4)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jul 28, 2008

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Comments: This problem has historically been known as North Overhang V3/4 ... FA by Pat Ament, 1967.

See here for more: flagstaffmountainbouldering.bl...


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Pebble Boulder > West Overhang (V3)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jul 28, 2008

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Comments: Recent guidebook authors have confused a few of the problem names/grades on this section of the boulder for years. It follows that this problem is incorrectly named, incorrectly graded and no FA info is provided. If you care, here you go ...

West Overhang V3 ... FA: Richard Smith, mid 1960s.

See here for more: flagstaffmountainbouldering.bl...


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Beer Barrel Boulder > Beer Belly aka Beached Whal... (V6)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jun 9, 2008

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Comments: Peter, I need to show you the kneebar one of these early mornings. I finally "found" the kneebar earlier this year and it went in a few minutes. The second key to the problem is a little foothold under the bulge. V6 seemed about right.

FWIW, the correct name for this problem is Beer Belly, FA: Chris Lesher, 1998.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Mt. Evans > The Black Wall
By: Chip Phillips When: May 22, 2008

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Comments: Obviously the Black Wall itself, and bouldering-wise Areas C & D. I'm pretty sure all downvalley bouldering is fine.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Eldorado Canyon Bouldering > The Gill Boulder > Horan Face (V5-6)
By: Chip Phillips When: May 12, 2008

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Comments: FWIW, the problem done by John Baldwin is about 10 ft right of 606.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Eldorado Canyon Bouldering > The Gill Boulder > Horan Face (V5-6)
By: Chip Phillips When: May 12, 2008

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Comments: As for this problem, Horan identified it as the Horan Face. While it is certainly possible Pat (Ament) or John (Gill) did this problem back in the day, Pat never mentioned it in ANY of his guides and considering that it used to have a pretty bad landing, my best guess is that they passed on it.

It is a pretty damn good problem and with the addition of Will's 606 to the Gill Boulder, it is as popular as ever.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 25, 2008

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Comments: Thanks for the plug Caleb. FWIW, the blog-guide on the above link should be completed by the end of 2010. It has been a much longer process than I expected.

It was always my hope that I would publish this guide as a fold-out map on tear-proof/waterproof kevlar paper. At this time, however, I believe the online format works best for this sort of endeavor. Entries may be edited/modified, etc. as unknown and new information comes to light.

As of 01/2010, approximately 670 problems covering more t... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Pebble Boulder > Northeast Mantel (V3)
By: Chip Phillips When: Mar 28, 2008

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Comments: A complete miniguide to the Pebble Wall can be found here:

www.flagstaffmountainbouldering.blogspot.com/

There is not a great answer for your Q. I thought Mike Moelter developed the problem, but was told Bart Strege did it first which must have been in ~2001 or 2002 based on when he was pulling hard in CO. I'm not sure how to reach him for the history of the problem. If anyone knows, please provide info or give him a heads up.

As an aside, Northeast Mantel is nowhere near V4, but I digress.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Cloud Shadow > Trice (V12)
By: Chip Phillips When: Mar 22, 2008

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Comments: Seth Allred and Giovanni Traversi have now done Trice as well. It's funny what the Holloway article in Climbing and a Letter to the Editor inspired ... 8 ascents so far and Paul and Ty haven't even done it yet. Props to Carlo and Jamie for "re-opening" the problem on the same day in December.

Of note, DW tacked a few moves onto the beginning of Trice in January 2008, starting at the dihedral on the right and traversing left into Trice. He named it Epochalypse V13. Not sure why he did not do the... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Three of a Kind Wall > The Face (V3)
By: Chip Phillips When: Feb 20, 2008

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Comments: There are 4 highball problems between The Face and The Culp Route (now known as Round Pebble). All are in the V4 to V6 range. Not sure what problem Benningfield may or may not be referencing. His guide to Flagstaff in Colorado Bouldering I covers a little more than a 1/3 of Flagstaff's boulder problems. I'll be putting the Three of Kind Wall Miniguide up on my blog soon. You'll be able to see it all there.

flagstaffmountainbouldering.bl...


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Cloud Shadow > Trice (V12)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 17, 2008

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Comments: Dave Graham has now done Trice as well. That's ascent #s 2-6 between November 14th, 2007 and January 10th, 2008. I guess that Holloway article in Climbing a few months ago inspired some strongmos to give what must be the world's first V12 a few whirls, particularly after it sat unrepeated for 32 years.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > First Overhang > First Overhang (V5-6)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 1, 2008

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Comments: Someone has replaced the hold which broke in April of 2003. No glue is visible, but it is certainly there. Not sure the hold will last, but the character of the problem has been restored to its pre-2003 condition. Time will tell if this was a smart decision, but I enjoyed climbing it again a few weeks ago.

It's approximately V5 again ... at least for now. Not sure who did the glue job, but a lot more folks will do this one for fun again.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Cloud Shadow > Trice (V12)
By: Chip Phillips When: Dec 23, 2007

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Comments: A few things:

For those who care ... Holloway's FA was in 1975. Also, the starting holds in the above beta photo are a bit misleading. The problem starts - according to Jim himself - with the good LH sidepull and good RH undercling.

As reported, Jim Holloway's Trice is no longer unrepeated. Carlo Traversi, Jamie Emerson, James Pearson and now Daniel Woods have repeated it. Pete's guesstimation of the grade was spot on. Four ascents by strongmos in the last few weeks have confirmed it at V12. I... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Monkey Traverse > Shallow Slot (V3-4 PG13)
By: Chip Phillips When: Nov 27, 2007

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Comments: Again ... FWIW, the FA was by Pat Ament in the early/mid 1960s.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Eldorado Canyon Bouldering > The Gill Boulder > 606 (V10)
By: Chip Phillips When: Nov 24, 2007

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Comments: FWIW, the FA was done by Will LeMaire, 2004.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Nook's Rock
By: Chip Phillips When: Jun 27, 2007

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Comments: Kris, I'm guessing here, but I suspect you are talking about Butt Slammer, since it is the most obvious and inspiring (except for the rock quality) line on the boulder. Butt Slammer was put up by Rob Candelaria in 1974/75 and ascends the steep and airy southeast overhang above a small slab that faces downhill. At the time, it was rated B1+, which usually equates with V5 or 6 for most of Ament's ratings. Unfortunately, the rock is not the best and, shortly thereafter, a critical flake broke and s... more >>


Location: Colorado > Fort Collins > Poudre Canyon
By: Chip Phillips When: May 17, 2006

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Comments: FWIW, about 30 problems have been put up in Young's Gulch.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Three of a Kind Wall > Red Streak (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 7, 2006

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Comments: Nice addition Ben. Here are a few additional details ... the FA to The Red Streak was by Skip Guerin, late 1980's/early 1990's. The variation to The Red Streak is known as Colin's Thing, circa 1993-4 by Colin Lantz. These are among the very best highballs on the Mountain and I agree with the *** rating.

IMHO, and according to the opinion of a few others, The Red Streak is a little easier than Colin's Thing. The two have very different 2-3 move cruxes, both in the V5-6 range. Once you do the lon... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Three of a Kind Wall > Kaptain Face (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 6, 2006

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Comments: Scott - Many of the Flagstaff problems you've recently added to the database are long overdue additions, so good job. However, the problem you are describing here is not Kaptain Face, but rather Little Sloper Boy, which - if you've done it - is more like V2 or V3.

Kaptain Face (FA: Neil Kaptain, 1985) begins at the funky undercling and adjacent crimp on the left side of the start for Round Pebble, does a couple funky moves (most people match on a sloping corner hold) directly up to the good edg... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov... > Gill Swing (V4)
By: Chip Phillips When: Jan 8, 2006

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Comments: It is generally thought that the true Gill Swing has never been repeated.

The right hand hold is the worst and smallest one on the face (it's not on the arete), there's no left hand and you have to high step almost to your belly button these days since the ground has eroded 18-24 inches inches or so. still fun, just don't expect to do what Gill did.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Rear-End Rock > South Bulge (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Apr 13, 2005

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Comments: Nice job Andy. This problem is actually called Left Bulge. It was originally done via a cheatstone in 1967 by Pat Ament. It appears it was repeated that way until CG and Harrison Dekker added the low start in the early to mid 1980s. Benningfield mentions the low start to the problem as if that is the problem. Not at V5 it's not.

Three versions (grades are just estimates - form your own opinions!):
High-start from lip (cheatstone or jump) ... V4/5
Regular-start with LH undercling and RH crimp ..... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Road Sign Rock > Northwestern Overhang (a.k.... (V3+)
By: Chip Phillips When: Nov 15, 2004

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Comments: V2 ... Right!!!

B1 is the correct grade, which typically translates into V4 on Flag. I'd say that's just about right, assuming you are beginning from a sit on using opposing slopers underneath the bulge on the far right. Guidebooks are a useful indicator of grades, but that's just about it. Think for yourself when you add problems to the database.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Cloud Shadow > Undercling Traverse (V9)
By: Chip Phillips When: Nov 1, 2004

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Comments: Down low on the sloping ramp.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Satellite Boulders > ... > Aerogel (V5)
By: Chip Phillips When: Oct 29, 2004

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Comments: IMHO, the way you are describing is easier than the 2 variations I described above Micah ... in the neighborhood of V3 or 4 if I remember correctly.

That said, the way you described is certainly the least contrived way to the top.


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