REI Community


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Charlie S

Charlie S
is a member of
Point Rank: # 534
Total Points: 1,308

37 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Charlie S been climbing?










Contributions


All 1515 | Routes 30 | Areas 4 | Photos 217 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 164 | Posts 383 | Stars 584 | Ratings 132
Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
By: Charlie S When: Jul 22, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great location to escape the heat for the summer. As such, it is popular. Please be respectful and polite to other parties...

Clipping a QD on the route next to yours to "claim" it is not cool. Also, the running water is loud so when you knock off a couple bowling ball size rocks, you need to shout and keep shouting.

Most routes feel a couple letter grades soft. However, nearly all are cerebral and none are "gimme"s.


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Shady Side : Heavy Metal Rock Band : Goodnight Gorilla (5.12b)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 16, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route, but way soft at 5.12b. A number of 5.12a's in the area are harder.

Enjoy the powerful moves and then get a good shake before the top slab. A little bit of everything!


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Chico (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 16, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The left water groove start is 5.8. The direct/right slab start would be the "standard" 5.9+ slab.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : Ride the Lightning (5.11)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 8, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Probably the best route on the wall.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Snowbasin
By: Charlie S When: Jun 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Snowbasin is undergoing what appears to be major trail overhauls this summer. A number of trails are temporarily closed due to this work, and the closures may move around the mountain throughout the summer.

Please follow the signs and be ready to take a longer walk if necessary. Doing so enables continued free access to the mountain.

For today (6/25/2017), a detour was in place for Needles #1 and Trail #12 trails. This added about 0.5 miles to the "usual" shortest/steepest route u... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Oracle (5.11b/c)
By: Charlie S When: May 29, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Sandbag!

Minus points for the hiking gumbies who will walk right through your stuff as you attempt to make upward progress.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Chicken Rodeo (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: May 20, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Not that great. The single leg squat to get up the chickenhead highlighted my lack of quads.

I give the sling over the chickenhead a 60% chance of staying on. Was able to sneak in a #0.4 before the traverse to the chickenhead.

2nd crux is just as heady but not nearly as difficult.


Location: Utah : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Pocket Full of Trundles (5.11c/d)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: New steel anchor biners added 4/12/2017. I thought we added some last fall but can't remember for sure (aluminum biners were present today). Please leave them as a courtesy to other climbers.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Last First Crack (5.11)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A powerful little sucker which is steeper than it initially appears. Some of the rock is still crumbly on the face, but the crack and key footholds are solid.

Place gear or gun for it? Your choice. The ground is pretty close. Thanks for equipping this route!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Jupiter Crack (5.11)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I was skeptical of the greatness but this line truly lives up to its reputation. Far from "R," but a touch heady at the start. Commit and you'll be fine.

Gear: doubles each of #1 to #6 will be more than adequate. The doubles of larger pieces are good for the second. Bring a few long draws to diminish drag.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Ankle Biters (5.11)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: An enjoyable route with an in-your-face powerful start.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Cabeza de Pollo (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A good route. Needs some more traffic to clean up the feet. Takes gear well.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 13, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: It was very nice to climb a tower and not feel like I was going to die. A change from North Six Shooter! One of the best overall experiences on a desert tower thus far.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : Community Service (5.9) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Oct 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: @Jay thanks!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : Community Service (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A fine addition to the wall. A cerebral route which is more engaging than it looks from the ground.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : El Chollo (5.10d)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The slab crux is a little disheartening, but the rest is stellar!

The new guidebook recommends doubles to #3. That's a little off...singles to #0.75 is sufficient, maybe an extra or two for #0.4 and #0.5.


Location: Utah : Echo Canyon : Roadside Crag : Unknown 5.10a (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route can be distinguished by the steel biners on the chains.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area
By: Charlie S When: Sep 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Fun granite jug hauling. Who knew that existed, let alone in LCC!? Thanks to the developers! Despite the routes shorted by rock slide, it is still a worthy locale.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Sep 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This picture was key. Thanks for posting!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Ginseng (5.10a) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Sep 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: And at the top (at the dead tree in this photo), you can traverse left back to the Sasquatch anchors.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Hidden Heavenly Slab : My God, Your God (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: You can rap the entire route with a 70m.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Pirate Treasure (5.11)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is an excellent route! Very cool rock the second half.

Do your second a favor if they're weaker, and unclip/pull out the first and second QDs/bolts after the crux so they don't get pulled over into the nothingness if they fall.


Location: Utah : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Conductor (5.10c/d)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: All holds solid today. Nice to have something more techy than its neighbor to the left, but more sustained than the 10s to the right.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Minions of Chaos Area : Minions of Chaos (5.10+)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A sweet line. Pitches 2 and 4 are awesome. Pitch 3 wasn't THAT bad...

Pitch 2 felt a lot like the cryptic edge climbing found in BCC. Pitch 4 was like a granite version of Goodro's Wall. Protects well the whole way.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Shadow of the Blade (5.10d PG13)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This climb has it all! Crimps, pockets, jugs, sidepulls, underclings, heel hooks, mantels, and even multiple hand jams. A stellar route on rock quality slightly better than Black Streak, though watch those lose edges.

Definitely felt like the ratings on the first two pitches should be reversed (5.10b then 5.10d). The upper 5.10 pitches climb totally different and felt substantially "easier" than the first two.

That being said, the 2nd pitch is basically 100&@PO... more >>


Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About