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Rock Climbing Photo: Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Charlie S

Charlie S
is a member of
Point Rank: # 494
Total Points: 1,509
Last Year: 223
Last 30 Days: 5
32 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1367 | Routes 28 | Areas 4 | Photos 202 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 156 | Posts 331 | Stars 520 | Ratings 125
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Last First Crack (5.11)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: A powerful little sucker which is steeper than it initially appears. Some of the rock is still crumbly on the face, but the crack and key footholds are solid.

Place gear or gun for it? Your choice. The ground is pretty close. Thanks for equipping this route!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Jupiter Crack (5.11)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: I was skeptical of the greatness but this line truly lives up to its reputation. Far from "R," but a touch heady at the start. Commit and you'll be fine.

Gear: doubles each of #1 to #6 will be more than adequate. The doubles of larger pieces are good for the second. Bring a few long draws to diminish drag.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Ankle Biters (5.11)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: An enjoyable route with an in-your-face powerful start.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Cabeza de Pollo (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: A good route. Needs some more traffic to clean up the feet. Takes gear well.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 13, 2016

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Comments: It was very nice to climb a tower and not feel like I was going to die. A change from North Six Shooter! One of the best overall experiences on a desert tower thus far.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : Community Service (5.9) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Oct 8, 2016

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Comments: @Jay thanks!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : Community Service (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 7, 2016

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Comments: A fine addition to the wall. A cerebral route which is more engaging than it looks from the ground.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : El Chollo (5.10d)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 1, 2016

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Comments: The slab crux is a little disheartening, but the rest is stellar!

The new guidebook recommends doubles to #3. That's a little off...singles to #0.75 is sufficient, maybe an extra or two for #0.4 and #0.5.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Roadside Crag : Unknown 5.10a (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 16, 2016

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Comments: This route can be distinguished by the steel biners on the chains.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area
By: Charlie S When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Fun granite jug hauling. Who knew that existed, let alone in LCC!? Thanks to the developers! Despite the routes shorted by rock slide, it is still a worthy locale.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: This picture was key. Thanks for posting!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Ginseng (5.10a) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: And at the top (at the dead tree in this photo), you can traverse left back to the Sasquatch anchors.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Hidden Heavenly Slab : My God, Your God (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: You can rap the entire route with a 70m.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Pirate Treasure (5.11)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: This is an excellent route! Very cool rock the second half.

Do your second a favor if they're weaker, and unclip/pull out the first and second QDs/bolts after the crux so they don't get pulled over into the nothingness if they fall.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Conductor (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 2, 2016

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Comments: All holds solid today. Nice to have something more techy than its neighbor to the left, but more sustained than the 10s to the right.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Minions of Chaos Area : Minions of Chaos (5.10+)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 30, 2016

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Comments: A sweet line. Pitches 2 and 4 are awesome. Pitch 3 wasn't THAT bad...

Pitch 2 felt a lot like the cryptic edge climbing found in BCC. Pitch 4 was like a granite version of Goodro's Wall. Protects well the whole way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Shadow of the Blade (5.10d PG13)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: This climb has it all! Crimps, pockets, jugs, sidepulls, underclings, heel hooks, mantels, and even multiple hand jams. A stellar route on rock quality slightly better than Black Streak, though watch those lose edges.

Definitely felt like the ratings on the first two pitches should be reversed (5.10b then 5.10d). The upper 5.10 pitches climb totally different and felt substantially "easier" than the first two.

That being said, the 2nd pitch is basically 100&@PO... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Black Streak (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: Based on the comments above, this route doesn't get the credit it deserves. If you are a solid 5.10 climber, do not pass this up. The last two pitches' rock quality is significantly better than the bottom two.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : High on Crack (5.8+)
By: Charlie S When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: This route is unfortunately home to several briar patches now. The arete/face to the left goes at about 5.6R.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Goodro's Nightmare (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: May 27, 2016

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Comments: New first pitch sling anchor as of 5/23/2016.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : Bong Bong Firecracker (5.7+) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: Yeah, that belongs to Lindsey.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Keel : Inertia Creeps (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: The first half of this route is technical slabbing.
The second half is a lot of fun.
Wise for the belayer to wear a helmet.
Found supplemental gear not needed. Slung the shrub at the end of the slab, otherwise, all bolts.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Plumb Line Gully : Zot (5.11d R)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the great history and comments, Tim! We just TRed it and were shut down multiple times. It has some really unique movement.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : First Eleven (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: Too bad the rock quality isn't better. The moves are fun but it's all kitty litter.

Getting down requires a little bit of creativity.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tingey's Torture (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: A single rack of a blue alien to a BD #3 with a selection of mid size nuts and lots of alpine draws will get the confident leader to the summit.

We did it in 6 pitches with a 70m:
P1-P3
P4
P5-P6
P7
P8-P9
P10

Rap down and right to the top of The Flakes and then take the standard descent from there. 4 raps total. A 70m is required!!!


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