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Member Since: Nov 4, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Stephen Bittner

Point Rank: # 2,436
Total Points: 325

4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Stephen Bittner been climbing?


All 195 | Routes 1 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 63 | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts 30 | Stars 85 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > **Phoenix Areas > Pinnacle Peak > Y-Crack Boulder > Send it (5.10a)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Dec 26, 2017

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Comments: Calling the gear great in this thing is a stretch. The upper crack is actively in the process of crumbling. I didn't want to test the pieces, even if the placements were bomber, the rock certainly wasn't. Take care placing gear here, keep everything tight and watch for the broken blocky stuff. No need for a micro nut. a single set of cams from .2 - .75 is more than enough, if the rock holds.

Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > The Homestead > Bone Town > Crynoid Arete (5.11d)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Dec 25, 2017

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Comments: Unless some holds have recently broken, this thing is not 11d and certainly not 11b as the previous commenter stated. My partner and I were on-sighting 11s throughout the day and neither of us could even do the moves to the first decent crimp above the first bolt. Also, there are only 5 bolts.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Near Trapps > c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... > By the Toe, direct start (5.9+)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: If the climb were cleaned and had a more inspiring anchor, it would be quite good. Solid climbing throughout. First crux is low with small gear that is hard to place/evaluate. PG-13 for the onsight.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Near Trapps > d. Harvest Moon to the End > King of P (5.3)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Jun 16, 2017

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Comments: Great route for a first time leader and an aesthetic rarity @ 5.3. Gear can be had throughout.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Near Trapps > d. Harvest Moon to the End > Akidlleativytoowouldn'tyou (5.7+)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Jun 16, 2017

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Comments: I agree with gblauer about the grade. My partner and I both felt this was a bit sandbagged (even @ 5'10"). I supposed 7+ makes sense then, if you consider p3 of Thin Slabs 7+. The gear is there when you need it for sure, but unless you're comfy on harder grades you're going to be a little stunned at the crux.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Near Trapps > d. Harvest Moon to the End > Strange Customs (5.11d R)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Jun 14, 2017

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Comments: I top roped this after climbing Main Line, not knowing anything about it. I found that the first 30 feet or so contained absolutely incredible climbing. The moves are unlike anything else in the area- the crux is a few very technical moves from a huge suuuuper cool undercling to tiny balancey feet and hands.

If the climbing after 30 feet were more consistent with the bottom this thing would be a classic, but it backs way off. That being said i think its definitely worthy of a lap on TR after c... more >>

Location: New York > Adirondacks > * Adirondack Ice & Mixed > D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... > Chapel Pond Canyon > Haggis and Cold Toast (WI3+)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Jan 15, 2015

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Comments: Definitely read Simon's comment if considering this route and you aren't comfortable at higher grades. The protection for the majority of the lower crux section was less than ideal, as the ice was full of air pockets. However, you can get a solid cam at a good rest if you look for it. The upper section is much easier but still no joke if you were to be pumped from the bottom portion. I found a nut placement up there as well.

I uploaded a photo to show what the crux section can look like. The o... more >>

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > d. Strictly - Shockley's > Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: First and second pitch are nothing special. The 3rd pitch is super fun. If you want a 4 star climb, link the Oscar corner to Strictley roof, and then continue on to Shockley's 3rd Pitch. The 4 stars here is for the 3rd pitch alone.

Location: West Virginia > Seneca Rocks > South Peak - East Face > Southeast Corner > A Touch Too Much (5.10+)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: Had the pleasure of climbing this with the first ascensionists the day after it was completed. Sweet route. Harder than what I normally climb so I can't honestly give it a grade, but 10+ sounds about right to me. Very cool moves through the lower half lead to some thin face climbing higher up. Definitely a worthwhile climb if your into mixed bolt/gear routes.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left > Easy Keyhole (5.3)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Do not climb if you are not comfortable pulling 5.4 moves off the deck with serious ankle breaking potential in the event of a fall. Blocky ledges below would not allow for a soft landing. I really do not recommend this for anyone who isn't comfortable leading at least 5.4.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth > Snake (5.6 PG13)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: I thought this climb was pretty awesome. Make sure you go left at the tree and don't place anything to the right after you pass it. Felt like I was dragging a Volkswagen up with me through the crux. Also, people, keep checking those pins! I clipped one on this route only to have it pull out when I gave the draw a little tug.

Location: New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge > Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... > Fun House (5.7)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: If you like climbing perfect hand crack pitch 2 will throw a big smile on your face.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the Arch > Sixish (5.5)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: For those worried about the P3 traverse, before committing into it you can get a shallow but decent .75 slotted in the horizontal where your feet end up traversing. It is a very reachy placement but would protect you almost entirely from the swing. Once under the notch there are bomber nuts to be had.

P2 may be my new favorite pitch of 5.4 in the gunks.

Location: New Hampshire > WM: Pinkham / Presidentials > Huntington Ravine > Northeast Ridge of the Pinn... (5.7)
By: Stephen Bittner When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: Does anybody know the rating if you follow the ramp all the way right from the pitch 3 belay to a few pins, up to a small ledge, step left and move up the face to a corner with some old webbing and cord threaded through a pinch? It felt..... strenuous. Seemed like a variation worth mentioning, as it provided great exposure and very interesting moves.

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