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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Charles Vernon

Point Rank: # 255
Total Points: 2,581

23 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 2049 | Routes 147 | Areas 26 | Approach Trails | Photos 143 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 360 | Posts 390 | Stars 868 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 7, 2017

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Comments: I'll fix the description. I first led this many years ago (late '90s?) when I was a 5.9/10- leader. I stemmed the outside of the crack, placed a piece of small gear every 20 feet or so (you really have to look around, and you have to be stemming the crack, not squeezing into it) and felt okay with it, but yeah, you're still looking at 50 foot falls with near-certain injury. So, you're right that "adequate" is not the right word.

I went back and led it again years later... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 6, 2017

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Comments: Anyone know if you can get down the gully that forms the first half of the Love Route with one 70m rope? I seem to remember a lot of fixed anchors when I climbed the route about 15 years ago, but my memory is a little fuzzy.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Mirror Image (5.10)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 22, 2017

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Comments: JMo, unlike you and me, Greg learned to place gear right here in SoAZ, rather than on the friendly cracks of NoAZ or Colorado. So he is very much, as you say, a true "Lemmon climber." I've climbed with him enough to know that he's so good with gear (and such great 'hang-on'), and has climbed so little in areas where the gear is actually good, that it's probably hard for him to imagine that someone else wouldn't optimize the placements on a route like Mi... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ides of Middlemarch (5.10a)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 6, 2017

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Comments: To add to the debate about the original last pitch: I noticed the blocks wedged in the upper crack, but it is easy to climb around them without touching them. There is also a lot of friable rock at the beginning of the pitch, but no distinct large/loose block--maybe it's gone. A careful leader should be okay on this pitch, both in terms of his/her own safety, and those below. (Also, this pitch, while burly for the grade, is really more of a hand crack in the back of a flare t... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : Diagonemesis (5.10d)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 10, 2017

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Comments: That's cool to hear from someone else who has climbed this other than Jeff!

On the first pitch I stepped up onto the first foothold of the route and it promptly blew, sending me sprawling backward onto my belayer in a cloud of dried leaves and dirt. Then, high up I found myself 15 or 20 feet out from a bolt on 5.9 climbing, I saw a beautiful chickenhead and scampered toward it, only to have it come off in my hand when I grabbed it. Narrowly avoided the big cheese-grating whi... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : The Bullet : Lock and Load (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 8, 2017

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Comments: Look at all the traffic this thing is getting! The Bullet is the new Sheepshead!


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 23, 2016

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Comments: Definitely don't need 4WD, but a bit of clearance is nice--nothing too crazy.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *The Homestead
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 30, 2016

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Comments: Amy, I have an 11 month old daughter that we've taken along climbing lots of times on Mt. Lemmon and Cochise. I am pretty paranoid about rockfall and bees in particular, and have a working list of good spots near Tucson. I wouldn't take her anywhere near the Homestead. I made a list for Mt. Lemmon in this post... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Santa Rita Mountains : Elephant Head : Rocktology (5.10+ R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Mike, if you have any pics from the FA of this route, I would love to see 'em!


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Was there a bail biner on the second bolt? I bailed off this years ago, would be telling if the biner was still there!


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Rotissima Bueno (5.11)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: Despite what Steiger's topo shows, I think the place he is talking about in his description is actually about 15-20 feet above the pin, where the thin crack in the corner opens up enough to take a .75 camalot. When we tried the route last summer, I saw the first place to step out just above the pin, but kept lie-backing up the corner to the .75 pod. I thought it was about 11- from the pin to the pod. From the pod on, though, the corner seemed virtually impossible. I couldn&@P... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Reefer Madness (5.10- R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: I attempted this climb again recently, and the second pitch seemed like it has become looser. The door-sized flake was just as I remembered it (i.e., pretty terrifying), but not any worse. However, there is a flake wedged in the main crack which I used to jam and place pro behind which now seems to have partially broken off and is visibly loose. Maybe due to freeze-thaw action? It makes this section scarier and more committing, and I ended up backing off.

It's certainly pos... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : The Havens
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks everyone for the thoughts. Didn't mean to stir up such a controversy! The majority opinion drawn from MP, facebook, and real life seems to be that there's not much shade and it's not super baby or kid friendly. But there were some dissenting voices :)

And don't worry, I am not going to post this question on every crag on the mountain, as I have been to most of the likely candidates...just had never been here for whatever reason.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : The Havens
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Jbak. Any thoughts on bringing the kiddo?


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : The Havens
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: From the description, it sounds like maybe you can chase shade here as there are routes on both the east and west aspects, is that right? Also, would folks describe this as a kid (baby in my case) friendly crag? Mostly looking for level staging areas out of the line of any rockfall from the climbs. Thanks!


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Unknown (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: Worthwhile, although the tree is a bit annoying, which knocks off a star for me. Good gear, but I thought it was more like 5.9 if you don't use the tree. I merged with the 9+ sport route to the left and found that there were still good gear placements all the way to the chains.

Note that this isn't listed in SQLIII.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Wall of the Trundling Troll...
By: Charles Vernon When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: You can hike the drainage directly down from Rose Canyon Lake to where it hits the main drainage just below the Troll Wall. I thought this was fun, and maybe more direct, but it doesn't save any time and may have involved some bushwacking in places.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Warpaint (5.10c PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: Read the comments above.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : The Down Under
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 4, 2016

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Comments: Several people mention rotten rock and wearing helmets, but Ms. LaTufa says it's a kid-friendly crag. I'm in the market for kid-friendly, but loose rock coming off the cliff doesn't seem compatible with that. Is there a place you can set the kid up (accompanied by watchful adult) reasonably near the cliff, but away from the line of fire? My daughter is 2 months, so not going to walk or crawl away anywhere, but my greatest fear is having her beaned by rockfall (2nd greatest is bees).


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Few Species (5.10)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: I've led both the original (twice!), and "variation #2," and Scott is right that the latter is definitely better. However, I've found that it's easy to get sucked into the original, because the climbing and pro is a bit more obvious in the undercling out right. If you end up doing this, it's still very worthwhile, but I would recommend just using the anchor out right instead of cutting back left. You might feel like a bit of a chump for going 'off route', but the rope drag after coming out... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Petty Theft (5.6)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: It's about 5.5 or 5.6, a fun crack/chimney with loads of big supplemental edges and ledges. Protects well aside from the finishing chimney, bring a couple #3 camalots if you want to really sew it up. There is gear in the final chimney too, but it's not as obvious.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Born of Water (5.10c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: Sounds like I'itoi still managed to have a little fun with you guys :)


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon : Kor Wall (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments: The Backcountry Guide describes the direct "Blind Ambition" finish to this route. We did it on a whim and thought it was awesome--the best part of the route. I haven't done the regular finish to compare, but Blind Ambition has some serious exposure and exciting (but moderate) climbing.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: It should be noted that you can easily approach all the west face routes from the east, if you want. Once you hit the SE Arete from the east, it is only about 10-15 minutes more to the area where most of the west face routes start. The advantages of this approach are (1) you don't need to get a permit ahead of time; (2) you pass the spring; and (3) you get to traverse the most spectacular part of Lion's Ledge, directly under the overhanging east face. The disadvantages (depen... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Sun Baked (No Longer Exists... (5.10c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: Does this make Canada Eric the Cassandra of Southern Arizona??


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