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Member Since: Jan 3, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact cdec

Point Rank: # 3,198
Total Points: 175

7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has cdec been climbing?










Contributions


All 656 | Routes 11 | Areas | Photos 68 | Page Improvements | Comments 56 | Posts 443 | Stars 64 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate Condos : Detoured (5.10a)
By: cdec When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: We called this detoured for two reasons. First, we cleaned it 2 summers ago but never got back to bolt it. Second, the original line had two key holds snapped off so we changed the line a bit bottom to top to keep the climbing consistent.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate Condos
By: cdec When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: There are now 4 bolted routes on this wall only a stones throw from the parking lot directly across from the, Green, Hellgate Condos.

The Rock is a very good mix of quartzite and Limestone. In addition to bolting the 2 new routes Greg and Luke's routes have been cleaned up and all 4 are very fun.

The routes from left to right are actually Driver's Ed, Red Devil, Road Rage and Detoured.


Location: Wyoming : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
By: cdec When: Jan 13, 2013

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Comments: For those looking for a place to stay try the Big Bear Motel.
In Cody 1/4 from the turn off for the South Fork road.
1/13 we paid $47 a night for a 2 queen room. Clean and comfortable with table, fridge, micro and plenty of space to dry out gear.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Raspberry Ripple (5.10a)
By: cdec When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Fun route, it should get done more often. The guide says the bolts are weirdly placed. Not so much weirdly as just a bit on the reachy side. I am 5' 9 and I couldn't really clip off the obvious good holds. Just made it a bit heady. If your 6' no problem.
Thin climbing after the last bolt leads to jugs, good gear and the top.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : Big Willow Cirque : Giggles (5.8)
By: cdec When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Didn't Giggle either. Just didn't really like it.
Pitch 1 was short, easy and uninteresting.
Pitch 2 was dirty loose and and finishes in a tree.
The hand crack is cool but too short, about 15 feet of climbing.
As far as the rest goes picking a crack and going that is a bit misleading. They are all flaring, full of veg and hiding loose rock. You need to pick the best of the worst that might offer some pro at a place that you can barely see from where you are standing.

Go to Bells or Lone Peak Ci... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : cTr (5.10b)
By: cdec When: Sep 20, 2012

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Comments: For the grade and style one of the best in the Canyon. Has cleaned up really well. Nothing left but solid rock and good times.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : Dark West Face : The Journey Home (5.8)
By: cdec When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Check out the Beta Photo of the wall on the main page. Helpful in figuring out which route is which. All the routes except The Fools Progress have shiny bolts.

Started on Katchina which works well. Great rock climbing, go do it.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : Photo
By: cdec When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: YEAH STEVIE!!! Way to go.
Started off on Katchina and linked into The Journey Home. Having only the description for Journey with us we saw bolts up hill and hiked right by Journey, orange tape on the first bolt and all.
We started up Katchina by accident, a great way to start though. Kept thinking it felt hard for 5.8. Joined up with Journey right off the anchor!
Super fun climbing on great rock all the way to the top. You guys did a great job cleaning. Can't wait to climb the fools progress a... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : I Ran To Afghanistan (5.6)
By: cdec When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: I was wondering if we really want to be clearing swaths of moss from cliffs that are so clearly visible.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : I Ran To Afghanistan (5.6)
By: cdec When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: For that matter lowering off a 70m is a possibility. My brand new petzl 9.4 70's ends didn't touch the ground. With a climber tied in for a lower and the belayer back a few feet the end will easily go through. I had read the description and made a point to put a blocking knot at the very end of the belay side. It came tight to the Gri Gri before I was standing.

Needs a power wash.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Upper Reef : She Sells Sea Shells (5.10-)
By: cdec When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Not on Rocket Reef. Much farther up the Canyon.
See photo.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Rocket Reef : Riding the Rocket (5.8 PG13)
By: cdec When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Shares final bolts with Pocket Rocket.
Rap same as Pocket Rocket.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Rocket Reef : Pocket Rocket (5.8 PG13)
By: cdec When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Route has cleaned up well and is very good stone now.
Of the two routes on the right side of the Rocket Reef this is the one on the left. It DOES NOT have glue ins. That is Riding the Rocket.

You DO NOT NEED A 70 to Rap. You DO NOT need to make two raps. Just rap from the anchor to the ground climbers right of the formation (maybe 60')and walk back to packs on good trail.

Run out up high can be avoided by clipping, with a LONG runner, a bolt to climbers right.




Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Rocket Reef : Rocket Science (5.8)
By: cdec When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Route starts 5.8ish and then moves left past bolts 2 and 3 on pure friction which seemed much harder than 5.8 on both on lead and TR. The climbing at and past 4th bolt is 5.8 again.

If you skip the 2nd bolt and continue straight to 3rd the route is R but consistent at the 5.8 grade.

Seemed silly to take it out left.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Upper Reef : Mocha Salsa (5.10-)
By: cdec When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Don't know what or where Mocha Salsa is.
This is most likely a duplicate description of Rocket Science.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Rocket Reef
By: cdec When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: The difficulty of the approach is overstated. 20 to 25 minutes on a good trail to the Reef. Another 3-5 minutes to the Rocket Reef.
You can rap Pocket Rocket and Riding the Rocket with a 60. Rap climbers right to the dirt on the side of the formation and walk down 70 feet on a good trail to packs. Not a great top rope.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Maybird East Side : Feline Stall Tactics (5.8)
By: cdec When: Jul 30, 2011

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Comments: I was excited to get on this route after seeing the comparison to the Zion Curtain. About the only thing similar is that both pitches are rock. Comparing the two pitches is a crime. One is beautiful, long, exposed and clean. The other is this.

Saying that this thing wouldn't remain the same at the gate is being as delicate as one should be climbing the "flakes". Easy enough but frightful. At some point something big is coming down.

Feline stall tactics:
Easy corner to a single hand jam. Cont... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Static Wall : The Leisure Route (5.8)
By: cdec When: Jul 23, 2011

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Comments: Stevie,
Good point about the traverse. Thanks for the doing it.

Get out and climb this thing.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Little Tufa's (5.10)
By: cdec When: Jul 23, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this in the spring of 2009 when we did Brown Banana. Thought it was worth a bit of cleaning and some bolts, wasn't sure though.
Have heard good things. Thanks for putting in the time and money.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Static Wall : The Leisure Route (5.8)
By: cdec When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: I climbed this for the second time today and it is really fun. I have to say that I am a bit confused by the way it was protected though. The first pitch is sparsely protected and certainly R which is fine. The climbing through the run-outs is easy enough.
What puzzles me is this. If the 1st pitch a nod to the old school, why is the second pitch is so well protected? 3 fixed pieces on easy ground before the roof, # 2 cam placement in the crack at the roof that you can still touch when clip... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Creekside Crag : Alien (5.10a R)
By: cdec When: Sep 13, 2010

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Comments: The route, as mentioned, now sports 5 closely spaced bolts. Still very fun. No longer even close to R.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : River Road : River Road Dihedrals : ker-THUD! (5.9)
By: cdec When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: Surprised to hear about run out. We thought it was pretty reasonable. Run out from the bolt to the crack or from the last piece to the chains? We wanted to add a reasonable moderate that would get climbed.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI4-5)
By: cdec When: Feb 24, 2010

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Comments: As of 2/24/10 the belay at the top of pitch 1 is only 1 smashed up bolt and hanger. Rockfall removed one bolt and wrecked the remaining one. The one that remains can be used but is sketchy. No way to back it up except a knifeblade or new bolt.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Brown Banana (5.9)
By: cdec When: May 18, 2009

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Comments: FA climbed just to the right of the bolt line up better quality rock. The bolts were placed to the left in hopes of keeping folks from straying too far to the right on to easier ground. Clips are from good stances and shouldn't be reachy.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI4-5)
By: cdec When: Feb 22, 2009

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Comments: Brian thanks for the photo and the comments. James and Michael thanks for the work. I'm sticking to what I said but do agree that the anchors are indeed safer and will help to open this route to a wider group. I'm no hardman and next go around I will indeed use them.

Enough about this, let's open up some of those other lines!!!





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