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Member Since: Jan 3, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact cdec

Point Rank: # 1,940
Total Points: 401
Last Year: 105
Last 30 Days: 15
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has cdec been climbing?










Contributions


All 592 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 50 | Page Improvements | Comments 51 | Posts 406 | Stars 61 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Itchy Scratchy (5.7)
By: cdec When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: John,
Funny thing about those 1/2 inchers. Bought some bolts and the company packed out 12mm instead of 3/8. They wouldn't fit in the 3/8 holes. We thought they were 1/2 inch so we re-drilled the holes and the 12mm bolts dropped right in. Like throwing a banana down a hallway.
After much head scratching we figured out that the bolts were 12mm and the holes 1/2 inch. So down we went and bought 1/2 bolts to fill the holes.

The bolts are hard to see and there aren'@SE... more >>


Location: Paul Wilhelmsen : Random pics and peaks : Photo
By: cdec When: Aug 30, 2016

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Comments: looking good Thomas


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Pounding the Frog (5.10b R)
By: cdec When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: This route was originally done in 1989 and has been missing bolts for several years. They were removed by another party with the intention of upgrading hardware but this took a long time to complete.

Best Route Ever crosses the original PTF anchor location so I elected to use a bolt from that route and an additional rap-ring anchor when I recently replaced the hardware. Please respect Kyle's route and leave the anchor as is.

Both can exist side by side.

Beyond that this climb is wickedly h... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Points West (5.10b)
By: cdec When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: This seems to be "smell of dead euro-peons".
The anchor between this and Lizard Skills was for Pounding the Frog an original Kyle Copeland route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : The Great White Icicle (WI3) : Photo
By: cdec When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: No! We were super lucky. We were off to the sides of the 1st pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Chalking Dead (5.9)
By: cdec When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: Indeed it is for the left facing corner on the far right.
The original bolt is still there and it protects getting to the roof.

I climbed Ziombie land, double tap and this on 8/15 and they are really fun and will only get better with more traffic.
Climb them!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12-) : Photo
By: cdec When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: Not Royal. Joe Herbst.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Portable Darkness (5.9+ PG13)
By: cdec When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: No need to bring any cams this a 6 pitch sport climb for sure. Most of the climb is bolted about body length. Never did I feel like I need to supplement the bolts and I am not bold.

Pitches 1-3 are clean and enjoyable. The upper 1/2 of pitch 4 is like climbing through a Jenga game. Rocks on rocks on almost any flat edge between the bolts, bordered by looseness and choss on both sides. It is possible to climb through this without knocking anything down but you really need to be heads up. Watch w... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Second East Face (5.7)
By: cdec When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: Re-rigged the rap stations at the tops of the 2nd and 3rd pitches today. Removed lots of old webbing and left new material on good anchors. Did a bit of cleaning as this route gets little traffic but deserves more. Great climbing on beautiful rock via a nearly continuous crack system.

As mentioned approach to above the base of the route and carefully cross scree pile to the wall. There is a large Pine tree a few feet uphill from the end of the traverse. Rack up here as the rappels deposit you ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Zombieland (5.7) : Photo
By: cdec When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: The start looks about about right head to the crack for gear. At the top of the crack we went straight up towards the bolt, not to the right the way the flake goes. There is a horizontal in the face that takes gear and than a cam goes in below the bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond
By: cdec When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: This wall is a great addition to the Wasatch. Positive holds of all sizes on clean quartzite make for really fun climbing. Stevie and friends put in a lot of effort cleaning and equipping the routes. Honor their efforts and climb these routes. They need traffic to keep clean.
The hike is accurate as described. Once into the drainage (skiers may know it as the generator couloir) just keep going until you see a rock ridge and the surveyors tape. The trails to and from the main drainage are good, ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : Dark West Face : The Fools Progress (5.10a)
By: cdec When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: Super fun. No rack required for the 2 pitches, well protected with bolts and pins. If you finish up on the last pitch of Journey bring a BD .5 and .75 and the whole route is well protected.
Recommend going to the top for and excellent 3 pitch outing.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Mad Calf Disease (5.11b/c)
By: cdec When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this the way John described and it is fantastic.
We belayed at the top of Firefly. Second pitch as described traversing to the right until you are under the 2 bolt slab finishing at the anchor directly under the roof and crux pitch above.
Place a bd .4 just above the roof and then it's on to some of the best climbing in BCC. Neither the crack on the left or the arête on the right need be used. Thin, bouldery and positive the face is a puzzle to be solved. Once you get to the ledge the... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Creekside Crag : Chutes and Ladders (5.11a R)
By: cdec When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: Garret c climbed the retro bolted Raisin Bran not Chutes and Ladders.
Chutes and Ladders has, so far, been spared a retro job.
There is a 3rd route, which is not listed, to the right of Raisin Bran. 5.7ish.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Voodoo Goat (5.9)
By: cdec When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Another route that deserves traffic. Really interesting climbing low down through a scoop with a crack in the back.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Hell Holes (5.8+)
By: cdec When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: The route has cleaned up nicely and is really good. Long and sustained at the grade.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Brighton's Frighton Wall : The Wedge (5.10a)
By: cdec When: Jul 3, 2013

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Comments: Super short. Maybe 18'


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Battalion of Saints Wall
By: cdec When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: Put a watch on it. 6 minutes car to base. One of us was in flip flops.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Wisky Bench (5.9)
By: cdec When: Jun 18, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this in 2012 and again on 6/18/13 and thought it had clean up very nicely. Didn't find anything troubling at all. We were remarking how good we thought it was and was surprised to see the comments when I logged in to give it some stars.
Soft at 10a but long and good. Do it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate Condos : Red Devil (5.8-)
By: cdec When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Mr. Garrett once said "more cleaning = more stars" we cleaned and gave it more. Fun for what it is.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate Condos : Detoured (5.10a)
By: cdec When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: We called this detoured for two reasons. First, we cleaned it 2 summers ago but never got back to bolt it. Second, the original line had two key holds snapped off so we changed the line a bit bottom to top to keep the climbing consistent.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate Condos
By: cdec When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: There are now 4 bolted routes on this wall only a stones throw from the parking lot directly across from the, Green, Hellgate Condos.

The Rock is a very good mix of quartzite and Limestone. In addition to bolting the 2 new routes Greg and Luke's routes have been cleaned up and all 4 are very fun.

The routes from left to right are actually Driver's Ed, Red Devil, Road Rage and Detoured.


Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
By: cdec When: Jan 13, 2013

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Comments: For those looking for a place to stay try the Big Bear Motel.
In Cody 1/4 from the turn off for the South Fork road.
1/13 we paid $47 a night for a 2 queen room. Clean and comfortable with table, fridge, micro and plenty of space to dry out gear.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Raspberry Ripple (5.10a)
By: cdec When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Fun route, it should get done more often. The guide says the bolts are weirdly placed. Not so much weirdly as just a bit on the reachy side. I am 5' 9 and I couldn't really clip off the obvious good holds. Just made it a bit heady. If your 6' no problem.
Thin climbing after the last bolt leads to jugs, good gear and the top.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : Big Willow Cirque : Giggles (5.8)
By: cdec When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Didn't Giggle either. Just didn't really like it.
Pitch 1 was short, easy and uninteresting.
Pitch 2 was dirty loose and and finishes in a tree.
The hand crack is cool but too short, about 15 feet of climbing.
As far as the rest goes picking a crack and going that is a bit misleading. They are all flaring, full of veg and hiding loose rock. You need to pick the best of the worst that might offer some pro at a place that you can barely see from where you are standing.

Go to Bells or Lone Peak Ci... more >>


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