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Member Since: Sep 16, 2007
Last Visit: Jun 4, 2017
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Point Rank: # 25,175
Total Points: 5

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Buzz Burrell been climbing?


All 24 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 7 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Lower East Face > Alexander's Chimney (5.5)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: This is an odd route. Very historical, an excellent line on a beautiful and popular face - and yet uncommonly done. Why? I had soloed it onsite a couple decades ago, could hardly remember it, so went up to re-aquaint myself, this time with a partner and gear. A good addition.

The Chimney is low angle with large holds, but the holds are either flowing with cold water or covered in ice. What would be an enjoyable scramble is instead sketchy or aggravating. After that, it's a romp - in the sun... more >>

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > North Face/Ridge > Keyhole Ridge (5.6)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Jul 26, 2015

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Yesterday I went up Keyhole Ridge, down Stepladder, then up Gorrell's Traverse for one of the longer and more spectacular moderate routes in the Rockies. It's all at a fairly consistent grade, the rock is excellent, and the link-up is quite logical.
Highly recommended!

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Indian Peaks > Mount Toll > North Ridge (5.6 R)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Jul 18, 2015

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Comments: Did this route today for probably the 8th time over the past 25 years. The description has always seemed remarkably wrong, so finally decided to describe my experience.

The skyline ridge seen from below is NOT the route. It should be, as that is the true north ridge connecting to the Continental Divide, but it's harder and somehow got a 'bomb' rating, so no one does it. Instead, the North Ridge route is slightly off to the west side and only once touches any kind of ridge.

It's basically 4th c... more >>

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Upper East Face > The Beaver (5.5)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: A solo onsight downclimb of the Palisades can be "very exciting" indeed. Here's what I did (before discovering the route had a name and the route description above):

  • Start down the first (not second) notch when viewed from above.
  • Start down its south side (it has two halves).
  • Downclimb an honest jam crack, then switch to the easier crack 8' to the left (facing down).
  • Continue down on easier, broken slabs.
  • At some hard-to-describe point, like halfway down, or when you can't go any fur...
 more >>

Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... > Kiener's Route (5.4 Easy Snow)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: I've done Kiener's a dozen times, and just read the description for the first time - here's a few clarifications and ideas:

  • Every year there is a one month window when it's really good: after B'way has melted enough so you can walk around the snow, but before Lamb's Slide has melted down to ice. Early July is usually excellent.
  • Lamb's Slide is commonly skied, so I wouldn't get too worked up about it - there's no reason to rope up let alone place pro.
  • I've often scrambled up Glacier Ridge...
 more >>

Location: Wyoming > Grand Teton National Park > Mount Moran > CMC Route (5.5)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Mar 5, 2011

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Comments: Love this route; done it twice, both solo IAD.

Unless I've really been messing up - which is possible - the route description has a problem: "(the descent) is only fourth-class downclimbing and does not require rappelling;" Since the route is 5.5, and the descent is the same route, something isn't right here.

Hardest section is probably downclimbing Drizzlepuss while on the way up. There's opportunity for massive scrambling on quality rock here; I once traversed over to the East Horn, did th... more >>

Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > West Stronghold > Sheepshead Area (Southwest) > ... > Absinthe of Mallet (5.10-)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Mar 26, 2010

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Comments: Started hard and stayed hard, bottom to top; experts at steep friction would feel otherwise. A full selection of BD C3's really helps.

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Spearhead > North Ridge (5.6)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: Bill Wright and I did this on 7/25. We then continued up and onto the North Ridge of Chiefshead. This is a very obvious link-up; we were shocked there is no mention of it anywhere. Spearhead is essentially a protuberance of the Chiefshead North Ridge, so once you get all the way up there, you might as well keep going. "Spearchief".

Chiefshead N Ridge is broken up by talus slopes, but the headwalls turn out to have excellent climbing. The lack of continuous 5th class rock may bother some, b... more >>

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Hallett Peak > Better than Love (5.8 R)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Jul 26, 2008

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Comments: I have no insights; here is a quick TR to make planning easier for others.

7:00 am Friday 7/25/08 - Left Bear Lake Parking. The Shuttle starts running at 7:00 am, they never close the road to cars, but the lot fills on weekends by 9 am. Hike up trail, go around Emerald Lake on left onto pretty good climber path to base.
8:30 - Started up route. The start is to the left of Love and C-B (unlike route description above). P2 is excellent (all foot stems). Routefinding is easy to the top of the... more >>

Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Lady Mountain
By: Buzz Burrell When: Jun 14, 2008

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Comments: The was a trail constructed in 1923 to take guests from Zion Lodge to the top of Lady Mountain. A very ambitious route, it was abandoned by the Park Service in the 60's, which means it now is a great scramble route! Best done when it's cool or even drizzly, a rope is not needed, a handline might help, and you have to navigate and look carefully to follow remnants of the trail. It's worth it.

Route description (excellent canyoneering site) here:

I went f... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Jun 14, 2008

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Comments: If one had those two roofs dialed, 5.8+ might seem right, but onsite I'm willing to say those roofs are niners. The commitment factor of those moves, and the continuous steepness elsewhere, make this a remarkable route. Doubling up on 1" and 2" would really help on P1, and plenty of small stuff for P2.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Cob Rock > Huston Crack (5.9)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Jun 14, 2008

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Comments: This is a classic, in part because of the great crack, but also because of the rating! If this were done today, it would be listed at 5.9. Back then, 5.10 was the hardest there was, so if you could climb it at all they gave it a 5.9, and if you did it first try it was listed at 5.8.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > The Dome > East Slab (5.6)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Apr 15, 2008

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Comments: I've soloed this route about 20 times so hopefully I know what I'm doing, and Cleve McCarty taught me to climb so I'm more old school than anyone here except George, and this route is solid 5.6. A short person unable to reach one of the solution pockets would have to hand jamb the crack and call it 5.7. Excellent route.

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock
By: Buzz Burrell When: Feb 22, 2008

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Comments: Pfiffner Traverse - LA Freeway. I just saw the query/post from '03. I did Long's Peak to Arapaho, all on the divide, on July 8 & 9, 2002. I named it the "LA Freeway". ("Longs" to "Arapaho", and because it's not much of a freeway; there's some stout sections in there). I did it fairly casually, 16 hrs both days, car - car. Very highly recommended.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > Anthill Direct (5.9- R)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Oct 8, 2007

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Comments: Like everyone else says, doing the Touch & Go start creates a very solid route. Here's what we did:
P1 T n G - Even tho I've done this a lot, it somehow remains hard and was definitely the crux of the climb for me.
P2 - Keep the belay at the bolts, walk across the huge ledge and start up the wall heading for a vertical crack. Routefinding is easier and there's pro on this pitch. The roof seems like 5.7 not 8. 2 pins in vertical crack above a small but comfortable ledge for belay.
P3 - Quite ... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Shirt Tail Peak > Gambit (5.8)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Sep 16, 2007

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Comments: This is a remarkably popluar climb on weekends! Start it just above the Fir tree bent around a bulge in base of cliff.

The guidebooks seemed confusing, so did this in 3 perfect pitches, which were natural and logical. P1 is mostly a scramble, up to a massive flat ledge. P2 is continuous, a series of bulges that are awkwardly fun, and finishes on a very large flat ledge. P3 clips an old pin (looked fine to me), traverses onto the face to the right, then romps up a single steepish continuous ... more >>

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