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Member Since: Feb 10, 2006
Last Visit: Aug 4, 2007
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Buzz Burrell been climbing?


All 6 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 5 | Posts 1 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments


Location: California > High Sierra > 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... > Mt. Whitney > East Buttress (5.7)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Aug 5, 2007

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Comments: Did this today; not what I expected. It was 4th class, with four 25' sections of 5th class. Long way to haul a rope for that. Good rock though, and great scenary and position.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > Ruper (5.8+)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Jul 14, 2007

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Comments: Just did Ruper again. Was stunned at how nice it is.

P1&2: Needing to make a pass at the start (Ruper is busy), we zig-zagged right, left, right on easy ledges (skipped pro), then up Ruper Crack to the belay bolts with rope to spare. The Crack is great, and I think is the exact same difficulty as the Bastille Crack (which is rated 7). I used an OK #3 at the bottom (too lazy to carry a #4).
P3: Dang, that traverse is remarkable!
P4: This seemed like the crux today, wandering up continuously... more >>

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Petit Grepon > South Face (5.8)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Jul 4, 2007

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Comments: The Descent description is confusing; here's hopefully a clarification.

Option 1: Rap the South Face. Need 2 ropes. Rapping this route seems strange to me, but whatever.
Option 2: Rap into the East Gully. I think this is what most people still do. With one rope: R1 - 60'-100' off summit onto flat but really exposed knife edge. Scramble 10' further north to another anchor (2 rusty pins backed by horn; nothing equalized). R2: 60' down to major ledge. Walk 50' north to anchors at top of Ea... more >>

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Sundance Buttress > Grapevine (5.8+)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Jul 2, 2007

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Comments: The route description here on MP is much better than in the book. Here's how we saw it:
P1: Thought that nice finger crack off the ground might be the hardest climbing on the route. Then much easier up to rap station.
P2: The squeeze chimney was surprising. It is 5.6, but a thrash if you have shoes, bottle, etc clipped to harness. Gear slings instead of harness rack would be helpful. Pass the rap anchor at the top of this, and continue 40' up left to nice flat perch right on on the corner.... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Elephant Buttresses > Third Buttress > Monster Woman (5.9)
By: Buzz Burrell When: Jun 14, 2007

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Comments: This is a really fun, short route with lots of possibilities. Knowing the sequence really helps - I'm a very average climber and free solo it with no sweat - no way it's 5.9.

On the opening overhang traverse, one can either hang there forever wearing out your arms, or stem high with your feet, make one small positioning move so you can reach the sharp undercling/horn on your left, match it right hand while your feet aren't doing anything, then reach high left around the corner for the secret j... more >>

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