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Member Since: Apr 22, 2011
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Mr. Stevens

Point Rank: # 1,254
Total Points: 560

44 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mr. Stevens been climbing?










Contributions


All 777 | Routes 20 | Areas 1 | Photos 88 | Page Improvements | Comments 97 | Posts 75 | Stars 275 | Ratings 221
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Panorama : Super Carpe Diem (5.12c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: 17 draws for the whole route by my count, 3 of which were long, alpine style ones. Incredible route, the "tufa bench" rest is otherworldly. Get there early to beat the mobs that gang-bang the normal Carpe Diem all day...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon : Left Hand Fork : ... : Patsy (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 30, 2017

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Comments: Really good route. The bottom dihedral is nothing to write home about, but the upper head wall is awesome!! Not sure about this being a good warm up as mentioned in the description. Just getting off the ground is really thin and tweaky, then there's a few bigger holds, but the upper head wall is lots of crimping, with some really devious sequences thrown in.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon : Left Hand Fork : ... : Sans Nom (5.12d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 30, 2017

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Comments: I replaced the fixed 'biner on the long chain with a nice, new one. The current one was looking and feeling pretty manky. Incredible route, but way hard for the grade. Everyone knows Colorado grades are soft, but if this is 12d, then every 12d I've ever been on needs to be bumped down 2-3 letter grades...


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : 51 (Scoops) (5.12c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 30, 2017

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Comments: Incredible route. I couldn't find the kneebar at the 3rd scoop, despite several people telling me it was 'locker' and they were able to go no hands. I think it's 12c if you can get that kneebar, but closing in on 12d if you can't...


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Vampire (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 29, 2017

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Comments: Linking p3+4 is very reasonable. Amazing route, like climbing on a giant potato chip.


Location: Nevada : Mount Charleston : The Ice House : Satellite (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 29, 2017

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Comments: Super good route. Definitely worth the hike just for this. I thought the crux was making the move from the roof PAST the first bolt. Getting to the roof wasn't that bad...

The upper part of this route SEEPS in the spring/early summer (i.e. full on waterfall near the anchors). But it's all jugs at that point, so it's actually pretty fun with the water spraying all over you.


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Box Canyon : The Impact Zone Wall : Lucky Boy (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 29, 2017

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Comments: Great route, felt much easier than Towing Jehovah, but maybe not as good. Definitely more technical.


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Box Canyon : EFS Wall : Dancing with Rednecks (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 29, 2017

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Comments: Great route, deserves more attention. V5 boulder problem to 5.10 jug hauling to a 5.11'ish move towards the top. Make sure your shoulders are warmed up for the bottom...


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Chia Pet (5.12a/b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 31, 2017

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Comments: Every bolt on this is a spinner and/or pulled slightly out of the wall and/or rusted...great route, though.


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: This is an amazing route. Anyone bad-mouthing this thing needs to find another hobby ;-)

The alternative start is amazing, but there is a loose death block on the first pitch at the small roof (maybe 20' off the belay, assuming we started from the right spot?). If it comes out, it's coming down on your belayer. I trundled a loose block just next to it but didn't want to try for the bigger one. Use caution.

Mid-May, the bottom of the route actually goes into the shade just after 12... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Hands of Destiny (5.12d) : Photo
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 8, 2017

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Comments: This picture is actually a mirror image! This is the start of the crux....


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Der Letzte Zug (5.12c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: After doing this route last spring and then doing lots of other similarly graded routes over the past year, I agree that this is a total sandbag at 12c. Compared to something like Hands of Destiny, which is a similar style, I would say this is definitely a letter grade harder than that.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The French Are Here (5.12c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 27, 2016

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Comments: I'm on the shorter side (5'7") with a negative ape index and didn't find any of the moves to be reachy. I toyed around with that small sidepull as mentioned above, but in the end, I didn't need it and wouldn't of even been able to use it as it's so bad. Heavy Weather at The Bank had bigger moves for me!

As for the grade, I don't know. It was... more >>


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : You Snooze, You Lose (5.11c/d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: What a great route! Techy laybacking to a pocketed bulge straight out of Wild Iris! If it weren't for the no-hands rest in the middle, the route would probably check in around 12a or 12b.


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Aspen Glade : The Aspen Glade : Lonely Are the Brave (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 18, 2016

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Comments: An entry for this route already exists here:

mountainproject.com/v/lonely-a...


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : I Am A Machine (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: This route deserves much more traffic. The upper headwall has some incredible pockets and great flow. The bottom 2-3 bolts is definitely throw away climbing and detracts a bit, but the upper part is completely worth it.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Gate Sector : Devil's Gate : Dammit Samet (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: This is a great route but is suffering from a lot of flaky rock - many of which are crucial holds. This will obviously clean up with traffic, but the route may certainly get more difficult....

My first trip up the route I really didn't like it, and it felt really hard, but after sussing out the moves, I really enjoyed it my second time up. 12b seems fair once you've got the moves down, as there seemed to be some very hidden holds that made sequences way e... more >>


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : ... : Photo
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: Killer as in "dude, that's killer!" or as in the flake will fall off and kill you?

I guess it could be both in The Black....


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Childhood's End (5.12- R)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 3, 2016

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Comments: NOT funny!

Great route. I'd recommend not hauling....

The only gear that seemed mandatory was a green and yellow Alien, set of nuts, and a #3 and #4 Camalot. Although I guess gear is never "mandatory", right?

The only bad rock on the route is the 5.9 pitch right before the crux (I tore off some baseball sized pieces from a "jug") and the first half of the crux pitch. Other than that, I was super impr... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Aspen Glade : Gun Street Wall : Don't Paint Your Wagon (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: This is a great route. Multiple cruxes and fun, tricky movement. I liked this more than Butch Pocket and Gun Street Girl...


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Babies R' Us (5.12- PG13)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 28, 2016

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Comments: We unfortunately had to bail after the 3rd pitch due to frigid temps and deteriorating weather, but the first two pitches of this route are a masterpiece of rock climbing! Thoughtful and sustained slab/face with a healthy dose of spice!

The 1st pitch was listed as 11a on our topo and that seemed about right. The 12a crux on p2 is really thin but short and well-protected. It eases significantly afterwards but still keeps you on your toes (literally).

Expect to work a little harder way above you... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 14, 2016

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Comments: This is an amazing route and certainly a "magical mystery tour". All the gear beta is spot on, but I'm surprised I didn't see anything mentioned for protecting the flake after the first three (?) bolts on the crux pitch. A long sling (four footer) can be used to sling the very obvious hole. A large (#3 or #4 Camalot) could be used, I suppose, but that flake is thin and very vibrato! Getting from the bolt to the fla... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Drugs and Sex : Mater Hater (5.12-)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 3, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic route! The upper part is very Wild Iris! The left hand jug/flake that you use to pull up into the ramp/corner is a bit suspicious... thankfully you don't have to pull too hard, but exercise caution.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto : Wyoming Flower Child (5.11d) : Photo
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: I'm pretty sure that is Center El Shinto. WFC starts to the right, in a crack as well.


Location: South Dakota : Spearfish Canyon : The Dark Side : Dark Side Wall : Passover (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: Bolt #6 on this route is in bad shape. Sticking out ~1/4 inch, and quite rusty....

You may want to, dare I say, pass over this route for the time being...


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