REI Community


Member Since: Apr 22, 2011
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Mr. Stevens

Mr. Stevens
is a member of
Point Rank: # 713
Total Points: 1,135

50 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mr. Stevens been climbing?










Contributions


All 1063 | Routes 53 | Areas 2 | Approach Trails | Photos 115 | Page Improvements | Comments 122 | Posts 85 | Stars 394 | Ratings 292
Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Road > Cactus Cliff > Under A Blood Red Wall (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jan 4, 2018

view comment >>
Comments: I'm going to make the audacious claim that this is one of the best 12s at Shelf. The rock quality is fabulous and on-par with the good stuff at Ten Sleep. Also, as with many Shelf 12s, this one has no rests and no "cheater" holds.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > West Creek > Thunder Ridge > The Brown Wall > The Shadow (5.12)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Dec 11, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is a stout route, with some hard climbing above your protection. I've done almost all of the quality 12s in Thunder Ridge, and this one gave me the most trouble. Expect to work a lot harder for the moves and clips if you're short.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Turkey Rocks > Turkey Tail > Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitc... (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Dec 11, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is a scrappy pitch, delicate yet powerful. There is a hidden pin after the 2nd bolt (the glue-in). I was unable to get a biner through the hole, and I'd recommend just skipping it and standing up into the good undercling handjam where you can place a good overhead 0.4 Camalot. You could get a finger-size piece (I had a red c3) after the glue-in bolt, but the bolt is bomber, and the fall is clean. Fun route, but not a classic when compared to other 'classics' in the area.


Location: Colorado > Golden > Golden Gate Canyon SP > Dude's Throne > Buster Brown (5.13a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Dec 2, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Consider skipping the 7th (?) bolt (the one before the undercling flake). It's a bit unnecessary, just pumps you out, and you can clip the 8th bolt from the undercling with the 6th one just below your feet.

Really good route, amazing, technical face climbing. I highly doubt it's 13a. I don't have enough experience at the grade to be sure, but maybe I was just having a really good day....


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > The Arizona Strip > Lime Kiln Canyon > The Grail > Homo Faber (5.12d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 26, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Really tough clips for me at 5'7". Thankfully there were extendo draws on some of the fixed wire draws when I tried it (as well as a super long sling on the 2nd to last), which made things better. Short people should plan on clipping from their waist (sporty!!) or tip toeing for those clips from lower down. Not as sustained as Mantis, but harder moves.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > The Diamond > Hidden Gem (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 26, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Amazing route. Sustained, and much steeper than it appears. Lots of glue, but it climbs so well you forget immediately.

FA Bill Ohran


Location: Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > The Diamond
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 26, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The Goss guidebook is not the most helpful for this crag. Either have the Limestone Bible, or go with someone who knows the area. This is a magical place.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > The Diamond > Second Cousin (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 26, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The location listed is incorrect. This route is near the middle/right side of the crag, immediately left of the huge choss chimney/corner system. About 100 ft. left of the steep stair system that leads to the easier slab climbs.


Location: Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Road > The Bank > Surreal Estate (5.12c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The bolt that protects the big toss to the pocket above the mini-roof (bolt 4?) is a spinner and/or doesn't look in the best of shape. I couldn't finger tighten it, consider a wrench if you plan on doing this route.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > West Creek > Thunder Ridge > The Post Office > Goin' Postal (5.12)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 30, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Really great route, though a bit nebulous as to where the actual line was. Following the bolts is straightforward, and then after the 3rd you reach a huge jug on the far left side of a sloping ledge, where you can place a really cool #1 Camalot in a slot (put long runners on it!). Dave's comment above sounds like you foot traverse right on this ledge...I chose to hand traverse this ledge, as there are great holds and great feet on the face. This leads to a fun, easy mantel on the right side... more >>


Location: Colorado > South Platte > West Creek > Thunder Ridge > The Quarry > Bucking Chute (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 21, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Save a #0.5 Camalot for the top of the flake! This felt hard for Thunder Ridge 11a, but it could have been the foothold decomposing underfoot at the crux. With more traffic, this will clean up nicely!


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Moonlight Buttress > Sheer Lunacy (Free) (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 16, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Really good route. Hard to call it a classic when compared to Moonlight or Shune's, but still 4 stars.

Getting to the Primo crack was no bueno, even with the Lunar X variation Luke mentions above. Not bad, but not great. Primo crack was awesome, and felt about 11+. Good gear the whole way, was psyched to have triples from purple-orange metolius.

Next pitch felt harder to me. Not as sustained, but a hard boulder problem at the cool hueco feature. Definitely easier if you're tall.... more >>


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Moonlight Buttress > The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12+)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 16, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: For mid-October, the route can be climbed almost entirely in the shade. We started at 8 am and hit the rocker block at the same time as the sun. We did have to climb the entire grand dihedral in the sun, but it was nice to get warmed up and there was a good breeze (I'm really intolerant of heat and was comfy). Shade for the slot pitch because of its orientation, and then shade the whole rest of the way. Really comfy temps for a high of 79 in the park, with a good breeze.

For Josh's ... more >>


Location: Wyoming > Lander Area > Fossil Hill > Graboids (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 8, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I thought the bottom half (i.e. the crux) was great, technical, footwork intensive climbing. The rock is fantastic! Above that it's hero jug hauling on hand-eating pockets. Not as good as Channel Zero, but close...


Location: Europe > Greece > Kalymnos > Secret Garden > Achinos (5.10b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: We must have climbed different routes! I know there is a 10d either immediately left or right (can't remember) that was a total bomb.


Location: Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Valhalla > Superratic Pillar > Great White Behemoth (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 4, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: ^^ agreed...

Looks amazing, has some fun moves, but far from the best 12b (or any grade, for that matter) in Ten Sleep. It does, however, get shade much earlier than many other routes!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Vampire Rock > The Good, The Bad, and The ... (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 27, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Put an extra long draw or sling on the 4th bolt of That's Weak if linking pitches to alleviate rope drag. Fantastic route, one of the true gems in BoCan....


Location: Colorado > Fort Collins > Poudre Canyon > Triple Tier Area > Old Aid Wall aka Upper Eche... > Dream of Poudre (5.12d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 19, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is one of the best sport routes I've done in the Front Range. At 5'7", this route has big, powerful moves one after another until the upper slab. There's great shakes throughout, but that upper crux is hard with a pump! The route feels harder than any 12d I've done and/or been on. Regardless of grade, it's quality all the way!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Overhang Rock > Ouroboros (5.12d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 5, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The bolt just before the 1st anchor is out of the rock, and the hanger is incredibly loose. The bolt seems solid, but it sticks out from the rock about a 1/4"....

Also, the first "anchor" is just one bolt with a rap ring and then a bolt with no hanger or nut. There was a party climbing next to us today that said they had been cleaning the route and the nut and hanger just "fell off". Not sure what that means....


Location: Europe > Greece > Kalymnos > Iannis > Tufa King Pumped (5.12c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 1, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Holy crap, this route is good. Although the description makes it sound worse than it is. I used two crimps through the crux and they were both very positive. Really good sequential climbing with incredible position. The short splitter up top is icing on the cake. Whoa!


Location: Europe > Greece > Kalymnos > Galatinani > Nymfi (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 1, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is the shittiest (literally) belay in Kalymnos. I think I'm just sour because my little T-Rex arms and short eskimo body couldn't figure out the crux, like, at all.


Location: Europe > Greece > Kalymnos > Galatinani
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 1, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The cave actually holds shade a lot longer than 1 pm in July. We left at 1 pm and the cave was still fully shaded. We went and got lunch in Emporios and came back and drove past around 2 pm and it was still shaded (not sure about the belays though...). It is blocked by the north breeze though, so go on a really windy day and it should work out.


Location: Europe > Greece > Kalymnos > Panorama > Mind Boggle (5.12c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 1, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Agree with the above post. The big move from the hueco is the hardest move, but keeping it together for the section above that to the rest is harder and more involved.


Location: Europe > Greece > Kalymnos > Iliada > Iliada Right > Zorba le Gros (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 1, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The upper headwall is some of the most magical climbing I've ever done! Long arms and/or being tall will help on this route. I have neither of those things...


Location: Europe > Greece > Kalymnos > Panorama > Lulu in the Sky (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 1, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: After a month of climbing on Kalymnos this was in my top 3 favorite routes.


Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · Contact · About