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Rock Climbing Photo: Just a little overhanging....


Member Since: Apr 22, 2011
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,248
Total Points: 640
Last Year: 135
Last 30 Days: 18
41 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mr. Stevens been climbing?










Contributions


All 681 | Routes 16 | Areas 1 | Photos 76 | Page Improvements | Comments 85 | Posts 68 | Stars 240 | Ratings 195
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The French Are Here (5.12c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 27, 2016

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Comments: I'm on the shorter side (5'7") with a negative ape index and didn't find any of the moves to be reachy. I toyed around with that small sidepull as mentioned above, but in the end, I didn't need it and wouldn't of even been able to use it as it's so bad. Heavy Weather at The Bank had bigger moves for me!

As for the grade, I don't know. It wa... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : You Snooze, You Lose (5.11c/d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: What a great route! Techy laybacking to a pocketed bulge straight out of Wild Iris! If it weren't for the no-hands rest in the middle, the route would probably check in around 12a or 12b.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Aspen Glade : The Aspen Glade : Lonely Are the Brave (5.11a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Nov 18, 2016

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Comments: An entry for this route already exists here:

mountainproject.com/v/lonely-a...


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : I Am A Machine (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: This route deserves much more traffic. The upper headwall has some incredible pockets and great flow. The bottom 2-3 bolts is definitely throw away climbing and detracts a bit, but the upper part is completely worth it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Gate Sector : Devil's Gate : Dammit Samet (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: This is a great route but is suffering from a lot of flaky rock - many of which are crucial holds. This will obviously clean up with traffic, but the route may certainly get more difficult....

My first trip up the route I really didn't like it, and it felt really hard, but after sussing out the moves, I really enjoyed it my second time up. 12b seems fair once you've got the moves down, as there seemed to be some very hidden holds that made sequences way e... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : ... : Photo
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: Killer as in "dude, that's killer!" or as in the flake will fall off and kill you?

I guess it could be both in The Black....


Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Childhood's End (5.12- R)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Oct 3, 2016

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Comments: NOT funny!

Great route. I'd recommend not hauling....

The only gear that seemed mandatory was a green and yellow Alien, set of nuts, and a #3 and #4 Camalot. Although I guess gear is never "mandatory", right?

The only bad rock on the route is the 5.9 pitch right before the crux (I tore off some baseball sized pieces from a "jug") and the first half of the crux pitch. Other than that, I was super impr... more >>


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Aspen Glade : Gun Street Wall : Don't Paint Your Wagon (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: This is a great route. Multiple cruxes and fun, tricky movement. I liked this more than Butch Pocket and Gun Street Girl...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Babies R' Us (5.12- PG13)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 28, 2016

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Comments: We unfortunately had to bail after the 3rd pitch due to frigid temps and deteriorating weather, but the first two pitches of this route are a masterpiece of rock climbing! Thoughtful and sustained slab/face with a healthy dose of spice!

The 1st pitch was listed as 11a on our topo and that seemed about right. The 12a crux on p2 is really thin but short and well-protected. It eases significantly afterwards but still keeps you on your toes (literally).

Expect to work a little harder way above you... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 14, 2016

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Comments: This is an amazing route and certainly a "magical mystery tour". All the gear beta is spot on, but I'm surprised I didn't see anything mentioned for protecting the flake after the first three (?) bolts on the crux pitch. A long sling (four footer) can be used to sling the very obvious hole. A large (#3 or #4 Camalot) could be used, I suppose, but that flake is thin and very vibrato! Getting from the bolt to the fla... more >>


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Drugs and Sex : Mater Hater (5.12-)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Aug 3, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic route! The upper part is very Wild Iris! The left hand jug/flake that you use to pull up into the ramp/corner is a bit suspicious... thankfully you don't have to pull too hard, but exercise caution.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto : Wyoming Flower Child (5.11d) : Photo
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: I'm pretty sure that is Center El Shinto. WFC starts to the right, in a crack as well.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Dark Side : Dark Side Wall : Passover (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: Bolt #6 on this route is in bad shape. Sticking out ~1/4 inch, and quite rusty....

You may want to, dare I say, pass over this route for the time being...


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Mohican : Trail of Tears Wall : Trail of Tears (5.12a/b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: The pockets before gaining the arete were very dusty. Even with a brushing, they didn't seem to get better. Certainly adds some difficulty!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mondo Beyondo : World Domination : Weight Of The World (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: Felt harder than World Leader Pretend. The headwall doesn't have as hard a move as WLP, but more sustained, I thought.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Lower Remuda : Court and Spark (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: I wouldn't describe the opening as being "a few slab moves"...felt pretty darn steep and bouldery


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Aspen Glade : Cowboy King Wall : Choke Cherry Eyes (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Tread lightly on the upper head wall. The rock quality deteriorates quite a bit.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall : Wind and Rattlesnakes (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Felt harder than Ruby Shooter and Court & Spark...


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Left Side (Tribal War, Poke... : Lone Pilgrim (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic pitch. Probably no 12a move, but very sustained at mid-to-hard 5.11. Certainly a 12a effort overall.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Brother Clucker (5.12b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Really fun route, but the top is still cleaning up. Knocked a football sized cobble off with my foot just below the anchors. The bottom half, where the crux is, is super solid and very clean.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Diamonds and Rain (5.12a)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Jun 29, 2016

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Comments: The 1st and 3rd bolts don't seem to be in the best shape. The first seemed the worst, it was slightly pulled out of the rock. Great route though.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Partners in Crime (5.11c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: The opening moves on this are harder for me than any of the 12a's I've been on at Shelf, or any of the 12a-12b McLaughlin/Schuler routes I've been on in the S-Platte. I can see it being 11c if you're tall and have the reach, but not at 5'7"....

Regardless, it's a beautiful route. The upper part is great, sustained low-5.11 climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : West Overhang (5.11b/c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 21, 2016

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Comments: Even if you don't send, rest assured that the whipper from the top of the crux is quite satisfying.

This route was way more restful than I had anticipated. I was totally on my feet for the traverse and had plenty of time to place good gear. I thought I was going to have to gun it right when I got to the base of the slot, but again, there are great feet and you can really keep the weight off your arms with the right body position. I still fell at the top of the crux from b... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: Mr. Stevens When: May 2, 2016

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Comments: Phenomenal route, one of my favorites in Red Rock or anywhere for that matter. Makes cloud tower look like a pile ;-)

The first 2 pitches can be linked with a 70 m rope and about 30 feet of simul-climbing. However, the leader will need to place minimal gear and put runners on everything as the pitches wander. Linking 3-4 would be very difficult. Those first 4 pitches go very fast, but also bake in the sun in April until noon'ish. Once at the base of p5 you're mostly shaded by the... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : The Moratorium (5.11b)
By: Mr. Stevens When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: Can anyone comment on the sun/shade times for this route in June?


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