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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact bsmoot

Point Rank: # 365
Total Points: 2,015

365 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has bsmoot been climbing?










Contributions


All 1062 | Routes 64 | Areas 9 | Approach Trails | Photos 248 | Page Improvements | Comments 209 | Posts 294 | Stars 220 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Red Arch Mountain > Red Awaking (5.7 A4)
By: bsmoot When: Jul 11, 2010

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Comments: Awesome route and photos...thanks for posting up. How was the rock quality above the roof?

Looks like the wildest wall in Zion!


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Black Peeler Buttress > Peeler Face > Riveting (C0)
By: bsmoot When: Jul 5, 2010

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Comments: Sadly, this unnecessary pitch bypasses some very good climbing on the original Black Peeler.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Black Peeler Buttress > Peeler Face > Black Peeler (5.10 C3- PG13)
By: bsmoot When: Jul 5, 2010

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Comments: That would be great Ben. I remember the first time I did this route. There weren't any bolts on the entire climb. Kudos to the FA party. Sadly this whole area has been over bolted.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > The Fin > The Fin Arete (5.10b R) > Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jun 9, 2010

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Comments: The climber in the photo is on the Fin Arete. It looks like he skipped the 2nd bolt, which used to be the second pitch belay.

The broken chickenhead is on the arete just below the belay where the 2 routes merge.


Location: Utah > West Desert > Ibex > Severity Buttress > Severity Disparity (5.11a)
By: bsmoot When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: Super quality...finger cracks, continuous face climbing, great rock, cool belay ledge, exposure...this route has it all!


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Emerald Pools > Cracking the Emerald (5.10 C1+)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: You're welcome. Way to get off the beaten path!


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > East Side > Aries Butte > Led by Sheep (5.6)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 10, 2010

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Comments: This is a great, moderate route. The belays have good ledges and the bolts were well thought out. For the most part, they are still solid. It will be interesting to see if the bolts develop the cratering around the edges like on the South Face Route, on the Great White Throne. We noticed that the last 2 belays had some bolts that were loosening up a bit. We didn't place any natural gear. The setting is magnificent!


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Gate Buttress > Beckey's Wall Area > Needle's Eye Variation (5.7)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 1, 2010

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Comments: As a teenager, I could fit through easily. There used to be a few chockstones in there too. A few years later I couldn't fit.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Crescent Crack Buttress > Missing Link (5.10 R)
By: bsmoot When: Mar 28, 2010

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Comments: This great route was another one of those rite of passage lines that had to be climbed by aspiring, self proclaimed hard men of the late 70's & 80's. Some scary plunges were taken on the infamous mantle. Even if you didn't succeed on this pitch, you at least got some respect and credit for taking the "big one."

The first bolt on pitch 1 was not part of the first ascent.


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Twin Brothers > Lost in Transit (5.11 A4-) > Photo
By: bsmoot When: Dec 16, 2009

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Comments: Peyote Dreams


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Emerald Pools > Cracking the Emerald (5.10 C1+)
By: bsmoot When: Dec 6, 2009

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Comments: Ben Williams recently free climbed this route at 5.12-

3 pitches were 5.11 and one, the 5th was the crux...Great job!

Note: One of the bolts at the top of pitch 5 didn't tighten down well. It could use replacing.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Allen's Ridge Area > Hanging Slab Gully (WI3)
By: bsmoot When: Dec 3, 2009

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Comments: This is a fun little climb. Get on it now...as soon as more snow comes, it gets buried.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > American Fork Canyon > Hard Rock > Teeanova (5.12a)
By: bsmoot When: Nov 17, 2009

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Comments: "but a few jugs have been broken off"

This is true, shortly after this route was put up, a major flake broke off...the one you clip the first bolt from. Later, another smaller, but key hold broke off down low, so yes! the start is much harder.


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > The Streaked Wall > Wet Stone Wall (5.10 A4)
By: bsmoot When: Nov 14, 2009

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Comments: Nice Photos...Wild looking line!


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Angel's Landing > Prodigal Sun (5.8 C2) > Photo
By: bsmoot When: Nov 1, 2009

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Comments: This is an original Piton Ron topo, drawn nearly 30 years ago...cool


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Waterfront, The > Chickenhead Holiday (5.6)
By: bsmoot When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: As a beginner, I climbed this route back in 1976. There weren't ANY bolts on the entire climb. Sad to see an unnecessary bolt station added to a very historic route.

This was the first officially recorded route in Little Cottonwood.

F.A. Ted Wilson and Robert Stout May 1961


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Telluride > Ames Wall > Ames Ice Hose (WI5 M6 R) > Photo
By: bsmoot When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: Whoa...I've never seen it so thick!


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Albion Basin > Devil's Castle > Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: Well 2 stars = "a good route" so yes, that's being generous. I'm glad to get the input because I did feel a bit leery about giving the route 4 stars. James gave Black Streak 4 stars, so I tried it with Gothic! ... One could in fact argue that the Castle, with all of it's looseness shouldn't get any stars... after all, you're climbing on Satan's turf.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Albion Basin > Devil's Castle > Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 6, 2009

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Comments: Routes that don't get climbed very often tend to build up choss. Guess I'd better lessen my star rating giving all of the whining going on here.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Tanners Gulch > Hidden Heavenly Slab > The 7th Way (5.11a/b)
By: bsmoot When: Aug 22, 2009

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Comments: Pitch 4 is excellent...it's quite improbable, strenuous and thought provoking. Clay, I must have missed all of those "hidden" rests you were talking about!


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Tanners Gulch > Minions of Chaos Area > Minions of Chaos (5.10+)
By: bsmoot When: Aug 22, 2009

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Comments: This is a great route. The second pitch is one of the best face pitches I've done on the granite. It's like a 5.10 version of All Chalk and No Action, but longer. The steep 4th pitch has lots varied jamming...great way to finish!


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Storm Mountain Picnic Area > Reservoir Ridge > Goodro's Chimney (5.6)
By: bsmoot When: Aug 15, 2009

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Comments: This airy climb has a nice taste of history to it. The climbing is better and steeper than it looks. The old fixed pins seem to be right at the cruxes. You get a good view from the top. I'll affirm that Harold told me this was his favorite Storm Mt. climb.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Bell's Canyon > Middle Bell Tower > Winged Warrior (5.10 A1) > Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: We used the old stardrives in Zion...fun to place.


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Temple of Sinawava > Monkeyfinger (5.12) > Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jul 10, 2009

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Comments: Your're welcome! It's Piton Ron sacked out after a long day of nailing...and a few too many bong hits.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Bell's Canyon > Middle Bell Tower > Winged Warrior (5.10 A1)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 29, 2009

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Comments: Great job guys! Thanks for the photos & history


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