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Rock Climbing Photo: Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders


Member Since: Nov 17, 2007
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Bryan G

Point Rank: # 91
Total Points: 5,145
Last Year: 384
Last 30 Days: 0
166 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bryan G been climbing?










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All 1201 | Routes 337 | Areas 23 | Photos 243 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 212 | Posts 251 | Stars 134 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area : Ol' 5.10 (5.10d R)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: FA: Pat Ament and Tom Higgins (1975)

The second pitch climbs past one bolt to a right-trending ramp. Sling knobs for pro through some 5.9 climbing, then get some bomber small cams before an awkward section. At the top of this feature, clip a bolt, do a dyno, clip another bolt, then traverse to the anchor atop Lunatic Fringe.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 22 - Five and Dime Cliff : Ride the Lightning (5.12a)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: This is the best route at the crag I think. The crux up high has rad movement with really awesome rock.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Mirror Lake : Werner's Crack (5.8)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 3, 2016

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Comments: I thought this route was buried under talus?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 31 - The Jungle Gym : Flight Attendant (5.10d)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Little bit of a sandbag even if you DO use the tree. Blue-collar 10d I would say. Probably the best route at the crag, the overhang at the end is rad.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Public Sanitation Wall : Afterburner Variation (5.11d)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Feels more natural to finish on Tucker's. Bit run out to the next bolt on Tucker's (not hard though), but if you want pro, you can either plug a finger size cam in the horizontal, or traverse right to clip a bolt with a long runner then traverse back.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower Area : Leaning Tower : Wet Denim Daydream (5.7 C3- PG13)
By: Bryan G When: Jul 14, 2016

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Comments: Went back with a hammer this time and sent. Sewed up the pitch off Ahwahnee, placing 8 beaks in 25 feet. I thought the small "Left" Tomahawks were the most useful. Rest of the route went clean.

The 3rd pitch above Ahwahnee has a terrifying 9' tall detached flake. It's ridiculous how far it's leaning out for how little contact it's making with the wall. There's a sket... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Public Sanitation Wall : Substance Abuse (5.12- PG13)
By: Bryan G When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: The arete looks striking from the ground, but don't be deceived, it's a chossy sandbagged pile. Worst climb at the crag.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Public Sanitation Wall : Wide Thing (5.10d)
By: Bryan G When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: I finally got around to climbing this. The upper portion of the route is awesome (and not that wide), but it's also pretty dirty and it takes a lot of effort to get to the good climbing. I think the most pleasant and safest way is to do it in two pitches and start on Best Bet Arete. Climb the bolted crack to a shelf with intermediate anchor, then traverse left about 20ft to another bolted anchor on a narrow ledge. From this belay, make some super burly moves (5.10++) up the s... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lost Brother : Call of the Yeti (5.8 A2)
By: Bryan G When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: I should also mention, there is a topo for this route (along with Blood & Coin) in the 2015 updated eBook version of Yos Bigwalls. The print book only has Prowd and Magic & Loss for this formation. You can get the ebook for just $10 yosemitebigwall.com/


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Higher Cathedral Spire : Northwest Face (5.8 A3+ PG13)
By: Bryan G When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: Some loose stuff on pitch 1 and below the Tower of Rubble (obviously). The rest of the climb is solid. The "A3+ expanding" section on pitch 8 is easy - not really expanding and takes bomber camhooks and 00/000 C3's. The "A2 beaks" before that is the crux and pretty hard. Pitch 7 is also difficult, and I took a 40-footer when a beak popped and I zippered some gear under it. Bring a couple offset TCU'@SEMICOLO... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Higher Cathedral Rock : The Crucifix (5.12b)
By: Bryan G When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: You only need a #5 if you think you might need to aid the 5.10 OW on the 3rd pitch. Both wide sections are really short and can be protected with a 3" cam at your feet. I would suggest bringing a second #4 instead, since those are useful on the long second pitch.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : Exploited (5.11b)
By: Bryan G When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: If you're wondering why the anchor is a few moves above the ledge, it's because you used to clip it while standing on the detached block. After giving said block the shove-off, I thought about just chopping the old anchor and drilling a new one a few feet lower, but ultimately I decided to reuse the original holes and keep the anchor where it was.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Mideast Crisis (5.8 A2)
By: Bryan G When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: The route now goes clean at C2 (taking the left var at the top of p7). There's no heads on the route and I don't recall any essential fixed pins, so I'd say it's a safe call to leave the hammer at home if you want to drop some weight.

Also you don't need nearly as many cams as the topo calls for. Assuming you're aiding everything, you could get away with a double rack to 3" with a single #4 and #5. But maybe bring triples from .5 to #2 so you can leave one for pro occasionally... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Ten Days After (5.8 A2+)
By: Bryan G When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: Pitch 1 has a short section of mandatory 5.9 free climbing (after the bolt) that feels stout when it's covered in ants and you're self-belayed. Pitch 2 is also dripping wet in the spring and I had to pull like 40lbs of grass and vegetation out of the crack. If you're soloing, then link pitch 6 (the traverse) with pitch 7. You might need a 70m to do this, but it makes cleaning the traverse on rappel super easy.

Bring a couple small beaks and a sawed-off KB. Also bring a handful of heads and some... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: Bryan G When: Nov 18, 2015

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Comments: Would it be a bad idea to attempt an ascent in late november around thanksgiving? What is the possibility of ice along the route that would make it unclimbable?

The conditions depend on how recently there has been a storm. You can check the current conditions ahead of time: Yosemite Web Cams... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle
By: Bryan G When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: You probably climbed Kiddie Corner (5.10a, FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue McDevitt, 2000s). Bolted face leading into a right-facing corner. Requires two ropes to rap unless you swing over to the left and make a second rap off the anchors for one of those short new sport routes.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Public Sanitation Wall : Unknown and Super Fun! (5.11+)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: A 60m was fine for lowering off. Felt easier than a lot of 5.11+ sport climbs in the Valley. I'd put it at maybe 5.11c


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower Area : Leaning Tower : Wet Denim Daydream (5.7 C3- PG13)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: After doing a handful of easy trade routes (W Face of the Tower, Liberty Cap, Lurking Fear, The Prow) and finding them altogether straightforward and easy, I was looking for something more challenging where I'd actually have to think about some of the placements. So I tried doing a hammerless ascent of Wet Denim and immediately got shut down by the beak seam on the pitch above Ahwahnee and ended up rapping to the ground.

The fact that anyone can get up that on hand placed be... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 32 - Elephant Rock : Fun Terminal (5.12a)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: Did you find the top of Elephant Rock at least? From the end of the climbers trail continue straight passing near the summit, and then walk a bit left down some slabs. If you come to the edge of the cliff and aren't ontop of the Killer Pillar, then you'll probably at least have a vantage point where you can see it. Be careful to not knock anything down, as there could be parties far below.

Rock Climbing Photo: Killer Pillar
Killer Pillar



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Area : East Cottage Dome : ... : Old Folks Boogie (5.10d R)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: The top is a bit runout but only 5.7 or so. The harder climbing is well protected. This is a safe lead for a 5.10 climber.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Three Brothers Area : Camp 4 Wall : Photo
By: Bryan G When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Looks like it might be Chopper (10c)? Was it about 100ft left of Doggie Do?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park
By: Bryan G When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Tuolumne has two guidebooks available and they are the same price. The Falcon Guide by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein is much more comprehensive with over 1000 routes. The Supertopo by Greg Barnes and Chris McNamara is a bit newer, full color, and features a handful of recently established routes which aren't included in the Falcon Guide, but it lacks many of the less popular formations and routes. Both books are good quality, it just comes down to whether or not you're looking to climb the clas... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Mount Broderick : Thugz Mansion (5.10b A2) : Photo
By: Bryan G When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: Is there a higher res version of this somewhere? It's difficult to read the text.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon
By: Bryan G When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: I think it makes sense to break it up into smaller sections. There were something like 80 areas listed under the main Valley page, which seems too cluttered. It would actually be nice for MP to have left to right sorting for areas in addition to routes. It could be an optional feature because for some places (like Joshua Tree) it wouldn't make sense. But in a lot of climbing venues (like Yosemite or Ten Sleep) the various crags are pretty much lined up along the rim of a canyon, so left/right so... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Cathedral Rock : Kung Fu Panda (5.9)
By: Bryan G When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: It's an enjoyable climb, worth the trouble of cleaning it out imo. And most importantly it's in a high-traffic area so it will actually stay clean.


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