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Member Since: Apr 13, 2010
Last Visit: Jul 16, 2017
Contact brucy

Point Rank: # 1,478
Total Points: 475

1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has brucy been climbing?










Contributions


All 265 | Routes 37 | Areas 7 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 71 | Posts 5 | Stars 96 | Ratings 49
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Sunset Girl (5.12a)
By: brucy When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: In it's present condition, this 5 bolt route is at best but one star. The 1st two bolts are fun with the bouldery crux between 2 and 3; but, here's the rub- the route was most likely pink not redpointed on the 1st ascent with prehung draws on 3 and 4. If one attempts to hang their own draw on 3 they will find it not very much fun and much bolder then if a long draw is pre-placed on it allowing essentially a top rope crux. Clipping 4 is totally easy- if you're 6' tall, any less, and you... more >>


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Womb with a View (5.11d)
By: brucy When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: Thought that the route was bogus with sporty distances between bolts on friable rock. Though aggresive cleaning might have produced a more enjoyable route we admit that it's entirely possible that it's so fundamentally chossy that it's virtually impossible to successfully clean- though that begs the question that if that is true, whether the route should have been put up to begin with. The cams in question for the central portions of the route would be anything from 3/4"- 1 1/2"; while... more >>


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : The Soft Parade (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: Well bolted- not! Or at least unless you put add-a-bolts (long slings) on bolts 3,9, and 10. Two cruxes on route (bolts 3 and 8).


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Casting Shadows (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: The crux of this route is off the 2nd bolt. Take care on the mono pockets here- more then one climber has poped finger pulleys there.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : The Mangler (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: A crux that's definitely easier if 6' or taller. We too thought the protection to be ego-based at the start, consequently not "well bolted".


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Diaper Rash (5.10-)
By: brucy When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: Poorly protected given the awful nature of the rock. Rough on the tips.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Flakes of Wrath (5.11a)
By: brucy When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: This is a route that was origionally rated 11a, but never really was. Even before the upper foot ledge broke in January of 2010 it was never easier then 11c, now it feels like 12a. The consequences of falling before the 1st bolt would not be pretty- stick clip it (this would remove the R rating). The climbing to it can be done either 6' left or 6' right at the same difficulty.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Neptune (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: A somwhat fun route that suffers from some ego-based bolting. This can be helped somewhat by bringing some wires and rp's to supplement the bolts,


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Feast and Famine (5.10d)
By: brucy When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: We (my partner and I) thought the route as way more difficult then the guide book states- if one straddles the bolts at the upper crux. Also, we thought the protection could have been better placed on the upper crux as well. By chance, two years after our ascent, we overheard a party of two just finishing the route who were mumbling that they thought the route as middle 11 if Public Hanging was 11c and Armed and Dangerous was 11b.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Bombay on the Rocks (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: Steep and fun route with big moves over blocks. One caveat however- on the lower, if self-cleaning the draws rather then someone following, the rope saws over sharp edges of the blocks (the first ascentionist neglected to round them) to the extent that I was literally waiting for the rope to part. Recommendation- have someone follow and clean or rap with tension from your belayer and clean.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : My Mom Can Crank (5.12a)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: Wonderful and varied route. Excellent positioning and looks almost impossible from the ground, which probably keeps many off the route, this is unfortunate as this one is great for the feeling of accomplishment.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Little Rig (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: When I did the route it had a severely sandbaged rating of 5.11b. The route has seen little "serious" cleaning. Over an hour was spent cleaning a route the author should have done. The consenses from others I've spoken to is at least 5.11d with most comfortable with 5.12a.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Caldera (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: Caldera is without a doubt the best route for it's grade in the Owens River Valley. It's varied, the positioning is a wonder, and the first ascentionists did a superb job both bolting and cleaning the route (often neglected in other routes there). Why the guide for that region does not recognize as such sounds political.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Double Exposure (5.11a/b)
By: brucy When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: A route that should never have been. Standard Queen Creek ego-based built-in runout pro (especially on the crux where a nice ledge could easily munch your ankles). Even in its finest moments it's at best blase' climbing. The rock quality is "scheise" and with aggressive cleaning (as in sledges, chisels, and crowbars) could at least been made somewhat safe. One can't depend on subsequent ascent parties to do the cleaning of a route that should have been done beforehand- this is an important respo... more >>


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon
By: brucy When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: Queen Creek is an area that suffers from somewhat loose and friable rock (welded tuff/dacite), inconsistent rating (which can be severely sandbagged), painful edges and pockets "volcanic coral", occasionally poor anchors or lack of descending hardware (necessitating dangerous walk-offs vis-a-vis an out of step late 70's/early 80's mentality), and ego-based built-in runout protection (EBR) on rock that is anything but bombproof Yosemite granite. Having an national bouldering contest there resulte... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: May 10-11 big bear or nearby SoCal Southern California PartnersbrucyJun 8, 2017
Partner for the UintasUtah PartnersbrucyJun 15, 2015
re: A brief comparison between Belay Specs and CU Belay GlassesClimbing Gear ReviewsbrucyMay 11, 2014
re: DIY Belay glassesClimbing Gear DiscussionbrucyJan 17, 2013
re: DIY Belay glassesClimbing Gear DiscussionbrucyJan 17, 2013

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Pumpkin 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Attila the Hun Wall

Massive Headwound Harry 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Main Wall

Norman 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Narrows East

Liposuction 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : West Face

Joe Mamba 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Circle A Wall

Apex Predator 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Circle A Wall

Harbingers 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Utah : Saint George : Prophesy Wall

Thieves Karma 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Utah : Saint George : Prophesy Wall

Schizophrenic Boulevard 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Arizona : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Ride the Wild 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Arizona : Central Arizona : ... : Lower Looner Land

Caldera 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Flavin Haven

Lava Haul 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Flavin Haven

Nanbeeb 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Lower Falls Amphitheatre

Fortune Cookie 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

California : High Desert : ... : Main Wall

Ship of Fools 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Utah : Saint George : Prophesy Wall

Equanimity 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Utah : Saint George : Prophesy Wall

The Hangin' Judge 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

California : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Claim Jumper Wall

Ancient Chinese Secret 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

California : High Desert : ... : Main Wall

Son of Belayer Slayer 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Pub Wall

Feast and Famine 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Arizona : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Love In the Ruins 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Arizona : Central Arizona : ... : Hook Wall

Technical Knee-Highs 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Utah : Saint George : Prophesy Wall

Public Hanging 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Arizona : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

My Mom Can Crank 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

California : Sierra Eastside : ... : ICBM Tower

Last Lonely Eagle 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Main Wall

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