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Member Since: Jun 17, 2006
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1443 | Routes 16 | Areas 1 | Approach Trails | Photos 23 | Page Improvements | Comments 47 | Posts 5 | Stars 1293 | Ratings 58
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > South Side > Photo
By: Bruce Burgess When: Oct 27, 2017

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Comments: I believe this is Le Pump on the SunWall.


Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > Nose Area > The Nose (5.8)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Oct 10, 2017

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Comments: Christopher Knippenberg,
You can easily get to the tourist trail from the top of the Nose, but there isn't a proper trail that connects to the North Side descent trail. The top of the North Side creates a shoulder that is well below the summit off to the left as you are walking down the trail. You'll have to bushwhack down to the shoulder first to find the descent trail. Getting a visual on the Hidden Wall would be key.


Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > North Side > Nuclear Erection (5.12d)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: If you are suggesting using the safari rap anchors, rapping with a single 70 will NOT make it down in one go. A single 80m just makes it with rope stretch and maybe a bit of down climbing.


Location: North Carolina > Linville Gorge > Hawksbill Mtn > Middle Hawksbill > Luciferin (5.9)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: Nice find Lynn & Matt! This is nice addition to the area and will improve with more traffic.


Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock
By: Bruce Burgess When: Jun 7, 2016

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Comments: Regarding the rack question, I pack a single set of BD stoppers (3-13), doubles on 00-2 Metolius cams (or equivalent/TCUs/BC C3s/aliens, etc), singles .3, .4, 3 & 4 C4/X4 Camalots, doubles C4/X4 .5 - 2, and tricams to #2. There are a few routes where it's nice to have double #3s and maybe a #5 cam like Odyssey or DumDeDemDem. Opinions may vary.

Edit: and for runners/draws, leave the sport draws at home. longer quick draws and alpine draws are the way to go.


Location: North Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Rumbling Bald Bouldering > West Side Boulders > Devil Boulder > Crescent Crack (V2)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: It was considered highball when I first climbed it 30 years ago before crash pads. Now you've heard it twice.


Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > South Side > The Legacy (5.10d)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: With the addition of this new anchor, can you now rap from the standard south side rap station in 3 single rope raps?


Location: North Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Test Pilots Buttress > Kosmonauts (5.11b)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: This is a excellent and stout fist crack capped by a nice but somewhat dirty face. Pro on the upper face is excellent and comes about every body length. For the crack I placed two #3 and #4 C4s, a #5 C4 and on the face above two of each #1 & #2 TCUs, and a single #1 C4. There's a two bolt anchor at the top of this route and a single 70m will get you down.


Location: North Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Test Pilots Buttress > Z Crack (5.10b/c)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: FA was Doug Matthews per Thomas Kelley's 2nd edition guide.


Location: North Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Test Pilots Buttress > Z Crack (5.10b/c)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: I'm not sure who was the first ascensionist for Z Crack, but I am sure it wasn't me and CC. CC and I did the FA of Space Monkeys along with Buddy Price and Jimmy McCarthur. My first trip to the Bald was in 85. We climbed Nuclear Arms, Z-Crack and Shredded Wheat. There were slings for Z Crack on the Laurel then.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Calico Basin > Red Springs Rock > Mavericks (5.11+)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: My 5'5" wife found an unchalked wrapper jug up and left of said throw holds. Said the reach felt 11-.


Location: North Carolina > Linville Gorge > Shortoff - Upper Wall > Blue Nude (5.11c/d) > Photo
By: Bruce Burgess When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: Sorry for the confusion Nathan. That was just a tongue and cheek reference to the artist Henri Matisse who painted Blue Nude.


Location: North Carolina > Linville Gorge > Shortoff - Upper Wall > Stiff Upper Lip (5.11+)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: It was Karl Lail with me on the original FA.


Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > Sun Wall > Irish Jig (5.10d)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: This route can be done in one pitch with a 60m rope which is how I led it on the FA.


Location: North Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Left Field > Knuckle Balls (5.10b/c PG13) > Photo
By: Bruce Burgess When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Looks like you climbed a new route. KnuckleBalls climbs the orange streaked section further right. I just looked at the topo in the new RB guide and can see how you climbed your new route instead. KB does end at the same tree.

See the topo here for more details.
mountainproject.com/images/81/...


Location: North Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Left Field > Huffin Cedar (5.10a PG13)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Correct. The route to the left of the flake is Huffin. That flake and face above is a really good toprope problem too! There are a few errors in the new guide book.


Location: North Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Left Field > Huffin Cedar (5.10a PG13) > Photo
By: Bruce Burgess When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Right. The flake is a cool top-rope problem. Huffin follows bomber cracks and bolt protected face moves out left then back right.


Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > South Side > Parachute Woman (5.10d)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Jan 8, 2015

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Comments: I've led this one a couple of times back in the day. Getting established on this route is pretty heady but double ropes really help. Once you're into to the good gear the climbing is as good as Dinkus only harder. Not as difficult as Ciaos though.


Location: Tennessee > The Tennessee Wall > T-Wall East > Crash Position (5.9)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this for the first time and found that if you take your time and find the gear, it's more like PG13. Here's some gear beta that may help if the routes reputation has kept you attempting it. Obvious gear and good stances get you up into the crack. You can girth hitch the horn and properly done this thing is bomber. After the next move is a large stopper/tricam or offset cam, then a shallow but bomber #1 C4 BD goes in the first horizontal above the crack. Up a bit higher was a very shal... more >>


Location: California > High Sierra > 06 - Little Lakes Valley & ... > Bear Creek Spire > North Arete (5.8)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: Great alpine rock route with an amazing summit! Climbed it August 8, 2014. El Nino conditions meant storms were gonna happen by 4pm or sooner. Started hiking from Mosquito Flats at 4am, simul-climbed the route with a 30m rope and tagged the summit at 10:30. Probably could have done better on time, but briefly got off trail briefly gem lakes. Carried a single set of cams .3 to 3 and med - large stoppers. Doubles on #1, #2 & #3 would have allowed longer blocks, but it worked out fine. Nothin... more >>


Location: North Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Buttress > Sea Wolf (5.8 R)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Feb 7, 2014

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Comments: Thomas Kelley FFAed this route drilling all the bolts from stances with his Bosch. I only held the rope.


Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > East Face/Guides Wall (Lef... > Nonlinear Equation (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: It's nice to have a low ball nut (2nd to smallest size) for the thin horizontal just below the anchor.


Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > Hidden Wall > Hidden Agenda (5.11a)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: On the 2nd pitch, the first tricam is a brown just up and right of the belay. Placement orientation is crucial. The tip down and rails up. Another 15ft up is a #2 or maybe 2.5 place in the same orientation.


Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > Hidden Wall > Carboman (5.10c/d PG13)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: I replaced all the 2nd pitch bolts and 3rd pitch anchors bolts in 2011. You can now rap from the top of the 3rd in two ~55m raps. Didn't have the right tools for pulling out the old bolts that day, so some of the old mank is still there. The third pitch follows a nice feature and takes a handful of tiny units in and right of the groove as well as several #1-#3 cam placements left of the groove higher up.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Lost Angel > Archangel (5.12c)
By: Bruce Burgess When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: The mega clasic Bacher[Yerian, like many other testpieces across the nation is also a "dangerous endeavor". However, out of respect for the FA party, no one has retro-bolted the route, and it stands as a testimony of Bacher's abilities and a goal for many to test their skills. For those who can climb the route, it's a major accomplishment that will stay with you the rest of your life. You won't get that sensation with a fun clip-up. I'd wager, that Thom Byrne put a lot of heart and soul into ... more >>


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