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Member Since: Jul 31, 2001
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Brice W
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Point Rank: # 7,691
Total Points: 64
Last Year: 20
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 99 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 40 | Posts 20 | Stars 21 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Moraine Park/Fern Lake Trai... : Jaws Falls (WI4)
By: Brice W When: Jan 25, 2010

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Comments: As of Jan 2010, there is an intermediate anchor consisting of two beefy bolts in the rock 30m up. The anchor is on the left as you climb or rap.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... : Tennish Anyone? (5.10a)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: I don't know if this is the normal start, but I climbed straight up some fun face, cracks and grooves to below the roof, then bypassed it on the right to gain the face and head up and left for the first bolt. It was not hard. At the top, I headed right to the crack after clipping the last bolt since I couldn't figure how to go straight up the bolt line.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Bloody Fingers (5.10a)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: There is a pretty good stance at the beginning to reach up and place gear that will get you through most of the crux, so the lieback didn't seem too bad. Outstanding route!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Private Idaho (5.9)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: This route looks steep but all the great stems make it easier than it looks. Great fun and good gear.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - North : Just Say Go (5.10a)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: Gear is definitely nice to have for getting off the ledge, but I don't remember wanting any more for the top - maybe I was just getting used to the COR runouts at that point! Fun route.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Columbian Crack (5.7)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: This is a fun crack that you don't have to jam much because of all the face holds. I wouldn't do it before Rye Crisp or Wheat Thin, but definitely worth doing if you are at Elephant Rock.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Beauty and the Beast (5.10a)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: This felt easier to me than Tow Away Zone. You can also head left at the top easily to get to the JAPF anchors.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Tow Away Zone (5.10a)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: The stances were a little tenuous, but I got a good camalot and alien in before the bolt, so it didn't feel too spicy. Great route!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - Northeas... : Thin Slice (5.10a)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: This felt more sustained to me than Bloody Fingers, but still great fun. The bottom part does climb like a sport climb. The whole route took great gear. A 60M rope doesn't quite reach down to the nice ledge for the TR.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Moraine Park/Fern Lake Trai... : Jaws Falls (WI4)
By: Brice W When: Aug 7, 2008

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Comments: In fat conditions (like winter 2007-08) this felt 3+, about the same as Pumphouse in Vail, but longer. Great route, it goes in a nice long pitch. Traversing over to the tree rap anchor at the top was a bit exciting as my last screw was way below me. There is a small, but decent ledge to traverse on, but I didn't find many good pick or hand holds.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : The Flying Dutchman (5.4 WI2-3)
By: Brice W When: Aug 7, 2008

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Comments: Climbed this 6/7/08. It was not long after a spring storm, so we kicked steps up this to the Loft, got a break on the Clark's Arrow traverse, and then kicked steps to the top. The ice at the crux took one 17cm screw, but there are plenty of placements in the rock to the left of the ice. The cracks are mostly parallel, so cams are a good call. It's a fun snow climb and combined with Clark's Arrow and a descent of the Cables route, a great traverse of Long's.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Satterfield's Crack (5.8)
By: Brice W When: Aug 7, 2008

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Comments: Fun climb! As of July, slinging two chockstones in the squeeze chimney provided decent protection for the standard finish. I put a #3 Camalot in before the chimney, slung a baseball-sized chockstone low, and then it was about 10 feet of slithering before I could sling the volleyball-sized chockstone. A long runner helped avoid too much rope drag. Starting the second pitch is definitely #4 Camalot or larger territory.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+)
By: Brice W When: Dec 20, 2007

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Comments: Outstanding route! We climbed this on 9/1/07 in six pitches with a 60m rope. We didn't simulclimb, but stretched out the rope on more than one pitch. The runout sections didn't seem bad due to the solid rock and abundance of incut holds. I got off route at the top (it all looks the same up there) and basically went straight up where the topo has you go right a bit. The climbing didn't seem any harder than the normal route, but there was an exciting move onto a huge jug to get over a little ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: Brice W When: Aug 2, 2004

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Comments: Fun route! We did the thin crack variation on the South Face for the last pitch. The large amount of exposure and great climbing made it a fine finish. It looks much more asthetic than the standard finish.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Brice W When: Aug 1, 2004

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Comments: Great route! The first few pitches are not spectacular, but the last few make up for them. Tremendous exposure and fun climbing. A note on the rap descent. The 2nd and 3rd raps can be combined with double 60M ropes, they just reach. For the start of the 3rd rap (if you combine the standard 2nd and 3rd raps) walk SW towards the arete and the two raps bolts are obvious. No downclimbing is required. All raps are from nice large bolts. The bolts for the 2nd to last rap are hard to see from a... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : East Side (5.8+)
By: Brice W When: Jun 23, 2003

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Comments: One more thing... a 60M rope is just long enough to get you all the way down to where you can easily walk off. With a 50, you'd have to either downclimb a chimney section or maybe do another short rap.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : East Side (5.8+)
By: Brice W When: Jun 23, 2003

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Comments: As of 6/22/03, the rap anchor at the top of the pinnacle was good. There were a couple of slings, a 7mm cord, and a 11mm piece of rope (sheathed with a piece of tubular webbing). The hardware on the anchor was a quick link and a non-locking biner.

Great, varied climbing. The end of the last pitch is exposed and a bit run out, but the climbing is moderate.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak
By: Brice W When: May 23, 2003

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Comments: I haven't been there recently, but there is a little info on Steve Hoffmeyer's website: fourteenerworld.com. Here is a post from the forum on his site:

From: LiorDate: 5/17/03Time: 8:27:27 PMRemote Name: 12.203.218.55

Comments: Me and Jim did this route today. Started from I-70 (the road is blocked about 1 mile from Bakerville) and headed up the trail. The snow condition was not amazing (until the couloir) so early start is definitely recommended (snowshoes are more than just recommendati... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Glacier Gorge : ... : All Mixed Up (WI4- R)
By: Brice W When: Nov 18, 2002

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Comments: Tried to climb All Mixed Up on Sunday. The trail up from Mills Lake was broken, but by lighter people than us, apparently, because we broke through in many spots. We climbed the first pitch and bailed because the columns going over the steps on the second pitch were not really formed yet. In some places on the first pitch the ice was thick enough to take a 13cm screw, in others there was just unconsolidated snow covering rock. If you are a good mixed climber, though, like the guy soloing in ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : V3 (5.8)
By: Brice W When: Aug 22, 2002

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Comments: Great climb, it's like the V-slot on Verschneidung, but longer. Note to budding trad leaders: the climb protects well, except for the wide crack at the top (though it didn't feel too hard there). If you want to sew that up, two #4 Camalots would do the trick. There are good stances for placing gear, but in places the crack is a bit funky and takes a little more thought than just throwing in a cam or nut.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Gonzo (5.8)
By: Brice W When: Aug 22, 2002

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Comments: Fun climb. Nice to have the crag to ourselves on a busy Saturday afternoon in Eldo. This climb can be done in one pitch with a 60M rope, but I don't recommend doing that unless you are a fan of rope drag. To me, the awkward, slanting crack on p2 (5.7 in Rossiter's guide) felt harder than the nice finger crack on pitch 1. The scramble off is obvious and easy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Great Zot (5.8+)
By: Brice W When: Jul 24, 2002

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Comments: From the top of the Zot Face, the West Chimney raps seemed like a logical descent since they are, I dunno, 100 feet away from the top of the climb. I've done the East Slabs descent also, and that is definitely a good choice. I apologize to the hordes of other climbers who were starting up routes while we were rapping down (oh, that's right, there weren't any).

I think people can flame all they want, but as long as there are fixed rap anchors in the West Chimney, even "gumbies" like me, who ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Great Zot (5.8+)
By: Brice W When: Jul 21, 2002

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Comments: This is a fun route. We climbed the Zot face at the top (I think), though I never found the 8+ section Rossiter mentions in his book. After doing the spectacularly exposed hand traverse at the start of pitch 4, I traversed right on small ledges and holds, up a flake, and belayed at a ledge with a small tree (this is the tree all by itself in the middle of the face). From here I traversed right about 15 feet, then climbed up a dihedral. From there I climbed thin flakes and face holds, trendin... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Brice W When: Jul 9, 2002

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Comments: This is a classic climb. The finger/hand crack on P2 is flared, but it is fun to climb and takes gear well so you can sew it up. The chimney on P3 is not bad at all. Smaller cracks allow you to protect it well (though it is nice to have a #4 Camalot or equiv. to sew up the bulge as stated above), and the awkward section is not sustained. The climbing after the chimney is easy, but interesting.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Brice W When: Jun 24, 2002

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Comments: Great route! As described in the comment above, the route does combine well into three pitches, though you will have some rope drag. The runout start is all there, but you do have to make some moves on small holds. Rossiter's book says extra #2.5 or #3 Camalots may be useful. The only place you'd need two of those would be towards the top of the flake on P1. I only had one, so there was a bit of a runout (15 feet, maybe?), but the climbing was not too hard. The 8+ section seeme... more >>


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