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Member Since: Jul 31, 2001
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 97 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 40 | Posts 18 | Stars 21 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Ptarmigan Fingers.

Ptarmigan Fingers.

Forums > Colorado > ... > Post

Oct 5, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: E Face of Notchtop.

E Face of Notchtop.

Forums > Colorado > ... > Post

Oct 5, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: E Face of Notchtop.

E Face of Notchtop.

Forums > Colorado > ... > Post

Oct 5, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the third pitch.

Looking up at the third pitch.

Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > ... > Northwest Face Route - That... (WI3-4)

Nov 17, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Sundance Buttress > Kor's Flake (5.7+)
By: Brice W When: Aug 7, 2001

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Comments: I don't recall using big gear for the hand traverse, but I did use some on the squeeze chimney. For the chimney, trying to stay at least partly outside is the way to go, I think. I stayed too far inside and made it hard on myself. The 4th pitch is classic. That and the 2nd pitch (both 5.7+ in Rossiter's guide) felt about ten times easier than the chimney. Don't bother looking for nice ledges for the belay after the 2nd pitch, there aren't any.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Notchtop > Spiral Route (5.4)
By: Brice W When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: I agree with the comments about that last pitch. If you go up the headwall with a small roof, it definitely feels like 5.7. Unfortunately I found this out by leading it in my mountaineering boots (we'd left our rock shoes at home). Had I not been trembling and cursing my luck for deciding to lead that pitch (there was some wet rock also), I think it would have been enjoyable. I do remember a fixed pin in one of the cracks. Once you get to the top, be prepared for an exposed, slightly hairy ... more >>


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... > The Notch Couloir (5.4 Mod. Snow)
By: Brice W When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: It is a good idea to check on conditions before heading out to do this route. My wife and I climbed the Notch this year in early July. Even then, much of the snow in the couloir had melted. We did get some alpine ice higher up, though it was mixed with kitty litter in a narrow chimney. Though we bivyed below Mill's Glacier and started early, the snow that was there was quite soft. We actually traversed out to the right (North) of the couloir before the top and climbed up some nice, 4th clas... more >>


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Book > The Pages Wall Area > Osiris (5.7+)
By: Brice W When: Aug 1, 2001

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Comments: Fun climb! It does seem fairly sustained, but the protection was excellent, which is always nice. The fact that I wasn't feeling too strong that day and that it was my first time climbing the route led me to fire in pieces every two or three feet in places. The downclimb is easy to find if you follow the description in the guidebook, but it seemed harder to us in spots than 4th class.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Wind Tower > Wind Tower - SW Face > Wind Ridge (5.7)
By: Brice W When: Jul 31, 2001

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Comments: I tried the alternate belay after the first pitch, and it does offer much better pro than the traditional large ledge with the piton-scarred crack. I think you could also run the first two pitches together with a 60M rope as long as your belayer wasn't too far from the bottom of the first pitch. The third pitch is a fun way to finish the climb, but the start always feels way more strenuous than 5.6 to me. Of course, that may have more to do with my lack of finesse or grace than actual difficul... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part A - Versc... > Verschneidung Dihedral (5.7)
By: Brice W When: Jul 31, 2001

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Comments: This is a fun climb. With a 60M rope, you can make it down to the belay tree. The rap from there does require about 10 feet of straightforward downclimbing, but it's nothing terrible. The hardest part of the climb for me always feels like the moves to get up to the bottom of the crack. The crack is perfect, and there are plenty of holds on the face for variety.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part C - Pony ... > Mesca-Line (5.7+)
By: Brice W When: Jul 31, 2001

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Comments: A #3 Camalot is a good size to plug into the flake before making the move to get into the undercling.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part B - Long ... > The Unsaid (5.9)
By: Brice W When: Jul 31, 2001

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Comments: This is a fun route, but I agree about it being a one or two move wonder. It doesn't feel like a 5.9 if you are tall, either (I'm 6'4"). On the thin crack before traversing out on the face, I was only able to get in some quite small nuts, #3s and #4s BD.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > Rewritten (5.7)
By: Brice W When: Jul 31, 2001

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Comments: This is a great route. The hand traverse on the 4th pitch looks harder than it really is. I agree that the first pitch isn't one you can really sew up. I'll have to try out that alternate belay after the 4th pitch. I've always stopped at the large ledge about 10 feet up and left from the loose block. From there, continuing up the Arete, you can run the last two pitches together without too much rope drag.


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Moraine Park/Fern Lake Trai... > Jaws Falls (WI4)
By: Brice W When: Jan 25, 2010

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Comments: As of Jan 2010, there is an intermediate anchor consisting of two beefy bolts in the rock 30m up. The anchor is on the left as you climb or rap.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... > Tennish Anyone? (5.10a)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: I don't know if this is the normal start, but I climbed straight up some fun face, cracks and grooves to below the roof, then bypassed it on the right to gain the face and head up and left for the first bolt. It was not hard. At the top, I headed right to the crack after clipping the last bolt since I couldn't figure how to go straight up the bolt line.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Super Hits - Bloody Fingers > Bloody Fingers (5.10a)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: There is a pretty good stance at the beginning to reach up and place gear that will get you through most of the crux, so the lieback didn't seem too bad. Outstanding route!


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Bath Rock > Bath Rock - West > Private Idaho (5.9)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: This route looks steep but all the great stems make it easier than it looks. Great fun and good gear.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Elephant Rock > Elephant Rock - North > Just Say Go (5.10a)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: Gear is definitely nice to have for getting off the ledge, but I don't remember wanting any more for the top - maybe I was just getting used to the COR runouts at that point! Fun route.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Elephant Rock > Elephant Rock - East > Columbian Crack (5.7)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: This is a fun crack that you don't have to jam much because of all the face holds. I wouldn't do it before Rye Crisp or Wheat Thin, but definitely worth doing if you are at Elephant Rock.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Parking Lot Rock > Parking Lot Rock - East > Beauty and the Beast (5.10a)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: This felt easier to me than Tow Away Zone. You can also head left at the top easily to get to the JAPF anchors.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Parking Lot Rock > Parking Lot Rock - East > Tow Away Zone (5.10a)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: The stances were a little tenuous, but I got a good camalot and alien in before the bolt, so it didn't feel too spicy. Great route!


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Parking Lot Rock > Parking Lot Rock - Northeas... > Thin Slice (5.10a)
By: Brice W When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: This felt more sustained to me than Bloody Fingers, but still great fun. The bottom part does climb like a sport climb. The whole route took great gear. A 60M rope doesn't quite reach down to the nice ledge for the TR.


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Moraine Park/Fern Lake Trai... > Jaws Falls (WI4)
By: Brice W When: Aug 7, 2008

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Comments: In fat conditions (like winter 2007-08) this felt 3+, about the same as Pumphouse in Vail, but longer. Great route, it goes in a nice long pitch. Traversing over to the tree rap anchor at the top was a bit exciting as my last screw was way below me. There is a small, but decent ledge to traverse on, but I didn't find many good pick or hand holds.


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... > The Flying Dutchman (5.4 WI2-3)
By: Brice W When: Aug 7, 2008

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Comments: Climbed this 6/7/08. It was not long after a spring storm, so we kicked steps up this to the Loft, got a break on the Clark's Arrow traverse, and then kicked steps to the top. The ice at the crux took one 17cm screw, but there are plenty of placements in the rock to the left of the ice. The cracks are mostly parallel, so cams are a good call. It's a fun snow climb and combined with Clark's Arrow and a descent of the Cables route, a great traverse of Long's.


Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Walt's Wall > Satterfield's Crack (5.8)
By: Brice W When: Aug 7, 2008

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Comments: Fun climb! As of July, slinging two chockstones in the squeeze chimney provided decent protection for the standard finish. I put a #3 Camalot in before the chimney, slung a baseball-sized chockstone low, and then it was about 10 feet of slithering before I could sling the volleyball-sized chockstone. A long runner helped avoid too much rope drag. Starting the second pitch is definitely #4 Camalot or larger territory.


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