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Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 15 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 950
Total Points: 851
Last Year: 63
Last 30 Days: 15
30 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1191 | Routes 41 | Areas 3 | Photos 45 | Page Improvements | Comments 171 | Posts 207 | Stars 405 | Ratings 319
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Fuzzy Undercling (5.11b) : Photo
By: BrianWS When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Safety first is always groovy, as is personal choice. But if you need a helmet on such an overhanging, well bolted, and relatively moderate route you should probably consider wearing one 24/7.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Unknown face climb (5.11)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: There is a possibility that this route may actually be A Ketchum and Umbel Day, 10+R.

If I'm not mistaken, K&U Day climbs the face just to the right of the mid-to-upper portion of the Stolen Kisses crack system. I found the movement on this "unkown" route to be far more difficult than 5.10 -- definitely in the mid to hard 5.11 range. Also, unless I totally missed something, there was no gear from the ledge to just below the anchors, which would... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Stolen Kisses (5.9)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 13, 2016

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Comments: There are brand new fixed anchors for this route. Thank you NRAC, I presume.

A great way to pass the time while waiting for the hordes on Legacy to clear out.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area : ... : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Nov 8, 2016

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Comments: J&T was definitely harder for me... Much more beta intensive. Probably the hardest of the Honeymooner's 12b's IMO. Harlequin went down second go, J&T took serious work to dial in.

Sacrilege is the most height and body dependent of them all - you need a "goldilocks" just right height of about 5'6-9, or you're either too scrunched or too short to do the move comfortably. I flashed it, bu... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : Grit and Bear It (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 8, 2016

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Comments: Sorry to hear about your friend's fracture - sounds like he was given a hard catch (spiked), because there are no ledges or other features to collide with on route, unless he made it all the way down to the first or second bolt. If that is the case, he should be swatting his belayer in the balls with his good hand.

The bolts get spaced at the top and there is a slight swing to the fall, but it is by no means runout -- especially if climbing sport at the New. An attentive bel... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area : ... : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Such a great climb - way more consistent and sustained than Sacrilege, but without the ultra hard crux. "12b" if you compare it to its neighboring routes, probably harder elsewhere in the gorge. How did it stack up to J&T and Sacrilege in your opinion?


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Tony the Tiger (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 3, 2016

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Comments: Getting to a clipping hold for the anchors is arguably the hardest move on this climb. There are also quite a few ways to bypass some of the harder movement lower on the route - the closer to the bolt line you stick, the harder the climbing is. Mid 5.11 is pretty fair, but definitely feels easier than other more sustained routes of the grade due to the good rests throughout.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Sandstonia
By: BrianWS When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Jamie -
The area has always been home to loose rock, and given the moderate nature of the climbing, it will continue to remain so despite the huge amount of traffic.

This is a primarily beginner crag, and being full of inexperienced climbers, the use of chalk markers tends to be way overzealous and in many cases definitely not necessary. Furthermore, it is ugly as hell and a big eyesore. The comment about disregarding the chalk marks is partially meant to dissuade new climbers from marking the... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : The Other Place : B-52 (5.13a)
By: BrianWS When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: The same deformation has happened on other routes that go through large roofs (for example, depth charge's second roof bolt). People whip away on these loose hangers, which messes the bolts up.

Just a reminder that if possible, please be a good steward and tighten any loose nuts hat you find before the hanger is able to move far enough away from the rock for a fall to bend the bolt out of shape.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Gunsight to South Peak (5.3)
By: BrianWS When: Oct 12, 2016

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Comments: ...or just keep it simple and build an anchor with your rope.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : The Cirque : ... : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: Congrats on the proud, proud send. You chubby bastard.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Freaky Stylee (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: Oct 9, 2016

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Comments: Seen it sent by multiple climbers around the same height, some of them very easily -- Static beta exists for shorter folks, though a bit more involved. But per usual at the Gorge, expect to work harder the shorter you are.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Long Wall : Going Ballistic (5.10d)
By: BrianWS When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments: Many of the Long Wall routes had their names changed in the latest guides, presumably to reflect the FAs' original names for their lines.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Bubba Buttress : Duck In A Noose (5.8)
By: BrianWS When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Fair enough - you guys are the admins here after all. Not addressing the lack of awareness/know how/common sense isn't going to make the problem any better for certain as traffic increases, and that's a guarantee.

It's a matter of time before this kind of crap creeps it's way into endless and the other crags that have so far repelled the hordes each weekend. In my opinion, its better to do something about it at som... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Bubba Buttress : Duck In A Noose (5.8)
By: BrianWS When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: Chris - the constant "safety" reports of loose hangers without taking responsibility to fix the issue, ridiculous chalk warning signs, and other unintentionally obnoxious behaviors are becoming such a common theme at popular crags within the New. It's only going to get worse as the area becomes more and more popular with newer climbers.

Maybe it's time to add a disclaimer or area ethics disclaimer at the main page for each of... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv...
By: BrianWS When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Daniel -- The collesium thru circus wall are always above water, barring floods or other anomolous conditions. Whippoorwill and Pirates Cove are accessible during low water only. Not sure where the confusion came from, as this info is pretty clearly indicated.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Pirate's Cove : Indian Summer (5.10c)
By: BrianWS When: Aug 5, 2016

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Comments: Should be fine in early sept. Check here for daily updates and historical info:

lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wm/?basi...


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Long Wall
By: BrianWS When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: The names in the 2007 guidebook were likely not the ones originally given by the first ascentionists. They have since been revised in the updated guides and Rakkup content.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Gift of Grace, The (5.12b)
By: BrianWS When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: Some of the bolt spacing during the first half of the route is less than ideal. The early portion of the route is scary and insecure if placing draws on the go, and blowing the first crux (bolt 3-4) has a nasty swinging fall onto a slab/into a low roof. This is an extremely committing move, especially if you don't have long draws already hanging. The rest of the route has clean, albeit very big, falls onto brand new hardware and shouldn't be missed.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Marshall's Madness - Crack ... (5.10a)
By: BrianWS When: Jul 8, 2016

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Comments: The second pitch by itself is 10a, just a bit harder and more sustained than the 1st pitch.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area : Chimpanzabubbas (5.10d)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: "100%" never suggested that you implied a gear rating. Just reiterating ample gear despite the guidebook's dubious beta.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Blackface Arete (5.11d)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: This is a very fun route, even if the upper portion is a bit of an eliminate - if you cross over from the face into the slab, you can skip some of the challenging-yet fun arête slapping and groping that leads to the anchors.
This was originally a gear lead, allegedly. After bolting, it has become a very popular warmup for folks working the 12s and 13s around the buttress.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area : Chimpanzabubbas (5.10d)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: Pro is G rated 100% on this route with a standard rack and no slinging of natural features. Sweet climb, especially the steep and featured upper headwall.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Flash Point Area : Euro-Nation (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: Tree is still there. Good route regardless of how you start it and wonderfully purile name.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : The Cirque : ... : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Those aren't ribs, they're perfectly formed rolls of fat.


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