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Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact BrianWS

Point Rank: # 921
Total Points: 770

33 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has BrianWS been climbing?










Contributions


All 1391 | Routes 49 | Areas 4 | Photos 48 | Page Improvements | Comments 199 | Posts 353 | Stars 418 | Ratings 320
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Sunkist Wall : Fresh Boy (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: I think it shares the start with the left route, mr mogley. How did the fixed hardware look? It's been pretty rough both times I went to this wall. Great climbing regardless.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area : Crag Memorial (5.12b)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 18, 2017

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Comments: New anchor and glue ins 6/17/17


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
By: BrianWS When: Jun 17, 2017

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Comments: As of 6/17/17, Mind Bomb, Toxic Hueco, Canine, and part of Crag Memorial are sporting new glue ins.

Thanks very much to whomever put in the time, effort, and cash.


Location: West Virginia : Franklin Gorge : Main Wall : Contact Zone : Roofasaurus (5.11d)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 7, 2017

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Comments: Certainly not a v6 or v7. That would put the route in the solid 12+ or 13- range. 11+ or 12- is fair -- about an honest v4 or hard v3.


Location: West Virginia : Smoke Hole Canyon : Guide Wall : Ninja Wall : Carpe Diem (5.10)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 7, 2017

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Comments: It's a blind reach direct, whereas you can clearly see the heavily chalked pocket and former bolt out right from the stance below the roof. I'd say that's a much more natural weakness and obvious line at the grade than going direct.

Either way, great climb -- just questionably equipped. It happens.


Location: West Virginia : Smoke Hole Canyon : Guide Wall : Ninja Wall : Carpe Diem (5.10)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 7, 2017

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Comments: If you follow the obvious sequence at the roof, it puts you pretty far out from the bolt - the fall looks very exciting. There is a hangerless bolt here, indicating that the route used to be bolted accordingly. Great line nonetheless


Location: Asia : East Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Surprise Crack (5.10-)
By: BrianWS When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: For the best, but slightly harder, variation, start on the crack just to the right of tigers tooth - great jams through a small roof. There is an easier variation that takes the zig zagging hand rack to the left of staircase. The harder variation still feels in the 5.9+ range and is loads of fun.


Location: Asia : East Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Oh No! (5.9+)
By: BrianWS When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: Repeated the route today. God, what a fun climb! Perfect stone, a mini roof, cool features, and great views.

Still comically soft :)


Location: Asia : East Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : First Corner (5.11+)
By: BrianWS When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: Got back on this route today -- fall potential is really bad.

Knocked my ass against the rear wall after greasing out of the flaring jam low, and the rebolt has put a bolt quite a bit out of reach during the flake section (at 5 foot 7). A fall here would put you on the platform.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : Louisiana Lou and the Tickl... (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: May 3, 2017

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Comments: Usually not a fan of "dirty" route names -- but this one makes me laugh, with apologies to Spielberg, Ford, etc.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Ames Wall : Michelin Man (5.11d)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 21, 2017

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Comments: This is quite possibly the best sport route of its grade in the entire NRG vicinity -- even compared to other outstanding 11+ lines like Toxic Hueco.

Rock quality is impeccable, and the movement and technique are highly varied. Nice view of the bridge, too.


Location: Asia : East Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : The Nut Pitch (5.8)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 21, 2017

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Comments: Climbed with Milk and his wife. After seeing me on Harp, he thought I knew what I was doing on gear and put me on this route. Nope! I think I made him sweat a bit when I was essentially soloing with a harness full of his nuts and cams.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : The Burn (5.8)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: V4 would put the route at 5.12. It is not that hard.


Location: Asia : East Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : ... : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Apr 2, 2017

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Comments: Looks awesome! Can't wait to give it a go.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Zambezi Plunge (5.8) : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Mar 31, 2017

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Comments: Pinkpointing, or leading on preplaced gear. The more you learn...


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Zambezi Plunge (5.8) : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Mar 31, 2017

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Comments: I think he's wondering about the lack of gear on her harness, in a somewhat jerkish manner. Leading on preset gear most likely, no need for Internet derision.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Whippoorwill : Bender (5.11d)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 26, 2017

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Comments: Just repeated this route and man, there is a pretty significant run between the last two bolts (20 feet or so?). There is no cruxy movement here, but the climbing is hard 5.10 on chalkless holds. It would be a clean, but very big fall.

There is a bomber cam placement (.3 BD or yellow c4) about 10 feet below the last bolt, about 6 o'clock. This definitely helps with the spook factor.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Bald Rock Recreational Pres... : Chocolate Factory : Snozzberries (5.11d)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: ... Maybe because the description isn't supposed to be a full beta spray?


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake (main) : DC Memorial Boulder : Process of Elimination (5.11b)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 8, 2017

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Comments: Lots of summersville route names got changed in the more recent guidebooks. Not sure if the FA had different names originally or if they were renamed.


Location: Asia : East Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Stone Z (5.11-)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 5, 2017

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Comments: Great description of a stout route! I remember being shocked at how hard this route was in comparison to nearby 11s - very slopey and great stone.


Location: Asia : East Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Very Inconvenient (5.11+)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 3, 2017

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Comments: Additionally, you can campus with only your left hand, middle finger off, foreskin jams optional, and wearing a blindfold to make it 15+ ;)


Awesome route, no matter if you choose to eliminate obvious weaknesses or features.


Location: Asia : East Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Noodle Line (5.8)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 24, 2017

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Comments: Fun line, led it on a few hexes when I didn't have a functional rack nor common sense. It was a full on sport-climber-out-of-his-element layback shitshow for the ages, and I think I ended up dropping a larger piece into the crack, never to be seen again.

The bolted lines to the left and right of the corner are excellent, too. Fun little buttress, and such a beautiful view of the pacific.


Location: Virginia : Harrisonburg and NW VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall : Angry Muppets (5.6)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: I've led this and many neighboring sport routes on gear. While they take gear well, I don't trust the rock quality on the blocky and easier routes, especially after blocks have literally fallen out of the cliff line with bolts and all.


Location: Asia : East Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor : Big Rock Falling (5.12-)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 11, 2017

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Comments: No criticism on your part - just commenting on a silly aspect of the local scene. Personally, I think most of the eliminate rules came about when folks who did the route saw them easily repeated by "inferior" climbers -- basically a way of defending inflated grades and egos.

Same thing happened on local boards when honnold onsighted a supposed 5.14 project and proposed 5.12c as the actual grade -- the local hardmen who had been projecting the route claimed that he... more >>


Location: Asia : East Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor : Big Rock Falling (5.12-)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 11, 2017

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Comments: climbed this with Huang Bai Le in 2009 or 2010. Really cool line, no need to constrain it as an eliminate.

Didn't feel far off from other 12- lines in backdoor when climbing the natural line, so not sure why there are so many "conditions" needed to justify the grade. In fact, some others (coach demonstrates) felt easier.


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