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Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 17 mins ago
Contact BrianWS

Point Rank: # 1,000
Total Points: 705

32 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has BrianWS been climbing?










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All 1302 | Routes 45 | Areas 3 | Photos 46 | Page Improvements | Comments 189 | Posts 286 | Stars 413 | Ratings 320
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Ames Wall : Michelin Man (5.11d)
By: BrianWS When: 4 days ago

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Comments: This is quite possibly the best sport route of its grade in the entire NRG vicinity -- even compared to other outstanding 11+ lines like Toxic Hueco.

Rock quality is impeccable, and the movement and technique are highly varied. Nice view of the bridge, too.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : The Nut Pitch (5.8)
By: BrianWS When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Climbed with Milk and his wife. After seeing me on Harp, he thought I knew what I was doing on gear and put me on this route. Nope! I think I made him sweat a bit when I was essentially soloing with a harness full of his nuts and cams.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : The Burn (5.8)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: V4 would put the route at 5.12. It is not that hard.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Captain Ahab (5.11-) : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Apr 2, 2017

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Comments: Looks awesome! Can't wait to give it a go.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Zambezi Plunge (5.8) : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Mar 31, 2017

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Comments: Pinkpointing, or leading on preplaced gear. The more you learn...


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Zambezi Plunge (5.8) : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Mar 31, 2017

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Comments: I think he's wondering about the lack of gear on her harness, in a somewhat jerkish manner. Leading on preset gear most likely, no need for Internet derision.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Whippoorwill : Bender (5.11d)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 26, 2017

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Comments: Just repeated this route and man, there is a pretty significant run between the last two bolts (20 feet or so?). There is no cruxy movement here, but the climbing is hard 5.10 on chalkless holds. It would be a clean, but very big fall.

There is a bomber cam placement (.3 BD or yellow c4) about 10 feet below the last bolt, about 6 o'clock. This definitely helps with the spook factor.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Bald Rock Recreational Pres... : Chocolate Factory : Snozzberries (5.11d)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: ... Maybe because the description isn't supposed to be a full beta spray?


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : DC Memorial Boulder : Process of Elimination (5.11b)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 8, 2017

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Comments: Lots of summersville route names got changed in the more recent guidebooks. Not sure if the FA had different names originally or if they were renamed.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Stone Z (5.11-)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 5, 2017

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Comments: Great description of a stout route! I remember being shocked at how hard this route was in comparison to nearby 11s - very slopey and great stone.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Very Inconvenient (5.11+)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 3, 2017

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Comments: Additionally, you can campus with only your left hand, middle finger off, foreskin jams optional, and wearing a blindfold to make it 15+ ;)


Awesome route, no matter if you choose to eliminate obvious weaknesses or features.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Noodle Line (5.8)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 24, 2017

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Comments: Fun line, led it on a few hexes when I didn't have a functional rack nor common sense. It was a full on sport-climber-out-of-his-element layback shitshow for the ages, and I think I ended up dropping a larger piece into the crack, never to be seen again.

The bolted lines to the left and right of the corner are excellent, too. Fun little buttress, and such a beautiful view of the pacific.


Location: Virginia : Harrisonburg and NW VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall : Angry Muppets (5.6)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: I've led this and many neighboring sport routes on gear. While they take gear well, I don't trust the rock quality on the blocky and easier routes, especially after blocks have literally fallen out of the cliff line with bolts and all.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor : Big Rock Falling (5.12-)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 11, 2017

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Comments: No criticism on your part - just commenting on a silly aspect of the local scene. Personally, I think most of the eliminate rules came about when folks who did the route saw them easily repeated by "inferior" climbers -- basically a way of defending inflated grades and egos.

Same thing happened on local boards when honnold onsighted a supposed 5.14 project and proposed 5.12c as the actual grade -- the local hardmen who had been projecting the route claimed that he... more >>


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor : Big Rock Falling (5.12-)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 11, 2017

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Comments: climbed this with Huang Bai Le in 2009 or 2010. Really cool line, no need to constrain it as an eliminate.

Didn't feel far off from other 12- lines in backdoor when climbing the natural line, so not sure why there are so many "conditions" needed to justify the grade. In fact, some others (coach demonstrates) felt easier.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Family (5.11)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 11, 2017

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Comments: Nah, I sent this well before I sent any "real" LD 5.12s. With the right beta and good conditions, a 5.11 climber would be fine on this route.

That being said, it is doesn't have (as I recall...) any of the ultra bomber rests that most 12- lines have at LD, often just before the crux. A very good line regardless of grade or difficulty.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : A Ketchum and Umbel Day (5.11)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: Thanks for the update! Route info has been changed accordingly - please let me know if there is anything you'd like to add.

Oh, and kudos on the ballsy lead!


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (7) Second Cave : Zhong Jiang Soup (5.11)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 25, 2017

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Comments: Glad to see this route got re-equipped with solid hardware and better bolt placement. Especially the roof bolts...


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Through the Never (5.12b)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 6, 2017

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Comments: This is a hard-as-nails 12b, not unlike many other Endless Wall 12b's. Tough and sustained with some very uncomfortable fall potential.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge
By: BrianWS When: Dec 10, 2016

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Comments: In response to Brian Lockard's question:

rakkup.com/guidebooks/red-rive...


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Fuzzy Undercling (5.11b) : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Dec 6, 2016

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Comments: Safety first is always groovy, as is personal choice. But if you need a helmet on such an overhanging, well bolted, and relatively moderate route you should probably consider wearing one 24/7.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : A Ketchum and Umbel Day (5.11)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: There is a possibility that this route may actually be A Ketchum and Umbel Day, 10+R.

If I'm not mistaken, K&U Day climbs the face just to the right of the mid-to-upper portion of the Stolen Kisses crack system. I found the movement on this "unkown" route to be far more difficult than 5.10 -- definitely in the mid to hard 5.11 range. Also, unless I totally missed something, there was no gear from the ledge to just below the anchors, which would... more >>


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area : ... : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Nov 8, 2016

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Comments: J&T was definitely harder for me... Much more beta intensive. Probably the hardest of the Honeymooner's 12b's IMO. Harlequin went down second go, J&T took serious work to dial in.

Sacrilege is the most height and body dependent of them all - you need a "goldilocks" just right height of about 5'6-9, or you're either too scrunched or too short to do the move comfortably. I flashed it, bu... more >>


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : Grit and Bear It (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 8, 2016

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Comments: Sorry to hear about your friend's fracture - sounds like he was given a hard catch (spiked), because there are no ledges or other features to collide with on route, unless he made it all the way down to the first or second bolt. If that is the case, he should be swatting his belayer in the balls with his good hand.

The bolts get spaced at the top and there is a slight swing to the fall, but it is by no means runout -- especially if climbing sport at the New. An attentive bel... more >>


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area : ... : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Such a great climb - way more consistent and sustained than Sacrilege, but without the ultra hard crux. "12b" if you compare it to its neighboring routes, probably harder elsewhere in the gorge. How did it stack up to J&T and Sacrilege in your opinion?


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