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Rock Climbing Photo: Eiger summit


Member Since: Sep 27, 2001
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,029
Total Points: 803
Last Year: 113
Last 30 Days: 2
38 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 988 | Routes 6 | Areas 5 | Photos 87 | Page Improvements | Comments 233 | Posts 598 | Stars 10 | Ratings 49
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Yup...you are right on. Your chimney was a good reference. It is exactly 29 feet from the highest point to the lowest point of the main cliff. The Firewall is 22 feet. I did some climbs on Firewall that I haven't done in at least 20 years. The rock is as chossy as I remember it.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Firewall
By: Brian When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: When we lobbied the RI DEM back in the Spring of 2010 to specifically include climbing in the new "RI Park and Management Area Rules and Regulations" they had included a provision about no fixed gear. Working behind the scenes we got that taken out. So bolting is neither approved nor prohibited. So if you are discreet about it then it shouldn't be a problem.

From the DEM regulations:

17.9 Rock climbing is permitted at state parks, and management areas except at Fort Wetherill State Park... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: Jeff, Main cliff 35 feet tall? Did you measure it? I doubt it is that tall. More like 20 feet tall. I was there today. Next time I'm there I'll measure it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Black Wall (aka Happy Acres... : All that, Jazz (5.8) : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: Isn't this the same pitch as Geriatric Therapy? It sure looks the same.

mountainproject.com/v/10804631...


Location: Europe : Turkey
By: Brian When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: With an exception of a small portion of Turkey where there are no major climbing areas Turkey is in Asia not Europe. It is in the wrong area.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Main Wall : Main Wall
By: Brian When: Feb 8, 2016

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Comments: I asked Whitey about this climb. He said the roof was done 2 ways, one direct at 5.11 by Mack Johnson contrived because of off routing holds to the left and he believes that the line of least resistance was lead by Team Tough (5.10).
He also gave me the names of a couple of the lines that were previously done.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Main Wall : Main Wall
By: Brian When: Feb 6, 2016

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Comments: As far as I know it has never been done but some of the guys who climbed here way back (Whitey and Neil) may know more about it. It looks hard. You can see the crack in the topo photo here. climbri.org/mttom.htm


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Main Wall
By: Brian When: Jan 29, 2016

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Comments: And everyone always wore socks with our climbing shoes.


Location: Europe : Switzerland : Eiger : Ostegg Hut to Mittellegi Hu... (5.9) : Photo
By: Brian When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: Here you go...this is a shot of the same glacier I took ten years earlier. August 1st 2005.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eismeer glacier from Mittellegi hut.
Eismeer glacier from Mittellegi hut.



Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Breakheart Ledge
By: Brian When: Jan 5, 2016

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Comments: Glad you are getting out there. The area needs some love. Be careful, I pulled a 50lb block off one of the routes on the right end.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Children's Crag
By: Brian When: Jan 3, 2016

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Comments: That climb is called Zee Bee Dee or something like that. I agree it is no 5.10. At the Gunks 5.8 tops.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Comment : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 26, 2015

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Comments: Hog Nose snake. Also known as a Puff Adder.


Location: NH : WM: Oliverian Notch : Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian... : Big Wall : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: "Your topo looks to me what I would call the right hand route."

CORRECTION: I'm not sure which right hand route you mean? The very right hand route is the 5.5 grungy corner. Revelations, as I did it, is multi-pitch but according to Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing New England" it shares the first pitch belay with Energizer and then finishes up Energizer. Green's line matches my route except he has it as three pitches and I'm pretty sure I did it as two.


Location: NH : WM: Oliverian Notch : Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian... : Big Wall : Spare Ribs (5.11+ R)
By: Brian When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: "Because this cliff is Basalt, hand drilling bolt holes was slow and arduous."

Basalt? It doesn't look like basalt so I looked it up. According to the USGS it is granite.
pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1516/report.pdf


Location: NH : WM: Oliverian Notch : Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian... : Big Wall : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 11, 2015

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Comments: Here's my contribution to the topos. This is the only route I remember and remember may be an overstatement as I did it a long time ago. So if anyone wants me to accurize it let me know where it is off. The route is Revelations 5.10- on the right (east) end of the cliff.
Go along the east end of the cliff until you get to a grungy left arching corner. This is where the relatively clean slabs end. To the left of that look up and you should see a bolt(s). There are two routes here. The one ... more >>


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: I think that the person was trying to do the right thing in painting the hanger but just doesn't have much knowledge/experience. So instead of the default Mountain Project response of beating on him/her I think it is a better approach to provide some constructive guidance. If you want to paint the hanger and bolt while on the rock you can get a piece of thin cardboard and trace the hanger on that. Then cut that out so that the cardboard just fits over the hanger. Place the cardboard over the... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area
By: Brian When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: I climbed on a small cliff off of Meadowbrook trail many years ago. It is not actually in the Carolina Management area. It is on private land just north of Kenyon Hill Trail. That's the only one I know of in that area.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area
By: Brian When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: This shows the directions to get there. It also shows routes we led on gear but there are some overhanging potential boulder problems on the left (south) edge of the cliff. climbri.org/breakheart.htm A mountain bike is the best way to get there.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area
By: Brian When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: There is a fairly large (by RI standards) cliff in the woods north west of Breakheart Pond. I would think that boulderers would find it interesting. The crux is finding it. It is much easier to find in the winter than when leaves are on the trees. If you want directions message me.


Rock Climbing Photo: Breakheart cliff
Breakheart cliff



Location: Rhode Island : Rocky Point
By: Brian When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: If you are going to top out you will want a rope in many places. It is 25 feet tall in some spots with rocks below.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : The Grey Matter Area
By: Brian When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: This is a duplicate entry for the Gray Matter Route. I believe that this has always been considered part of the Feather Ledges.

mountainproject.com/v/9-wall-f...


Location: Photo
By: Brian When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: I've done a bit quite a few years ago. We attempted a north face route on the Eiger but it was in the summer and too warm. Waterfalls were running everywhere blocking our route. We made the summit via the Mittellegi route. There is so much rock there you can spend your life in Switzerland and never have to climb the same route.


Location: Europe : Switzerland : Eiger : Ostegg Hut to Mittellegi Hu... (5.9) : Photo
By: Brian When: Oct 1, 2015

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Comments: It is amazing on how much the glacier has shrunk. I was there ten years ago in July and it was much bigger.


Location: NH : WM: Kinsman Notch
By: Brian When: Aug 28, 2015

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Comments: To access the northern cliffs on the east side of the road park at the Appalachian Trail trailhead parking lot. Walk across the road and look for a faint trail. From here you can see the cliffs. Skirt along the bottom of the cliff looking for bolts and climbs. Have fun.

Rock Climbing Photo: Kinsman View from RT 112
Kinsman View from RT 112



Location: NH : WM: Kinsman Notch
By: Brian When: Aug 28, 2015

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Comments: To access the southern most cliffs at Kinsman park on Lost River Road (RT 112)on the east side by an phone/electrical box. The electrical box is on the right side of RT 112 about 4.2 miles from the traffic light in North Woodstock. Go in the woods directly behind the box and you should find a cairn to the left. Follow the trail with surveyors tape on the trees to the lower cliff not seen in the picture. When you can see the lower cliff you will be on what looks like an old logging trail that go... more >>


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