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Member Since: Mar 12, 2002
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 802
Total Points: 872

9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Petsfed been climbing?


All 1634 | Routes 56 | Areas 13 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 324 | Posts 940 | Stars 173 | Ratings 93
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Contributed Comments


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Petsfed When: Dec 2, 2016

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Comments: Please please PLEASE don't rappel down the chimney. If you have two ropes, you can rappel down the face to climber's left of the chimney with dual 60s, and completely avoid risking rock fall on parties below you, and avoid the possibility of a stuck rope.

By: Petsfed When: Dec 2, 2016

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Comments: It is VASTLY preferable to use 2 60m ropes (minimum) to rappel down the face to the left of the chimney if other parties are present.

Location: Wyoming : Fremont Canyon : The Gauntlet : Kiss of the Spiderwoman (5.9)
By: Petsfed When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: I'm not much for criticizing bolts, but the one protection bolt on this climb is too high to protect the face climbing below, and right next to good nut placements that are placed from a no-hands stance.

Awesome climb, regardless.

Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Yosemite Crack (5.9)
By: Petsfed When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: The top of this takes new and old style #4 Camalots and a lot of forearm jams. If you don't have big fists, it will be offwidth. Fortunately, there's a bunch of holds inside the crack if you've the time to look. Keeps the grade reasonable. Don't bring anything smaller than a #2 Camalot and maybe doubles of #3 and #4. Shortest walk off is to the right, but it's 4th class.

Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Cackle Crack (5.8)
By: Petsfed When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Returned to this yesterday. Those bolts are in terrible shape! Someone please replace them! Also, there really is no need for a #4 anywhere. You can always go higher, lower, or deeper. The upper crack loves #0.75 and smaller, so make sure you pack more of that size.

Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - East : Fred Rassmussen (5.8)
By: Petsfed When: Sep 27, 2016

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Comments: Seems like you could dodge the 5.8 portion of this by scrambling up 3 feet to the left. You could also bump up the grade to 5.9 by avoiding the flake to the right of the fingercrack.

Over way too fast, but a good variety of jamming. I sewed it up with singles from 0.5 to 4.

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : East L.A.
By: Petsfed When: Jul 29, 2016

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Comments: Looks like most (all?) of the stuff from Nats has been cleared out. So that means that everything else here is what is also known as Party Dome/Party Rocks.

To whit: Hang Five and Casual Corner are both listed twice.
Does anybody know if Davin's book predates the new edition of Kelman's book?

Location: Wyoming : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Region : Eagle Mountain : Jack Squirrel Peak Area : Cowgirls Dream (5.8)
By: Petsfed When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: This is listed in Orenzak's guidebook as "mainline", and it's given 5 stars. It also says that you can walk off to climbers left after doing a single rappel.

What isn't stated is that you should plan on leaving slings to do that one rap, since there are no bolts, and that the descent is probably impossible as a walk off. We left some cord. You'll need two 70m ropes to rap from there, fr... more >>

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Kasha (5.7+)
By: Petsfed When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Hand size-dependent and somewhat awkward. The crux comes high, moving through a pod that can take a #6 Camalot (although you can get s #3 and a #4 above or below that pod, without getting your feet above the pro).

There are two boulders at the top. The lower is probably safe to pull on and jam behind, the other is not long for this world and moves perceptibly if you jam behind it.

Good hand/fist crack

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Old Easy : Reverse Cowgirl (V2) : Photo
By: Petsfed When: Jun 22, 2016

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Comments: Biggest Lips in Rock & Roll is on the opposite side of the boulder from Biggest Tits in Country Music.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Belly Full of Bad Berries (5.13a)
By: Petsfed When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: I think it's more good-natured ribbing than malicious. The hard-charging off width climbing community can come off as a bunch of pricks if you don't realize they're taking the piss. And some are also just assholes. But it's really hard to tell which at first glance.

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Turtle Rock
By: Petsfed When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: Granted, but I've been climbing here since 2002, and my earliest recollection of Vedauwoo was watching my father climb Walt's Wall in 1987.

The problem is that "Turtle Rock" is really poorly defined. If you have the Halfpenny book, it might say, but in the 1977 Kopischka book, it covers only what's now known as Land of the Rising Moon.

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Turtle Rock
By: Petsfed When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Per Skip Harper, Turtle Rock is mostly Land of the Rising Moon and surrounding areas. Again, well established area, with a LOT of climbing already in place.

Your picture depicts the formation that Fall Wall, etc. sit on (a piece of rock that, so far as I'm aware) doesn't have a name if it isn't Turtle Rock.

Location: Wyoming : Lander Area
By: Petsfed When: Feb 12, 2016

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Comments: Wild iris is typically inaccessible without a snow mobile until the winter snows recede.
Killer cave, in sinks, being south facing, can have warm days year-round. That said, you'll want clear, warm-ish winter days. 45 and cloudy/windy will be intolerable. 45, sunny, and calm will be the best day of your life.

Location: Idaho : Salmon River - South Fork : Caton Creek Roadside Ice : Left Curtains (WI2-3) : Photo (Copy)
By: Petsfed When: Jan 17, 2016

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Comments: Left curtains are the left most line of pure ice in the photo.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Coyote Essence (5.11)
By: Petsfed When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: The crux of this line is holding onto the layback long enough to get to where *you* can get solid jams.
Clean, without any major cop-out features.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Jolly Rancher (5.10)
By: Petsfed When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: I felt that the offwidth pods took away from the quality of the route, lowering it from "best in Creek" to probably "best at crag". Definitely want to tape on this if your wide hands technique is not on lock.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Cat Got Your Tongue (5.10)
By: Petsfed When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: Despite being mostly tight hands (perfect red camalots), the difficulty is eased both by the slabby angle and the huge amount of face holds to stand on and rest.
Yet another example of "would be 5 stars anywhere else", this route suffers from too many quality rests and its short length.
Our rack was: 1 each from purple master cam to green camalot, 3-4 red camalots, 2-3 yellow camalots. The chimney takes finger gear in the back, so no big gear is needed.

Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Steeple Peak : West face Major dihedral (5.11 R)
By: Petsfed When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: Technically, the policy that bans bolts also bans any other fixed anchors, including slings and fixed nuts. It remains an open issue but the spirit of the Wilderness Act suggests hand drilling or placing a pin, while existing policy (which the Access Fund and others managed to defund enforcement) bans everything, including bail slings in case of emergency.

Location: Idaho : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : Comp Rock - East Face : Handy (5.7)
By: Petsfed When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: No tape needed. I will say that I wish the upper slab either stopped at the 3rd bolt, where there's a good stance, or kept going. It stops almost precisely at the 100' mark, but not really in a logical location.

Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Pistol and Holster (5.10-)
By: Petsfed When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: While I don't have the new guidebook in front of me, I've done all the routes between the Pronghorn Pinnacle and Ticks For Chicks, and all of them are present in the new book except this one. There was (might still be) a plaque with sharpy on it, indicating the name, as of when I posted the route.

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Beehive Buttress : Walking the Board (5.10a)
By: Petsfed When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: Kenneth, the Beehive tends to be the most crowded area at Vedauwoo most weekends, afternoons, or anytime people can get away from work. It even beats out the Friday the 13th alcove in terms of human density. Go early, or go elsewhere if you want to climb.

Location: Idaho : Black Cliffs : The Dark Side : Good Friday (5.10a)
By: Petsfed When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Good, stemmy route marred by some sketchy rock down low. One foothold does not look long for the world, and there's an obvious chockstone at about half-height that is inexplicably secure.

Location: Idaho : Black Cliffs : The Dark Side : Safety Dance (5.10b)
By: Petsfed When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Ordinarily I'd be prepared to admit that its just a bad size, but if the learned masters of Mountain Project call this 10b, but think Trimmed Bush is 10a, they're high. This is much easier than Trimmed Bush, and the sections with hard sizes are brief, with good faceholds nearby.
I think this is fair 10a, and Trimmed Bush is fair 10c, for a proficient crack climber.
Also, cams from #1 to #3 friend (e.g. .5 - 2 C4) will take the edge off any runout you may feel. Or doubles in that with... more >>

Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Iron Horse with a Twisted H... (5.9)
By: Petsfed When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Especially if you've been climbing steeper routes with better holds, this one will feel hard and runout compared to other 9s at the Corral. Really not worth doing unless you're trying to push your pitch count higher, and don't want to do so at a higher grade.
Its slabby, the holds are small, and the bolts are below your feet for all of the hard moves.

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