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Member Since: Mar 12, 2002
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Point Rank: # 819
Total Points: 875

9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1686 | Routes 56 | Areas 13 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 330 | Posts 981 | Stars 176 | Ratings 94
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Photo
By: Petsfed When: Jun 30, 2017

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Comments: It's the Kopischka exit (tat exit) for Slat. Otherwise, the climb goes left up that diagonal crack.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : Wango's Workshop : Tomb Raider (5.10b/c)
By: Petsfed When: Jun 24, 2017

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Comments: I was definitely wondering where the 5.9, or the 4-star part of the first pitch was. It's a fun line, and I appreciated the bolt, but that move is easier than a similar move on Oslund's Delight.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : Little John's Tower : Baobab Tree (5.8)
By: Petsfed When: Jun 24, 2017

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Comments: I felt the final traverse to get to the handcrack earned the 5.8. The hand crack itself is mostly #3 Camalots, so if that's not perfect hands for you, that bit may feel harder.

This is not at all a Vedauwoo style route, with the crux mostly involving face climbing, and requiring pretty good sling management. Even so, it's a fantastic route, and well worth the trip.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Naked and the Dead Variatio... (5.11)
By: Petsfed When: May 20, 2017

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Comments: The top of the flake felt slightly loose/flexy, so I climbed much more gingerly after the end of the difficulties, even on top rope.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Oslund's Delight (5.8)
By: Petsfed When: May 8, 2017

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Comments: I thought the first 5-10 feet were comparable to the first 5-10 feet of Nemo, and so 5.8 was fair. It eases significantly after that.

Compare also to Straight and Narrow and Satterfield's Crack. They all feel pretty comparable to me.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Overload (5.9)
By: Petsfed When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: This route has rappel anchors, but they are nearly impossible to spot if you climb the chimney right side in. Do yourself a favor: as soon as the chimney eases in difficulty, look to climbers right, up and out of the chimney.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Petsfed When: Dec 2, 2016

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Comments: Please please PLEASE don't rappel down the chimney. If you have two ropes, you can rappel down the face to climber's left of the chimney with dual 60s, and completely avoid risking rock fall on parties below you, and avoid the possibility of a stuck rope.


Location:
By: Petsfed When: Dec 2, 2016

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Comments: It is VASTLY preferable to use 2 60m ropes (minimum) to rappel down the face to the left of the chimney if other parties are present.


Location: Wyoming : Fremont Canyon : The Gauntlet : Kiss of the Spiderwoman (5.9)
By: Petsfed When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: I'm not much for criticizing bolts, but the one protection bolt on this climb is too high to protect the face climbing below, and right next to good nut placements that are placed from a no-hands stance.

Awesome climb, regardless.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Yosemite Crack (5.9)
By: Petsfed When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: The top of this takes new and old style #4 Camalots and a lot of forearm jams. If you don't have big fists, it will be offwidth. Fortunately, there's a bunch of holds inside the crack if you've the time to look. Keeps the grade reasonable. Don't bring anything smaller than a #2 Camalot and maybe doubles of #3 and #4. Shortest walk off is to the right, but it's 4th class.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Cackle Crack (5.8)
By: Petsfed When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Returned to this yesterday. Those bolts are in terrible shape! Someone please replace them! Also, there really is no need for a #4 anywhere. You can always go higher, lower, or deeper. The upper crack loves #0.75 and smaller, so make sure you pack more of that size.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - East : Fred Rassmussen (5.8)
By: Petsfed When: Sep 27, 2016

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Comments: Seems like you could dodge the 5.8 portion of this by scrambling up 3 feet to the left. You could also bump up the grade to 5.9 by avoiding the flake to the right of the fingercrack.

Over way too fast, but a good variety of jamming. I sewed it up with singles from 0.5 to 4.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : East L.A.
By: Petsfed When: Jul 29, 2016

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Comments: Looks like most (all?) of the stuff from Nats has been cleared out. So that means that everything else here is what is also known as Party Dome/Party Rocks.

To whit: Hang Five and Casual Corner are both listed twice.
Does anybody know if Davin's book predates the new edition of Kelman's book?


Location: Wyoming : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Region : Eagle Mountain : Jack Squirrel Peak Area : Cowgirls Dream (5.8)
By: Petsfed When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: This is listed in Orenzak's guidebook as "mainline", and it's given 5 stars. It also says that you can walk off to climbers left after doing a single rappel.

What isn't stated is that you should plan on leaving slings to do that one rap, since there are no bolts, and that the descent is probably impossible as a walk off. We left some cord. You'll need two 70m ropes to rap from there, fr... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Kasha (5.7+)
By: Petsfed When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Hand size-dependent and somewhat awkward. The crux comes high, moving through a pod that can take a #6 Camalot (although you can get s #3 and a #4 above or below that pod, without getting your feet above the pro).

There are two boulders at the top. The lower is probably safe to pull on and jam behind, the other is not long for this world and moves perceptibly if you jam behind it.

Good hand/fist crack


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Old Easy : Reverse Cowgirl (V2) : Photo
By: Petsfed When: Jun 22, 2016

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Comments: Biggest Lips in Rock & Roll is on the opposite side of the boulder from Biggest Tits in Country Music.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Belly Full of Bad Berries (5.13a)
By: Petsfed When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: I think it's more good-natured ribbing than malicious. The hard-charging off width climbing community can come off as a bunch of pricks if you don't realize they're taking the piss. And some are also just assholes. But it's really hard to tell which at first glance.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Turtle Rock
By: Petsfed When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: Granted, but I've been climbing here since 2002, and my earliest recollection of Vedauwoo was watching my father climb Walt's Wall in 1987.

The problem is that "Turtle Rock" is really poorly defined. If you have the Halfpenny book, it might say, but in the 1977 Kopischka book, it covers only what's now known as Land of the Rising Moon.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Turtle Rock
By: Petsfed When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Per Skip Harper, Turtle Rock is mostly Land of the Rising Moon and surrounding areas. Again, well established area, with a LOT of climbing already in place.

Your picture depicts the formation that Fall Wall, etc. sit on (a piece of rock that, so far as I'm aware) doesn't have a name if it isn't Turtle Rock.


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area
By: Petsfed When: Feb 12, 2016

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Comments: Wild iris is typically inaccessible without a snow mobile until the winter snows recede.
Killer cave, in sinks, being south facing, can have warm days year-round. That said, you'll want clear, warm-ish winter days. 45 and cloudy/windy will be intolerable. 45, sunny, and calm will be the best day of your life.


Location: Idaho : West Idaho : Salmon River - South Fork : Caton Creek Roadside Ice : Left Curtains (WI2-3) : Photo (Copy)
By: Petsfed When: Jan 17, 2016

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Comments: Left curtains are the left most line of pure ice in the photo.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Coyote Essence (5.11)
By: Petsfed When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: The crux of this line is holding onto the layback long enough to get to where *you* can get solid jams.
Clean, without any major cop-out features.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Jolly Rancher (5.10)
By: Petsfed When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: I felt that the offwidth pods took away from the quality of the route, lowering it from "best in Creek" to probably "best at crag". Definitely want to tape on this if your wide hands technique is not on lock.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Cat Got Your Tongue (5.10)
By: Petsfed When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: Despite being mostly tight hands (perfect red camalots), the difficulty is eased both by the slabby angle and the huge amount of face holds to stand on and rest.
Yet another example of "would be 5 stars anywhere else", this route suffers from too many quality rests and its short length.
Our rack was: 1 each from purple master cam to green camalot, 3-4 red camalots, 2-3 yellow camalots. The chimney takes finger gear in the back, so no big gear is needed.


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Steeple Peak : West face Major dihedral (5.11 R)
By: Petsfed When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: Technically, the policy that bans bolts also bans any other fixed anchors, including slings and fixed nuts. It remains an open issue but the spirit of the Wilderness Act suggests hand drilling or placing a pin, while existing policy (which the Access Fund and others managed to defund enforcement) bans everything, including bail slings in case of emergency.


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