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Member Since: Aug 19, 2001
Last Visit: Feb 13, 2012
Contact Brian Quiter

Point Rank: # 218
Total Points: 2,832
Last Year: 30
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian Quiter been climbing?










Contributions


All 528 | Routes 173 | Areas 52 | Photos 53 | Page Improvements | Comments 52 | Posts | Stars 194 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief : Center Wall : War Paint (5.9)
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: The first hanger on this route has been removed. The good news is that the climbing remains ~5.7 until the after you clip 2nd bolt.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Goat Rock : ... : Skullcracker (V2 R)
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 15, 2009

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Comments: Or you could toss a pad on the namesake rock?


Location: CA : Tahoe : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief : Center Wall : Bird of Prey (5.10d)
By: Brian Quiter When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: how 'bout some info on the climb?


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Feelin' Your Oats (5.10b R)
By: Brian Quiter When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: The hangers on this route have been hammered flat. I don't know if you can get a quick-draw through them, and I doubt you should trust them.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : The Bear Arete (5.11b)
By: Brian Quiter When: May 11, 2009

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Comments: I too hit up this climb for the first time in years, but want to note some changes from my original description:
1) No dyno necessary, but the crux is still tricky with crumbly feet. I agree with Eric about the ~11c suggestion.
2) There are now 4 bolts leaving ground level that lead into what I had known as the Bear Arete. They follow a seam past another 5.11 section that was quite fun and on solid rock. We did the whole route as 1 pitch, and found our 60 meter rope was long enough to lower u... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Pueblo Canyon Areas : North Rd. West : Inundator (V1+)
By: Brian Quiter When: Oct 8, 2008

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Comments: I was guessing that this would be #10 is my numbering system.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : The Balance of Power (5.11d)
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 9, 2008

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Comments: Yeah the rock is chossy throughout, I bet it will clean up if more people climbed it - I certainly did my share, but the climbing is FUN!!!!

3 stars climbing + 0 stars rock quality = 1.5 stars. I round up because the rock will probably get better with time.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : South Cliffband : Dynabolic (5.11)
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: Ditto Mono and Jason: I would give this climb the old 'bomb' rating if you were to pay any attention to the guidebooks (which unfortunately, I did), but using the right side of the climb makes for fun 5.11 climbing.

Apparently, it can also provide entertaining photo ops.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Unknown - Boulder Left (5.9)
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: It looks like there used to be 4 bolts. Now the crux (passing where the 2nd bolt used to be) is unprotected, making a 5.10 leader want to use the crack on the right and skip the best moves of the climb. Boo for crowding climbs and un-maintained bolts.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Holy Wars (5.11a)
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: Beverly's book indicates that Montana Deviate (5.9+) starts on Holy Wars and bends right near the top. This is wrong. The 5.9+ way up the face heavily relies upon using the wide crack on the right.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Route 1 (5.8)
By: Brian Quiter When: Aug 24, 2008

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Comments: There are two more ways to start this climb if you're top-roping or into unprotected leading/soloing:

The face just left of the dihedral is fun and of similar difficulty.

Also, moving right after the first couple moves and pulling a big roof is probably 11+ or 12- and is a one-move-wonder/better-bouldered-than-climbed option.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Unrelenting Nines (5.11c/d)
By: Brian Quiter When: Aug 13, 2008

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Comments: As the beta photo shows, there are now 2 bolts atop the crack for anchors and lowering. Thanks 'Mad Bolter'!


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Beastie Alley : Danger Mouse (5.10d)
By: Brian Quiter When: Jul 26, 2008

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Comments: Mark failed to mention about the first crux:

6' people might forget that its also reachy!! I'm 5'8" and was an inch too short to reach the 'thin' holds without jumping. At least I could clip the first bolt (barely).


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain
By: Brian Quiter When: Dec 8, 2006

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Comments: Gold Wall is still on private property. But that is not keeping the crowds away. Last weekend, about 40 people were there! If you're planning on going during the weekend, I strongly recommend a helmet and a lot of patience.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Castle Rock Area : The Muffins : Lower Muffins : The Sticky Green Traverse (V6)
By: Brian Quiter When: May 12, 2006

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Comments: Found it! Its above the waterfall cliff. I walked straight away from the top of Charlie's Solo, and there it was. Shouldn't be tough to find now that we know where to look.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Salt Point State Park : The Treasure Chest : Red Beard (5.10a)
By: Brian Quiter When: Jul 5, 2005

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Comments: 10a? I find that hard to believe. I'm pretty short and found a small section to be quite challenging. I don't know how anyone my height who climbs 5.10a could get up it.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Salt Point State Park : The Treasure Chest : Salty Dog (5.11b)
By: Brian Quiter When: Jul 3, 2005

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Comments: Correction:This WAS the right-most climb in the Treasure Chest. Red Beard has since been bolted to the right.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Hidden Boulder
By: Brian Quiter When: Nov 7, 2004

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Comments: really, i just guessed the first ascent info to get your attention (note the question marks)... it worked! thanks!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Castle Rock Area : Summit Rock : Bolt Filcher (5.10d)
By: Brian Quiter When: Oct 17, 2004

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Comments: Fun route, but I can't agree that it deserves 3 stars... maybe I just don't find slab climbing that exciting?


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Wrights Lake : Main Wall : The Fin (5.11c R)
By: Brian Quiter When: Oct 14, 2004

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Comments: I think this was a great route... once i aided the crux. I can usually pull an 11c move without much difficulty, but was pretty dumbfounded on this one. So i agree with aron that it's probably ~5.12 for today's standards... either that or we were missing something.

But I dont' think this route should be rated 's'. It should be stressed that you should bring a 1" cam for the top, but once you've done that you should be fine.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier : Diagonal Crack (5.10c)
By: Brian Quiter When: Oct 11, 2004

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Comments: So I forgot my guidebook this last weekend and decided to lead the Diagnol.

I made a few bad choices that I think I should mention here so that other people dont do the same.

After the third bolt (there are three on the climb, the first two are VERY suspect) the climb either goes left into a dirty 5.6 chimney or traverses right as Tony metioned.

It also looks like you could go straight up. The face is pretty well featured on the steep part as far as you can see. I decided to go up. ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Castle Rock Area : Underworld Rock
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 13, 2004

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Comments: One minor inconvienence surrounding the Underworld is that almost all climbs share the same anchors atop the rock. That means if another party is there, you've just done the hike for nothing... unless you're creative.

Equalize an anchor with a 6' sling from the tree branch atop the rock and the last bolt of Underpass. With this anchor (as long as you stay right of the other party) you can toprope or lead Poop Shoot and anything right of there.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Panther Beach : White Wall Ball and Tit Cra... (V3 X)
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 8, 2004

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Comments: The whole thing about calling this a first ascent was that the most prominent holds on the face fell off as we were bouldering our way up it. This meant if someone had ever climbed it before, it was a very different bouldering problem in the previous years. Not fair AC?


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Castle Rock Area : Underworld Rock : Poop Shoot (5.10c)
By: Brian Quiter When: Aug 30, 2004

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Comments: The block in the crack beneath the first bolt is moving. If you pull hard on it it will probably come out. I recommend starting a bit to the left in order to avoid a potentially painful breakage.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bear
By: Brian Quiter When: May 1, 2004

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Comments: Um... perhaps i should have written 250 yards up from the bubble. Also, the dead tree is gone, but you can identify the steep start to the trail by the roots on the right side of the beta pict that facilitate getting up the really lose and steep part.


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