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Rock Climbing Photo: Hawksbill


Member Since: Oct 17, 2007
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Brian Abram

Point Rank: # 1,869
Total Points: 418
Last Year: 363
Last 30 Days: 1
23 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian Abram been climbing?










Contributions


All 760 | Routes 12 | Areas 1 | Photos 53 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 16 | Posts 472 | Stars 108 | Ratings 97

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Glass Menagerie (5.13a PG13)
By: Brian Abram When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I've climbed this route as an aid route twice with zero hooks or cam hooks. We managed the "mandatory" hook move on pitch 3 by my partner standing on my helmeted head and reaching and clipping the bolt by hand. All other moves were done at 5.8 C2 with the use the tiniest Ballnut to double old style #4 Camalots.


Location: NC : Ship Rock : Main Tier : Revival (5.11b R)
By: Brian Abram When: Nov 3, 2016

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Comments: If this route was bolted, it'd be one of the most popular sport routes in the state. Absolutely classic movement for such a short route. One of the best single pitches of 5.11 around


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag : Entrance Route (5.10)
By: Brian Abram When: Nov 2, 2016

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Comments: There's gear, but it's not the most obvious. And the route is sorta hard/insecure to the first placement


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Capt Crunch (5.10d)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: We climbed it on Oct 25, and I agree it could use an anchor. It's an easy topout, and it adds nothing unless you insist on groveling under that rock at the top rather than rocking up on a high foot or traversing out right. While I don't have a problem rapping off the existing trees, it's a temporary solution at best.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Jack Be Nimble (5.11b)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: Don't blow it getting to bolt 4---it's way up there. There are legit 5.8 moves as you pull up to it.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Middle Hawksbill : Real Hard Men (5.11d)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: The crux sequence on this is harder and more sustained than Bongo Fury (.12a) just to the left


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Wall
By: Brian Abram When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: Watch for rockfall in this area, especially near the backside of Cereal Buttress near Instant Surreal. There have been big microwave sized rocks that have come down near climbers.


Location: NC : Black Mountain Range Alpine...
By: Brian Abram When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Robert,

Left Wishbone is for sure the most skiable, at least from the base of the obvious upper rock slab that I've never seen deep enough to be worth doing. Crescent sucks for skiing. Here is a pic of Crescent with skis:

instagram.com/p/BBE_YZWLgH9/


Location: NC : Ship Rock : Main Tier : Tiny Dancer (5.11b)
By: Brian Abram When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: A DMM Brass Offset #5 can be placed from the ground (height dependent) to protect the crux start well. V2/3 getting off the ground? Two more distinct cruxes above with rests before and after make this one really reasonable.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Granola (5.8+)
By: Brian Abram When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: There's gear to be placed on the traverse to make the start relatively safe, but know this section has seen its share of very serious accidents, including a broken back. NC doesn't like to award the grades of 5.7 or 5.9 very often for whatever reason. Many routes get the infamously diverse 5.8+ when 5.9 is more appropriate.


Location: NC : Black Mountain Range Alpine... : Left Wishbone (Spring Rock ... (4th)
By: Brian Abram When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Lolz. Hopefully folks will be able to find everything up here more easily now


Location: NC : Black Mountain Range Alpine... : Y Gully (WI3)
By: Brian Abram When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: This route is mostly rock hopping up the drainage until you hit 5k. From 5k to 6k is really nice, with a short section of WI3++ when we did it.

Rock Climbing Photo: y gully
y gully



Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Nick Danger (5.10)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: I followed this route several years ago and remember that getting to the first pin is scary and hard. I fell following it BEFORE I got to the pin. I got an email about the route today and thought it might be worth putting up here. This isn't my comment, but the opinion of a partner. If the Selected guidebook didn't say "the only danger on this gem is having too much fun," I would not post it. That statement is a bullcrap, dangerous thing to be misinterpreted in a guidebook. As for the accuracy o... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : The Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Brian Abram When: Apr 14, 2012

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Comments: Agree that starting below Legendary and climbing straight up to the bulge before traversing made for a well protected start. The 4th pitch had the worst gear of the route, but was still reasonable. Had a single rack of nuts and doubles of C3 #0 to a #3 C4 Camalot. A #4 could have been used, but is definitely not critical with plenty of options for #2s and #3s if you wanna leave the #4 on the ground. There are a few traverses, so bring slings.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Aunt Jemima (5.11)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 18, 2011

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Comments: This line was for sure led prior to 2009. I led it in Spring 2007, placing gear in that flake, and I don't believe there's any way I was the first.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Nick Danger (5.10) : Photo
By: Brian Abram When: Feb 2, 2009

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Comments: I only now noticed these photos...gonna have to let Scott see em