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Member Since: Oct 17, 2007
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1141 | Routes 12 | Areas 1 | Approach Trails | Photos 66 | Page Improvements 11 | Comments 28 | Posts 684 | Stars 206 | Ratings 133
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North Carolina > Ship Rock > Main Tier > Linn Cove Lullaby (5.10a)
By: Brian Abram When: 3 days ago

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Comments: My wife agrees with Shelley C's comment. She's 5'3.5" with a +2 index and the crux is honestly more of an .11+ dyno for her. I have seen some folks go far right to get past the crux on different holds.


Location: North Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Flakeview Area > Drivin' and Cryin' (5.10a)
By: Brian Abram When: Nov 24, 2017

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Comments: Led this today for the first time in years. What the shit, NC? 6 bolts in 110’. Getting past bolt one is solid 5.10. There’s another crimpy 5.10 move a bit higher. Yes, the cruxes have bolts at them, but folks should know you’re gonna be pulling 5.8 moves high above bolts on this. Some of the feet have gotten pretty polished over the years. Slip while clipping a bolt, and you might tumble 40' on dangerously low angle terrain. PG-13/R for anyone breaking into 5.10


Location: North Carolina > Black Mountain Range Alpine... > Left Wishbone (Rock Scrambl... (4th)
By: Brian Abram When: Nov 21, 2017

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Comments: Yeah, I’ve now read several accounts of folks doing it in the 90s. It didn’t exist in the 1800s. It was mostly formed in a series of tropical storms in the 1970s that caused massive landslides. A storm in 1977 dropped 12 inches of rain and resulted in the bulk of formation of this and several other slides and the giant pile of trees at the base. Though other storms have resulted in documented but less significant slides as recently as 2004

Page 23/225:
srs.fs.usda.gov/pubs/ch... more >>


Location: North Carolina > Linville Gorge > Shortoff Mountain > Golden Rule (5.11a/b)
By: Brian Abram When: Nov 17, 2017

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Comments: Decent route, but really inconsistent quality. The first 200 feet of 5.7 has lots of options. The meat of the route is 40-50 feet of crack crimping and quality steep slopers and jugs. After that it’s 100+ feet of licheny easy jugs to the top.

Beta: there’s a good right crimp above the first bolt and sloper that’s not very obvious from below that allows easier passage to the second bolt. There’s a good .3-.4 cam placement between bolts 2 and 3.


Location: North Carolina > The Dump > The Dump (Routes) > Headspace (5.13d)
By: Brian Abram When: Nov 7, 2017

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Comments: Sent by Ben Hanna November 2017: Headspace 5.13d


Location: North Carolina > Ship Rock > Better Late Than Never Wall > Tier Jerker (5.11d)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 20, 2017

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Comments: The crux comes right off the easy starting ledges. There’s a pretty decent cam placement (gold totem), but if you blow pulling the crux, you’ll almost certainly hit the ledge. Not a big fall, but enough to break an ankle. Above the crux, there’s a decent 00/.1/black alien before getting to a jug and a bomber purple camalot that protects the easy top section.


Location: North Carolina > Ship Rock > Better Late Than Never Wall > Aretenephobia (5.10a)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 20, 2017

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Comments: The traverse is exactly the same style and difficulty as Broach. Even the end, pulling up onto the slab, is actually harder than any move on Broach. It’s just much shorter.


Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > The Sanctuary > Jesus Wept (5.12d)
By: Brian Abram When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: This route is incredible. If this grade is hard for you, as it is for me, do not fear---there are no stopper moves anywhere on this thing. Getting past the second bolt has one somewhat powerful V3-4 move to a jug, and it was the hardest move on the route for me. I felt the "crux" pockets up top are V3-ish. The moves between all the other bolts are easier sequences that are very reasonable, and most bolts have rest jugs to clip from. So if you can flash V3, and if you can rest on overha... more >>


Location: North Carolina > Linville Gorge > Amphitheater > Good Heavens (5.5)
By: Brian Abram When: Sep 6, 2017

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Comments: This route is as good as Daddy and much better than Prow. The classic linkup of Mummy Daddy Prow should include this one in addition to or instead of The Prow


Location: North Carolina > Ship Rock
By: Brian Abram When: Jun 15, 2017

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Comments: FWIW, I've have asked park law enforcement about this, and I was told you can park on the side of the road anywhere on the Blue Ridge Parkway that does not have a No Parking sign except for the Asheville Watershed area, as long as all four wheels are off the pavement. That doesn't mean folks should not try to keep as low a presence as possible, but that is what I was told. And there is an argument to be made for climbers to not take up a bunch of parking at the often overflowing Rough Ri... more >>


Location: North Carolina > Ship Rock > Main Tier > The Broach (5.11d)
By: Brian Abram When: May 18, 2017

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Comments: The anchor at the top is now stainless rings. No #3 BD is needed anywhere on this climb. A single rack of BD cams from .3 to 2 with doubles of .5 and .75 will sew up the second pitch. The double fixed nuts are still in situ as of May 2017. I have no idea how to grade it: getting up into the traverse might be 5.10-, but there is no single move anywhere besides that harder than 5.9+. Nevertheless it's steeper and pumpier than just about anything else around.

FWIW, the route Aretenephobia over... more >>


Location: North Carolina > Linville Gorge > Hawksbill Mtn > Middle Hawksbill > Carpe Freeum (5.11-)
By: Brian Abram When: May 4, 2017

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Comments: I started directly under the dihedral and clipped the first bolt of Foster Care (5.11a line that heads right). Then climbed straight up to the dihedral, passing a small roof highstep move before the crux move getting into the corner. This direct version was pretty pumpy with some bigger moves between jugs, bomber gear, and it felt 5.11 to me. A double rack of Camalots from .3 to 2 will sew it up.

The bolted anchor on the front of the belay buttress drops you straight into the top of the dying h... more >>


Location: Photo
By: Brian Abram When: Feb 20, 2017

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Comments: I think I placed two 10cm screws. The rest were cams. The top did get a bit wider, but it was never super solid.


Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > North Side > The Glass Menagerie (5.13a PG13)
By: Brian Abram When: Dec 3, 2016

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Comments: I've climbed this route as an aid route twice with zero hooks or cam hooks. We managed the "mandatory" hook move on pitch 3 by my partner standing on my helmeted head and reaching and clipping the bolt by hand. All other moves were done at 5.8 C2 with the use the tiniest Ballnut to double old style #4 Camalots.


Location: North Carolina > Ship Rock > Main Tier > Revival (5.11b R)
By: Brian Abram When: Nov 3, 2016

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Comments: If this route was bolted, it'd be one of the most popular sport routes in the state. Absolutely classic movement for such a short route. One of the best single pitches of 5.11 around


Location: North Carolina > Linville Gorge > Linville River Crag > Entrance Route (5.10)
By: Brian Abram When: Nov 2, 2016

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Comments: There's gear, but it's not the most obvious. And the route is sorta hard/insecure to the first placement


Location: North Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Buttress > Jack Be Nimble (5.11b)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: Don't blow it getting to bolt 4---it's way up there. There are legit 5.8 moves as you pull up to it.


Location: North Carolina > Linville Gorge > Hawksbill Mtn > Middle Hawksbill > Real Hard Men (5.11d)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: The crux sequence on this is harder and more sustained than Bongo Fury (.12a) just to the left


Location: North Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Wall
By: Brian Abram When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: Watch for rockfall in this area, especially near the backside of Cereal Buttress near Instant Surreal. There have been big microwave sized rocks that have come down near climbers.


Location: North Carolina > Black Mountain Range Alpine...
By: Brian Abram When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Robert,

Left Wishbone is for sure the most skiable, at least from the base of the obvious upper rock slab that I've never seen deep enough to be worth doing. Crescent sucks for skiing. Here is a pic of Crescent with skis:

instagram.com/p/BBE_YZWLgH9/


Location: North Carolina > Ship Rock > Main Tier > Tiny Dancer (5.11b)
By: Brian Abram When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: A DMM Brass Offset #5 can be placed from the ground (height dependent) to protect the crux start well. V2/3 getting off the ground? Two more distinct cruxes above with rests before and after make this one really reasonable.


Location: North Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Buttress > Granola (5.8+)
By: Brian Abram When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: There's gear to be placed on the traverse to make the start relatively safe, but know this section has seen its share of very serious accidents, including a broken back. NC doesn't like to award the grades of 5.7 or 5.9 very often for whatever reason. Many routes get the infamously diverse 5.8+ when 5.9 is more appropriate.


Location: North Carolina > Black Mountain Range Alpine... > Left Wishbone (Rock Scrambl... (4th)
By: Brian Abram When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Lolz. Hopefully folks will be able to find everything up here more easily now


Location: North Carolina > Black Mountain Range Alpine... > Y Gully (WI3)
By: Brian Abram When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: This route is mostly rock hopping up the drainage until you hit 5k. From 5k to 6k is really nice, with a short section of WI3++ when we did it.

Rock Climbing Photo: y gully
y gully



Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > Sun Wall > Nick Danger (5.10)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: I followed this route several years ago and remember that getting to the first pin is scary and hard. I fell following it BEFORE I got to the pin. I got an email about the route today and thought it might be worth putting up here. This isn't my comment, but the opinion of a partner. If the Selected guidebook didn't say "the only danger on this gem is having too much fun," I would not post it. That statement is a bullcrap, dangerous thing to be misinterpreted in a guidebook. As for the accuracy o... more >>


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