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Member Since: Oct 17, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Brian Abram
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Point Rank: # 2,641
Total Points: 228

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Brian Abram been climbing?










Contributions


All 1018 | Routes 12 | Areas 1 | Photos 66 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 19 | Posts 610 | Stars 189 | Ratings 115

Contributed Comments

 

Location: North Carolina : Ship Rock
By: Brian Abram When: Jun 15, 2017

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Comments: FWIW, I've have asked park law enforcement about this, and I was told you can park on the side of the road anywhere on the Blue Ridge Parkway that does not have a No Parking sign except for the Asheville Watershed area, as long as all four wheels are off the pavement. That doesn't mean folks should not try to keep as low a presence as possible, but that is what I was told. And there is an argument to be made for climbers to not take up a bunch of parking at the often overflowing Rough Ri... more >>


Location: North Carolina : Ship Rock : Main Tier : The Broach (5.11)
By: Brian Abram When: May 18, 2017

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Comments: The anchor at the top is now stainless rings. No #3 BD is needed anywhere on this climb. A single rack of BD cams from .3 to 2 with doubles of .5 and .75 will sew up the second pitch. The double fixed nuts are still in situ as of May 2017


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Middle Hawksbill : Carpe Freeum (5.11-)
By: Brian Abram When: May 4, 2017

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Comments: I started directly under the dihedral and clipped the first bolt of Foster Care (5.11a line that heads right). Then climbed straight up to the dihedral, passing a small roof highstep move before the crux move getting into the corner. This direct version was pretty pumpy with some bigger moves between jugs, bomber gear, and it felt 5.11 to me. A double rack of Camalots from .3 to 2 will sew it up.

The bolted anchor on the front of the belay buttress drops you straight into the top of the dying h... more >>


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Photo (Copy)
By: Brian Abram When: Feb 20, 2017

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Comments: I think I placed two 10cm screws. The rest were cams. The top did get a bit wider, but it was never super solid.


Location: North Carolina : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Glass Menagerie (5.13a PG13)
By: Brian Abram When: Dec 3, 2016

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Comments: I've climbed this route as an aid route twice with zero hooks or cam hooks. We managed the "mandatory" hook move on pitch 3 by my partner standing on my helmeted head and reaching and clipping the bolt by hand. All other moves were done at 5.8 C2 with the use the tiniest Ballnut to double old style #4 Camalots.


Location: North Carolina : Ship Rock : Main Tier : Revival (5.11b R)
By: Brian Abram When: Nov 3, 2016

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Comments: If this route was bolted, it'd be one of the most popular sport routes in the state. Absolutely classic movement for such a short route. One of the best single pitches of 5.11 around


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag : Entrance Route (5.10)
By: Brian Abram When: Nov 2, 2016

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Comments: There's gear, but it's not the most obvious. And the route is sorta hard/insecure to the first placement


Location: North Carolina : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Jack Be Nimble (5.11b)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: Don't blow it getting to bolt 4---it's way up there. There are legit 5.8 moves as you pull up to it.


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Middle Hawksbill : Real Hard Men (5.11d)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: The crux sequence on this is harder and more sustained than Bongo Fury (.12a) just to the left


Location: North Carolina : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Wall
By: Brian Abram When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: Watch for rockfall in this area, especially near the backside of Cereal Buttress near Instant Surreal. There have been big microwave sized rocks that have come down near climbers.


Location: North Carolina : Black Mountain Range Alpine...
By: Brian Abram When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Robert,

Left Wishbone is for sure the most skiable, at least from the base of the obvious upper rock slab that I've never seen deep enough to be worth doing. Crescent sucks for skiing. Here is a pic of Crescent with skis:

instagram.com/p/BBE_YZWLgH9/


Location: North Carolina : Ship Rock : Main Tier : Tiny Dancer (5.11b)
By: Brian Abram When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: A DMM Brass Offset #5 can be placed from the ground (height dependent) to protect the crux start well. V2/3 getting off the ground? Two more distinct cruxes above with rests before and after make this one really reasonable.


Location: North Carolina : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Granola (5.8+)
By: Brian Abram When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: There's gear to be placed on the traverse to make the start relatively safe, but know this section has seen its share of very serious accidents, including a broken back. NC doesn't like to award the grades of 5.7 or 5.9 very often for whatever reason. Many routes get the infamously diverse 5.8+ when 5.9 is more appropriate.


Location: North Carolina : Black Mountain Range Alpine... : Left Wishbone (Rock Scrambl... (4th)
By: Brian Abram When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Lolz. Hopefully folks will be able to find everything up here more easily now


Location: North Carolina : Black Mountain Range Alpine... : Y Gully (WI3)
By: Brian Abram When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: This route is mostly rock hopping up the drainage until you hit 5k. From 5k to 6k is really nice, with a short section of WI3++ when we did it.

Rock Climbing Photo: y gully
y gully



Location: North Carolina : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Nick Danger (5.10)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: I followed this route several years ago and remember that getting to the first pin is scary and hard. I fell following it BEFORE I got to the pin. I got an email about the route today and thought it might be worth putting up here. This isn't my comment, but the opinion of a partner. If the Selected guidebook didn't say "the only danger on this gem is having too much fun," I would not post it. That statement is a bullcrap, dangerous thing to be misinterpreted in a guidebook. As for the accuracy o... more >>


Location: North Carolina : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : The Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Brian Abram When: Apr 14, 2012

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Comments: Agree that starting below Legendary and climbing straight up to the bulge before traversing made for a well protected start. The 4th pitch had the worst gear of the route, but was still reasonable. Had a single rack of nuts and doubles of C3 #0 to a #3 C4 Camalot. A #4 could have been used, but is definitely not critical with plenty of options for #2s and #3s if you wanna leave the #4 on the ground. There are a few traverses, so bring slings.


Location: North Carolina : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Aunt Jemima (5.11)
By: Brian Abram When: Oct 18, 2011

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Comments: This line was for sure led prior to 2009. I led it in Spring 2007, placing gear in that flake, and I don't believe there's any way I was the first.


Location: North Carolina : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Nick Danger (5.10) : Photo
By: Brian Abram When: Feb 2, 2009

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Comments: I only now noticed these photos...gonna have to let Scott see em


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