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Member Since: Nov 13, 2007
Last Visit: Jan 9, 2018
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Bret Ruckman been climbing?


All 16 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts | Stars 1 | Ratings

Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Fern Canyon > ... > Exile (5.12a/b)
By: Bret Ruckman When: Sep 10, 2017

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Comments: The hardware has now been upgraded to 1/2 inch stainless, with a slightly lower top anchor to help with rope drag. The second bolt is not visible from the belay stance/staging area at the base of the route, but don't despair--it is there. A 2 inch piece sets a nice first anchor for the belayer at the base. Higher up, at the horizontal crack/rest above the 4th bolt, bring several cams (or Tricams) in the 1/2 to 1 inch range. I want to thank Mark Roth for doing the lion's share of the wor... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Mountain > Ridge 4 > Ms. Coolie's Saloon aka Kil... (5.12a) > Photo
By: Bret Ruckman When: Apr 29, 2017

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Comments: Karin Budding, cranking hard as usual!

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Slab > Prime the Pump (5.12c)
By: Bret Ruckman When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: As stated above by Mike, the crux is now just past the "last jug complex", before the last clip, and requires tenacious crimping on a very small, highly-textured hold. My friend Marco, who is about 5'10'' tall, redpointed the pitch today...probably 5.12c.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Maiden > ... > Photo
By: Bret Ruckman When: Dec 15, 2015

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Comments: This series of photos from Erik Johnson, of the FFA of the rad Kor-Dalke Route on the Maiden, are some of the finest I've ever seen of Flatirons climbing. Very inspirational!

Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > The Pawn > Photo
By: Bret Ruckman When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: I think this is the first photo I've ever seen of a climber on "The Pawn", and from the 1960's no less --a total classic!

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Matron > Serpentine Dreams (5.12b)
By: Bret Ruckman When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: A few more thoughts...
1) For belaying the leader while behind the giant starting flake, we found the most comfortable spot to stand (and better see the climber) was about 15 feet east of the actual start. This gives a much better vantage point for the entire route.
2) At the last bolt near the top, head straight right for the arete. Don't go straight up, as the rock degrades.
3) I wanted to thank Eric Doub for allowing us to add a bolt or two to his old aid route called "In Spite of Love." H... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Third Flatiron > Holier than Thou (5.11)
By: Bret Ruckman When: Dec 22, 2014

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Comments: On August 12, 1989, after finishing our work day at Neptune Mountaineering, Tim Coats and I hiked up, finished bolting, and were able to send this route. That same evening "The Who" were performing at Folsom Field on their silver anniversary tour, and we could catch bits and pieces of their songs. On the hike back down, between the music, the moon, and the orange-glowing cloud, it left an indelible memory.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Matron > Serpentine Dreams (5.12b)
By: Bret Ruckman When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Using a 60m rope, we rappel-cleaned all the way down to the 2nd bolt, then finished rappelling to the base of the starting flake. From there, it was an easy TR of the first 12 feet to retrieve the quickdraw from the first bolt. By cleaning on rappel, it saved wear and tear on our rope and the anchor. However, with a 70m cord, you will have ample rope for this.
This improbable route links up in a remarkable way--enjoy!

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Maiden
By: Bret Ruckman When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: Mike Alkaitis and I just backed up the single old CMC eyebolt, at the Crow's Nest rappel, with a new bolt/chain anchor. Now you don't have to worry about the fifty year old ??? eyebolt failing. The face just below this rappel is an excellent top rope and is probably .11+ or .12a - if you avoid escaping left into "Gates of Galas" crack system. Definitely worth checking out. Curiously, there were combat-style boots just sitting neatly at the base of this rappel, with nobody else around. It kind... more >>

Location: Utah > Moab Area > State Highway 313 > Random - Unsorted > Sunset Tower (5.8 C2)
By: Bret Ruckman When: Jan 23, 2012

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Comments: On April 20, 2001, Marco Cornacchione was able to free climb Sunset Tower. After working the first pitch on several days, spread out over perhaps a year, he was able to put his project "to rest". He "French freed" the first pitch, then top-roped it, then pulled the rope and led it clean, placing all gear on lead in perfect style. If I recall, it had a thin bit at the crack switch which was the technical crux, and required some critical face holds. Above that section was a perfect off-fingers spl... more >>

Location: Utah > West Desert > House Range > Notch Peak > Photo
By: Bret Ruckman When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: Nice photo Jim! Say hi to Coats Bros. for me. B.R.

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Sparks Wall > Sparks of the Tempest (5.11)
By: Bret Ruckman When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for the anchor upgrade John. That was the cheapo way we used to set things up, saving on the cost of bolt hangers. Now, looking back, it seems like pennies we were saving, but back then it was a couple of burrito dinners!

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Hell Roaring Canyon > The Warlock
By: Bret Ruckman When: Jan 12, 2010

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Comments: Marco Cornacchione was able to free climb "Dude, That's Not Funny" back on Oct.26, 1997. We nicknamed that trip the "cruel crusade" because we were constantly getting bouted by the weather--snow, wind and cold the whole time, except for the clear and cold day that we climbed this route. On the previous chilly day, after we climbed the Caldron, I got on the first pitch of "Dude" and checked out whether it could go free or not. A huge wedge-shaped block guarded the crux. We decided to add a bolt,... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Vampire Rock > Stage Fright (5.11a)
By: Bret Ruckman When: Aug 28, 2008

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Comments: The other day I led the thrilling left finish (that Joe mentioned above), thinking that was the normal route. It was probably mid-5.11 and kind of spicy, but high quality.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrut... (5.11b)
By: Bret Ruckman When: Nov 13, 2007

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Comments: John, thanks for sharing the story behind the name "Dizzy Miss Lizzy". I'm okay with keeping that original name for this fun route.

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Exile 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Colorado > Flatirons > ... > East Ridge

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