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Member Since: Oct 18, 2010
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Brendan Blanchard

Brendan Blanchard
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Point Rank: # 1,482
Total Points: 475

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Brendan Blanchard been climbing?










Brendan Blanchard

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1488 | Routes 20 | Areas 5 | Photos 63 | Page Improvements | Comments 79 | Posts 658 | Stars 516 | Ratings 147
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Upper Darth Vadar : Three Easy Pieces (5.11a)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Really fun, kinda like a shorter Social Outcast, and about equally annoying, but not terribly hard to clean.

IMO, the best way to clean it is to tram in (belay loop/rope), then clean the 4th, and 3rd draw, then clip the tram draw to the second bolt draw, lean over, clean the first, then pull on a bit and pop the second draw out. The cleaner will take a 4-5ft swing, and the belayer just needs a solid stance. It's nothing bad, and does no harm to the rope. And unlike it's bigger brother Social, ... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering : Feeling For The Heavens (ak... (V4-)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: I haven't sent from the stand or sit, but I've always started from a sit? Kinda awkward, but offers more climbing on flat edges, probably doesn't change the grade.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Waimea : Man Overboard (5.12d)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Thanks guys, I found the tree you mentioned, and phoo does it look bad. Nice fat tree, but the slings and cord have moss growing out of them :) Didn't get a chance to rap in, but when I do I'll definitely be replacing that anchor if it's the one I need.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Waimea : Man Overboard (5.12d)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: For those who are not fully oriented at Rumney, how does the topout of Man Overboard line up with the top of Waimea, and where would you rap in to check out the topout? Is it near the lookout below Jimmy Cliff that's pretty much behind the alcove area and Things As They Are Now etc?

I have the bottom of Whip Tide pretty wired and wanted to start working on this, and could use any help I can get ;)


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Ar... (V5)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: Gave this a good chalking and almost sent today. Tis the season for slopers!


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Yosemite Boulder Area : Still Remains (V1-2)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: I did it the other day. It can't be more than V2. Once you encounter the crack you do a strange move to arrange yourself for the top lieback. It's a strange move for sure, but not terribly hard. It certainly makes you wonder what's going to happen if you fall with your leg stuffed in the hole. I'd say there's a reason nobody really does it.


Location: New Hampshire : *Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Sea of Holes (5.7)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: From the tree anchor at the top, my partner and I were able to make it to the ground in three, two rope (60m) raps. We went from the tree to the bolted belay directly below, probably about 120', then down and climber's left to the tree belay, a full 60m rap, then one more to the ground with a little rope to spare at the bottom. As always, knot the rope!

The middle tree belay is part the Stadtmuller Griffin Route, and could probably use a new sling/cord, but was still safe to rap on.


Location: Massachusetts : Cape Ann : Down Under : Left Arete Project (5.11 V3)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: I cleaned some of this off on rappel last spring and tried the start a bit. It certainly felt like hard-ish technical moves right off the ground, but holds await on the second half.


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders : Warrior (V3) : Photo
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: Where does the V4 on the right start?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Rubicon (5.10b)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Finally got around to finishing this one. I went up and left to clip the crux bolt, then came down and kept more right to pull the moves. Definitely felt a little more than 10b, and kinda similar in nature to the low crimpy crux of Millennium Falcon.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Little Big Man (5.11b)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: A fun short bouldery route. That drop-knee is deeeeep, it feels like spring-loading your leg.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : The Nuthatch (5.7)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: A corkscrew, or turning around several times can help ease the groveling feeling.


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : s. The Golden Wall : Slot Machine (5.6 PG13)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: I didn't find the gear to be awful or terribly sparse. I placed 5 or 6 pieces, and the only real run-out was the first bulge. I think PG/13 is a fair warning. Not perfect, but also not a death defying lack of gear.

After the runout, a #2BD fits very well, tucked back underneath an outcrop in the crack. You could haul wide gear up, but it would seem a little silly. It's also a lieback, rather than OW, unless you like making things harder than they should be.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Rainbow (5.6)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Sufficiently fun at the grade. Ideally, it should be led, cleaned on TR, then the TR-er should rap.

Cleaning on rappel is not terribly fun, efficient, or otherwise pleasant for your rope. I would suggest a prussik/autoblock to allow some traversing and moving to get to the middle bolts because of the roof.


Location: New Hampshire : Southern NH and Seacoast : Stonehouse Pond : The Nose (5.8)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: My first 5.8 trad lead, without me even knowing it! I always knew it was stiff, but didn't give it much thought.

Fun route, the bottom can be semi-protected by a red tri-cam in the flaring flake. After a few moves you can lean left and place a small C4 or TCU in a good flake. Maybe not R, but also not your standard protected route.


Location: New Hampshire : Southern NH and Seacoast : Stonehouse Pond : Desperation (5.10a)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: Does this start directly under the first bolt, or slightly to the right?


Location: Maine : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : Rock Lobster (5.9)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: Landonf, any word on what the lead is like? What kind of gear, and falls?


Location: Massachusetts : Redrock and vicinity : Swayback (5.9+ R)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Very fun, worth every delicate move. Extremely fun and rewarding to stick the top, not to mention relieving. The less daring could pre-place a cam at the top flake easily enough, but I think it would be much better without. Three stars if it weren't so damn short.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6) : Photo
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: Mark, I wouldn't say I was outraged, more disappointed. My partner and I had just finished Sliding Board, and headed to Cathedral to round out our day. I wanted to take him up Thin Air or Rapid Transit, but instead we did the Saigons.

The group was there when we got there, and packed up and left about an hour later, so they may have been there for 2 or more hours, someone else could tell you better than I could.

I posted the picture mostly for opinions, and overall it's about what I expected.... more >>


Location: Massachusetts : Redrock and vicinity : Rip Van Winkle (5.10a)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Jim, I think I've avoided going out right because there is glue/chopped bolt garbage on that face. If I remember, I place my gear carefully, then make a high smear/slanted toe jam with a foot (R/L?), then move my other foot up and then finish up.

+1 for no bolt. This was my first outdoor 5.10, trad OR sport. For Red Rocks 5.10 slab, it's only beaten by Morning Glory. Yeah I call 5.10 on Morning Glory, sorry....


Location: New Hampshire : *Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Sliding Board (5.7 R)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 28, 2013

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Comments: Did for the first time today. We should have linked pitched 2&3, instead we linked 4&5** and 6&7**, both are obviously run out to start, so it doesn't change that much.

The bolt on the last 2 pitches/simul finish was missing it's hangar. I failed to spot it on the way up, but another party told me it had no hangar. Unfortunately, a 70m will not link those two final easy pitches.

  • *We used a 70m, and had >15 feet left at the end of both links.



Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Illmob Boulder : Hitman (V4)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Did a hold break on the arete? I didn't climb it today, but I've looked at it before, and there was a big scar on the arete and it looked like it was missing something?


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Method Area : No Need to Be Gripped (V3)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: I'd have to disagree, I found this to be 3ish, possibly a little soft. I found Imperial Action or No Sweat now(?) to be harder for me than this. Different styles maybe?


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : X.L. (V2) : Photo
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: Ha. The height looks trivial in this picture. Not so much in person....


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering : Throng (V5-)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Really fun! Probably a V3(?) if you start with your right hand on the upper arete hold, that first move is rough.


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