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Rock Climbing Photo: Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH


Member Since: Oct 18, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Brendan Blanchard

Brendan Blanchard
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Point Rank: # 1,337
Total Points: 594
Last Year: 284
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Brendan Blanchard

 
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All 1336 | Routes 16 | Areas 4 | Photos 60 | Page Improvements | Comments 74 | Posts 631 | Stars 407 | Ratings 144
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : NP230 : West Buttress Area : Circuit Area : The Block of Shameful Lowba... : Block Party (V4-5)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments:


Well, just because. You can't shame me out of having low-ball fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Sep 21, 2016

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Comments: Oddly enough, the Haas guidebook sends you up through the Bluebell Shelter/Royal Arch area for all approaches to the Third, but this is definitely not the quickest approach for the East Bench, which is where most parties are headed.

I've timed this, and I find approaching via the First/Second trail to be about 5 minutes faster. Moving at a fast pace without a pack, the Bluebell/Royal Arch approach took me 26 minutes, and the First/Second took 21 at a similar pace. Just head ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: I'll echo what LongRanger said. At least for the NE Buttress, the route is okay, but the last section after the NE downclimb's notch is GOOD.

As for the approach and descent, there's a little irony in the fact that the approach is VERY easy to find once you've done the descent. For those who haven't done it: hike until the Royal Arch is in view up and left of you, look for three ~12"@SEMICO... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : West Ridge (5.6)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: After royally screwing up the approach, six hours of hiking landed us at the base of the West Ridge, and another five to the parking lot. A long haul, but a great day nonetheless.

As for the grade and style of climbing, I don't think "two Cathedrals on top of eachother" is a fair assessment. The style of the first two pitches is much different from Cathedral, and I think much less secure. Having onsight solo'd Cathedral in cl... more >>


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Parker Mountain Area : Barndoor Gap : Winter Wall : Delirium's Cure (V7)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Feb 2, 2016

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Comments: Cool to hear Chris, I'm kinda surprised I never saw bolts. I was hanging a long static line from a good tree setback from the edge. If he has an alternate name or comments on the grade, let me know


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Parker Mountain Area : Parker Mountain
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments: There's actually more or an equal amount of developed boulders below the trail line, I just don't have hand-drawn topos to base things off of. That said, I'll work on trying to get a general idea of what problems are where, published in the near future.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Parker Mountain Area : Barndoor Gap : Winter Wall : Delirium's Cure (V7)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jan 20, 2016

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Comments:


This the one Chris?


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Tieranny Roofs : Lifestyles of the Ripped an... (5.11b)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jan 9, 2016

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Comments: Second the anchor. The left is worse than the right I believe, though both are spinny.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : The Balcony : Undertow (5.12a)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jan 9, 2016

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Comments: If someone brings some heavier metal out to the crag, the spare biner on the chains needs a good whacking to get out. Really annoying and plugging up the bottom chain. The biner is bent out, with the gate stuck against the nose but not hooked/closed.


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Stonehouse Pond : The Roost (5.6)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: The middle slab is listed as either a 5.7 or 5.8 in the old guidebook depending on how far right you are. Both are nearly gearless, and considered TR lines. The one starting on the bulge is Son of Snake, somewhere in the 5.7-8 range, with a hard and always awkward mantle.

The next righthand route, nearly on the nose is called "Discipline" I believe, slightly harder again, and more of an eliminate than anything, though I haven't TR'd it.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : Cloak and Dagger (V2)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: I can't imagine it "fell." I've sat on the edge of that thing. Given the amount of cans, baggies, graffiti, etc. that you can find on a short walk around the area, I'm guessing someone had a lot of fun and ruined a cool feature of the cliff.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : The Becoming (V3+)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Quite possibly my least favorite V3 of all time, but that said, give it a go if you haven't.
I do a big move off the sidepull in the scoop and the arete, but the arete hand is constantly just a little insecure and inching off slowly. Desperate and annoying, but hey, I hadn't done it before in five fall seasons at Pawtuckaway, so it's something new.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : The Crimp Problem SDS (V5-)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: I think the starting move of the sit is around V5, but it's much MUCH more repeatable than the dyno. It's a hard pull off the ground, but it feels a lot more like a sure-thing than the dyno/stab to the gaston or lip.

When I could finally do V5's with some consistency all I had to do was play with the feet and the start came easily. Then it was just a matter of sticking the dyno after the sit. All in all, I can probably do the sit moves 4 out of 5 times, and the dyno/gaston about 1 in 10...


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Crystal Lizard (5.8+ R)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: I started roughly 15' to the right of the bolt, thinking it was the line. Really good climbing, but probably 9+ unprotected up to the bolt. I don't know my slab grades well, but it fell much harder than anything else on the route. Hair-raising, but very good friction climbing on small smeary dishes and the likes. Sustained unsure moves, but definitely worthwhile if that's your thing...


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Buttermilk Boulder : Runaway (V4+)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: I agree with Eric, it's a fun problem. I differ from the description in that I used a decent right hand sloper on the lip rather than matching the crimp before moving left.

Footage at 3:33.




Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Sauce (V3+)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: Footage starts at 2:00.
This problem deserves some more love. That crimp is sharp, but it's fun movement.




Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Cause for Commotion (V2+)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: Footage starts at 0:28.





Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : The Crimp Problem SDS (V5-)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: Footage starts at 1:12.




Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Method Area : Rio's Crack (V5)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: I agree, short but sweet. Very fun and will only get better when more people kick off the crumbly feet.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Swamp Boulders : Slow Vibration (V3)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: Not knowing how this problem was supposed to start, I got on it today and started on the right hand crimp/sidepull and the little nothing for the left hand. Shot left to the triangle, then fired for the edge and bumped to the lip after sticking it and putting my right foot back on. Felt pretty natural and V4/5, worth trying out for sure. I can upload a clip of it if anyone is interested.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Upper Darth Vadar : Three Easy Pieces (5.11a)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Really fun, kinda like a shorter Social Outcast, and about equally annoying, but not terribly hard to clean.

IMO, the best way to clean it is to tram in (belay loop/rope), then clean the 4th, and 3rd draw, then clip the tram draw to the second bolt draw, lean over, clean the first, then pull on a bit and pop the second draw out. The cleaner will take a 4-5ft swing, and the belayer just needs a solid stance. It's nothing bad, and does no harm to the rope. And unlike it's bigger brother Social, ... more >>


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering : Feeling For The Heavens (ak... (V4-)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: I haven't sent from the stand or sit, but I've always started from a sit? Kinda awkward, but offers more climbing on flat edges, probably doesn't change the grade.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Man Overboard (5.12d)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Thanks guys, I found the tree you mentioned, and phoo does it look bad. Nice fat tree, but the slings and cord have moss growing out of them :) Didn't get a chance to rap in, but when I do I'll definitely be replacing that anchor if it's the one I need.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Man Overboard (5.12d)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: For those who are not fully oriented at Rumney, how does the topout of Man Overboard line up with the top of Waimea, and where would you rap in to check out the topout? Is it near the lookout below Jimmy Cliff that's pretty much behind the alcove area and Things As They Are Now etc?

I have the bottom of Whip Tide pretty wired and wanted to start working on this, and could use any help I can get ;)


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Ar... (V5)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: Gave this a good chalking and almost sent today. Tis the season for slopers!


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