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Member Since: Dec 23, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Brandon Gottung
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Point Rank: # 491
Total Points: 1,406

14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Brandon Gottung been climbing?










Contributions


All 740 | Routes 66 | Areas 23 | Photos 88 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 38 | Posts 133 | Stars 352 | Ratings 38
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : unknown (Wide Hands LF Corn... (5.10+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: May 10, 2017

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Comments: I don't think these are the same routes. There is a wide hand crack through changing corners just left of Lt Uhuru then further left is this route that starts with choss.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Texas Tower Direct (5.12d)
By: Brandon Gottung When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: I wonder if this has ever been freed. Seems like 5.12d AO to me.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Smooth as Silk (5.10d PG13)
By: Brandon Gottung When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: Two absolutely classic Red Rock pitches, both full value and memorable! Another route that could clean up from some more traffic. Bring your RPs, especially the small ones!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Plein Air (5.11)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Apr 30, 2017

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Comments: Phenomenal four pitches once you get to where it splits w Twixt! Highly recommended. I felt good having one each #4 Friend, #4 and #5 C4, #1 and #2 BigBro. No #6 necessary. Sweet placing everything #2 RP to #2 BigBro!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Lone Star (5.11)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Apr 30, 2017

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Comments: Amazing route! Pitch by pitch beta for Texas Hold'em - Lone Star link for those that want it:

P1: Follow ledges to prominent left-facing corner system that merges w a fingers and hands splitter and belay at two bolts. 5.7 or harder, many options to make faster or more fun. 45m

P2: Slab left then right to varished, leaning left-facing corner. Two options: Staying in the corner past the shrub to a bolt protected traverse is the longer sustained path, while cutting right on t... more >>


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Tatooine (5.11a)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Feb 17, 2017

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Comments: A note for the next team on the route that reads this: If the blue rope is still at the tree on top of P4, I strongly recommend carrying it to the top of the climb to replace the junk show that is the first rappel. Currently, that anchor is a tied off tree (about 25 feet from the edge of the cliff) with a mess of core strands splayed about that is equalized with new webbing (~10') we added that's just tied to the rope above the coreshot. It would be a good... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ides of Middlemarch (5.10a)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Jan 23, 2017

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Comments: I thought this route was well worth doing and recommend it as a fun, mostly natural route up Sheepshead. We did the route in short pitches as described in the TooFast Topo, but I would recommend to a party solid at the grade to bring a 70 m rope and run it the way Russ commented above:
P1: 5.10, 33m: Fun pitch on scabby rock. Put your taller climber on lead; at 5'7" there was no way I could pull the first roof at 5.10.
P2: 5.9, 62m: Broken corner to... more >>


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : The Watchman : Silmaril (5.12a)
By: Brandon Gottung When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: I'd recommend skipping the tagline and not hauling. Hauling P3 to the ledge and the classic P6 is nice but, in my opinion, not worth the hassle. The #6 isn't necessary, all the difficult wide sections protect well bumping a #5. For the descent, move right staying on the ridge then move down and left, the rappels are on the left side of the drainage system. 3 30m raps in total.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : North Fork of Taylor : Solstice of Change (5.10+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Apr 5, 2016

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Comments: Great climbing on this route. The exposed position on the sunny prow is spectacular though makes the rock of a weathered quality. Based on the anchor, looks like the route hasn't been repeated since Josh and Eric were up there. Definitely deserves more traffic than that.

Two 70m ropes aren't necessary, a 60m is just long enough for the lead, but a 70m is better. A 60m tag is good for the rappels.


Location: Asia : East Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : ... : The Dawn Chimney (5.10+ PG13)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 28, 2015

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Comments: I had a great time on this route! Don't let the 10+ grade fool you - it feels more intense than its neighbors, earning it a grade IV. I didn't lead the crux pitch, but it seemed bold. Nice lead Adam! Permission granted to add a bolt to the run-out bit. That pitch earns the world class Six Star Belay! And on P7, I did a lousy job cleaning the chimney, sorry, spent all the time digging dirt out of finger crack higher up. If a follower wouldn'@SEMICO... more >>


Location: Asia : East Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : ... : Photo
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 24, 2015

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Comments: Yeah it's more Creek-esque than most of the stuff out there. It has that blocky, crisp, clean character.


Location: Asia : East Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : ... : Anti-meridian (5.11+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 24, 2015

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Comments: I did not free this. It'd be an awesome pitch but the left side of the crack has a 3 cm thick rotten shell. This shell sealed the crack shut where it narrows down so I hammered that off while hanging. With some work, it could clean-up well.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Town (5.10d)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 16, 2015

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Comments: Climb a proper full-length pitch by passing the first anchor through awesome stems. Two-bolt anchor up and right. Brown and Crunchy. 30 meter 10+.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Country (5.10b)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 16, 2015

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Comments: No need to stop at the first anchor, continue up with awesome stems then follow the widening right crack to a two-bolt anchor. It's Brown and Crunchy. 5.10+.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Dashboard Jesus (5.10+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 16, 2015

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Comments: The first pitch, Brown and Crunchy, has awesome stems, the climbing gets better after the early anchor. Pitch two, Dashboard Jesus, is a beautiful varnished corner. The belay is comfortable, making it a great two pitch outing, both 5.10+.


Location: Asia : East Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : ... : Ding Dong's Crack (5.12)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 15, 2015

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Comments: It'd be great if somebody took out that first anchor and moved it to the ledge above, just to preserve the beauty of the black rock, while still maintaining the original route.


Location: Asia : East Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : ... : The Funky Dan (5.12b)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Amazing route - one of the highlights of the trip. Nice work Nick! I just want to chime in that it has cleaned up well and nothing PG13 about it - bomber gear the whole way. Plus you can place a whole set of stoppers on it!


Location: Asia : East Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : ... : Flight of the Locusts (5.12)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Nov 21, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route to the first anchor despite its short length. 5.11d to the first anchor and nearly a number grade harder to the second anchor.


Location: Asia : East Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : ... : The Sphinx (5.11c/d)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: I recommend climbing past the intial anchor through the 20 meter extension (5.10) to make for a full value 45 meter pitch. The extension tops out on a beautiful ledge.

Also, a #6 is not needed for the climb, save the weight on the long approach.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11- PG13)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Description: Megamahedral is a high-quality route that climbs Minotaur Tower. Cross the river and follow the path of least resistance up the steep slope to the south side of Minotaur Tower. Scramble up the slabs and set a belay in an alcove below the giant right-facing corner.

P1: 5.11- 56m. Move right into the wide crack and up the right-facing corner. This is fantastic pitch on very good stone!

P2: 5.10+ 45m. Continue up the corner starting with offwidth, tampering dow... more >>


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11- PG13)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: This route description should be updated to reflect a more properly prepared ascent of the route. This line is great! And as safe as climbing in Zion can get.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : North Fork of Taylor : Tucupit occidentalis (5.10+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: The 5.8+ face finish is protectable but spicy. I think I nested a green and yellow alien in a good horizontal, grey alien in a pocket, slung a horn, then got a #3 friend in a horizontal to protect the final move. Hope you enjoyed it!


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : North Fork of Taylor : Tucupit occidentalis (5.10+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Concerning pitch 6, after following Karl on the pitch twice, I led it as a litmus test on whether it needs another bolt (I'm not bold). At 5'7", the gear was tenuous to place, but totally manageable. The lead was a rewarding challenge, and I think a bolt would take something away, but welcome any feedback. Karl established this pitch onsight, bolting from stances - super impressive!


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Oak Creek Drainages : Sub Peak of Meridian Tower : The Omen (5.11b)
By: Brandon Gottung When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: I recommend bringing extra yellow aliens. I brought only 3 or 4 and wanted another couple - 6 in this size wouldn't be excessive. I ended up linking P4 and P5 making for a super rad pitch (200' - a 60m works if the belayer breaks down the anchor and moves forward). We didn't take a #5 and were fine. On the raps, I had a difficult time hitting the anchors on top of P3. I ended up tying a massive knot with the remainder of the ropes and throwing it in the crack and pulling myself in - I reco... more >>


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Mt. Moroni
By: Brandon Gottung When: Nov 26, 2014

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Comments: Approach: There is a sandy trail that goes from the footbridge accessed via Court of the Patriarches to the Emerald Pools trail. This trail parallels Mt Moroni. I think there are some golden tablets somewhere around here. Anyway, there is a large cliff obstruction between the trail and the climbs, when hiking this trail, there is a very obvious break in the cliffs with a ill-defined climbers trail. This break is north of Plan B. This is by far the best option to approach Plan B and climbs to eit... more >>


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