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Member Since: Sep 22, 2008
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Brady Robinson
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Point Rank: # 9,972
Total Points: 45

122 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 198 | Routes 1 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 37 | Posts 29 | Stars 80 | Ratings 44
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Spearhead > Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
By: Brady Robinson When: Sep 15, 2011

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Comments: Did this last weekend, what a great route! I'd say there isn't any need to replace the crux piton. (Spoiler Alert) If I were to go back again I'd have a quick draw with a #4 stopper and another draw with a #3 RP (to be placed along its longer axis) ready to go once you pass the roof after the dihedral of pitch five. I got the gear in, got to the bolt and reached for a clipping hold...that wasn't there. Stay in the crack to clip. Took a 10 footer onto the RP, and it held no problem. The move from... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Slab > s00kr33m (5.13a/b)
By: Brady Robinson When: Aug 3, 2011

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Comments: Loved it! Well worth a few hikes up the hill. I found the tall/weak/inflexible beta which really helped. Proper foot placement at the final lip is crucial.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > West Creek > Thunder Ridge > The For Real Canyon > Reality Check (5.12b/c)
By: Brady Robinson When: Feb 20, 2011

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Comments: Agree with Monty. AMAZING! Love the final move to the jug.


Location: Minnesota > Blue Mounds State Park (Luv... > Prairie Walls Area > 5. Saturday Buttress > Jasper's Dihedral (5.8)
By: Brady Robinson When: Dec 7, 2010

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Comments: My first trad lead in 1989 with 1/2 set of stoppers and a 1/2 set of hexes. Couldn't afford a full set. The #11 hex came in real handy at the top!


Location: Minnesota > Blue Mounds State Park (Luv... > Prairie Walls Area > 8. Everday Buttress > Lechery (5.10b)
By: Brady Robinson When: Dec 7, 2010

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Comments: This was my first ever 5.10 toprope, back in 1989 or so. I went back and led it several years ago. It is a safe lead, but I was surprised at how it still felt hard after pulling the lip of the roof! This route will always hold special significance for me.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > Black Velvet Wall > Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Brady Robinson When: Oct 31, 2010

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Comments: Just climbed this for my third time last week. Simul-climbed it in 3 pitches. I still love it! Don't be afraid of the chimneys. I got a little freaked in them my first time on the route (plus we took all day to do it and went down the wrong gully in the dark, ended up drinking water from stagnant pools in the middle of the night) but that is just part of the experience. Get up on it and enjoy it! Ignore the haters. Bring a #4 camalot and just keep pushing it above you when you are nervous. For t... more >>


Location: California > High Sierra > 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge > Incredible Hulk > Tradewinds (5.11d)
By: Brady Robinson When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: Did this with Dave Anderson last week. An excellent route, with a few places that are so so. Here is some additional beta.

First of all, I would recommend using Nettle's topo - it just made more sense to me.

The first pitch felt hard for us - maybe we weren't warmed up but don't give up if it feels hard there. Stem. The RP section on pitch 4 is heads up but there is good gear to be found there. Dave used the trick where you girth-hitch a nut to an RP to extend your reach and was able to place ... more >>


Location: California > High Sierra > 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge > Incredible Hulk > Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: Brady Robinson When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: Fantastic Route! Go do it. We stayed on top of the ridge at the top which was a bad idea for several reasons, not the least of which being that we were struck by lightning. Just got a little ground current but it was enough to freak our shit out a bit. After listening to our gear buzz for 20 minutes we made a dash and found some 5.8 climbing on the ridge and then a 15 foot rap that put us just about at the top of the Red Dihedral.


Location: California > High Sierra > 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge > Incredible Hulk > Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Brady Robinson When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: Very nice route, but Positive Vibrations is quite a bit better!


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Spearhead > Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
By: Brady Robinson When: Jul 5, 2010

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Comments: Jumped on this after doing a route on Arrowhead, so it was late and we were feeling tired. Soloed the start of North Ridge to gain Middle Earth ledge and traversed across to the route, belaying the last section. This was to avoid the snow at the base and to speed things up. We didn't have any beta other than old photo copies of the guidebook topo, so it was an adventure. We got off route a few times, including the pitch off Middle Earth which I believe we started too far to climber's right. On t... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > The Texas Wall / West Velve... > Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: Brady Robinson When: Mar 20, 2010

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Comments: There is a loose hold at the top of the 7th pitch. It is a good bucket straight down but don't pull out on it or you'll send a rock the size of a large grapefruit to the bottom of the canyon. Great route by the way!


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 3 - Windy Point East > ... > Power Hungry (5.11+)
By: Brady Robinson When: Jan 10, 2010

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Comments: Excellent route! I bit of nasty rock before the last bolt kept it from getting 4 stars, but most of the rock is excellent. Bring a .4 (Grey) Camalot if you like. Webbing is getting nasty. I only did the first pitch. This could use a couple quick-links with carabiners on them instead of sunbleached webbing. Do this route.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: Brady Robinson When: Dec 13, 2009

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Comments: Climbing The Edge with Erik Weihenmayer and Charley Mace was definitely one of the greatest climbing experiences I have ever had. It was so exciting to see him climb it. We didn't know exactly how it was going to go. It went really well. Check out the video. Don't use Erik's beta on pitch 4 unless it feels too easy the other way!



UPDATE 1/5/2011: Erik's ascent was named by Chris Weidner as one of the "Top climbing achievements of the decade" in the Fr... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part D - Xanad... > Air Mail (5.10b PG13)
By: Brady Robinson When: Nov 21, 2009

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Comments: Just as Roy mentioned, there is a hueco in the left wall at the upper crux that is difficult to see from the ground. I tagged up a #4 C4 (IE new style) Camalot and it was bomber. Definitely takes the edge off the top runout and makes the route reasonable for someone solid at the grade, probably PG13 if you are persistent. Thanks to Tony Bubb for getting me psyched up to lead this today!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes > The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: Brady Robinson When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: Finally got on this after thinking about it for 2 years. While it is a little scary to climb above the gear, there are no features below the crux, so I don't really think it is an R route. You are more likely to get hurt on the first pitch in my opinion. The crux is about V3, with jugs at the top - not as bad as I expected. Put 2 #2 Camalots in and go for it!


Location: Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Circus Wall > Circus In My Pants (5.12d)
By: Brady Robinson When: Sep 8, 2009

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Comments: Fantastic route!


Location: Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Mondo Beyondo > World Domination > World Leader Pretend (5.12a/b)
By: Brady Robinson When: Sep 8, 2009

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Comments: Best route I did in the area.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Automatic Choke (5.11c R)
By: Brady Robinson When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: I gave this route a go yesterday. The gear was heads up until the pod at mid-height, but the climbing up to that point isn’t too bad. The fractured hold in the crack didn’t inspire confidence, however. The crack is just left of the arête – at the crux I reached around to the right instead of jamming the off-fingers crack and found enough of an edge to get through it. It would be harder if you stayed in the crack, but a little contrived in my opinion. Good route.


Location: Colorado > Golden > North Table Mountain/Golden... > The Quarry Wall
By: Brady Robinson When: May 25, 2009

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Comments: I've been meaning to post about the rockfall. I was up there early April and the rockfall hadn't occurred yet. I was up again May 8 and noticed the rockfall. I'd say it happened late April. Anyone in the area probably would have heard it. Bone Crusher and the other splitters are unaffected, other than a few big boulders at the base. I agree that there is probably going to be another big rockfall event at some point which will bring down the rest of the sport climb.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Cold Snap (5.11b)
By: Brady Robinson When: May 25, 2009

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Comments: Climbed the direct start last week by climbing around the easy way to clip the first bolt. It felt like a reachy V4 boulder problem and involved pulling on at least two blocks which may come out someday. The upper crack had interesting sections, but before the last bolt I used a hold that was covered in some black tar/poop and it felt like the rock quality was questionable. This route is worth it if you're feeling like placing some gear, but is probably the lowest quality route I've done at Anim... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: 20% off All Access Fund MembershipsGeneral ClimbingBrady RobinsonDec 16, 2013
Oak Flat, Access Fund and membershipArizona & New MexicoBrady RobinsonDec 16, 2013
20% off All Access Fund MembershipsGeneral ClimbingBrady RobinsonDec 16, 2013
Can Climbers Save the Conservation Movement?ColoradoBrady RobinsonOct 23, 2012
Can Climbers Save the Conservation Movement?General ClimbingBrady RobinsonOct 23, 2012
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