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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Boissal

Point Rank: # 584
Total Points: 1,180

155 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Boissal been climbing?










Contributions


All 2932 | Routes 60 | Areas 3 | Photos 126 | Page Improvements | Comments 591 | Posts 552 | Stars 840 | Ratings 760
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crescent Crack Direct Varia... (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: Base of the OW to base of the Final Link works fine with a 70. You'll be out of sight of the belay the whole time with lots of rope out in the crux traverse, make sure you're solid or you could log more air time than you care for.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Critic's Choice (5.12) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Mar 6, 2017

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Comments: Sweet shot! Mad slack...


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : The Shylock (5.12+) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Feb 15, 2017

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Comments: I think you meant "that Stella is a crime"...


Location: Utah : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Crack Boulder : Lizard King (V5)
By: Boissal When: Feb 3, 2017

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Comments: I think calling this an FA is a major stretch, I doubt it even counts as the first recorded ascent of 2017.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Random - Unsorted : The Joker (5.12+) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Dec 6, 2016

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Comments: What makes you say the tickmarks stayed? He's at the very bottom of the pitch... Preemptive bitching? That's a new low.


Location: Utah : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : War Zone : ... : Photo
By: Boissal When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: Great shot!!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Stiffler's Mom (5.11a) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: Pitch 4. Sandwiched between the 2 good 10+ pitches.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : White Pine Boulders : ... : Unknown (V3)
By: Boissal When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: FA? You can't be serious... Do yourself a favor and change it to "someone back in the 90s" and change the name to "SLC did Tennessee".
I always thought this was a tad harder than Mike's, probably V4


Location: Utah : West Desert : White Rocks : Lunar Wall : Stranger Than Fiction (5.10c)
By: Boissal When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Burly start to a thin stemming corner with enough space between bolts to keep your attention. Not as juggy as the other 10s and definitely worth a try.

There's an interesting TR to the right which climbs a blunt prow on small crimps, similar to the next bolted route to the right (the 12a). Feels 11+ ish.


Location: Utah : West Desert : White Rocks : Lunar Wall : Pocket Rocket (5.10c)
By: Boissal When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: The 2nd clip is quite committing with a number of flexy holds leading to it. Great moves on steep pockets until the top of the pillar when some big choss rears its ugly head.


Location: Utah : West Desert : White Rocks : Lunar Wall : Third Alternative (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: This shares the unnerving start of the 10c to the left with a lower 2nd bolt, making it less committing. Enjoyable climbing in a out of the huge hueco leads to a line of small pockets on a solid face. The choss dihedral to the left drops the rating and the quality a bit.

There's an interesting TR to the right of this route which starts in a honeycombed section (not as good or solid as Sputnik) then transitions to a grey shield with well spaced-out pockets. Big moves on very... more >>


Location: Utah : West Desert : White Rocks : Lunar Wall : Sputnik (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Fun climbing up a very unique set of features!
Start with some serious choss wallowing for 2-3 bolts until the angle kicks back a bit, allowing less sand and gravel to accumulate in the huecos. Follow this with fun jugs and pinches through the roof to a thinner pockety section on better rock to finish. Bring long slings if you're going to setup a TR, the anchors are recessed a ways.


Location: Utah : West Desert : White Rocks : African Gypsy : African Gypsy (5.7)
By: Boissal When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Fun mellow way to get to the top of the formation. The views are great and the climbing is consistently fun.
Bolt count: 4 on P1, 5 on P2 and P3.
As mentioned, the first pitch (and last rap) is longer but the upper 2 pitches are short and can be combined. Not sure there's a move of 5.7 on this route even when factoring in the friable nature of the holds.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Highway to Hell (5.9+)
By: Boissal When: Oct 3, 2016

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Comments: There is a short extension to this route which ends at the anchors of Dissorder. Clip the first bolt which is a touch above and left of the chains and pull through a stout bulge on small crimps. A good rest and another sandy white bulge guard the way to the top. 4 bolts, pushing 11a for a move or two.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Drilling Fields : Drilling Fields - Lost Worl... : There's Friction Afoot (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: The start of this line is a left-trending 3 bolt traverse aiming to establish on a big chicken head. Begin immediately where the stream leaves the base of the crag.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Drilling Fields : Drilling Fields - Lost Worl... : Contra Friction (5.9-)
By: Boissal When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: Best bolting of any slabs at the City? The mini dihedral to the left provides a perfect foot to avoid full smears. Calling this a 9 is a stretch compared to other slabs at the grade though... Super fun regardless, and the setting is pretty spectacular when the water is running.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Drilling Fields : The Drilling Fields : Hired Gun (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: The grade varies from 10a to impossible depending on height and sun. If you're 5'5" and do it in the sun, well, you probably won't do it. The only hard move is easily aided if you want to enjoy the awesome face above.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Drilling Fields : The Drilling Fields : Garden Gnome (5.8)
By: Boissal When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: Fun route with a very high grit factor and, as mentioned by the OP, quite full value for 5.8. I'd recommend embracing the lichen (which came back with a vengeance after the 2012 scrubbing) and taping (or paying a blood tribute to the crack). Getting into the first hand crack is quite committing with small gear at your feet and some exposed stemming before getting a good piece in. I thought it was supper heady on the OS. The next 2 cracks gobble good gear but things get thinne... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : The Kind (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: You could probably get by with a 40m rope, barely passed the middle mark of a 70m when starting from the platform.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : Hook, Line and Sinker (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: You two punters need to stop getting fat and get back to climbing choss.
James, what you can possibly have against the raps? The old bolts are fine and the new anchor (which is protected, easy to spot and convenient to pull from) eliminates the semi-sketchy downclimb. Getting off with a 70m is a breeze... As the Lord Of Rappelling I thought you'd be pleased :)
The route isn't the Fin Arete or the Dorsal but it's long, sustained, super f... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : Hook, Line and Sinker (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: . P1 is more on the 10a side of things, the first few moves are insecure and STOUT! The water trough above the steep start is a very unique feature.
. P2 is excellent slabbing with sporty moves to reach the chickenheads. The anchor is right of a wide crack and left of a much wider cleft. Almost 3 stars.
. The top of P3 is marked by a large boulder precariously perched on a ledge. The downward shuffle starts behind the boulder.
. Of note for P4, the anchor is directly left of the last bolt (as in... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Red Rock Wall : Burnt Cheese (5.10c)
By: Boissal When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Easy to link with the 1st pitch for another "super-route". The anchors and the bolt under the roof need extension, the whole thing takes about 20ish draws.
Quite a bit of looseness at the top and the last clip made me laugh.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Lonely Challenge Area : Watermelon Tetris (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Sep 1, 2016

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Comments: Great route with fun tricky moves on rock that keeps improving the higher you get. Lots of low juggy feet to offset some pretty thin hand holds. A much needed warm-up for the area and it felt very well protected.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Lonely Challenge Area : Eternal Flow (5.10c)
By: Boissal When: Sep 1, 2016

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Comments: An excellent addition to the crag, very much in line with the style of climbing up there, one of my favorite new routes to go up in BCC in some time!
P1 is thin and tricky with a lot of small edges, there's still a bit of dirt and moss around but the amount of cleaning that went into the route is obvious on that pitch (and the ledge). Nice work keeping the bolts spaced out, appropriately old school!
P2 has immaculate rock and awesome movement, solid edges keep appearing whene... more >>


Location: Utah : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Warrior Wall : Warrior Without a Cause (5.12b) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 29, 2016

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Comments: Yeah WTF is going on with the 5' chain?


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