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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Boissal

Point Rank: # 601
Total Points: 1,190

157 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Boissal been climbing?










Contributions


All 3052 | Routes 61 | Areas 3 | Photos 126 | Page Improvements | Comments 614 | Posts 589 | Stars 870 | Ratings 789
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Jam Crack Route (5.6) : Photo
By: Boissal When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Preposterous. How could you possibly build a gear anchor with so few cracks?


Location: Utah : Uinta Mountains : Bald Mountain : Cobrazone : Caging the Cobra (5.8)
By: Boissal When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Don't lower straight down on this one or you'll find yourself dangling off the mondo roof with your rope happily running over the super sharp lip. Walk right across the slab and drape your rope around the head of the cobra, lowering over the arete route.


Location: Utah : Uinta Mountains : Bald Mountain : Cobrazone
By: Boissal When: 6 days ago

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Comments: If you don't feel like climbing 5.7 with your pack on there's a reasonably clean staircase feature about 100' up and left from the bolted approach pitch. It's 4th class well sprinkled with choss so make sure what you pull on is attached to the wall.


Location: Utah : Uinta Mountains : Bald Mountain : Cobrazone : Charming the Choss (5.8 PG13)
By: Boissal When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Anyone care to clarify where the 2nd pitch is exactly?


Location: Utah : Uinta Mountains : Bald Mountain : Cobrazone : Blake Effect (5.10b/c)
By: Boissal When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Excellent crack, somewhat of a rarity in the Uintas. Most people will definitely want to double up on hand-size pieces (2 & 3). The start is still pretty crunchy with a bunch of key holds feeling a bit hollow.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 13, 2017

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Comments: Zing!!! Let me edit my other spelling mistake before you catch it!!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 13, 2017

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Comments: Anyway... My apologies for assuming you'd go up there to fix this broken pin (and replace it with more rappel hardware), I didn't realize there was a separate set of anchors for rappelling and thought it resulted in a sketchy 1 bolt rap anchor (which I'm sure you'd deal with). I guess the fact that the other half of the anchor is a bolt + chain threw me off. Why would you chain a bolt if not for rappelling/lowering?

I may email you the rest of my thoughts on this, however, havin... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: Wait now I'm confused, between James calling me a young asshole and you calling me an old fart I'm not sure what to do...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: Great bit of history about the Ti piton. You used emergent wrong.


Location: Utah : Uinta Mountains : Moosehorn : The Moore Wall : Tequila (5.12b)
By: Boissal When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: Looks like the direct start mentioned in the book has been bolted, unless a new separate line was added.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : The Steiger Sanction (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: Best and most appropriate BCC route name to date!!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Hidden Heavenly Slab : North of Heaven (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: I can confirm that there are only 4 bolts on P2. While the climbing is pretty moderate the section above the last bolt is a bit runout, I fiddled in a micro nut on the way to the ledge for piece of mind.
There has been some carnage around the top of P2 / start of P3 and several large blocks went down (along with the pin I imagine). I traversed left and down on the ledge to the bolted anchor as the gear to the right of the black streak was uninspiring at best. Getting to the 1st bolt of P3 sports... more >>


Location: Utah : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Flying Raptor's Area : The Pink Flamingo (5.10+) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 7, 2017

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Comments: How's the rock in the inverted staircase?? Death-choss or solid??
And how about a direct start? To much looseness?


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle
By: Boissal When: Jul 6, 2017

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Comments: Grades are somewhere in between the spot on ratings of old Hellgate (Towers area) & the soft grades of new Hellgate (Melting Mud).
Seems like most of the routes have gotten easier as they're cleaning up and everything is settling around 10+/10d with the exception of the first couple pitches of Gothic Pillar which may push into 11a terrain. The lower wall is steep and exposed though and makes for a rough warm-up.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Main Hellgate : ... : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jun 28, 2017

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Comments: How about not kicking anything around from any height?


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Main Hellgate : ... : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jun 28, 2017

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Comments: Unless Towers 2 & 3 pulled a switcheroo your caption may be off...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Unknown right (5.8)
By: Boissal When: Jun 20, 2017

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Comments: Contrived squeezed pile #1 and #2 seems appropriate.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: Those pesky Wasatch trees and their habit of growing at a 45 degree angle...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : A Cloud In The Sky (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: Jun 7, 2017

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Comments: LccMuncher, I'm impressed/honored you found time to go through 100s of my comments. I'll gladly accept the dick badge from you, you've obviously done your research. Maybe your time would be better spent training for sweet 10a projects at Helmetgate though, or trying to figure out how to be light on your feet so you only pull 4 holds on your noggin?
I think we're about 10:1 on this route not sucking. You're definitely entitled to being the 1 to dissent but if you bitch & moan ... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : A Cloud In The Sky (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: Jun 6, 2017

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Comments:
LCC Beater wrote:
Are you always such a dick Boissal or only when you're in your tighty whities behind a keyboard? STFU

That struck a nerve... Tell you what, if you ever want to go back up there I'll belay you. And come back the next day for your bail biner.

This line has been shedding holds since the day JG bolted it. Breaking 6 or 7 in one go seems pretty normal. Doesn't sound like you died or even got hurt on your attempt, you just got scared/schooled. Happens to me all t... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : A Cloud In The Sky (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: Jun 6, 2017

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Comments: I hear Momentum is air conditioned and provides complimentary tissues to wipe away tears during the summer. Maybe a better option?


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9+) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jun 1, 2017

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Comments: 5/10 is quite generous. This shot is poorly composed, poorly framed, not sharp, oversaturated, and heavily shifted to red.
I've taken and posted plenty of unremarkable shots on here but when I do I avoid making it look I'm a pro...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Main : Reach the Beach (5.11b PG13)
By: Boissal When: May 22, 2017

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Comments: Definitely John Doe 2 in the book, at least the old Ruckman's one, not sure about the granite guide. There is a John Doe 3 up canyon, can't remember if there is even a #1...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crescent Crack Direct Varia... (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: Base of the OW to base of the Final Link works fine with a 70. You'll be out of sight of the belay the whole time with lots of rope out in the crux traverse, make sure you're solid or you could log more air time than you care for.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Critic's Choice (5.12) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Mar 6, 2017

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Comments: Sweet shot! Mad slack...


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