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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact Boissal

Point Rank: # 614
Total Points: 1,300

161 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Boissal been climbing?










Contributions


All 3221 | Routes 62 | Areas 3 | Approach Trails | Photos 127 | Page Improvements | Comments 640 | Posts 616 | Stars 928 | Ratings 845
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Far Side : Seems Easy (V5)
By: Boissal When: Oct 2, 2017

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Comments: Probably the most frustrating, most impossible, easiest, trickiest, and greatest V4 in LCC. All at once. And it has the worst best looking foothold in the canyon.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: Boissal When: Sep 15, 2017

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Comments: Watch for a FOR sale post for a pulley next summer along with a comment here about proper runnering of wandering pitches and how rope drag almost killed me.
I now have draws in 4 different lengths to control my rope drag obsession. I bring them everywhere and catch endless shit for it.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: Boissal When: Sep 14, 2017

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Comments: Stunning rope drag potential! I like it!!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Poon Limp or Eat Crust (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: Sep 14, 2017

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Comments: How offensive Drew!!

Crag specific star-rating in full effect!! On the Castle, Shadow of the Blade = best route = 4 stars, classic for the Castle. Hellevator shaft = vilest man-eating choss-filled maw of doom = 1 star.

If you widen things to LCC the classic status may go away for the former and the latter may even get a bomb. But since you have to be in a certain mindset to climb the Castle you might as well shift the frame of reference a bit...

By that logic A Cloud In The Sky is 4 stars for the... more >>


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Hourglass Canyon : Hang 'em High (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: Sep 5, 2017

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Comments: HOLDING my comment about length until I confirm that my rope is indeed a 60m...
Probably the easiest route in the area, a better warm up than the 9 to the left.


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Hourglass Canyon : Fist Full of Cobbles (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Sep 5, 2017

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Comments: HOLDING my comment about length until I confirm that my rope is indeed a 60m...
The climbing felt more like 10a with a couple cruxes and a kick in the teeth finish.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Poon Limp or Eat Crust (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: OOOOOOOOHHH BOY!! A new four-star DC choss-munching adventure, can't wait to get after it.
Can't believe you two didn't take it to the top though. That lower-angle tree infested scree band looks so appealing... Is there any way to traverse to the upper pitches of Portable Darkness? I can't ever be caught rappelling off DC, the depth of the hypocrisy would make me spontaneously burst into flames (and if I didn't I suspect JimmyG would be close by with gasoline and a lighter).


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Serenity : Eavesdown Docks : Captain Tight Pants (5.11c)
By: Boissal When: Aug 14, 2017

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Comments: Tall beta skips the bad right hand sidepulls and goes straight for the jug. Big move but probably not 11c. The large pocket has pointy teeth, barely worth the lost skin...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Serenity
By: Boissal When: Aug 14, 2017

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Comments: This isn't the gym you knob, the developers aren't going to be trimming mature pine trees to ensure you don't rip your abercrombie garments. Bring a fucking rake and level the base of the climbs instead of whining that people didn't do enough to satisfy your plastic munching ass.


Location: Utah : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Upper Jungle : Gorillas in the Crack (5.11a) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: Mooooooostache Mike!!


Location: Utah : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Distant Drum : The Source of de Nile (5.11a) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Aug 9, 2017

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Comments: Holy jeebus my belayer is the Slender Man!


Location: Utah : Uinta Mountains : Bald Mountain : Cobrazone : Charming the Choss (5.8 PG13)
By: Boissal When: Aug 9, 2017

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Comments: Thanks for clarifying. Getting confused with all this naming of each pitch separately then giving the 2 pitcher its own name. Route counts ++


Location: Utah : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Distant Drum : The Source of de Nile (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Aug 8, 2017

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Comments: By everything you have up to a 5 Roy means a single set from .75 up and a whole family of 3s if you have them. Cruxy start to killer hands with face holds here and there. A bit grunty in spots.


Location: Utah : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Distant Drum : Me Tarzan (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Aug 8, 2017

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Comments: A stout little number. Load up on small gear, you could place a #3 in the pod but the majority of the crack is really thin. Grey/purple C3, red X4, grey mastercam are your friend. Doubling on .5 and .75 is nice when things open up a bit. Beware of the questionable gaston before getting to the crack.


Location: Utah : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Distant Drum : Monkey Shoulder (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Aug 8, 2017

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Comments: Jeebus choss munching christ!! This thing is the yin and the yang with some vile gravel pulling through the middle crack to access some of the sweetest edge pulling up high. I'd say 3.7 stars for the last 50' and 0.3 start for the first 70'.
I bypassed the lower wide section by climbing Scapular Arete, no rope drag to speak off. Don't miss the 2nd to last bolt which is way left of the relatively straight line. An inopportune prickly bush now guards the shuffle right to the ancho... more >>


Location: Utah : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Upper Jungle : Curious George (5.10c)
By: Boissal When: Aug 8, 2017

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Comments: Watch your runnering on this one, the rope drag could make your life miserable. The highest piece before the traverse tends to place an extended runner right under a small cutout in the roof. Too bad the upper laser-cut crack isn't longer.


Location: Utah : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Upper Canopy : Monkey On My Back (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Aug 8, 2017

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Comments: Stout crux on this one, caught me by surprise. Beware the block as you roll around the arete.


Location: Utah : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Upper Canopy : Chimp Off the Old Chiwiener (5.10d)
By: Boissal When: Aug 8, 2017

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Comments: The key left hand block at the start is loose. As in wiggling. Stick clipping the 2nd bolt is probably wise...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Photo
By: Boissal When: Aug 8, 2017

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Comments: +1 on wearing the helmet even while walking around the base. I'd rather be an alive dork than a stylish corpse with an empty melon...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Photo
By: Boissal When: Aug 3, 2017

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Comments: And yet your bro is standing there with his mouth agape and no helmet, no doubt waiting to gobble up the watermelon-sized piece of choss which will come down when you pull the rope.
Claiming his Darwin award?


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Sundial : Eleventh Hour (5.8) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Aug 1, 2017

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Comments: There's nothing quite like receiving criticism from the internet gear placement police, ruling from an office chair near you...
Personally I'd have picked a .75 because it compliments the color of the lichen and would look better on Instagram, #approvedbyjeffbotidongthecaminspector.
Or just trusted what looks like a bomber nut...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Rock Canyon Boulders : on crack (V7)
By: Boissal When: Aug 1, 2017

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Comments: Holy. Shit. That's terrifying...
Glad to hear it didn't smash your melon!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Yuengling (5.9+)
By: Boissal When: Aug 1, 2017

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Comments: Says the kid who's been legally allowed to swill for less than a year. Come on now. Tyler could send your projects while drunk on fermented hobo piss, without the rack of nuts and hexes.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Solitude : Top Summit : Chimera (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Jul 31, 2017

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Comments: We approached from Brighton, about 1200' of vert and 2 miles of hiking on dirt roads to the top of the summit chair (you save about 200' of vert if you approach via the Sunrise lift, not sure about the mileage). After that it's a few minutes of side-hilling to the base of the route, it took us about an hour at a casual pace.
The start is obvious, by the lowest point of the closest and tallest limestone buttress. The honeycombed rock is pretty distinctive.

P1: I counted 17 clippy t... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Dromedary Peak : The Central Spur (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 26, 2017

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Comments: Wrong drainage for Sundial, that's a no-name knoll in Broads Fork I think.


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