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Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Dec 15, 2017
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Point Rank: # 4,289
Total Points: 156

37 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Bob Rotert been climbing?


All 487 | Routes 7 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 16 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 124 | Posts 3 | Stars 184 | Ratings 151
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Contributed Comments


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Castle Valley > Parriot Mesa > Voodoo Child (5.11+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route! Lots of varied climbing from bottom to top. Kudos to Jay Smith's prolific efforts with his partners for adding another desert classic!! Was too worried to exit left at the last bolt on the coffin traverse at the top due to loose looking rock and danger to putting your belayer in a coffin... So after ecountering that, I moved down at the last bolt, and did a hand traverse right , then went to the top with no pro and flipped the rope over so second could come up via the c... more >>

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Castle Valley > The Nuns > Where have the Wild Things ... (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 12, 2016

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Comments: Walked by this route today and it brought back memories of doing the first ascent of the first pitch of this route in 1982, previous to the FA reported here, with my good friend Paul Scannel who is now deceased. He later died around 86 in a helicopter crash ski guiding in the Ruby Mtns Nevada. He was a great guy and great friend!! The rock looked kinda chossy above. I recall rapping off a nut or two, we did not place bolts for an anchor and never reported this ascent which was the MO for us ... more >>

Location: Alaska > Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... > Denali National Park > Ruth Gorge > Moose's Tooth > ... > Photo
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: Chris if I recall it was late April 2007.

Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Vail Ice > Rigid Designator Amphitheat... > The Fang (WI5-6) > Photo
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Photo I took with Charlies Camera. Probably Winter of '83/'84. But much to my chagrin, at the time, did not receive a cover photo credit for. Leonard Coyne was belaying him, and Alex and Jenny Lowe were in the picture at the start of the 7th Tentical but are cropped out of the picture. It fell down a few days after we climbed it.

Location: South Dakota > Spearfish Canyon > Blue Sky > Indecent Exposure > Indecent Exposure (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Probably the coolest climb I did on my first visit to Spearfish. This route ROCKS!! Amazing postion, movement, and Rock. Tricky to onsight due to the hidden nature of the holds.

Location: South Dakota > Spearfish Canyon > The Danks > The Blunt Arete (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: This is a great route. It has fun climbing up the arête . But at the top You have to do a scary move and risk falling over an overhang to clip a bolt where if it were 3-6 inches lower could be clipped from a stance. I don't get it. The hard climbing is over once you clip the hard to clip bolt so it is almost pointless to have were it is. Also, even more confusing there are 2 chopped bolts right below and were the current bolt should be located, in a spot where you can clip it. Doesn't make sen... more >>

Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Morning Glory Spire > Strategic Defense (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: This is an Awesome climb, but I second what Phil says. Shit can happen and I don't like having one bolt between me on the technical crux and a 25’ plus fall to the rocks below. It's possible that I just didn't look hard enough but I didn't find anything I would call adequate protection to put in leading up to the first bolt. By adequate I mean something I would be confident could hold the fall if that first bolt failed. Getting to the first bolt is a bit sketchy but my concern is more about ... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Coney Island > Joy Ride (5.12b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 9, 2015

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Comments: Sorry but I feel compelled to speak up on this subject. No disrespect to anyone is intended. In fact this comment is all about respect. Adding bolts to some elses's route to make it less scary or convenient without getting permission from the FA'ers is bad style and disrespectful. PERIOD....

With the advent of sport grid bolting in Boulder Canyon, I can understand how this ethic is being lost or not understood by newer generations of climbers. In fact, it might not be understood by some in the... more >>

Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Gate Buttress > Beckey's Wall Area > Split Fingers (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: This route is awesome and was feared by most back in the day. The knife blade that was originally their didn't offer much even in the form of psychological pro. Thought it was closer to 11+ back then but that was in EB's. Hell of a lead by Mr. Smoot! I did a continuation of this route with Mark Rolofson and Les Ellison. @ 1983 It adds some more run out 5.10 climbing up and left from the end of the roof and was some pretty good climbing as I recall.
We called it the Lunch Bucket variation.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - N Face > Northwest Corner (5.11-)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: Did this today and found the top pin that protected the straight up thin crack version and has been there for 15 plus years is missing. I always thought it looked pretty solid, but I see in a post above that it came out when someone was cleaning the pitch. I don't doubt that it has been fallen upon many times in the past, but over the years with freeze thaw, these things can loosen.

This seemed to me, at the time, that it changes the route quite a bit from when the pin was there. I am in a ... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Fern Canyon > ... > Fluorescent Gray (5.11c PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: This is such an awesome route! The bottom crack is burly, and the upper slab climbing is continuous thought provoking and exciting. One of the best in the Flatirons and not to missed if you're up for it. Kudos to Brett and Tim for putting up this masterpiece.

For gear: blue 3, red 1, and purple Camalots; green Alien; blue, yellow Metolius TCU and 1 red C3.

Great write up by Steve.

Location: Colorado > Lyons > St. Vrain Canyons > South Fork of St. Vrain Can... > Trojan Bunny Buttress > The Bucket List (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Revisited and led this today. Maybe some thing has changed since the FA put an 11a rating on it? Really cool climbing! Seemed definitely harder than 11a. Also, you have to do a solid 11 pitch to get to it so don't know how it comes in at 11- to begin with. Amazing climbing up through the stepped roofs.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Across from The Bihedral ak... > Lightning Strike (5.11a/b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Seem like pretty solid 5.11 not using the undercling or the arête .

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Devil's Head > Radio Head > Lady Fingers (5.10c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Thought this was very good. Slabbing to a neat finger tip lieback corner. Third or fourth bolt?, I think, was placed a little higher than would have been optimal. The Corner felt harder than 5.10 to us. We did The Bends afterwards and thought this route was harder.

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Devil's Head > Radio Head > The Bends (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Great route, but we didn't feel it was any where close to 11c. Might be 11-. We did Lady Fingers prior to doing this route, and it felt harder. Would say that route is underrated, and this one over. Bolts are a little awkward to clip in the groove. Nicely featured rock makes for good face climbing after the groove. Don't let the 5.11 grade keep you from getting on this one.

Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Nautilus > The Central Scrutinizer (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: Very cool route, Sam. What a contrast of crack climbing to hard face climbing.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > The Spider's Den > Spiders and Snakes (5.11c/d)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: Love the pump this route gives. Probably several ways to climb this. You can get a bit of a rest in the groove off left at the second bolt. It may be easier and tempting to sneak off right for a rest higher on a ledge that comes in from the right 2/3rds of the way up. Stay on track for the full value. Pumpy and fun! Seemed like solid to upper 11 range was about right for the way we did it. Could be harder if you stay right of the first few bolts and don't move left and up the groove.

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > Black Velvet Wall > ... > Photo
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: DEE da MAN!!! Love it, great shot !!

Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Rifle Mountain State Park > West Side of the Canyon > Stone Free (WI5+) > Photo
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for your kind words, Dan. Much appreciated!
Something is still getting hit hard, and I think it's me!!

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Potash Road > Wall Street South > Skinwalker (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Like most all #2 friend, #1 Camalot size desert cracks. Personal hand size is really going to influence difficulty one direction or another. Just sayin .. Realize, most folks can be awesome at #2 friend size cracks if their hands fit in them. \;o)

Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Wheeler-Newsome Wall > Wing Nut (5.11c) > Photo
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Brian, Love the photo !! Brings back memories from another life time. Sure miss Carruthers !!

Location: North Carolina > Stone Mountain > Stone Mountain South Face > Rice Krispies (5.10c R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Kenny, was such a great personality and force on the climbing scene back then. He was a Stone mtn master.

Location: North Carolina > Stone Mountain > Stone Mountain South Face > Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crac... (5.9)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: I believe Jim McEver and I did the FA of this one. It was after a rainy day and Jim suggested it as a challenge. Thinking there was no way I was gonna make it up the thing in soaking wet conditions. Since I was young and wanted to make an impression I took the bait. It was soaking wet, Muddy , and Hairball when we did it I think @ 72. This was before I had EB's, if anyone knows what those are, and I was wearing PA's. I still remember the day and climb over 40 years ago now. Totally CLASSIC F... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > After The Gold Rush (5.12a PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Just saw this surfing MP from the couch. Starting to get back to climbing again after shoulder surgery this year. Hope I can get back to where I can get on this. Looks awesome! Nice job, guys!

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Castle Rock > Never a Dull Moment (5.12b PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Just ran across the comments on this one and had to pipe in as it brought back memories. The slab pitch is some tedious footwork and balance, helped by fingernails on micro-edges to just stay in balance. However,I always thought the crack was harder than the slab. Although the slab could be harder now due to degradation of the micro fingernail holds. It took me multiple attempts, with Maurice Reed, Jeff Achey, and others over several different days to finally get the crack on this clean in the... more >>

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