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Member Since: Jan 5, 2012
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,979
Total Points: 403

4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 311 | Routes 20 | Areas 4 | Approach Trails | Photos 28 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 44 | Posts 64 | Stars 114 | Ratings 36
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Salt Point State Park : Shipwreck Wall
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 6, 2017

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Comments: Climbed there last week and did not spot any nesting cormorants, but HOLY COW was there a lot of shit on the wall. My shoes and hands were white from bird shit after climbing skaliwag and I repeatedly grabbed and knocked down barfed-up bone pellets on the ledges. Stuff on the left side was better but I did spot a Peregrine land on the wall to the left.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Brownoser (5.8)
By: bmdhacks When: Jun 26, 2017

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Comments: Enjoyable hands and fists crack, with interesting variation. I'd bring a #4 if you have it.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Misunderstanding (5.9)
By: bmdhacks When: Mar 22, 2017

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Comments: As a budding 5.10 leader, I found the first pitch protected fine with doubles of C4s. I'd climb it with a single rack if I had to. Very thoughtful interesting climbing.

I easily could have placed three #4's and four #3's on the second pitch, and my double set felt really inadequate. Pretty much walked my pieces the entire climb, which was a bit of a hassle.

Rapping on a single 70 brings you below your first placement on... more >>


Location: California : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : Chilkoot Lake : Hidden Eagle : Aqua Groovy (5.10a/b)
By: bmdhacks When: Mar 16, 2017

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Comments: I found the last pitch quite runout and very different character from the first two pitches. You go from sporty bolt clipping on an obvious feature to blank slab with 1 bolt on the whole pitch. I'd say the first 40 feet are about 5.8 slab too before it eases up. Another option is to wander left and finagle some pro in the choss.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Flare (5.10-)
By: bmdhacks When: Mar 10, 2017

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Comments: There's a rogue mixed line to the left of Solar Flare now that helps with the rappel. Also, I climbed the first pitch and it was awesome, around 10b/c super burly. I'm excited to get back and try the whole line.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Moby Dick (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: BTW, I was unable to find a place for a #5 on this route. Maybe you could sneak it in somewhere but really just bring another #4 instead. I placed two #4's on the lower fists section after a bit of walking the first and didn't have any to spare on the upper wide bit.

Note that this climb was at my limit so my gear was on the safe side.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Monument Slot (aka Gunga Di... : ... : Chocolate Pocket (5.9+)
By: bmdhacks When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: Hate to be that-guy but I found this route a bit on the dangerous side. The third bolt requires a gymnastic move with nasty fall potential in the chimney, and the gap between the fourth and fifth bolt is extremely chossy and has strong injury potential as a fall would impact the triangular squeeze. I pulled off a hand-size piece pulling the bulge and my petite partner blew two footholds on the face below. I would be surprised if nobody is injured before this cleans up.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Monument Slot (aka Gunga Di... : ... : Drop Out (5.8)
By: bmdhacks When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: Link with After Eight gets my 4 star rating. Really really good. The linkup top-ropes with a 70m.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10+)
By: bmdhacks When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: We took the above posters advice and topped out on a sandy P6 that climbed around 5.6 and protected mostly with nuts in patina seams. Belayed off a slung boulder and a short scramble to the summit. If I did it again I'd link p5 and P6. The summit rap station was as described, skiers right off the top out, almost directly above the p4 ledge, dual 60s barely (but safely) make it to the p4 ledge.


Location: California : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : Ort Wall : Ort Man Complex (5.10c) : Photo
By: bmdhacks When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: I believe Geronimo has it's own anchor


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: bmdhacks When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Great climb, if not a bit scary!

I'm a Medium-level 5.7 leader. I had no trouble leading Birdland or Big Bad Wolf, but this route terrified me. I could handle most of the runout (only placed 2 pieces on p1), but there's just so much of it. The harder parts were P2 and the final dihedral. I overprotected on both of those and had to pitch-out midway in a hanging belay. We totaled 7 pitches, but I could have done it in 5 or 6. Really glad I brought a C4 #4 for the last pitch, didn't ne... more >>


Location: California : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Park : East Side : Monolith : Regular Route (5.8 PG13)
By: bmdhacks When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: This is the safest way to ascend the top, and provides access to toprope all the anchors to the left of this climb. I felt the most danger was before the first bolt on the first pitch, and the remaining runouts were super easy climbing / ledge traverses.

I brought gear but found no placements.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Church Bowl Lieback (5.8)
By: bmdhacks When: Jun 10, 2014

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Comments: Be sure to inspect the tat at the top. At the time of this writing, the upper tree cluster had a hollow rap ring that was worn through and sharp as a blade. The lower-left tree had good tat but one of the rap rings was 3/4 worn through. A 70m rope gets you down from the bottom station, but might not get you there from the top.


Location: California : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Park : East Side : The Hand : Love Line (5.10b/c)
By: bmdhacks When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: I wouldn't call the first pitch runout. The bolt spacing increases after the 4th bolt, but it's a fairly safe vertical fall. The bolts do seem to be just after all of the cruxy moves, and my partner and I took a few whippers trying to project the first pitch. We started up the second pitch but I downclimbed after pulling off a sizable jug just beyond the second bolt. Ah Pinnacles.


Location: California : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : Senior Wall : Senior Citizen (5.9)
By: bmdhacks When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Great climb, but there's a pretty sizable column of rock that doesn't have much attaching it to the wall. I pulled and stepped on it pretty hard and it flexed and held, but just be careful up there. You'll know you're at it when you can reach around behind it from both sides.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Glacier Point Apron - Cente... : Monday Morning Slab, Harry ... (5.8)
By: bmdhacks When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: We approached from the right into the rotten corner up to the bush/tree with tat. I do not recommend this, despite what supertopo shows. Here's a better route: scramble up to the first ledge by the dead tree. Next, move left along the ledge until you see some nice slab/scramble moves on better rock closer to the base of the climb.

Also, for descent, you can rappel on two 60 meter ropes from the first anchors down to that first ledge. Traverse west to the dead tree and scramble down.


Location: California : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Park : East Side : Discovery Wall : The Big Pucker (5.10d R)
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 24, 2013

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Comments: This shares an anchor with, and is a nice toprope after leading the easier 5.9 The Wet Kiss.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar (5.7)
By: bmdhacks When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: I went too far on the first pitch and belayed in the top of the right gulley at the top of the wide crack, and then only had a short run for the second pitch. Basically ran my 60m rope to it's end. Next time I'd belay 15ft lower down and move left onto the face earlier.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Area 13 : ... : More Trad Than Rad (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: The anchor for this is easily accessed by climbing up from Chupacabras. We found this climb to be an excellent toprope, a brilliant combination of crack and face moves.


Location: California : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Chicken Ranch Bingo (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: such a fun climb to be kinda ruined by the disgusting magnitude of shit smeared all over it


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : The Flake (5.8)
By: bmdhacks When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: The start can be protected ok with just a .5 and a #3. I threw in a #4 as well but it was a bit tipped out.

Watch your rope drag if doing it in one pitch, the top slab got... interesting.


Location: Utah : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Prescience (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: Got on this route while trying to climb Visionaries and loved it. Rapped the route with one 60m. If you want, you could traverse on the ledge at the end of P2 and climb the last pitch of Visionaries.


Location: Utah : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Sticky Revelations (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: The first pitch has a fork after the first two bolts. Going right will get you to the base of P2. Going left is equally fun but you'll end up at the base of the trad dihedral route, or you'll have to traverse 10 feet on a small ledge to the start of pitch 2.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Winds of Fire (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Oct 4, 2012

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Comments: If you extend your anchor to hang down below the prow, you'll get zero rope drag on toprope and lowering. It's only a foot or two below the chains and has line-of-sight to the belayer. Bring a bit of cordelette and you'll be fine.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Late for Dinner (5.6)
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: It's just new. Don't worry, before long it will be polished all to hell like Rockapella. For now, it's an interesting contrast between the two to see how the rock changes from overuse.


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