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Member Since: Dec 12, 2006
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 599 | Routes 46 | Areas 9 | Approach Trails | Photos 85 | Page Improvements | Comments 130 | Posts 128 | Stars 136 | Ratings 65
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : MF Direct (5.11a/b)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 13, 2017

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Comments: There's an obvious flake/block just under the final roof on this pitch which has grown increasingly loose and hollow sounding in the past few years. It might ruin someone's day (or belayer!) if it was pulled too hard on, or if a cam were placed behind it and fallen on.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Crying Dragon (5.11d)
By: blakeherrington When: Aug 21, 2017

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Comments: Thanks for creating this cool route, Luke!

Since much of the route is in right-facing corners, it gets shade earlier than other routes on the UTW, and you can basically be sure nobody else will be on it.


Here's an alternate pitch breakdown:

P1: DHLA P1 into DHLA P2, but veer up and right at the end of the pitch, and belay around the corner on the ledge per Rise and Fall. ~58m 5.10

P2: Rise and Fall P2 + start up Rise and Fall P3, then veer right onto G. Dragon, skip the hanging belay, a... more >>


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : A Slave To Liberty (5.13-)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 20, 2017

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Comments: Thanks for all the work and good hardware Mikey! Great climb! The hardest and most cryptic toe-killer climbing is concentrated high on P7 and low on P8. I think this one is destined for obscurity, but the middle section make a great mid-5.12 multipitch route which wouldn't take a very heavy rack if you climbed:

Freedom or Death 1, 2, 3, then step right to belay, climb the first three independent pitches of this route (listed as 4, 5, 6) and then climb the short .11d and long 5.10 on Thin R... more >>


Location: Washington : Okanogan : Mazama : Fire Wall : Restless in Paradise (5.13c/d)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 20, 2017

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Comments: The huge right hand pocket near the top is one of the coolest features on a sport route in the area. It's almost too bad that there are semi-decent edges to the side of the blue streak. Doing it OG (AKA Ben G) style via just those pockets would be fierce!


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Clay (5.11+)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: It's pretty inspiring to have FAist Terry Lien chime in with his views about the pitch, the added difficulty of placing protection yourself, and the route history. Thanks Terry!

I finally did the pitch after 10 years of climbing at Index, and it is truly amazing. Thanks Thomas for removing the fixed wires - there's bomber gear up high for sure. The smashed up bolt and bent hanger are still in place on the wall just left of the corner - an angle grinder (or just a wrench? or crowbar?) wo... more >>


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Normandy (5.12+)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: The position is really rad, but the rock quality is crystalline/grainy and below average for Index, and it gets seasonally dirty from following a broad water streak. It needs tons more traffic and brushing to become better.

There is also a pretty manky fixed rope (clipped through draws, and clove hitched) which had been running down this pitch for quite a while, and which certainly doesn't help make it more popular.


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Liberty and Injustice for A... (5.12- PG13)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 6, 2017

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Comments: June '17 I intentionally left a burly black nylon QD on the 2nd bolt of pitch 5.

That draw was always cruxy to place, especially for shorter climbers, and my partner broke another foothold while trying to reach it yesterday, sending him on his only fall of the day as he nearly landed in my lap. As the footholds through there continue to erode, I think having a draw on the bolt will make the pitch better, especially for shorter climbers.


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : Upper Skagit Valley : Ryan's Wall : Callisto (5.13a)
By: blakeherrington When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: The climbing is excellent, though dirty, until the final couple meters when it gets REALLY dirty, and vastly more difficult. After some chalking and brushing, I still couldn't really conceive of the final few moves on the arete finish, and I never though to climb out left.

I tried to link Cinnamon Groove into this finish, and despite lots of bolt skipping and long sling usage, I still felt like I was losing a game of tug-of-war with my belayer.

If you wanted to send this thing, it would p... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Just Say Yes (5.12a)
By: blakeherrington When: May 22, 2017

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Comments: Great climb. Technical and brilliant boulder moves separated by stances.

The only blemish on the pitch is that the top section is climbed to the left of the bolts, using a few holds shared with the 5.11 on the left. It would be possible to just complete the pitch via the left line, which would be easier (and would require some gear).


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Das Musak (5.11d)
By: blakeherrington When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: This is a fun climb on a wall that stays shaded until very late in the day. It has some long reaches, but if you're over 5'7" or so, there's nothing harder than V2/V3. Probably one of the easier local routes at the grade. If only this panel of nice stone was taller!


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Liberty Crack (5.11- C2)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 27, 2016

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Comments: Free Climbing Beta

  • P1 is .10+ or .11a with a short crux. Length varies due to snow levels at the base.

  • P2 - is in the .13a/b range (V7ish) - you just need a few small cams or small stoppers. Belay on small ledge under bolt ladder. It's a short pitch and easy to lower down a loop to the belay for hauling up anything.

  • P3 - (~.12b) Moves out right via some .10+ mantels, using the high belay bolt to protect from a factor 2 fall. Finesse some 5.12 slab/face moves, the...
 more >>


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Le Grande Bleu (5.11c)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: This is a fun boulder problem on good holds! It adds a neat alternate option for Princely or Model Worker.

Stamati - another easy and reasonable way to access Tadpole is to climb Princely Ambitions and then belay a 10m 5.7 traverse to the right. With enough long slings on princely, you can do that as one pitch.


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Vesper Peak : Ragged Edge (5.7)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Ragged Edge and True Grit (along with several other new moderate routes) are featured in a new full color PNW guidebook called Cascades Rock . The guidebook has route descriptions and topos, as well as driving, approach, and descent info. Available Here


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Outer Space (along with the nearby 5.8 Orbit) are featured in a new full color PNW guidebook called Cascades Rock . The guidebook has route descriptions and topos, and also describes the non-technical backside descent off Snow Creek Wall, and the option to rappel back to the base. Available Here


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Rise and Fall (5.12a/b)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: Bolts replaced in spring '16.
Most were original plated steel from '90 or '91, though the crux bolt of the crux pitch (first independent pitch) was a newer stainless.


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Rattlesnake Rock : Zweibles (5.12b)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: This is a fun pitch with a little V4 crimp crux getting going, then some redpoint cruxes passing the roof.
It's nice to have long draws hanging on the last 2 bolts. It's a fully bolted sport climb.


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire : The Hitchhiker (5.11-)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: In reference to the topos and description in Cascades Rock (which I wrote):

  • James Ellis is correct and Cascades Rock has a typo - P8 as described on Page 172 should say .10b not .11b - the topo on Page 173 has it correct where it says ".10 steep hands".

  • The mystery bolts and anchors on the face to the left of The Passenger and Hitchhiker are in the vicinity of (or on the lower part of) a likely unrepeated aid route called "The Midnight Ride"@...
 more >>


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka ... (5.11b/c R)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: In 1963 I think basically the entire pitch was the "direct aid" portion of the pitch. Graded 5.7 A3, I'd guess that only the top few meters were free climbed.

I think the specific mention of placing and aiding from bolts, a RURP and a KB isn't meant to imply that the remaining +/- 20 pitons were used as freeclimbing pro in a modern sense, but rather that the pitch required some atypical or specialized aid gear in addition to the normal rack of arrows, angles, etc.


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Hangdog (5.11b/c)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: It's been onsighted.

On the Castle continuum, this one feels somewhere around the MF overhang in terms of difficulty. Easier than Das, Rainshadow, or No Such Thing. Pretty hard for .11a though! Nice work John & Tom.


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : ** Bouldering in Tumwater C... : Pitless Avocado : ... : Joe's Crimper (V7)
By: blakeherrington When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: The sharp "ear" below the top broke off at some point just after the updated guidebook was written. It's still possible to do this problem at original ~V7 grade via a couple opposing sidepulls.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: blakeherrington When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: You don't need much gear at all for this route, even if linking pitches. For an onsight rack, placing everythign worthwhile, it's just a few pieces (total) across all 4 leads.

P1 - the crux piton is hard to see and hard to clip if you're short. Locate it from the base. Any other possible gear looks worthless. Higher up past the choss and piton #2 there's a good finger-sized crack. 1 draw, 1 sling, 1 small cam. Don't slip!

P2 - 2 draws. Nowhere for anything else on this tiny pitch.

P3 - ... more >>


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Good Girls Like Bad Boys (5.12a)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments:


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Midnight Rock : Dagoba System (5.12b PG13)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: All hardware replaced fall '14.

Best pitch in Leavenworth?


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : M&M wall (AKA "Supercave Wa... : The L & H Route (Free Varia... (5.12)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: Big ups to Langdon and Hargis on putting up this route in 1969. Their "5.6 friction" on p3 would have been gripping in mountain boots carrying a rack of iron up the wall.

There's an alternate last pitch that we tried and I bailed from which would be a fun independent topout. After P6 step right and climb the steep slanting crack up and left, then zig back hard right on face and slab climbing to the summit. This would likely require a few bolts or else a lot of boldness. I believe that the right... more >>


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : White Wall : Thunderstruck (5.12b)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: Amazing sculpted holds with the classic redpoint crux going to the anchors...


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