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Member Since: Aug 3, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,208
Total Points: 708

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has BJ Sbarra been climbing?










Contributions


All 1734 | Routes 51 | Areas 5 | Approach Trails | Photos 21 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 186 | Posts 66 | Stars 1088 | Ratings 311
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress > Legend of Creepy Hollow (5.10)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 27, 2017

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Comments: It's a shame there's so much hollow/loose rock on this, as the movement is quite fun and varied but there are many places I wouldn't want to test the gear.


Location: Colorado > Glenwood Springs > Main Elk Creek > Main Elk Crag > Mint Jelly (5.8+)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 24, 2017

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Comments: This is now fully bolted for your sport-wanking pleasure.


Location: Colorado > Glenwood Springs > Main Elk Creek > Pup Tent of Solitude > Subprime (5.11a)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 24, 2017

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Comments: Lowering 'biners are getting pretty worn, they are aluminum.


Location: Colorado > Glenwood Springs > Main Elk Creek > Pup Tent of Solitude > Subpar (5.10a)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 24, 2017

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Comments: Someone apparently needed the lowering 'biners more than this climb did. Also the nut on the left bolt was pretty loose, probably because the 'biners are gone and the bolts are being torqued inwardly. Harder now.


Location: Colorado > Carbondale Area > Redstone Area > The Elemental Wall
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 12, 2017

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Comments: Bam! This is the latest I had from Jeff Jackson before he left town. Some of the problems are quite tall.

1) V0 - far left. Several slab problems. TR off a bolt with a tree backup. Great for kids.
2) Angleheimer, V2 - start on two protruding cobbles and and move left. Match sloper, and head up.
3) Blochstein, V4 - start matched on obvious chest-level block. Move straight up.
4) Variation, V5 - start matched on block, and exit Angleheimer.
5) Winestein, V8 - stand up start to the obvious arete. ... more >>


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > 4X4 > Hookers 'n Blow (5.10+)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Sep 29, 2017

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Comments: Anchor is in bad shape and needs to be upgraded ASAP. Two 3/8" bolts, right one moves a lot and is very loose. Left one also moves some. Didn't want to trust my life to one sort of good 3/8" bolt, so left a #2 camalot as back up, equalized with the better bolt. Hopefully the new anchor fairies can get this one fixed soon.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... > Finer Niner (5.9)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 13, 2017

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Comments: Looks like the first ascentionist was trying to force a line, bolts should get moved left, no one is going to stay away from sweet patina jugs. And you still get a funky crux at the top.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Bumblie Rock > Return of the Bumblie (5.10a/b)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 13, 2017

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Comments: Fun pitch, start is height dependent. Shorter folks might not even be able to reach the holds, but you can always do the Bumblie start out left and then scramble back over to the bolt line. Not too crusty, and way steep at the crux. Seems like there is room for plenty more routes on this wall.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > River Road > Take-Out Beach > The Cinema > True Grit (5.9)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Apr 2, 2017

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Comments: Mostly easier climbing with a short, steep crux.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > 2nd Meat Wall > Gouge On It (5.10+)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 27, 2016

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Comments: Unique crux moves followed by a long hand crack that is mostly wider, bring 3 Friends and/or 3 Camalots.

Anchor is a Bandito bolt and drilled pin, we replaced the tat with new webbing, certainly a good candidate for some new hardware.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Public Service Wall
By: BJ Sbarra When: Sep 21, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the info you guys!


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Public Service Wall
By: BJ Sbarra When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Anybody have better beta on where the trail starts?


Location: Colorado > Glenwood Springs > Glenwood Canyon > Shoshone Power Plant Area > The Shoshone Stones > ... > The Pulaski (V3)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: This problem is called The Pulaski.


Location: Colorado > Glenwood Springs > Glenwood Canyon > Shoshone Power Plant Area > The Shoshone Stones > Photo
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: The two boulders on the right are the Shovel and Duck Boulders.


Location: Colorado > Glenwood Springs > Glenwood Canyon > Shoshone Power Plant Area > The Shoshone Stones
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: FYI, this area is known as the Shoshone Stones. It was detailed in the old Rifle Mountain Park and Western Colorado Rock Climbs guidebook with about 11 named problems listed. That info is out of print, but I just wanted to put it out there.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Sparks Wall > Unknown (5.11-)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Very fun climb. As noted above, anchors are in a weird place and a pain to clip, I probably would have put them at the good stance two feet lower. Still very worth doing though. Also bring more hand-sized gear, the whole middle is mostly #2 and #1 Camalots.


Location: Colorado > Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... > Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... > The Prow > Daddy Didn't Need No Magnum (5.9+)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Still a bit crusty but fun.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Dove Creek Wall
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Right on Luke! I walked this wall awhile back and remember a few lines sticking out, thanks for getting them done!


Location: Colorado > Carbondale Area > The Narrows
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: Left of the Watchtower, you mean the Industrial Wall? How far left are we talking?


Location: Colorado > Carbondale Area > Redstone Area > Redstein > 1st Band
By: BJ Sbarra When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: Not sure what the description above is referring to with rotten rock. The rock at this crag is generally quite good, with the occasional brief choss band at the start.

Also, for a less adventurous approach, park in the first pullout on your left after you pass the north entrance to Redstone. This is the same parking for the River Boulders. Cross the highway, and pick up a trail. Follow this up the hill, and when it splits just before the cliff, stay left (right is the Friends and Family slab), ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Carbondale Area > The Narrows > Narrows Proper
By: BJ Sbarra When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Fall might be ambitious, but we'll see! Also, Dana, there are around 120 routes at the Narrows with not even 50 listed here. Happy exploring!


Location: Colorado > Carbondale Area > The Narrows > Narrows Proper > Other People's Crack (5.10+ R)
By: BJ Sbarra When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: Really fun moves on sometimes marginal gear, a serious lead for sure. Also when you top out, you'll see two bolts to your left. The anchor you want is actually up and right and has 3 bolts. You scramble up some choss to get to it. From the right anchor, you can easily rig a TR.


Location: Wyoming > Lander Area > Sinks Canyon > Scud Area > Bombs over Crag Bag (5.10b)
By: BJ Sbarra When: May 2, 2015

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Comments: Fun route, could use a little more cleaning in the section where you can climb out left on pockets or out right on the flake.


Location: Colorado > Carbondale Area > Coal Creek Boulders > The Wall aka Breakfast Nook > Blocky (5.8)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: 10a or so? Maybe 5.9, check it out!


Location: Colorado > Carbondale Area > The Frying Pan > The Skillet > Chubby Pickle Arete (5.11b)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 19, 2015

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Comments: Hmm, nothing has broken that I know of. The cam goes between the first two bolts, yellow or orange TCU, which is a 0.75" to 1" cam, not a 0.75 Camalot. If you are tall, it's also easier just to do a jump start to the good holds.


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