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Rock Climbing Photo: el guapo


Member Since: Aug 3, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact BJ Sbarra

Point Rank: # 936
Total Points: 868
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has BJ Sbarra been climbing?










Contributions


All 1680 | Routes 49 | Areas 5 | Photos 21 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 180 | Posts 64 | Stars 1049 | Ratings 306
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Gouge On It (5.10+)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 27, 2016

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Comments: Unique crux moves followed by a long hand crack that is mostly wider, bring 3 Friends and/or 3 Camalots.

Anchor is a Bandito bolt and drilled pin, we replaced the tat with new webbing, certainly a good candidate for some new hardware.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall
By: BJ Sbarra When: Sep 21, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the info you guys!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall
By: BJ Sbarra When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Anybody have better beta on where the trail starts?


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Shoshone Power Plant Area : The Shoshone Stones : ... : The Pulaski (V3)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: This problem is called The Pulaski.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Shoshone Power Plant Area : The Shoshone Stones : Photo
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: The two boulders on the right are the Shovel and Duck Boulders.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Shoshone Power Plant Area : The Shoshone Stones
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: FYI, this area is known as the Shoshone Stones. It was detailed in the old Rifle Mountain Park and Western Colorado Rock Climbs guidebook with about 11 named problems listed. That info is out of print, but I just wanted to put it out there.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Unknown (5.11-)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Very fun climb. As noted above, anchors are in a weird place and a pain to clip, I probably would have put them at the good stance two feet lower. Still very worth doing though. Also bring more hand-sized gear, the whole middle is mostly #2 and #1 Camalots.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Prow : Daddy Didn't Need No Magnum (5.9+)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Still a bit crusty but fun.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Dove Creek Wall
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Right on Luke! I walked this wall awhile back and remember a few lines sticking out, thanks for getting them done!


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: Left of the Watchtower, you mean the Industrial Wall? How far left are we talking?


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : Redstone Area : Redstein : 1st Band
By: BJ Sbarra When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: Not sure what the description above is referring to with rotten rock. The rock at this crag is generally quite good, with the occasional brief choss band at the start.

Also, for a less adventurous approach, park in the first pullout on your left after you pass the north entrance to Redstone. This is the same parking for the River Boulders. Cross the highway, and pick up a trail. Follow this up the hill, and when it splits just before the cliff, stay left (right is the Friends and Family slab), ... more >>


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : Narrows Proper
By: BJ Sbarra When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Fall might be ambitious, but we'll see! Also, Dana, there are around 120 routes at the Narrows with not even 50 listed here. Happy exploring!


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : Narrows Proper : Other People's Crack (5.10+ R)
By: BJ Sbarra When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: Really fun moves on sometimes marginal gear, a serious lead for sure. Also when you top out, you'll see two bolts to your left. The anchor you want is actually up and right and has 3 bolts. You scramble up some choss to get to it. From the right anchor, you can easily rig a TR.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Scud Area : Bombs over Crag Bag (5.10b)
By: BJ Sbarra When: May 2, 2015

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Comments: Fun route, could use a little more cleaning in the section where you can climb out left on pockets or out right on the flake.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : Coal Creek Boulders : The Wall aka Breakfast Nook : Blocky (5.8)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: 10a or so? Maybe 5.9, check it out!


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Frying Pan : The Skillet : Chubby Pickle Arete (5.11b)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 19, 2015

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Comments: Hmm, nothing has broken that I know of. The cam goes between the first two bolts, yellow or orange TCU, which is a 0.75" to 1" cam, not a 0.75 Camalot. If you are tall, it's also easier just to do a jump start to the good holds.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Sound of Power (5.12c)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: I'm thinking you guys should get some paintball guns. Keep climbers off wet rock, and fun for you too!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 E... (5.10)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: Plaque actually says "bad anchor." It's been awhile, but I remember it needing some love when I did it. Not sure how it is these days.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Unnamed 11+ (5.11+)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Fun route, I wouldn't want to fall on gear in that starting flake. Most of this climb is really enjoyable sizes of hands once you are past the start.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: Team Wall has about 11 routes from 5.5 to 11a. Many have name rocks at the base. This is a good sunny spot later in the year.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : Coal Creek Boulders : The Wall aka Breakfast Nook : Blocky (5.8)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: There are some big loose blocks in the crack, making this a bit sketchy right now. Check out the new sport pitch to the right instead.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Chasing Shadows (5.8+)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: Very fun. P2 had a good bit of hollow rock through the mid-section, solid pro wasn't super obvious at first. P3 is fantastic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Arch Enemy (5.9)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: Fun route, finger crack 3rd pitch lived up to the hype, so fun. Thought getting to the second bolt on p2 was a little exciting, moving up the sandy, hollow pillar thing, but reasonable. Chimney part was a hoot.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sweet Thin (5.9)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: Crazy how thin that flake is! Very fun route, while I do think Armatron takes a more aesthetic line up the buttress, I did like how the difficulty was more sustained on this one, and great variety too!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Four Blocks Crag
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: Fun crag, nice work!


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