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Member Since: Apr 16, 2006
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact Bill Lawry

Point Rank: # 422
Total Points: 1,718
Last Year: 98
Last 30 Days: 9
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bill Lawry been climbing?










Contributions


All 1482 | Routes 38 | Areas 16 | Photos 164 | Page Improvements 12 | Comments 242 | Posts 775 | Stars 145 | Ratings 90
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 3, 2016

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Comments: Chilling!

A friend once had a similar encounter while quietly belaying me from the base of Almost Overlooked. Nose to the ground, the bear came up to within 10 feet before they noticed each other. For a while, my friend was known by the moniker Bear Bait.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : C11H17NO3 (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 27, 2016

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Comments: For this, we stood in double-length slings as well as hung by belay loop from each piece for several pieces along the traverse not relying on the belayer for tension. An etrier or two would have been nice.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : C11H17NO3 (5.7 R)
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Have done this enjoyable route twice. It'd be nice if the below were in the description ...

Just above the initial flakes on P2, one can stay in the corner for some enjoyable and protectable climbing. It may even be 5.7 depending on ability.

Also, the described P2 is 160 feet - from just after the hand traverse to the belay cave after traversing up and right.

The described P3 ending does not match Handren's but we have done it as a fourth pitch (i.e.... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9)
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: P1: Do the squeeze chimney on the right side beneath the chock stone as follows (caution: I have not tried this - still, it is what I would try the next time) ...

1) On lead, take only a half dozen cams: 0.75" to 3". Save a couple 3" pieces for the belay just above the chockstone. Put ALL/ONLY that gear with slings on your left gear loop and leave EVERYTHING else behind including any helmet, wallet, etc.. Go left side in.

2) Once... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 25, 2016

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Comments: Towards assurances the rap rings do not disappear, replaced the biners with Petzl Go 7mm Steel Screw Link Maillons. Unfortunately, did not have chains with us.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Come back and climb the route when the temperatures are not so hot. :-)

... only reason I can think of why someone would give the route a bomb.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Estrellita : Dom's Day Out (5.10 R)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 14, 2016

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Comments: Nice - folks will know whether it goes and at what grade.

Only suggestion is to not add any bolts - I'm afraid it would change the character of Estrellita and/or Beat Around the Bush as they are so close.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Shadow Nose (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: A spicier way to finish this route is to follow the original Shadow Nose route as shown in Tuolumne Free Climbs, Second Edition, Aug 2009 ... although it appears someone has remove some of the spice by adding a bolt to P2.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : White Flake (5.7 R)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: As indicated, it can pay to set the belay for P1 right up at the base of the crack of P1. We did that. And with our 60m rope, the leader reached the anchor at the top of P1 with only 5 or 10 feet to spare.

Agreed - the second bolt that was reachable on P1 was a surprise as it is not in the guide Tuolumne Free Climbs, Second Edition, Aug 2009 ... neither shown for this route nor for the close-by 5.9R part of Shadow Nose.

There is also a new bolt after reaching the flake on P2.

FA&@P... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7) : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: I would have guessed invasive, but Mike got it right.

Cirsium scopulorum
a native to Colorado (and other states)
9,000 to 12,000 feet

Source: coopext.colostate.edu/jeffco/n... (slide 56)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7) : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: We took a look at the entry moves into the Option D dihedral: the terrain was full of lichen, the crack was dirty (unused?), and the climbing was harder than 5.7. We think it may have been a long time since that way was climbed, if ever.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: For those who have read this far :-), we found that the last technical pitch seems to have an old variation at its crux.

The crux is about 30 feet up. Rather than earning your way directly up through the cruxy bulge in the dihedral, find holds out on the left face of the dihedral. A few moves up and left lead out onto a minor arête where there are two pitons (July 2016). After a move or two more to the second piton, traverse back into the dihedral for easier climbing past a third piton.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 25, 2016

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Comments: Here is yet another option for returning to The Crest from the summit of Yataghan. In general terms based on what Tim Z and I found: Climb the broad 200+ foot tall cliff just northeast of the Yataghan's summit. After topping out, hike / scramble to The Sentinel and reverse its' approach back to The Crest. In more detail ...

Kinda think this should not be posted as a bonafide "route" ... unless some adventurous soul f... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Rio Arriba County (Brazos, ... : Brazos Cliffs
By: Bill Lawry When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Some history:

For many years the landowners' agents, Bob and Irene Hobson, asked all climbers to register in a logbook at their cabin before starting up the cliffs. This was a way of formally requesting permission to climb, which in some years was granted only to members of the Mountaineers. It also helped the Hobsons handle phone calls from anxious relatives if the climbers did not return by dark (which happened fairly often). This era has now come to an end: Bob Hobson passed away in 1988... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Rabbit Ears Slabs : Bucky Blue (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: Just a note that the huge and totally dead tree in this Photo is currently the intermediate rap station. We found a long blue sling tied around the large horizontal section of the trunk with one quick link.

I know there are already many old bolts in the Organ Mountains that need an upgrade. Even so, a pair of rap bolts here would excuse the old tree from service ... and, hopefully, the veteran can come down harmlessly on its' own in a wind storm some time.

As an intermediate solution... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Slab Gully (5.3) : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: Note that the double-rope rap lines do not originate from an anchor on the 'standard' descent of Solar Slab Gully (SSG). The 'standard' descent starts at a bolted anchor on the east side of SSG.

Likely, these double ropes instead originate from an anchor on the west side of SSG that is located "behind a boulder" when topping out from "lower tier" routes to the west. If so, at least one party reported some difficulty with rapping that way with a single rope.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Wedge : Shillelagh (5.9+)
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Sounds like the description of the approach we took, Alex.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : Gertch's Folly (5.8)
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 31, 2015

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Comments: Well written deproach, Marta. Good to know that double ropes have some utility.

From experience and if one is up for gambling on a pair of quarter inch bolts followed by a single bolt for the second rap, find the pair of bad boys just over the edge on skiers left (very nice ledge to stand on). A single 60m rope works. ... if only those anchors were upgraded with modern bolts (they were not as of Nov 2013).


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.9-)
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 4, 2015

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Comments: If we remove 2 or 3 bolts, this route might consensus its way up to 5.10a. ;-)


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: The second roof is also crux-y, above and maybe a little left of the climber (Hill's guide, 3rd Ed, pg 85).


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: For us mere mortals ;-), there is an easier starting variation to P2 by going up at the left end of this ledge (Hill's 3rd Ed, pg 85).


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: Regarding approach from the top, see this beta Photo for updates on the fixed-lines at the SE end of The Shield.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: 8 November 2015:

The fixed rap line at the SE end of The Shield was replaced. This is likely most important for re-ascending should something unexpected happen ... such as bailing from a route due to weather or due to a partner unfortunately injured on a climb.

An intermediate rap station has been included (at a tree) in hopes of reducing rope damage due to wind. There are also quick links at the top for rapping on your own rope. As George indicates, one can rap on a single 60m rope almost ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: To do pitch one as shown in the above photo, one starts quite a bit left of the left-facing dihedral of this Photo. Alternately on another day, we followed another pair up a very nice line that stays just zero to 20 feet left of the left-facing dihedral ... I prefer this second way.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Flail Out (5.9)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: Gary, I like the story. It wouldn't take much of a nudge from you for this route to be renamed "Sylvie in Her Tennies." I doubt anyone would object.


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