REI Community


Member Since: Nov 8, 2007
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact bheller

Point Rank: # 880
Total Points: 928

236 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has bheller been climbing?










Contributions


All 1301 | Routes 62 | Areas 9 | Approach Trails | Photos 34 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 410 | Posts 109 | Stars 495 | Ratings 181
Page 1 of 17.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Oregon : Northeast Oregon : Leslie Gulch : Photo
By: bheller When: 4 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Tony Yaniro, Tedd Thompson, Jim Karn...T.M. Herbert?


Location: Oregon : Northeast Oregon : Leslie Gulch
By: bheller When: 4 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: See the link below for some creative history;)

google.com/amp/s/www.climbing....


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Heresy (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Oct 3, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I'm going to leave my above comment as is. When I first watched this video it was on my phone and with the combination of the low quality video and the small frame I didn't notice the climber's body was concealing that he had an armful of slack out. I carefully watched on a larger screen more closely this time and I still think it was both sloppy climbing and a sloppy belay at the critical moment. I'm glad the climber wasn't broken- he did hit the ground. Its definitely not &... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Heresy (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Oct 3, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Nowhere close to hilarious. You must mean "how not to belay for this climb." Shameful. Belay privledges should be revoked.


Location: Oregon : Northeast Oregon : Leslie Gulch : The Einstein : Stool Sample (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Sep 30, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The first sport route to go up at Leslie Gulch. A Tedd Thompson creation- 1990? This was my first 12b redpoint circa 2002.


Location: Oregon : Northeast Oregon : Leslie Gulch : The Einstein : Fiber One (5.12+)
By: bheller When: Sep 30, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This was always rated 12c. (Old school) I think it feels pretty modernly stiff that 12c grade too!


Location:
By: bheller When: Sep 30, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I have fallen on that numerous times, but I never wanted to!! Thanks for the replacement!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress
By: bheller When: Sep 27, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I would rather be a wanna-be if I could not be an are, for a wanna-be is a maybe with a chance to yet make par. I would rather be a has-been than a might-have-been by far; for a might-have-been was never, but a has was once an are!


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Strategic Defense (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Sep 20, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Mark- you may be correct that the first ascensionist didn't place that first bolt in the ideal location. Perhaps he was too busy doing his part inventing what would become sport climbing and simply made a mistake. Or perhaps he envisioned people would climb the route with pre-placed slings or long-draws in-situ? Maybe he only had 6 bolts and a hand drill and made due by spacing things out? Whatever the case, he has offered to re-engineer this route and many people have expressed their prefer... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (7) Marsupial Wall : Dreamland (5.13a)
By: bheller When: Sep 19, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I'm excited to climb them! I'm definitely messing with you too. Don't take it too heavy. I think it's awesome how many gems you're finding and I know the hard work and soul that goes into it! Any route builder is subject to their own f.a. bias... I'm just saying...they can't ALL be 4 star masterpieces can they!? Keep up the good work and creative spirit. Peace Alan:)


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (7) Marsupial Wall : Dreamland (5.13a)
By: bheller When: Sep 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Jeezus Alan...your routes seem to always be instantly 4 star classics! You must have the Golden Eye ;)


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: bheller When: Sep 15, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Boissal-While laughing at your abundant runner options I counted mine, and I have 6! options on my rack:/ 6" minidraw, 8" minidraw, 14" minidraw, 20" minidraw, alpine draw (aka 24" slowdraws), and 48" runners!! No pulleys though. I'll pull out the double ropes before I ever stoop that nerd.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: bheller When: Sep 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Should we add pulleys to the rack list?


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Medussa (5.11b/c)
By: bheller When: Sep 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Most climbers will prefer 2 pieces of supplemental finger sized gear in the middle finger flakes section. Standard runners placed in this section on both the bolts and gear render the above rope drag complaints moot. Supplemental gear is never nessesarry until it is. A fall, slip, or rock-break(!) without the cam/s would be devestating and the climbing here is slickery 5.10.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower Two : Desp-Arête (5.10d PG13)
By: bheller When: Sep 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Strange no one has mentioned the run-out above the 3rd bolt (originally a pin) that rambles 20 feet up a loose corner with a finger crack and tops out on a chossy pillar. This can be adequately protected with 2 x .5 camalots and runners.

Also, you can lower/rap from the anchors at the top of the route to the starting belay stance with a 70m rope, but it's the definition of a rope stretcher. Please discuss the route length with your belayer and knot the end of your rope prior to climbing thi... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: bheller When: Sep 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Yup


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower Two : Social Realism (5.10a)
By: bheller When: Sep 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: For a bit more clarity, Social Realism is indeed the 2nd from left route on the west-north-west face of tower 2 (within the shooting gallery gully). The first bolt is approximately 16 feet up, but a bomber #1 camalot protects first in a horizontal that appears at about 10 feet up route. The route begins at a dark sloping stance just left of a minor buttress type feature in the upper-middle of the wall. 15 feet diagonally up-ramp and left from this sloping belay stance (found around waist high or... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Litmus Test (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Sep 10, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Logan- sometimes routes are graded based on endurance, and other times power, and sometimes both. If a route's crux is a well defined boulder problem with relatively easy climbing otherwise, it receives a difficulty grade based on it's boulder problem and is then converted to a route grade. Here is the basic conversion: V1=11a. V2=11b. V3=11c. V4=12a/b. V5=12c. V6=12d. V7=13a. V8=13b. V9=13c/d. V10=14a. V11=14b. V12=14c. Etc...

These "routes with a boulder problem" are the ... more >>


Location: Utah : Cedar City : Swett Hills : The Wash : Ragnarock : Mossy Ramp (V0)
By: bheller When: Sep 9, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Sounds amazing! A real gem!


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : Lost River Range : Cedar Creek
By: bheller When: Sep 7, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: There's great beta for this zone here:

wolverinepublishing.com/store/...


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Predator (5.12d)
By: bheller When: Aug 31, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Don't sweat it...I think Merto could be clueless when it comes to the nuances of the 5.12 grade. He probably climbs 5.14 or at least double digit boulders- if so, not the person for judging 5.12.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Triangle Wall : Cocoa Puffs (WI3)
By: bheller When: Aug 31, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: 70 meter rope is ideal for pitching out and rapelling


Location: Utah : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Iron Hayden Wall : Run To The Hills (5.11b)
By: bheller When: Aug 6, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Props to the FA team! A fine route indeed. I loved the naturally protected section on pitch 3- it holds the most memorable climbing on the entire Iron Hayden Wall! The small nut placements were so bomber! (Cams were useful too) If I may be permitted one bit of constructive criticism: the final two bolts and especially the last bolt to the left while exiting the "chimney of awkwardness" on pitch 3 seemed unessasarry and diminished the traditional value in that section for my partner and... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Native American Crag
By: bheller When: Aug 2, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I think I also remember seeing a somewhat steep and undone finger crack (60 ft tall?) on the backside of the formation-perhaps 10a? It's just to the left of the "Wigwam"- the obvious cave like feature that boasts a handful of forgotten boulder problems. Back in the day, the anonymous hard men of BCC used to crank out endless laps on the Wigwams steep center kingline with good in-cut jugs- "Counting Coup"-V3. At one time there was a old mattress stash but they are (thankfu... more >>


Location: California : High Desert : New Jack City : Photo
By: bheller When: Jun 21, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: They're both men Zoso...I know...dresses...throws em off everytime


Page 1 of 17.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About