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Member Since: Jul 18, 2014
Last Visit: Feb 14, 2018
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Point Rank: # 1,950
Total Points: 425

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Benj84 been climbing?










Contributions


All 343 | Routes 19 | Areas 9 | Approach Trails | Photos 20 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 89 | Stars 169 | Ratings 16

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Farside > (6) Main Cliff > The Eternal Buffalo (5.12-)
By: Benj84 When: Aug 18, 2017

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Comments: This route was both the brain-child of, and result of a lot of work from Joseph Healy


Location: Oregon > Mt. Hood > Klinger Spring > (3) The Aviary > Kestrel (no need to speed) (5.10)
By: Benj84 When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: I gave this a 10+ on the basis of a comparison to Felschlupher, I find it to be pretty similar in difficulty. Could have just as easily downgraded Felsch to 10.


Location: Oregon > Mt. Hood > Klinger Spring > (3) The Aviary > You, Me, and Everyone We Kn... (5.11-)
By: Benj84 When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: You only get the cookie for going straight through the slab if you're under 6 feet tall


Location: Oregon > Mt. Hood > Klinger Spring > (2) Land of Shadows > Signs Preceding the End of ... (5.10)
By: Benj84 When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: this would be 4 star if not for all the loose rock between the roof section and the headwall, tread lightly and maybe belay from below the roof incase of rock fall.
The roofs at the start are totally outrageous, the chossy nightmare above is a price worth paying !


Location: Oregon > Mt. Hood > Klinger Spring > (2) Land of Shadows > Cerberus (5.9)
By: Benj84 When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: Took the right hand sport start, didn't feel any harder than then finish.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Lost Horse Area > Rock Garden Valley > Rock Garden Valley - Left S... > Lewd and Lascivious Conduct (5.10c R)
By: Benj84 When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: If you stick with going straight up the middle this is a really thin fun little face climb.
I had a serious look for pro while top-roping and my personal conclusion is that if you are to climb it any way other than top rope than free solo is probably the safest way to go, the little widgets you might be able to wiggle in here would be more trouble than they are worth.
Great TR if you've already got the rope in!


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Second Pullout > The Black Corridor > ... > Sandstone Enema (5.11a/b)
By: Benj84 When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: Hard to give this a sport climbing grade, lets say burly V3 boulder problem with a mellow and enjoyable 5.9 sport route ontop of it?


Location: Oregon > Portland & The Gorge > Broughton Bluff > (1) North Face > Gandalf's Grip (5.9+) > Photo
By: Benj84 When: Mar 16, 2017

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Comments: oboy, those hangers look pretty manky. Is that still whats up there?


Location: Wyoming > Grand Teton National Park > Grand Teton > North Face Highlight Tour (5.8) > Photo
By: Benj84 When: Mar 10, 2017

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Comments: This looks to me like really dubious rope management, perhaps its a manip I'm unfamiliar with, Am I missing something here?


Location: Washington > Central Region > Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) > Sunshine Wall > King Pins > Narlux (5.10c)
By: Benj84 When: Mar 8, 2017

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Comments: one of the better sport lines at the crag, pretty heady by vantage standards, but any self respecting smith climber would call it over-bolted.(thats only partially hyperbole)


Location: Washington > Central Region > Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) > Sunshine Wall > King Pins > Pony Keg (5.9)
By: Benj84 When: Mar 8, 2017

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Comments: not sure how you could complain about the gear on this route, you can get in a bomber piece every 6 inches from the ground to the chains.


Location: Europe > France > Northern Alps > Grenoble > Vercors > Presles
By: Benj84 When: Mar 3, 2017

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Comments: Can't over emphasize just how awesome this site is, only done 4 routes there so ~40 pitches but they where all golden, mostly bolted with a few TA (trad) lines and a number of TATA "terrain d'aventure tres ascepticise", a concept that I've only really seen employed in Presles, and basically boils down to trad lines with 1/2 protection bolts per pitch regardless of the availability of pro.......................................
The bolted / trad lines are where its at and the... more >>


Location: Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (h) The Peanut > Peanut Brittle (5.8 PG13)
By: Benj84 When: Feb 9, 2017

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Comments: there are a few spots on this climb where the only holds are hollow sounding flakes which flex under thumb tension, with a lot of cleaning up this would be a mediocre climb


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Pullout > The J Wall > Killer Joe (5.10+)
By: Benj84 When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: Just commenting to address the bombs, I climbed this about 3 weeks ago and it is a bit balancy but it is gym bolted on what feels like solid rock, definitely didn't sketch me out.
Felt soft to be 10+, in the guidebook it was 10c and that seemed reasonable to me.


Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Farside > (5) Fir Tree Ledge > Tunnel Vision (5.11b)
By: Benj84 When: Jun 25, 2016

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Comments: Think to tape your left middle/ring finger over the proximal phalanges, I hung on that sharp side pull in the crux a bit more than is advisable in my first go and my ring finger was numb for several days.


Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Farside > (6) Main Cliff > Lion of Judah (aka Sugar an... (5.10a) > Photo
By: Benj84 When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: I put in a yellow metolius under the roof, seemed a bit jankity but it might hold


Location: Europe > France > Southern Alps > Ceuse > Secteur Demi Lune
By: Benj84 When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: Crank up your gainsbourg and enjoy this nice little sector


Location: Europe > Italy > Finale Ligure > Monte Cucco > Anfiteatro > L'Ottico (5.10a)
By: Benj84 When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: its a 6a in the guidebook, and a total sandbag at that grade, Id have agreed with a solid 6b


Location: Europe > Italy > Finale Ligure > Monte Cucco > Anfiteatro > Il Pittore (5.10a)
By: Benj84 When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: was rated 5c in our guidebook, felt like a stout 6a, definitely easier than its neighbor to the right "l'ottico", which was 6a in our guidebook, and felt like a solid 6b


Location: Europe > Spain > Catalonia > Margalef > Can Pesafigues > l'estibador (5.11b)
By: Benj84 When: May 2, 2015

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Comments: wierd tension moves over a slight overhang in the first 1/2 bolts, looks easy from the ground but huge looking pockets turn out to be crap slopey dents, a nice


Location: Europe > Spain > Catalonia > Siurana > Valley Crags > ... > penitenciagite (5.10d)
By: Benj84 When: Mar 20, 2015

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Comments: awesome route, don't hesitate to warm up on it, small cheminey followed by 2 bolts of traverse, a mantel off of a bucket onto crap holds with good feet, and then a long sequence of moves on good holds.


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