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Member Since: Apr 16, 2007
Last Visit: Sep 15, 2017
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Total Points: 580

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has BenCooper been climbing?


All 756 | Routes 11 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 94 | Page Improvements | Comments 30 | Posts 140 | Stars 462 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Town Crier (5.12d)
By: BenCooper When: Sep 30, 2010

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Comments: A fantastic route. We aid climbed it, and the description above is pretty spot-on. For the aid rack, micro-stoppers and offsets were key. We only used a skyhook once, but there was one other place that I remember one could use a hook, so it may be a good idea to bring a couple. All belays have good bolts and chains or rings. When aiding, this route goes at 5.9 C2. Also, note that on pitch 4 (pitch after the triple overhangs),there is a mandatory free move or two, around 5.8, just below the... more >>

Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Liberty Crack (5.11- C2)
By: BenCooper When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: This is a truly classic line up a strikingly steep face, one of the longest sheer granite cliffs in the state. We climbed it in two days, employing the usual fixing of ropes to the top of P3. Fast parties should be able to get up this thing in a long day, and knowing the route now, this is how I would climb it.

There is a ton of fixed gear on this route, including several pins spread out over the free pitches. The aid was straightforward. The hook move is not necessary, but is awesome non... more >>

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Potash Bong Hit (5.9+)
By: BenCooper When: Aug 13, 2010

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Comments: Greg D -
Agreed. Small hands would certainly up the difficulty level, but in terms of desert hand cracks, this is a 9. Also, I found this route significantly easier the cruxes of Flakes and Bad Moki.

Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Boston Basin : Forbidden Peak : West Ridge (5.6 Mod. Snow)
By: BenCooper When: Aug 10, 2010

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Comments: If descending the rappel route in the snow couloir, prepare to leave a good bit of webbing and pack out a good bit of tat. Also, we found having a single 60m rope very convenient. A 50 would have left us short on one or two raps, resulting in downclimbing of the couloir (bad idea in soft snow).

Couloir was climbable in early Aug. 2010, but was quite thin and had two significant moats (see photos).

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Canadian North Cascades : Western Chilliwack Range : ... : Photo
By: BenCooper When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: I reckon Bear's a bit further east (you're referring to the foreground peak, right?).

Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Sesame Street (5.9+)
By: BenCooper When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: This is a great, but very short, route. As the info says, approach via Hanging Gardens 1st pitch, continuing into the 2nd pitch of H.G. right and up. A 2-piton anchor (no slings, old pins) will be visible as you climb up. From here, Sesame Street is clearly visible. I'd recommend pitching it out into 2 pitches, as opposed to 1 long pitch (doable, but bring plenty of runners). Wish it were longer.

Gear: In addition to cams 1-3", a few small to medium stoppers were pretty nice to have on th... more >>

Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Mr. Squiggles (5.10b/c)
By: BenCooper When: Nov 28, 2009

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Comments: Climbed this after JR Token and Goldrush, and I must say, it was my favorite. What a stellar climb. The ring locks at the beginning made for one of the more memorable starts of anything I've climbed.

Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Sheer Stress (5.10a)
By: BenCooper When: Nov 22, 2009

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Comments: Agreed. A fine climb with some very thin moves through the crux. I placed one #0 TCU, and that seemed sufficient through the crux. Another one wouldn't hurt though. I'd recommend being solid at the grade on this one.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Static Cling (5.11-)
By: BenCooper When: May 28, 2009

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Comments: For me, the key gear were a #0 and #00 TCU (purple + grey). These can protect the crux moves below and through the small roof.

Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : The Sickle (5.8)
By: BenCooper When: May 18, 2009

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Comments: The upper portion of Sickle is awesome. Great jams deep in the sickle-crack, great gear, and solid rock. The bottom portion presents many options, and I'm not sure whether these are different routes or simply alternate starts. I did a start to the right of what is shown as the red-dashed line in the photo. Nice finger locks and jugs, probably around 5.8.

Get on it! It's a great route.

Location: Washington : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee)
By: BenCooper When: May 12, 2009

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Comments: Camping Update:
Camping is only allowed on the south side of the feathers (the area with the bulletin board and the trailhead for the hike into Echo Basin).

There are currently NO TOILETS. The old sani-cans were getting hammered by concert-goers. The company that cleaned them kept finding syringes, rocks, etc. in the toilets, and decided it wasn't worth it. Can't blame 'em. Anyway, the Frenchmen's Coulee Climbing Coalition is currently raising money for a permanent toilet structure that is ... more >>

Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Gandalf's Grip (5.9+)
By: BenCooper When: May 10, 2009

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Comments: What a great 1st pitch! Some fun, weird, more-solid-than-you-think rock leads to a very nice finger crack. I'd call this section 5.9-ish. The face moves above and to the left of the crack seemed a little harder than 5.9. But then again, 5.9+ is a notorious rating just about anywhere.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Monster Tower : North Ridge (5.11)
By: BenCooper When: Mar 26, 2009

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Comments: We climbed this route on 3/25/09. Below are some observations that may be of some use

-This route is burlier, harder, and generally more thought-provoking than Standing Rock or Primrose Dihedrals. Not necessarily better though...
-All anchors are questionable. Each consists of 2 star-drives, and 1 decent, newer bolt. These newer bolts, however, are not necessarily bomber. The very top anchor's "newer" bolt is spinning...uggh. This is a prime recipient for the good works of the ASCA. I wo... more >>

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Left Hand of Darkness : Left Hand of Darkness - E. ... : Uncle Fester (5.10d)
By: BenCooper When: Dec 11, 2008

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Comments: I didn't know what this was when I saw it, just that it looked beautiful. Perfect splitter from tiny tips to beautiful hands. With my sausage links, it was very hard off the deck. Well worth doing if you're in the area.

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Left Hand of Darkness : Left Hand of Darkness - E. ... : Jane Pauley (5.8)
By: BenCooper When: Dec 11, 2008

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Comments: This route makes a good last climb for the day, as it's 30 seconds from the car, right off the paved park road, and a relatively safe and easy lead. Do the real finish on the upper crack, it's the best part. Descent with a walk off to the right (toward the dirt road and parking area).

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Left Hand of Darkness : Left Hand of Darkness - E. ... : Granny Goose (5.7)
By: BenCooper When: Dec 11, 2008

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Comments: Honestly, I loved this route. Very fun moves, and juggy flake climbing. I'd say 5.7 as well.

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : No Calculators Allowed (5.10a)
By: BenCooper When: Dec 11, 2008

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Comments: Count on your Fingers, at 5.9, is a more sustained climb in my opinion, while this is fairly soft for J-Tree .10a (much easier than say, Bird of Fire). Instead of using the bolt as a directional at the top, just plug a bomber cam below the lip. Less rope drag, and no real danger for the second at that point. Great route, get on it.

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Eas... : Clean and Jerk (5.10c)
By: BenCooper When: Dec 11, 2008

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Comments: Very nice line, with fun, committing moves right off the deck. I found that one can get a #0 TCU in to protect the first big move. For me, this was necessary, as I whipped on it (more evidence that Metolius makes bomber gear). After that, the #1 camalot fits perfectly in a horizontal. If you're not used to overhung, gymastic starts, and/or are short, the beginning moves can feel quite hard (as they did for me). Overall, the 5.10+ rating is accurate.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: BenCooper When: Nov 16, 2008

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Comments: Climbed it in 5 pitches by linking P2 & P3, P5 & P6, and then went one pitch to the top from the top of the Ear. Make sure you bring some 48" runners for linking 2 & 3. P1 was the 5.8 traverse.

Rack: Triple set of cams, from blue TCU (nothing smaller is needed) to #3 camalot. We brought a #4 camalot, but never placed it; in other words, don't bring any cams larger than a #3 (unless you do the original first pitch). Four #3's would be nice on P4, but not ne... more >>

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: BenCooper When: Nov 7, 2008

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Comments: Rack: 2 sets of camalots from .5 to 3. No big cams needed. 1 set of TCU's (00-4). 1 set stoppers, including RP's.

Notes: The aid on pitch 3 is fairly straightforward, with one good bolt, a decent drilled angle, and some scary old hardware (nails). If free climbing, I would fall only on the bolt, as the rest of the pro above it is, well, crap. The elephant ear flake is still there, but it was creaking, and I barely weighted it. I felt that with a nut tool I could have pryed it off.

Anch... more >>

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The 100-yard Wall : The Doil (5.8)
By: BenCooper When: Nov 1, 2008

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Comments: When I climbed the route (Oct. 2008), the chockstone anchor was still there, but the main anchor were two drilled angles, which appeared and felt much more solid than the old anchor.

Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a1. The Uberfall - left : Retribution (5.10b)
By: BenCooper When: Oct 12, 2008

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Comments: I found that my key piece of pro at the roof ate up the key undercling; it was a choice between a solid piece or good hold. Great route.

Location: Washington : Olympics & Pacific Coast : Lake Cushman Area
By: BenCooper When: Feb 13, 2008

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Comments: There are several routes here, but none are that good. If you live near here, it's worth a visit, but don't go too far out of your way. Also, beware the poison oak. It grows all over the hillsides in the lowland Olympics.

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Overseer (5.9)
By: BenCooper When: Dec 22, 2007

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Comments: Try climbing the beginning half of dung-fu and linking it with the second half of overseer. the moves out of the chimney and onto the face below the overseer lip are pretty fun. this method of climbing these routes links the best of both.

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Dogleg (5.8+)
By: BenCooper When: Dec 22, 2007

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Comments: I'd agree with most of the above statements. The route seemed to want to spit me out constantly. I'd suggest a solid 5.8+ rating, and if 5.8 is your limit, start on double cross and then climb this one.

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