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Member Since: Jan 25, 2008
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Ben Townsend

Ben Townsend
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Total Points: 695
Last Year: 384
Last 30 Days: 13
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ben Townsend been climbing?










Contributions


All 752 | Routes 51 | Areas 4 | Photos | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 122 | Posts 2 | Stars 571 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : No Teaching! (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Dec 2, 2016

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Comments: Very easy for the grade. A blue (# 0.3) Camalot or equivalent protects the move to the first bolt, if you want.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : Member Profile (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Dec 2, 2016

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Comments: A purple C3 in the overlap protects the direct start adequately.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Blister in the Sun : High Scalin (5.7 PG13)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 26, 2016

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Comments: I'd suggest a single rack to 4" with doubles in the 1-3" sizes, plus all the small cams you can carry. A heady, intricate route despite the modest grade, with sometimes challenging gear. The crux is right off the deck, but the climbing will likely keep your full attention to the top.

The first belay is at a small, exposed stance; fortunately, the gear's good there. To descend, we walked up and east until we reached ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Observatory : Bewitched (5.5 PG13)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 25, 2016

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Comments: If you do the second pitch to the top of the formation, the downclimb is seriously awkward. Alternatively, walk due north past some small water pockets to a ledge at the lip, where you'll find two black-painted bolts permitting a one-rope rappel into the gully. Bring a cordelette and rings (or better, quick-links, steel rings, and a wrench), as the bolts currently lack a rappel setup.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Southern Outcrops : Disappearing Buttress : No Country for Young Men (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 24, 2016

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Comments: This is a very esthetic line with fun climbing, marred only by a few sections of friable rock. I'm not sure there are any actual 5.8 moves, but the climbing on the first pitch is sustained and a bit heads-up -- well protected, but watch for fragile flakes.

There are rappel stations, though I'd expect a high probability of rope hangups. If you want to have the option of rapping (with two ropes), take along two or three cordelettes or the equivalent to repl... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Ultraman (5.8+ R)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Sustained and insecure. I could believe 5.9 or even 5.9+.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Iron Man Wall : Necco Waif (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: A #3 Camalot or equivalent would be nice for the upper crack. I didn't have one, but was able to finagle in a thin cam in a horizontal -- not totally reassuring given the soft rock.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Iron Man Wall : Easiest Path (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: Enjoyable climbing. The start is a bit reachy; I placed a stopper in the initial crack to protect the move to the first bolt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Ultramagnetic MCs (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: Great climbing, bring lots of wires including micros. The top bolts don't have chains or rings, but the anchor of Godzilla is just a step to the right. 70m rope works for a rappel if you angle east (climber's right).


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Mothra (5.7+)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: Nice climb, pretty easy after the initilal boulder problem move. I suggest skipping the bolt next to the upper corner, as it adds a lot of drag and there's reasonable gear available.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Saddle Up (5.9)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Great route! We took the rib on the first pitch; another time, I'd likely try the chimney, just to manage rope drag. Second pitch is quite continuous, a bit of 5.9 but mostly just lots and lots of fun, thoughtful climbing -- about 50 meters the way we did it. Third pitch is just plain fun. No sun on the route at all in mid-November. Handren suggests an optional #6 for the first pitch; we took it but never really found a use for it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Flight Path Area : Radio Free Kansas (5.7+)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 12, 2016

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Comments: If using the Handren guide for this route, pay attention to the written description, which is correct. The line marked on the photo is well to the right of the actual route, and if you do climb that line, you will encounter no redeeming qualities.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Oak Creek Canyon : Coltrane (5.9 R)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: The good: all bolts have been upgraded to modern standards, including a bolted anchor at the first belay. First and second pitch anchors have ring bolts, the others are regular hangers. A couple of old bolts are still in place alongside the new bolts, on pitch 4. The setting and views are great.

The bad: weird, wandering line with more traversing than you'd guess from the guidebook. Good candidate for double ropes, especially on the fourth pitch -- in fact, I'@SEMIC... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : East Face : Black and White Crack (5.3)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: An old rigid-stem Friend is currently fixed a short way up the first pitch. It's wildly over-cammed, and looks like it's been there a while.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : East Face
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: As noted in the Handren guide, rappelling The Lovely Bones makes for a pretty pleasant descent for routes in the vicinity of Diet Delight. Three raps with a single 70m rope; watch the rope ends! The top anchor is a bit hard to find, but we built a cairn on the ledge above that should make it a bit easier.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : East Face : Action by Knight (5.10)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: The right variation is fun. More like 5.7 than 5.8, at least the way we did it. We followed the diagonal crack out right (as shown in the Handren guide) -- going straight up the hand crack and chimney looked good as well.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Cover My Buttress (5.5)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 4, 2016

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Comments: First bolts have one screwlink each.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Upper Sunnyside Crag : Good-Time Charlie (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 2, 2016

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Comments: The crux is definitely easier for tall people. More like 5.7 for me at 6'4", but quite tough for my 5'6" wife.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Upper Sunnyside Crag
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 2, 2016

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Comments: In early November, this crag is in the sun only in the afternoon. Full sun begins around 2:00.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Sunset Slab Direct (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Elegant route, or variation. Mellow (5.4-5.5?) and well-enough-protected climbing on the "direct" pitches; the real challenge is finding belay stances that don't kill your feet.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag : The Sun Never Sets (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Oct 25, 2016

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Comments: Can be led quite safely on trad gear.


Location: NH : WM: Pinkham / Presidentials : Huntington Ravine : Cloud Walkers (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Oct 19, 2016

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Comments: My wife and I climbed this route a couple weeks before the FA noted above, but I would be really surprised if it hadn't been done earlier.


Location: NH : WM: Pinkham / Presidentials : Huntington Ravine : Henderson Ridge (5.4)
By: Ben Townsend When: Oct 19, 2016

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Comments: Easy walk-off right from the top of the technical climbing, down through brush to the base.


Location: NH : Great North Woods Region : Mount Forist : 3. Madigan Area : DLM Memorial Route (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Oct 8, 2016

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Comments: Light rack to #0.75 Camalot. Don't bother with a lot of stoppers; I think we placed one small wire.

On the Sea of Bowls variation to p. 5, I strongly recommend cutting left and belaying at the DLM anchor instead of persisting up the gravel-covered, protectionless slab to the headwall anchor. Also, some long slings are nice on this pitch, as there's some decent trad gear that's not directly in line with the bolts.

Watch... more >>


Location: NH : Great North Woods Region : Mount Forist : 2. South End : All Dogs Go to Heaven (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Sep 29, 2016

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Comments: This might be my favorite of the routes on the South End. Seemed easy for the grade, maybe even easier than Subtle Like Bob Ross. I took small cams and was happy I did, especially near the top.


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