REI Community


Member Since: Jan 25, 2008
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Ben Townsend

Ben Townsend
is a member of
Point Rank: # 1,241
Total Points: 683

1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Ben Townsend been climbing?










Contributions


All 1137 | Routes 62 | Areas 4 | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 136 | Posts 2 | Stars 931 | Ratings 1
Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Maine > Acadia National Park > Canada Cliff > Russian Revolution (5.9)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 26, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: FA by Tom Silocka. First route on the cliff.


Location: Maine > Acadia National Park > Canada Cliff > Stonecutter's Bible (5.7 R)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 26, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I did the FA in the early 1980s with Dan Koch. Second route on the cliff (after Russian Revolution). The cracks were completely choked with dirt and ferns, which I cleaned out on the lead.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Oak Creek Canyon > Solar Slab - Upper Tier > Sunspot Ridge (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 7, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Great scenic setting, OK climbing, lots of mediocre rock. The very top of the first 5.8 pitch has a lot of dirt and loose rock in the chimney just under the belay; dislodging it on your belayer could be very, very bad. On the bulge at the start of the second pitch, a #4 Camalot was pretty loose and a #5 might have been more reassuring, though it would be hard to justify dragging it up the rest of the route.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Pine Creek Canyon > Magic Mountain > Honeycomb Chimney (5.9)
By: Ben Townsend When: Oct 31, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: P. 1: In addition to the overall sandiness, there’s a square-cut varnish block on the left wall at the first bulge, which seems like a great hold but rings like a gong when knocked.

P. 5: After exiting the short tunnel at the top, consider a directional to keep the rope from getting pinched in the slot at the top of the tunnel.

P. 7: More cerebral than physical; think in three dimensions.

Descent via Magic Triangle single-rope raps: After p. 7, work west and down following cairns to the b... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Creek Canyon > Strawberry Hill Buttress
By: Ben Townsend When: Oct 24, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The rope anchor from the dead tree on the first rap station seems to be in decent shape, though a bit sun-bleached, and the cord anchor from the big blocks looks fine. The backup stoppers inspired no confidence. The other rap stations were in reasonable shape, though they could both benefit from some cleanup and selective cord/webbing replacement.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Creek Canyon > Strawberry Hill Buttress > Rolling Thunder (5.9)
By: Ben Townsend When: Oct 24, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is a very nice route that deserves more traffic. It still has some friable rock in spots, but overall the rock quality is very good, and the protection is excellent. We did the pitches a bit differently than described above, mostly to manage rope drag and to keep each other in view through the cruxes; a determined party could undoubtedly do the entire route in three long pitches.

P. 1: Up the chimney (less awkward if you can stay outside it) to the first good stance, at about 50’. It loo... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Southern Outcrops
By: Ben Townsend When: Oct 21, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The road to Illusion Crags/Disappearing Buttress and Windy Peak is pretty eroded as of late October 2017. People seem to be getting in and out OK with low-clearance vehicles, but it definitely is more challenging than usual.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Southern Outcrops > Illusion Crags > Deez Guys (5.8+)
By: Ben Townsend When: Oct 21, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Pay attention to the “+” in the grade. Some pushy climbing with less-than-ideal protection.


Location: Maine > Camden Hills > 01. Maiden Cliff & Frostbit... > Frostbite Falls- Rock & Ice
By: Ben Townsend When: Oct 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The closest legal parking is the boat launch at Barrett's Cove, so expect to walk almost a mile on a busy road with little or no shoulder. One strategy is to drop people and gear at the trailhead, then have the designated driver (i.e., loser of the coin toss) park and hoof it back.

Leave the road at the snowplow turnaround on the north side of Route 52, right at the Camden-Lincolnville town line, which is obvious and marked by concrete traffic barriers. A cairned trail heads diagonally left u... more >>


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Puppy Dome > Climbing on Face-book (5.4 PG13)
By: Ben Townsend When: Sep 19, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Assigning this climb a new name and "FA" is a bit presumptuous. It was already well-established when I did it as my first-ever rock climb in 1975. Yosemite Mountaineering School used the upper tier of Puppy Dome as an intro teaching area at the time.


Location: Maine > a. Western Mountains > Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Central Wall > The Tenth Degree (5.10c/d)
By: Ben Townsend When: Sep 15, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is a more direct version of Greg Bourassa's route "Ten Degree" (an old place name from the narrow gauge railroad that once ran below the cliff). At the top of the first pitch, Greg's route traversed straight left (very airy A0 off two bolts) to a small ledge and belay, then climbed a nice 5.8 corner left of the big main corner to rejoin this route. Wave Length was the original first pitch.


Location: Maine > a. Western Mountains > Tumbledown Mountain > A.M.C. Route Variation (5.6) > Photo
By: Ben Townsend When: Aug 8, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I'd say the yellow line is very approximate. I usually do a more direct version of the blue line that's roughly 5.8-5.9.


Location: Maine > a. Western Mountains > C Bluff > C Monster (5.9) > Photo
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 20, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The late Greg Bourassa and friends did a mixed route here in the late 1980s, called Coup de Tete. A long mixed/turf pitch up the steep gully on the left, an airy rock traverse right (probably 5.7), and two pitches of 3+/4 ice to the top.


Location: New York > Adirondacks > * Adirondack Ice & Mixed > E: Interior High Peaks > Avalanche Lake/Pass > Adirondike (WI3+)
By: Ben Townsend When: Mar 1, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: It is well over 70m from the base of the ice to the trees. In early February 2017, there was a big icicle spilling off the right roof just at 60m, and we rapped off it with no issues (other than the usual palpitations about how well it was bonded at the base).


Location: New Hampshire > * Ice and Mixed Climbing > Mt. Willard (Ice) > East Face - Upper > Rear Window (WI4)
By: Ben Townsend When: Jan 30, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The WI4 rating apparently comes from a steep, optional final pitch above the corner. If done as described here, without the final pitch, the route is more like 3+.


Location: New Hampshire > * Ice and Mixed Climbing > Mt. Willard (Ice) > South Face - Lower > Gully 2-1/2 (WI3)
By: Ben Townsend When: Dec 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch belay has a fixed knifeblade; you can back it with a pink Tricam, a good #1 Camalot, and possibly some thin cams (mine were resting helpfully in the pack). No fixed rap at the top, but the Great Madness rap tree is only about 100' right (and a bit down).


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Second Pullout > Meetup Wall > No Teaching! (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Dec 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Very easy for the grade. A blue (# 0.3) Camalot or equivalent protects the move to the first bolt, if you want.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Second Pullout > Meetup Wall > Member Profile (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Dec 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A purple C3 in the overlap protects the direct start adequately.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Sandstone Quarry > Blister in the Sun > High Scalin (5.7 PG13)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I'd suggest a single rack to 4" with doubles in the 1-3" sizes, plus all the small cams you can carry. A heady, intricate route despite the modest grade, with sometimes challenging gear. The crux is right off the deck, but the climbing will likely keep your full attention to the top.

The first belay is at a small, exposed stance; fortunately, the gear's good there. To descend, we walked up and east until we reached a slot-gully that led easily down left (north). A scrambling r... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Second Pullout > The Observatory > Bewitched (5.5 PG13)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: If you do the second pitch to the top of the formation, the downclimb is seriously awkward. Alternatively, walk due north past some small water pockets to a ledge at the lip, where you'll find two black-painted bolts permitting a one-rope rappel into the gully. Bring a cordelette and rings (or better, quick-links, steel rings, and a wrench), as the bolts currently lack a rappel setup.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Southern Outcrops > Disappearing Buttress > No Country for Young Men (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a very esthetic line with fun climbing, marred only by a few sections of friable rock. I'm not sure there are any actual 5.8 moves, but the climbing on the first pitch is sustained and a bit heads-up -- well protected, but watch for fragile flakes.

There are rappel stations, though I'd expect a high probability of rope hangups. If you want to have the option of rapping (with two ropes), take along two or three cordelettes or the equivalent to replace ancient or missing webbing. ... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Pullout > Ultraman Wall > Ultraman (5.8+ R)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Sustained and insecure. I could believe 5.9 or even 5.9+.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Pullout > Iron Man Wall > Necco Waif (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A #3 Camalot or equivalent would be nice for the upper crack. I didn't have one, but was able to finagle in a thin cam in a horizontal -- not totally reassuring given the soft rock.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Pullout > Iron Man Wall > Easiest Path (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Enjoyable climbing. The start is a bit reachy; I placed a stopper in the initial crack to protect the move to the first bolt.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Pullout > Ultraman Wall > Ultramagnetic MCs (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Great climbing, bring lots of wires including micros. The top bolts don't have chains or rings, but the anchor of Godzilla is just a step to the right. 70m rope works for a rappel if you angle east (climber's right).


Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · Contact · About